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Between 485 & 705 SQ/FT Tinkering Tony's Workshop

Workspaces between 485 and 705 squarefeet.
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B3D3G1

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Lakewood, CO
Weekend Update:

My work actually gave the whole company a day off for mental health on Friday. I took advantage of the last day of nice weather and went for my first outdoor bicycle ride of the year. I'm committed to do the Triple Bypass (Evergreen to Vail) in August and the Mt. Evans Hill Climb in July. I haven't been on top of my training as much as I wanted so I've got some work to do to prepare.
Road up Lookout Mountain:
lookout.png
Afterwards, I made a run to Home Depot to get some supplies for mounting the Mini-split and painting which turned into a 3 hour expedition and I didn't have time to really do much else before dinner time. I did ogle and walk on the new floor some.

Saturday morning I had my 1/2 day MIG welding class. It was pretty good and aimed at hobbyists getting into it. We spent most of the time talking a little bit about technique and then settings on the machine. After some practice on 1/8" steel strips at 90 degrees, we started talking about overhead, vertical, and lap joints. It was nice to get to play around with it and try out different settings. I didn't walk away totally comfortable what needs to change and why in all these common positions, but I think I have an understanding on what to look up when I'm going to do some out of position welding. Generally, I'm now comfortable picking up a MIG welder and attempting to weld, as long as I have some practice on similar materials before it really matters.

In the afternoon, I got to installing the Mini Split. It took a little longer than I was anticipating to get the indoor unit squared away. Nothing was difficult, just took time to setup the piping and bracket. I was debating exact location and I didn't really like that the indoor bracket wasn't really designed for 16" stud spacing. I lined up the left vertical row of the bracket with a stud, got a mid bracket hole in the 2nd stud, and then used some drywall anchors on the right 2nd vertical row. It's not more than 40 pounds so I should be fine.
bracket.png
I drilled my first hole in the wall for the 2.5" passage to the outside. No major issues there. I had the long tubes connected so I had to wrestle the indoor unit into place while pushing the tubing through the wall. I used a ladder to rest the unit on while doing this and ended up scratching up the nice gloss white panel a little bit. I'm sure it won't be noticeable when the is more stuff in the workshop but this is literally an empty room with only the indoor unit mounted on the wall.
indoor.png
On the outside, I had a plan to deal with the stud spacing. I picked up some superstrut and spanned 3 studs with lab bolts to attach the strut. This made it super easy to mount the bracket to the strut and adjust it to the exact spacing before lifting the exterior unit onto the wall. I saw some pictures of on an Amazon review that led me down this road. My educated guess on electrical box location was dead on too.
minibracket.png
It started getting dark and pretty cold so I couldn't get it all done on Saturday. To get it functional, I just have to hook up electrical and refrigerant lines on the exterior unit and vacuum out the lines. I also have a decorative cover for the exterior lines and a little bit of clean up work to do on the exterior hole in the wall.
outside.png

On Sunday, it was pretty much snowing all day and below freezing. I got my indoor bike workout done and I didn't really feel like working out in that weather so I did a few other tasks and clean up the stuff I had scattered about in the workshop and my attached garage.
I hung my sign over the door using some aluminum spacers and lag bolts to set it off the siding a little bit.
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I also added a door stop so the door wouldn't hit the garage door beam sensor anymore. This one had a giant 3/8" stud in the center for mounting, but I was also going to use the 3 outer holes to make it look nice. Well, only 1 of the drilled holes lined up enough to put in a screw in but it's still rock solid. I used the included plastic expanding inserts for all the holes. This one has a hook to hold the door open instead of fussing around with a wedge door stop that my dog would probably grab and run away with.
doorstop.png

Even with outside temps in the mid/low 20s for at least 24 hours, the inside of the workshop was 50 degrees. It was pretty comfortable in there relatively speaking. I tackled the mini-split first so I could do the final painting independent of weather, but the insulation might be enough to keep it around that 50 degree temp on the paint can. It's going to be pretty cold and snowy for the next week so I'll see what it feels like in a few days. I'm hoping to find a clear evening to get the mini-split working and not worry about it.
 
