Above 1200 Sq/FT Thomas' garage projects (Canada)

[TomcoPDR]

A bit bummed because you just bury it all and put concrete over all of it except the slot drain. Not much to show for all those $'s.

1968 Cinderblock warehouse.

wasfast You went ahead of me a little for able to catch up... ok, midnight just got back from the shop, but should be able to do another write up session to "start" covering this.


Last post, it was only concrete REMOVAL, and digging dirt OUT.

Now, the plumber can put in his new ABS pipes. So, haven't even got to bury it all back and concrete it... and for our city, the inspector needs to SEE (and test slope) before you can bury/concrete it all back anyways.

This corner area is for new enlarge lower bathroom at this point, drain for washer/dryer in the mechanical room, drain for kitchen/bar, and floor drains in mechanical and bathroom.

This 20-23' (roughly), is from the catch basin INTO sewer

The 2 compartment catch basin sump arrives.

This I was bummed out... the equipment from this build somehow shrunk in size than I remembered of the 2009 when I was a kid.

The concrete cutter was smaller, the catch basin seem to be smaller by a bit, and the delivery truck of the catch basin is definitely not as impressive.

Even though these precast catch basins will have "knock outs" for piping, but of course you're not always going to have things perfectly in line. But it's pretty simple for the concrete guys to core a 5" hole for the plumbers.

Ok, now this part is starting to catch up to wasfast… This ABS pipe now will plumb to the trench drains by garage door. The water caught in trench drain, will go into first dirt compartment, then water will flow up in higher hole inside the basin into the second compartment, dirt sinks down again, then exit into the sewer tied into my unit.

In the modern era, you'll see these poly or some pre made plastic 4" width trench drains (i.e. like the garage condo The Vaults). But the concrete crew was used to custom framing these trench forms, I trusted them. This made it easier for the plumbers. Because I have 2 garage doors, ideally, it wouldn't make sense to purchase 20' of these poly premade (they'll take weeks to order from places like Watts or Zurn water/plumbing company)… but with concrete guys that knows what they're doing, they'll just build their own tub.

At this stage (the trench drain form is irrelevant to the city)… so the sewer of my unit, to the new bathroom and washer, and into the catch basin, you can NOT bury/concrete this till the city passes. And you can put some pea gravel bedding on the bottom of the ABS pipe, but you must expose the top of the pipe in case the inspector wants to put a level to test your pipe's slope.

 

[TomcoPDR]

I'll catch up more on the trench drain custom concrete form on the next post... For now, here's a "micro project" (i.e. something I can quickly whip up, up to 1 hour's time)

Just re-using the scrap plywood from the trench drain form, some free wheels I had laying around from an office desk removal. Made a trolley for the 5 gallon pales. Yes, I know you can probably buy something like this for $20 but I'm also trying to use up items I already have laying around

 

[drivesitfar]

Tom: i'm guessing you are planning on tiling the garage floor after you finish up this plumbing?

did you do a cost breakdown on removing and replacing the entire floor if that was even possible instead of doing all this cutting and work with the old floor in place?

I personally love all the attention to NEATNESS or ORGANIZATION that you and your friends/helpers are doing.

also waste not want not is sort of the way I roll too even if you donate all the old screws and bits and pieces that can still be used to someone that can't afford any.

keep up the great works and loving all the pictures and posts.

 

[Dakota00]

I'm loving this thread! Keep up the great work Tom.

 

[TomcoPDR]

Tom: i'm guessing you are planning on tiling the garage floor after you finish up this plumbing?

did you do a cost breakdown on removing and replacing the entire floor if that was even possible instead of doing all this cutting and work with the old floor in place?

I personally love all the attention to NEATNESS or ORGANIZATION that you and your friends/helpers are doing.

also waste not want not is sort of the way I roll too even if you donate all the old screws and bits and pieces that can still be used to someone that can't afford any.

keep up the great works and loving all the pictures and posts.

I'm loving this thread! Keep up the great work Tom.

Thanks guys. Well, in reference to getting a completely new 40'x50' pad, didn't really looking into it. Because it was either (tiling onto old floor) OR new pad (and leaving new pad), there's no way I'm doing both.

So even if it was the same cost, I'd still love to go porcelain tile for the shock factor; rather than just a new pour. I just can't go back (to regular concrete floors now), and I guess I'm trying to promote team porcelain tile on here over epoxy lol.

Aside from that, (in my own words); I think I'm a linear forward moving person. Meaning, so during the time I was doing tiling at The Vaults garage condo (which is at far North end of our city); everytime I was going home (South bound to downtown home; which is also 8 mins away from the 1968 warehouse at night without traffic); I've been slowly bringing my junk over. (all the racks, and tubberware)

So to be ripping a new pad and needing to "move all that stuff back to the Vaults till new concrete is poured"... that type of moving forward just sounds weird to how my mind functions.


And don't forget, the original "intentions" was to only give this WORKSHOP a little sprucing up, and a hybrid of business working, and a bit of garage condo personal fun shop play. The catch basin with trench, at one point was only a 25% possibility, then it was 50/50, then it was yolo/yodo 80%.


A few more posts, and I'll be caught up to how it is currently.


1968 Cinderblock warehouse:

(last post, trench drain custom forming with plywood by PROS; and sewer pipes connected)

- So simultaneously it's the plumber's duty to call for a city plumbing inspector (before you can backfill and concrete the top)

- As well as the concrete guys building the plywood box for trench drain (which doesn't effect plumbing approval)

- But once the city gives the green light; then it's full go go go for concrete crew to wrap this up (back fill, order concrete truck, concrete the trench drain)


City came, took all of 3-5 minutes. Then says "yup, you're good to go sir"

Re-bar every 18" stagger everywhere that's cut

Concrete truck arrives.. THIS, I'm impress. A triple tandem (yes, I've seen even bigger versions at skyscapper builds; but this is pretty heavy duty for me to be apart of being a DIY organize project)

Didn't get any photos of the pouring process, this time, I legit worked, here's how the concrete pouring went:

- The concrete supply company, the driver, he's controlling the flow of concrete under the directions from my concrete contractor boss (who technically is their customer; not me)

- Concrete guy #1 was on wheel barrow (the truck can't go inside bay's end because of the trench drain at the garage doors; so we had to wheel barrow I say 15 wheel barrows where the bathroom cuts are)

- Then myself: As concrete guy #1 was bringing wheel barrow and tipping it, I was on shovel duty getting everything out

- Concrete crew boss was on a rake (spreading the puddle around evenly ish)

- Concrete guy #2: he's on the floor toweling the first phase

So that's the 5 men pour within 1-1.5 hours on this small project for these pros. (because we know the end result will be porcelain tile; they didn't bring in specialist for extreme polished finishing)

The lower bathroom and mechanical room area, re concrete

The form removed for trench drain

 

[PhantomEB]

Loving it! That’s why I tell all my friends no wall sheeting, not even the ceiling. One breaker box out to the garage, one 15 amp that leads to outlets in front of each bay. Same with lights, just a simple LED fixture to branch out from. Give the city the least to look at.

I went full bore, minimal issues.

 

[TomcoPDR]

Loving it! That’s why I tell all my friends no wall sheeting, not even the ceiling. One breaker box out to the garage, one 15 amp that leads to outlets in front of each bay. Same with lights, just a simple LED fixture to branch out from. Give the city the least to look at.

I went full bore, minimal issues.

Thx man... yeah, since the intentions for this build is majority a servicing shop/business income operations (i.e not something with front office, showroom/customer waiting area). I want to keep my spending to a minimal and simple.

lol, in a way some of my friends visiting are actually joking about not rebuild mezzanine, and leaving the bathroom like this, make shift. Just make it a quick in/out auto appearance shop (customer comes, drops off vehicle usually doesn't stick around, then comes pickup and pays)

Haha, yes... I think with this post, it'll bring us UP TO DATE. So this place now more or less is what builders would call "roughed in?" (just drains in floor, no walls) So I think I'll just have to approach building the mezzanine like a basement renovation (I know some fellow American members won't have basements pending their locations; I'm just use to it and seeing friends develop their own basements up here)… (fyi: the mezzanine has engineer stamp and the architect with building permit from the city, so the lumber (sizing) and how it's built still needs to be signed off by a city inspector)


Ok, the last bit of catching up (then it'll stall for a bit)…

1968 Cinderblock warehouse

The concrete contractor boss texting me that they're cutting the grates for trench drains. These typical grates you'd normally see in most shop photos. Guess they come in 4'x8' sheet size, and you got to cut them (torch? Plasma?) The concrete boss sent me this photo as they were cutting at their concrete shop/yard off site.

So 1-2 days after the pour, got the text from concrete boss, ok Thomas my guy will drop off and install the grates (day/days before, I texted him I broke out the plywood form myself); and dropping off the grates there might only be 30-45 mins grinding on some, but he'll leave your spare key on work bench, and lock the door knob, and he (concrete boss) will just square up with me on the invoice on later meet up.

Now I'm all excited that night can't wait for next morning to see these grates (though I've seen them hundreds of times in my high school shop class, bodyshops and dealerships I've worked/subcontracted at; but I guess it's the new car purchase/lease concept, it's something you paid or signed a loan for, for YOU) I show up...

At first glance, it looks cool; and they are. But then the typical me, this is what stuck out, and bugged me.

It seems like the "L" channel is 1-1/4" total in height, BUT, the grate's flatbar is also 1-1/4" in height, however, since the (grate's) flatbar sits INSIDE of the "L" angle, that raises a 1/4" tripping hazard.

It bugged me the entire day or two. But I didn't have the heart to even bring this up to the concrete boss (fact is fact, it's not like he can do anything about it; but it does make we wonder how other places with flush grates on L angle channels do it, do they order 1" welded flatbar grates then?) But I know there'll be tons of labour to fix/grind those, so no point in bringing this up to the concrete boss when he picks up his certified cheque (check) for the job; imo he gave me a fair price; especially we're a city that is seasonal for concrete, so I suppose it was good timing I'm getting this, it's slow time for them.


But as you all know me, there's no way I'll leave that alone lol. Now, the lazy way to make that better, is to probably take a grinder, and bevel the top tip where it's a sharp tripping hazard and just feather it.

But, y'all knowing me... I individually hand grinded each and every single flatbar (both sides), shaving close to 1/4" as possible

But the end result, I hope you'll all like... a FLUSH grate that sits on the "L" angle channels.

It might not mean much to some, but means a lot to me lol... Here's the right photo/ left photo difference, I just can't get my camera phone low enough.

And I tell y'all… having PROFESSIONAL (people that knows wtf they're doing; I'm not talking about me a DIY contractor, I'm talking about the people I've met and hired) is so great. So the concrete cribber (guy building the trench drain box) asked how to set my drains (they even wanted to set my 2 compartment catch basin lower, like you see at car washes with cuts to each corner of the basin; but I'm like DON'T slope my basin, lol I can't and hate working on cars on my feet on slopes)… but anyway, I described to the cribber 10mm tiles with a 2mm Schluter Ditra separating membrane will be my floor finishing. And he did EXACTLY just that, made sure the "L" angle channel where the grate sits, is offset +/-12mm to accompany so.

So I think moving forward process, I'm going to do things weirdly. (Because I'm not a framer to build the new mezz, and I'll need plumbers and electricians)… I'm thinking of starting tiles by myself by the garage door... WHILE, managing the mezz. framers, plumbers, electricians on the inside of the bay. And making my tiling towards the inside.

It's just that sometimes I like to work alone... but sometimes it's cool to hang around with others. I know traditionally you would tile (do flooring) usually at last. But I'd love to walk on nice floors while I'm working though; and after all it is a shop anyways, not like a nice house where you got to becareful not scratching a hardwood floor or something.

 

[shortykorte]

Yep toilet room looks finished to me.

Surprised the concrete guy missed that. Looks like the grate height matches the outside height of angle. Oops. I’d be grinding also but might have waited until tile was all set to verify the grate height.