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B3D3G1

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Nice work on the mini split so far. Mine should be here any day. Hope to have to get it installed soon.
Thanks. I just came in from finishing up the mini split install. Electrical was easy. I decided to shorten and reflare the refrigerant lines but that was pretty easy too.

I did have an issue with the vacuum process. I let the pump run for ~15 minutes, closed the valve, and made sure the pressure didn't drop after 5 minutes. When I cracked the open the refrigerant valve, the gauge stayed at vacuum. I tried opening the valve a longer and then tried the 2nd valve. At that point, I was kind of screwed as I had already released the full refrigerant. I messed with the guage some more and finally realized the hose connection at the service valve was not pushing in the center pin on the service valve. I'm not sure what I'm missing. It's like I need to extend the center of the connector on the blue line some. I momentarily opened the valve with the tip of a screw driver so I know it's pressurized. I can safely say that I did not vacuum the refrigerant lines or have a valid check the lines weren't leaking before releasing the refrigerant. At least it's pretty low humidity around here.

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B3D3G1

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After reading about the reasons to vacuum out the lines, I decided to call in the professionals. I never enjoy the feeling of calling someone up to fix my mistake. Hopefully it's an easy fix and they just need to remove the air from the refrigerant.

I was trying to figure out how they would do this and the only thing I could see was transferring all the refrigerant to a recovery tank and then clearing/purging out the system and adding it back in without the air. I guess we'll find out. Appointment pending with a local HVAC company.
 
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B3D3G1

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Final Contractor work:
On Monday, the general contractor had the final bit of work completed. They just had to finish the garage door work with the install of the automatic deadbolt lock and backup battery in the LiftMaster 8500W. I got the final invoice on Tuesday and handed over the final check on Wednesday. I was curious of the time span for all of this so I put a general time line together.

July-15-2021 - Started Collecting quotes from contractors
Sep-01-2021 - Signed contract with contractor
Dec-09-2021 - Permit issued
Dec-14-2021 - Ground Breaking
Dec-20-2021 - Foundation Done
Jan-14-2022 - Framing/Siding Done
Jan-26-2022 - Rough Electrical Done
Feb-10-2022 - Insulation Done
Feb-19-2022 - Drywall Done
Feb-25-2022 - Final Building Inspection
Mar-07-2022 - All Contractor work done

Contract to work completed: 188 days (6 months, 7 days)
Ground Breaking to Final Inspection: 74 day (2 months, 12 days)

The build sure seemed like longer than 74 days.

Last night I put up my retractable cord reels. One near each corner. The cords need a little bit of time relax from the packaging and the cold weather wasn't helping.
reels1.png
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B3D3G1

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Weekend Update:
It was a busy weekend doing "finishing" work.

I started out painting the lower walls. I have a decent laser level I was using for setting up my car alignment pads. I figured this thing was actually made for construction type of work so I ordered a cheap amazon tripod. It worked pretty well and taping was quick and easy. I decided on a ~4 inch red stripe starting just below the outlets and the rest dark grey.
laser.jpg

When I started painting, I picked up a Handy paint tray and pail. These things have been great. Thin liners and magnets to hold brushes. Moving around the parameter with a roller and having the brush handy when I got the corners was a nice luxury. I also used a piece of cardboard to make sure I didn't hit the new flooring.
painting.jpg

Between coats, I trimmed out the two windows and doors. Bought a door trim kit from home depot so I didn't have to deal with picking from the endless materials and shapes and it was pretty cheap. For the windows, I bought 1x Primed MDF and just did a shelf and a little piece underneath. Both gave me a good excuse to try out the new Milwaukee nail gun. I filled the nail holes, caulked the window and trim, primed, and painted it the next day.
window.jpg
My planned red stripe is only about a 1/2" below the bottom trim piece so I may just use the trim as the top of edge to make masking easier. I'll let everything dry for a week and go back with delicate painter's tape on.