Shorty Korte
Always remember quality in QST

Sent from my iPhone using Garage Journal

 

[Pressingonward]

Nice work on the grate. I would have fixed that too...or plan on fixing it and get irritated every time I see it, but never get around to actually fixing it...

 

[drivesitfar]

Tom: since you are the PORCELAIN TILE expert was there maybe a way to make the grate flush with the floor with the tile and grout instead of grinding. either way i'm happy you are fixing that cause a couple of toe trips might have had your head spinning of it's axis.

don't disappear and maybe make a few small posts telling us about your thoughts, permitting and the bidding process if you'd like to keep us hanging around and don't forget to ask us a few questions in case you have any cause we'd all like to help you if we can.

hope you are staying warm and speaking of that since i'm guessing it's way below freezing up there how are your cement guys getting the concrete to dry/cure?

cheers and it's looking great so far.

 

[TomcoPDR]

Tom: since you are the PORCELAIN TILE expert was there maybe a way to make the grate flush with the floor with the tile and grout instead of grinding. either way i'm happy you are fixing that cause a couple of toe trips might have had your head spinning of it's axis.

don't disappear and maybe make a few small posts telling us about your thoughts, permitting and the bidding process if you'd like to keep us hanging around and don't forget to ask us a few questions in case you have any cause we'd all like to help you if we can.

hope you are staying warm and speaking of that since i'm guessing it's way below freezing up there how are your cement guys getting the concrete to dry/cure?

cheers and it's looking great so far.

Nice work on the grate. I would have fixed that too...or plan on fixing it and get irritated every time I see it, but never get around to actually fixing it...

Yep toilet room looks finished to me.

Surprised the concrete guy missed that. Looks like the grate height matches the outside height of angle. Oops. I’d be grinding also but might have waited until tile was all set to verify the grate height.



Shorty Korte
Always remember quality in QST

Sent from my iPhone using Garage Journal

Drives… but the issue is, if I manipulate the tiling (so thicken the thinset laying ditra mat, and thicken thinset on tile, so that tile will be flush with heighten grates)… here's my problem with it; THEN, I'll get annoyed how low the "L" channel will become a "groove" now lol and I forward foresee that'll bug me more.

So by grinding the grates now... because the "L" angle is 1000% permanently set, thoroughly consistent 12 mm higher than concrete floor... So say my materials are exactly 12mm and by the time I lay thinset brings everything 13.5 - 14 mm That'll be perfect (what I'm planning, if everything works in my favor): is that I'll bevel my grout with a 3/8" - 1/4" gap between tile and "L" channel. So when you squeegee towards the trench, water won't be stuck with a grate "lippage"

I LOVE that feeling where when you squeegee, and the foam squeegee runs smooth on the flooring surface, and then you can push the squeegee diagonally 45 degree along a trench drain without snagging on anything.

Yes, I have a problem lol...

In my profession, I've been told I over do my work, and we're in the industry where it's pay-per-piece (pay per insurance hail damaged vehicle) too. I'm actually arguing with the contractor that hired me; "but but, it's not finished TO ME, I wanna spend more time on this car"... meanwhile other guys in work stalls next to me are blowing through cars (their invoice tally keeps going up). I guess this is why I hide in my own private garage(s) too, some days, I could be just walking up and down this trench drain (should I grind or not grind down this grate that I'm annoyed with) for HOURS, doing nothing. But it gives me peace, no one can tell me what to do lol.

So got off the phone with the tile distribution company (lol, they let me bypass needing to buy from a flooring store and sell me as if I'm a tile installer); there's this one tile I really like (over the garage condo tiles), but they might be discontinuing it or not enough inventory for me, needing 1,800 sqft worth. Of course, I also tried driving and calling around places with "end inventory" for 1,800 sqft but I think in the tile industry that's still considered a decent order and nobody will view that as end pieces blowout volume. (I even find tile outlets considering 65 sqft worth to be a sellable amount even at a huge $0.75/sqft discount; I guess for a small backslash)

Fired off the engineer stamped plans to a few lumber building companies for spec-ing the mezzanine as well.

Good thing there's no deadlines for this, my builds are so roller coaster, it can go from 0 miles/hr to 150 with a blink of an eye.

 

[TomcoPDR]

hope you are staying warm and speaking of that since i'm guessing it's way below freezing up there how are your cement guys getting the concrete to dry/cure?

Drives Sorry, missed this earlier. I think the concrete supply company, will have different mixes to accommodate for our weather. I'm just indoors, and we left it for 3-4 days before breaking the form. (not really a formula, but they definitely told me just to be safe, don't touch it till after at least 1-2 days, esp since I'm not a rush project to start a business or something)


lol, here's something else to post about... I was at a sushi boat place this weekend... oh man looking at this just makes me cringe. Where this crack is, there's a height difference in the floor, there's a slope. Hopefully this will heighten my awareness (of my cinderblock tile build), and don't just stack and assume "naw, that'll be fine/flat enough"... But yes, this does put a percentage of worry in my head. (mind you, these look like the thin 7mm that's on sale $0.99/sqft at the big box stores)

 

[drivesitfar]

Tom: glad to hear you thought out the tiling option before you ground off all the steel grate edges. sounds like you improved it and hopefully you'll have your squeegee utopia once the tile is installed.

no hurry on my end since you are making all the payments for the property and improvements. are you going to hire friends to work there at the garage while you manage it from afar or is your plan to be the guy working in the garage too?

hope you are warming up a bit and maybe you'll get some of this sunshine we have had the last few days cause rain for almost the entire month of January and most of February was getting depressing here.

cheers

 

[TomcoPDR]

Tom: glad to hear you thought out the tiling option before you ground off all the steel grate edges. sounds like you improved it and hopefully you'll have your squeegee utopia once the tile is installed.

no hurry on my end since you are making all the payments for the property and improvements. are you going to hire friends to work there at the garage while you manage it from afar or is your plan to be the guy working in the garage too?

hope you are warming up a bit and maybe you'll get some of this sunshine we have had the last few days cause rain for almost the entire month of January and most of February was getting depressing here.

cheers

I guess the operations of this 1968 cinderblock, I should be more specific on the termology here:

- automotive business operation in the garage
- renovations of the garage

For stuff that I can do myself (flooring, paint, installing shelves, tile, etc.), I'm purely going to put the final touches myself, I kind of accepted the fact that my labour is "free" in my time off. It's funny, I traded the suburb home life (no fence, deck, home maintenance), to paying condo fees living in an apartment to get out of suburb home chores; ONLY to be back doing "free" reno labour in a garage setting lol

Then business operation in this garage; the auto dent repair side... In my line of work, it's 90% (self guessing) industry standards to pay by piece (per vehicle or per car panel worked on), and all of us technicians are almost all self incorporated. So I'm basically looking to get compensated as a shop/real estate operator. (no different if I did work at a bodyshop, and either they upcharge the end client of my work; or a mix of down charge (like a vendor discount from me to make his profit)… ) So in a way, I'm wearing 2 hats with your question: As property real estate owner, I'm trying to do as much maintenance, upgrades as I can myself. And as a auto business operator, of course, I'd like to get as much work as I can, and whatever I can't take on myself, then I'll hire subcontractor friends and make a percentage gap.


Hee hee, with our city, we have this saying (for those in snow cities using snow rated tires); in our city, we shouldn't change out of our winter tires till at least MAY lol... we're have some "nice days" but not holding my breathe (for Canadians in the 3 to 10 degrees, that'd be a wicked day for Feb) lol, in 2015 I think, I remember in January had a work trade show in Orlando, Florida and you can tell who the Canadians were in shorts and t-shirts, but it's considered winter over there; we were loving the pool at the conference resort too.

But I'm heading to California next week (one of these tri-state cities, I guess a little privacy ish)… for a week, to visit my first baby niece from older brother. So far she's a cutie pie in photos. (lol, obviously not my baby, so can't post)

But, I am planning ahead, so that I can update GJ... I've already got 1,800 sqft tiles ordered lol (it'll take 2 weeks to arrive to my city, from their bigger Vancouver (Canada) headquarter; so flying next week for a week, ideally it should be good I'm coming back the same time tiles arrive to my local store)

So within these days before my California visit, I'm going to start Schluter Ditra separating membrane by the garage doors. Since I'm trying to get the garage door (front we'll call it) of the warehouse tiled... the back inner part will be left raw till the trades (framer, electric, plumbing; probably drywallers are done, and actual walls and corners and such are permanently in it's positions.

But it was also a crazy day today, had to service a bodyshop owner friend that's 2 miles up the hill from my 1968 cinderblock warehouse.

Had to do extraaaaa careful and good work, because the vehicle was inside the paintbooth with super duper bright and multiple tube lights, so you spot every before/after within the orange peel of the panel. (i.e. this is obvious so not airing dirty laundry; but a trade secret in our industry, for high volume pump/dump dent shops, is to purposely park the vehicles in super sunny blinding parking spots when the customer comes to pickup their vehicle)

And it's not like it's a big chain bodyshop, it's the actual shop owner watching, since I'm the sub on this deal so his shop's name is still associated with the job, so of course he made sure he was happy with my work.

But I think that's the thing in my trade too... just because I'm building a fun small warehouse (in future exchange waiting to sell the deep North end garage condo); but I'm still going to be stuck running all over the city servicing other auto shops pending on the situation. Let alone, I'm sure most Americans on GJ know how hail insurance industry works; so if a storm hits, I'm still going to get calls to leave my hometown to any hail site anyways. (so another part to answer Drives, If there's a decent pay hail gig out of my hometown, I might just lock the doors to my cinderblock, and go out to work... it's hard to "trust" someone operating my shop, unless they've offered a good figure while I'm away; but that'll be so unconventional commercial leasing which are usually 5-10 years... It'll be weird to turn my shop to a complimentary trade like window tinting or detailing for few months, then expect my shop back in 5-6 months when I'm back home from the road lol) Cause I want to play in my own shop in my down time too



I think I'm all over the map with this post, lol... long grinding hours today, but the hustle isn't exactly connecting these days. Just pure grind

 

[drivesitfar]

Tom: great information and you kindof answered all my questions so I hope it all turns out for the best for you. since you don't know what the future holds i'm sure there is room for change. yep you thought you were going to live the life of a condo and condo garage, but the itch to buy and run your own business was strong. good luck with that and it's a lot of work, but sounds like it will be worth it.

since you mentioned that most of the cars and trucks in your area might have studded tires til May how does the tile hold up when studs drive on them?

have fun in California with your brother and his new baby and i'm sure you'll like the temperatures better than the arctic where you hang your hat.

cheers

 

[TomcoPDR]

since you mentioned that most of the cars and trucks in your area might have studded tires til May how does the tile hold up when studs drive on them?


cheers

Actually, haven't had any visitors of the tiled Vaults garage condo roll in with studded winters. So, out of people with snow/winter rated tires, not all need to be studded. My truck's winter tires are just like this, didn't get them studded (need to do it when they're new mostly). So just a softer rubber compound, and the trend patterns.

But, I also think porcelain tiles will hold up against studded winters... haha, guess we'll find out with this 1968 cinderblock operational auto shop.

Here's something I'd like to write about tonight before heading to zzzzzz.

So I made friends with our residential high rise apartment maintenance guy since moving here 18-20 months ago. He's been on the building since it's built about 11-12 years ago, so he knows every single (builder's bulk purchase) appliances and how they break down, every secret crawl space in this building, resourceful guy.

Texted him asking for a gift. So our apartment run on centrally heated and air condition system (i.e. one giant mechanical area, lol, as big as the 1968 cinderblock warehouse 1,500-2,000 sqft fenced off area in the parkade or even bigger), but there're blower fan/return air in each unit, which has it's own filter in the ducting; they get changed twice yearly.

So I asked our building of 300-500 unit's super/maintenance for the dirty ones.

But why? Everytime doing mortar/thinset, even at best, I still need a small 4 Litre bucket to wash the towel, scooper, scrapper, etc. Sure, if I'm going for a long hard day's session, I'll use the previous mix's wash water to be my beginning water for a new mixture. But lunch, or end of day eventually comes or inevitably, just got to deal with that dirty water to dump. So at the Vaults garage condo, because they were still constructing, there's raw dirt pile that hasn't be paved that guys just put concrete, or other clean fill stuff back in the clay soil. Basically, I've collected these HVAC filters, just to try screening some dirt from filling up the catch basin. (there's still always a finger tip full at the end of the bucket pour, but I'll just garbage that as much as I can)

 

[Pressingonward]

Nice way to repurpose old filters and keep your drainage system clean!

 

[drivesitfar]

Tom: we don't have much snow here, but some years it does dump a foot or two and it stays around for a few days or weeks. that said I've only used studded tires for a couple winters on my Honda Crv that had a manual that could drive almost anywhere.

i've only chained up to go over a mountain range once in my life and i've went over many. those all weather tires with front wheel drive were usually enough to get me through the snow around here or up to a ski resort that had just had a foot or two dumped on it. the issue we have around here in snow is some of the people that drive on our roads haven't ever seen it and they can barely drive ok in the rain so i stay off the local roads unless it's an emergency when it snows in town plus we have a ton of hills.

the hardest part about driving on the snow in our area (besides the idiots that think 4 wheel drive is good at stopping or turning) is that during the day the temps get above freezing hence melting and then re freezing at night puts a nice coat of ice under the snow.

nice idea about the filtering.

 

[TomcoPDR]

the hardest part about driving on the snow in our area (besides the idiots that think 4 wheel drive is good at stopping or turning).

We've got a few of those up here too lol. (or perhaps I seem like one too, to other drivers lol)

I've actually never ever tried chaining up. I know my California cousins, when they head into Lake Tahoe or Reno? (one of those skiing areas, some of those roads are mandatory I believe, but don't quote me exactly); and I believe some parts of British Columbia, Canada are too; or at the very least snow/mud rated. If you're driving from my city, towards the West through the mountains, there're some whidee/curvy roads.

One of these years, maybe I'll have the courage to pickup and just leave a (snow) wintery city, and relocate to somewhere without all the yearly snow.

 

[TomcoPDR]

This is up to date, all caught up photos for 1968 Cinderblock warehouse (2,000 sqft)

Get to the shop this morning, looked around, honestly wasn't motivated to work at all today. Organized some stuff, shop vacuumed to "to be Schluter Ditra" area...

Sold $8 paint tray off Fb marketplace. On the forums, of course it's correctly assumed there's some expenses being burn $$$ through these builds as a DIY private project. (i.e. not some big financed builder, or big mod shop business or something)… But I also want to share this, I'm also frugal, and respectful not to be wasteful whenever I can. (i.e. real estate just isn't moving in our city, as much as I'd like my Vaults garage condo to move/sold, there's not much I can do when there're no bites; so it's just about holding tight and just keep paying the bills... but that doesn't mean I can't value-shop on stuff I'm installing into 1968 cinderblock, as well as count my pennies even selling junk laying around even for lunch money, might be small efforts but still something satisfying; and really, I just tell the buyer the cinderblock address and times I'm there, and either they come or not)


After the FB marketplace paint trays buyer left, I was saved by the bell, a friend called to hang (he requested for somewhere downtown, which is my condo area)… I'm like sweet. So I did some Ditra cutting for tomorrow, hopefully tmr have energy to keep thinsetting. In the bottom photos, that'll be around 2 of the largest 1/8" Ditra rolls (missing are the loose Ditra I cut today, will still need to thinset tmr; so tmr will have a bit more coverage). I think in total I'll need 6 large Ditra 1/8" rolls (by calculations)… it's good, give it some real naturally air drying time, for when I get back from California in 2 weeks, get that garage door area all tiled up, then start moving my junk/**** on top of the tiles. Then start also planning the mezzanine materials (already in communication with these truss/lumber companies submitted my engineer approved plans to them to spec, and they'll double check my plans with their in house engineers too)

 

[drivesitfar]

Tom: Now that you are caught up on your past work at the 68 garage maybe you can start making small daily posts that might give you motivation to do a few things you can post a few pictures and words about when you just stop by the shop. also spend a little time on other GJ threads watching, reading and learning and posting a few questions or good words and getting to know more of us.

I can't tell you how many times I've gone to my storage unit and i could work days there organizing or moving stuff and I left after a few minutes to do something more interesting.

once the shop is set up with all your improvements AND it starts making cash instead of BLEEDING CASH like it is now you will smile more and like being there.

take care and STAY WARM!!

 

[TomcoPDR]

Tom: Now that you are caught up on your past work at the 68 garage maybe you can start making small daily posts that might give you motivation to do a few things you can post a few pictures and words about when you just stop by the shop. also spend a little time on other GJ threads watching, reading and learning and posting a few questions or good words and getting to know more of us.

I can't tell you how many times I've gone to my storage unit and i could work days there organizing or moving stuff and I left after a few minutes to do something more interesting.

once the shop is set up with all your improvements AND it starts making cash instead of BLEEDING CASH like it is now you will smile more and like being there.

take care and STAY WARM!!

I like that sometimes when you post in a GJ thread, it'll have a green marker. (a bit easier to sort out the stuff you're tracking, and some garages that you may not had checked out/commented)

Tomorrow, I'm getting to my airport earlier, multi purposes (if my timing works out): The Vaults (to park my vehicle, and Uber from there, but I could use some time at Vaults to disassemble my tile saw and place it in my vehicle for when I come back), And also, I got some FREEEEEE airport lounge passes that came with my free (fees waived) credit card, so I wanna use that up and do my lunch there (hopefully they haven't cheaped out, I remember over the span of 5-7 years, airport lounges have slowly watered themselves down, will see, haven't flown in 8-9 months, nope, I don't get out much)… And while over spending time at the airport, as per Drives instructions, spend some time doing some GJ thread research, and just general day dreaming.

Here's how the 1968 Cinderblock warehouse looks now, did some prep work this morning. Anxiety coming back, and have to turn on the grind mode to lay some tiles. Aiming to get the orange (Ditra) area done within a few days (as in tile where you see the orange area now), and keep on moving inwards of the warehouse (then stop for mezzanine frame works)

Oh, before signing off for the mini break for 1968 Cinderblock... here's something I want to write about today.

So in order to lay Schluter Ditra to the substrate, you need to roll and even out the thinset underneath with a floor roller right. Well, and holy cow, Schluter wants $250.00 for their (I'm sure it's well engineered) floor roller, which for me, during the Vaults garage condo build, I thought would be my only and final tile project. So I didn't feel it was worth the $250.00 to spend.

So for the Vaults garage condo tiling, I just quickly whipped up my own floor roller, using a $20 Amazon wooden (cooking) rolling pin. Let's call it Thomas' Ditra roller 1000.

But it was inefficient, initially thinking I'll use the 50 lbs tile box as weight (recommended by Ditra 50 -75 lbs weight). It was way too top heavy, so much efforts to push it around, as well as horrible turning/manoeuvrability.

After a few feet of the Tom Ditra 1000... I had to change it up to the Thomas Ditra roller 2000.

Same gross weight (give or take), with a smoother and easier operation.

The problem was; I thought I was done done (like no more whatsoever) of tiling or Ditra-ing, so I disassembled my Ditra roller 2000 saved the lumber and fasteners, tossed the wooden rolling pin when I moved into the 1968 Cinderblock. (and I was thinking, pfffffff, 1968 Cinderblock is an operating work shop, even if I tile, why "waste" money on Ditra, just straight tile over substrate/concrete floors, since at $1.50-1.60/sqft of Ditra, it can buy you a whole lot of crack tile replacements; and that's just replacing the worse broken tiles on a selective as needed bases)

I'm sure most GJ guys can relate, somewhere along the line, I still want to make a good wing-it DIY attempt to do it decent.

I want to do it to a point where a professional purposely looks for flaws and uses sentences like: "meh, it's not toooo bad, but, I would had done this and that" For a pro whom does it daily for 10, 20, 30 years needing to criticize a DIY job, just to justify; mind you, completely different than a pro giving detailed, informative and corrective advice. But not to the extreme of buying expensive pro tools, or keep on ripping/replacing till it's 110% perfect.

But still decent enough for general public to say: "wow, you serious? you did that yourself/ GC the build yourself?"


So yes, somewhere along, I just thought it'd be worth the Ditra I guess. (and hey, even if tiles end up cracking (hopefully not many)... I still won't regret doing this step knowing I've made efforts as well as spending the money on purpose-made products; but executed by a DIY guy that might had missed some minor details)

So now, I was scrambling to get a Ditra floor roller, but again, imho, not at $250.

And here it is, the Thomas Ditra floor roller 3000 three thousand. I took a $22 dollars "Harbor Freight" level lumber roller stand. (this thing isn't even the $50 Amazon higher level ball bearing version, it's just two steel plate with holes on the side, and a pin for a shaft). Hope it'll last during this project, and if it does, at least afterwards, I can convert back to a lumber roller stand, even maybe sell it on FB marketplace.

And notice, now with security straps for the weights, because my roller 2000, the weights kept falling on my toes or just simply tipping over.

 

[Pressingonward]

That'll work

 

[drivesitfar]

Tom: you certainly are on the right path of the BETTER THAN AVERAGE DIY work ethic and hoping the tile project at the 1968 goes as well or better than the Vaults.

I hear you on buying new tools to do the work that you'll only need once. in some cases it's a great way to improve our tool inventory and some as you say we might not ever use again so renting or making a proto type version that works are our other options.

looks like you have improved the roller from the Vaults and I agree zip tying them to the boards and handle is a great idea to keep the dumbbells off your toes and the product you are spreading.

good luck on the trip and hope you enjoy a little warm weather since yours at home looks like the north pole some days.

cheers and best of luck with your project.

 

[TomcoPDR]

Can't believe a week's gone by already.

Met my 2 month old niece in California... (American members if you recognize the city please keep my brother's privacy)… photos are just meant for visual.

Basically just hung around the house, but met up with a few cousins, aunts, uncles during the trip too.

What I've learned, babies love to sleep, eat, poop and cry. I guess no different than us adults most times neither.

First day back at 1968 cinderblock warehouse... (waiting on 2,000 sqft of porcelain tiles to arrive to the tile store; somehow I'm so stuck in my ways, I just want to get the garage door area tiling done... before doing anything else)

So during my California hanging out, hours couch surfing, at local coffee shops (I don't go out much to explorer); I was already thinking about the execution of work at the 1968 warehouse; one of the things that bugged me was time spent mixing thinset/mortar (it takes about 20 minutes per "whip" as I call it); problem also is, if you use an entire 50 lbs bag, which fills a 5 gallon pale full, it takes a lot of muscles to make sure it's mixed thoroughly; so I started only using half bag 25 lbs at a time, it makes the task less daunting. HOWEVER, if you split up 25 lbs half bags, now you're burning 40 minutes in two sessions just in mixing)

So during my vacay couching surfing, I was thinking of ways to somehow "automatically" mix thinset. (be it buying used baker's dough mixers, which I found out even used ones go for $2,000 lol), or maybe I can use a discounted Harbor Freight/Princess Auto cheap Made In China home use cement mixer (but how would I clean everything out per bag, etc. Let alone, don't think it'll be the right equipment)

But so glad we're living in the Google era, didn't take long till a link popped up. Ridgid already makes such an item, surely I knew I wasn't the only one tired of this issue but not professional/money enough to hire an employee.

$200 ish bucks (ok, I can still live with that, and after the project, even if I get $100 selling it online or something) HOWEVER, the poor review is what turned me off than the cost. (i.e. it's underpower, and whipping thick stuff such as thinset, the reviews says it'll overheat and stop to cool down)

So I figure this would be a good life hack project first day back at the shop to experiment. (everything I used today, is all recycled materials that's laying around)

Just testing out a simple holding jig for my EXISTING cheapo mixing drill (think it was $125 Cdn, where I've already used it on the 1,200 sqft garage condo tiling)… so fingers cross it'll finish thinset whipping on this 2,000 sqft… then any money I get by selling it online is a bonus; I swear after this 2,000 sqft 1968 warehouse tiling, I'm DONE; love the feel of tiles on my feet/to work on, but annoyed about doing it, lol

There we have it, the Thomas automatic thinset/mortar mixer 5000. Have not put it to test yet. But nothing that zip ties can't hold down I suppose. I'll time my tile laying speed lol, then obviously turn this puppy on 20 minutes prior to running out.


The time flies when you're messing around with useless unproven jig's like this sometimes. But I was able to squeeze in another micro project. Since I'm just building this at my own speed, I have a feeling it'll be a while till I get a proper bathroom (i.e. going to calculate ALL mezzanine materials and steel doors and such and just make one mega order at a lumber supplier; any small missed stuff I'll get in the truck/suv; but it annoys me paying for secondary professional delivery where the items are still too big/cumbersome to do in a passenger pickup)

So I suppose I'll need a "proper" temp sink for a few months, lol, I'm thinking 9-10 months.

 

[fourbyford]

Hey Thomas, nice job on the mortar mixer 5000! I'm sure that will speed up your work significantly and, be much easier on you! Looks like your temporary bathroom fixtures will get you by until you're ready for the finishing touches...
I can't wait to see how this project turns out!

...D

 

[sean Buick 76]

keep up the great work!

 

[TomcoPDR]

keep up the great work!

Hey Thomas, nice job on the mortar mixer 5000! I'm sure that will speed up your work significantly and, be much easier on you! Looks like your temporary bathroom fixtures will get you by until you're ready for the finishing touches...
I can't wait to see how this project turns out!

...D

Thanks guys.

Take Drives advice still, trying to make micro post as much as I can.

It was a busy weekend... so first, there was a sale at our Princess Auto (Canadian version of Harbor Freight), it's quite heavy (show you guys what it is in a bit)

With the heavy item in the truck box, but the next morning had to pick up my mom from the airport (from her coming back from California visiting her granddaughter)… so I switched out vehicles, and took the SUV lol, to pickup more thinset and Schluter Ditra rolls as the supplier was closer to our airport (and open on Saturdays)

Here's what I bought with the truck on Friday late night. This scaffolding set on sale for $550.00 Cdn. I figure I'll need tons of ceiling work, (for sure I'm spraying it), I think my hobby reno will be too choppy to get value from renting scissor lifts, or too hard to "time"

Just can't go wrong keeping this up till the project is wrapped up.

Ohhhh, and here's another $200 goodie I got from Amazon from my California couch surfing research. These types of grouting clean up kits are suppose to work really well, instead of sponge and water bucket. Those rollers are suppose to clean up the sponge well, so no more tired wrists

 

[drivesitfar]

Tom: your cool inventions are amazing and I hope they work as intended. your plumbing idea looks like it will work and most guys would just rent a porta potty for $100 a month and with the money saved you can spend it on something useful.

I still might get a small rolling scaffolding unit to do some painting around here on our house and yours should come in very handy for wiring and lights and maybe the insulation too if you are planning on doing it yourself.

keep up the good work!!

 

[TomcoPDR]

Tom: your cool inventions are amazing and I hope they work as intended. your plumbing idea looks like it will work and most guys would just rent a porta potty for $100 a month and with the money saved you can spend it on something useful.

I still might get a small rolling scaffolding unit to do some painting around here on our house and yours should come in very handy for wiring and lights and maybe the insulation too if you are planning on doing it yourself.

keep up the good work!!

So here’s a discussion. As of now, kinda down time (day job is slow, current covid19 just laying low etc)

So my 2,000 sqft tiles (3 pallet skids) my local tile distribution store says there’re delay to get ALL into town (partial, I don’t know how partial)

- option one: head to my tile warehouse store and get a pallet with my f150 (based on specs, should be able to handle the 1 pallet weight around 2,000 lbs)

- just sit tight. Wait for all tiles (3 pallet) worth to arrive, the tile place will deliver to site, and rent a $300 cdn ($250 usd?) forklift and have all tiles on site, on ground level


So if I use my truck, (unload it by hand from high height), then I’ll have to commit doing all 3 pallets in three trips (tile warehouse has space to hold it for me. And willing to let me pay per pallet as I pick up. So I could pu a pallet spend the 1-2 weeks laying, then go back for 2nd...)

Oh the dilemma

 

[drivesitfar]

TOM: first and most important thing to consider is if you just pick up one pallet will other pallets be from same batch and same color?

if so you might have heard I prefer exercise over spending money on help and maybe machines, but that's your call.

since you are going to get plenty of exercise just laying the tile you might want to rent the fork lift (or buy one and let it start paying for itself cause they do come in handy).

not sure I helped you or caused you to go searching for a great well maintained used fork lift? in any case the tiles being the same color is the key and then decide from there on your time vs. money.

if color will be the same on all 3 pallets if you pick up one today and you have time to unload and maybe get them placed where you can start laying tile then go for it.

good luck!!

 

[TomcoPDR]

Thanks Drives

Yes. The color is from one order. (It’s just that it’s coming from their Vancouver headquarter to us. So 1,200 km away). But it’s from 1 ordering

At this point however, I’m leaning towards staying put and forklift rental to unload.

Our city imo. Has had a couple of bankruptcy auctions (maybe it’s just like that with all cities)... I “WAS” in bids on a few (lol I only need one. But put my name on a few)... and settled my max price. But no dice... I’m pretty such the professionals all know their forklift/heavy equipment value, IMO. So to auction win something more than 50% of market value; then selling it off, I think for our city, is still tough to do.

TOM: first and most important thing to consider is if you just pick up one pallet will other pallets be from same batch and same color?

if so you might have heard I prefer exercise over spending money on help and maybe machines, but that's your call.

since you are going to get plenty of exercise just laying the tile you might want to rent the fork lift (or buy one and let it start paying for itself cause they do come in handy).

not sure I helped you or caused you to go searching for a great well maintained used fork lift? in any case the tiles being the same color is the key and then decide from there on your time vs. money.

if color will be the same on all 3 pallets if you pick up one today and you have time to unload and maybe get them placed where you can start laying tile then go for it.

good luck!!

 

[Jagmandave]

Will they deliver it on a truck with a lift? If so then all you need is a pallet jack to unload it from the truck.

2000 sq ft or tile is a MAJOR tile job.....I hope they're not 6" or even 12" tiles.....I'd be going for the biggest ones I could to cover that much territory....

 

[TomcoPDR]

Will they deliver it on a truck with a lift? If so then all you need is a pallet jack to unload it from the truck.

2000 sq ft or tile is a MAJOR tile job.....I hope they're not 6" or even 12" tiles.....I'd be going for the biggest ones I could to cover that much territory....

It’ll look like this. They only have this flat deck. This tile store will only do this type of delivery if there’s unloading at site (ie. forklift. Or labour to manually hand bomb it)

And for sure I’m gonna use 2’x2’ tiles. Get 4 sqft coverage per tiling action. I thought about 1’x2’ when they go on discount.

As of this text. It’s looking more just waiting till all tiles arrive. And just have 3 pallets sitting on the ground at site, and available in one shot

 

[FANTM58]

Thanks guys.

Take Drives advice still, trying to make micro post as much as I can.

It was a busy weekend... so first, there was a sale at our Princess Auto (Canadian version of Harbor Freight), it's quite heavy (show you guys what it is in a bit)

With the heavy item in the truck box, but the next morning had to pick up my mom from the airport (from her coming back from California visiting her granddaughter)… so I switched out vehicles, and took the SUV lol, to pickup more thinset and Schluter Ditra rolls as the supplier was closer to our airport (and open on Saturdays)

Here's what I bought with the truck on Friday late night. This scaffolding set on sale for $550.00 Cdn. I figure I'll need tons of ceiling work, (for sure I'm spraying it), I think my hobby reno will be too choppy to get value from renting scissor lifts, or too hard to "time"

Just can't go wrong keeping this up till the project is wrapped up.

Ohhhh, and here's another $200 goodie I got from Amazon from my California couch surfing research. These types of grouting clean up kits are suppose to work really well, instead of sponge and water bucket. Those rollers are suppose to clean up the sponge well, so no more tired wrists

Nice choice, DITRA un coupler membrane .

 

[TomcoPDR]

Nice choice, KERDI un coupler membrane .

I have no choice, the 1968 floors are so pitted and gouged. (Yes I’ve even paid concrete grinding service). I just feel safer to use uncoupling membrane before tiling. Originally thought naw, just a work shop floor. But then in between I’m like, doing all this motion, to not do it, and having tiles fail I’ll be kicking myself.

 

[drivesitfar]

Tom: sounds like you might need a pallet jack? I've found many on our local craigslist for $50-200, but usually the cheap ones have some sort of issue. I own two and even though I don't use them often they sure come in handy.

once you have your tile on pallets on the ground maybe having a pallet jack to move the pallets of tiles (or partially filled pallets you custom load for certain areas) to each location you are working might save your back and give you extra energy to actually lay the tile.

i've also seen scratch and dent new JET brand pallet jacks sell for $225-250, but not sure what's available in your part of the world. even if you have to buy a new one I bet you'll get many many years of good use out of it moving big items around on pallets at your shop.

is the orange base (KERDI) a type of hardie cement board cause it almost looks soft and rubbery? in any case i know you will do a great job and remember to take plenty of pics. Then post when you have time, but at least you'll have them for your records while you share with us.

good luck!!

 

[TomcoPDR]

Tom: sounds like you might need a pallet jack? I've found many on our local craigslist for $50-200, but usually the cheap ones have some sort of issue. I own two and even though I don't use them often they sure come in handy.

once you have your tile on pallets on the ground maybe having a pallet jack to move the pallets of tiles (or partially filled pallets you custom load for certain areas) to each location you are working might save your back and give you extra energy to actually lay the tile.

i've also seen scratch and dent new JET brand pallet jacks sell for $225-250, but not sure what's available in your part of the world. even if you have to buy a new one I bet you'll get many many years of good use out of it moving big items around on pallets at your shop.

is the orange base (KERDI) a type of hardie cement board cause it almost looks soft and rubbery? in any case i know you will do a great job and remember to take plenty of pics. Then post when you have time, but at least you'll have them for your records while you share with us.

good luck!!

No no. The orange underlay is just regular schluter DITRA.. the model schluter kerdi if I understand is for showers. Ditra, is just a roll where the fleece side goes on the substrate. And the orange squares facing up feels like soft plastic. But once the fleece side is thinset down and dries/hardens, you can feel gliding your shoes on the orange surface is much smoother. Of course I admit. As a diy, since I’m not building a AAA office building and require 99.999% flatness, Of course you’ll still be able to feel some terrain difference even over Ditra, so it’ll be my first seeing if 1/2” thinset towel and large tiles will make that better. I’m pretty sure my particular floor will have some sort of slope or kill age flaws.

I’m actually keepin tabs on some pallet jacks on fb marketplace and bidding on some (one) thru these online bankruptcy auctions locally. But see my comment on moving full 2,000 lbs on pallet around is that I’m worry it’ll crush those air channels on the Ditra. My plan was, with he forklift (hopefully with non-hard wheels) is to place the 3 pallets in 3 strategic spots. Prob easier to explain in photos than words.

Yeah, it seems like this weekend is toasted for no 1968 progress. (No words on complete tile orders, just lost a little steam, snowing in our city now). Just “trying” to stay productive at condo organizing corporate tax files, sold a $15 moving dolly (have lime 6-7 dollies from last projects)

 

[shortykorte]

Doesn’t need gas, oil or charging. [emoji16]


Shorty Korte
Always remember quality in QST

Sent from my iPhone using Garage Journal

 

[TomcoPDR]

Doesn’t need gas, oil or charging. [emoji16]


Shorty Korte
Always remember quality in QST

Sent from my iPhone using Garage Journal

Looked into them. Biggggggg $$$