After the lower paint dried, I installed the wall base. I used base bond from Home Depot and it seemed to suggest not using it on painted walls so well see how it sticks overtime. I used their spreader valve directly on the tube and a mini paint roller to push the material against the wall and smooth it out. There are some good videos on YouTube that helped with how to score the back side to make it fit into corners.
BaseBond.jpg

It looks so much better and more finished now. I started looking at blinds at Home depot and it was a little worried about the quality. I found blinds.com for a few bucks more with much better reviews so I'll probably order a pair this week.
I'm ready to be done painting, but I'll have wait until next weekend after the red stripe.
interior.jpg
Lift is scheduled for install on Wednesday and I'm pretty excited to start moving in.
 
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B3D3G1

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Lift Install

The Rotary dealer installed my SP010 lift today. It took them about 4 hours including unloading the forklift. It's the last big piece of the puzzle. After I finish painting the red accent stripe on the walls, I'll be ready to start moving in.

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The sales guy scared me about dragging the pillars across the floor but the actual installers did a great job. I couldn't watch the whole time, but I think they used the moving blankets I laid out for them to help transition from truck to ground but I'm not sure.

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The inside of the right column is just about even with the edge of the garage door. I have about 18" between the back of the column and the wall, plenty to get by without having to squeeze. I also had them put the pump and controls on the left "Driver's side" with my reasoning being I don't want to get trapped against the wall if something goes wrong. I'm 14' off the back wall so I'll have some space to work on the front of a short miata, but I will have to back my truck in.

Now I just need to figure out wiring. The guys recommended SOOW cable so I put in an order for pickup at a nearby Lowes for 12/3 SOOW cable. I guess the top limit switch gets wired inline and I believe it has a little junction box along the top bar where one of the loads will get interrupted if the limit switch is activated. I want to wire in a cut off switch just incase the pump is stuck on, but they recommended not mounting anything to the lower parts of the pillars. Realistically, I'll probably wire it up by the weekend without one and then order the parts to make something work up high where the metal is thinner and the arms don't slide in tracks. I'll just have get something I can activate from a normal height, even if I have to get on ladder or stool to reset. I saw a video on YouTube of a guy that mounted a motor control switch to the safety latch release cover but this one has a molded plastic cover and his was a boxy metel cover. I might be able to use these mount points for my own solution though.
 

jbrentd

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Congratulations on the new lift! Looks like it fits perfect. I can’t be of any help on the wiring, as my 4 post just plugs in to a 120v outlet.
 
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B3D3G1

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Congratulations on the new lift! Looks like it fits perfect. I can’t be of any help on the wiring, as my 4 post just plugs in to a 120v outlet.

Thanks. I was too excited not to work on it last night.

Once I looked at all the connection points, it made a lot of sense. I just needed to pick up some strain reliefs for the 1/2" knock-outs and some wire nuts. It took me a little over an hour to hook it all up. I pretty much just zip tied the electrical cable to the hydraulic line all the way across the top bar and down to the motor. I'll figure out the electrical cutoff later. I learned that it sure does take a while to lower without weight on the arms.
wiring1.png
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grant00

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Looks great! Congrats! The red stripe going on the wall is really going to look nice with the red lift.

Putting that "emergency stop" button down by the motor makes sense. I bet you could just use an industrial E-stop switch or the paddle type switch seen on some table saws. I've seen videos like you're talking about too.
 
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B3D3G1

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Looks great! Congrats! The red stripe going on the wall is really going to look nice with the red lift.

Putting that "emergency stop" button down by the motor makes sense. I bet you could just use an industrial E-stop switch or the paddle type switch seen on some table saws. I've seen videos like you're talking about too.
Thanks!

I did test the overhead limit switch and that is working fine. I'm not too concerned about it but I also know it will be a little while until either the mud right in front of the garage is dry enough to push my miata in or I figure out what I'm doing with the driveway. I can still run to the breaker pretty quick if needed, just not ideal.

I have also been working on my layout some more. I think I'm going to start moving more things in this weekend as I'm getting tired of running back and forth between the workshop and garage. Here's the status of the layout. I was just measuring my current wall tire rack and mapping out the studs in the back right corner.

model.png
 
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B3D3G1

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Weekend Update:

Spent the weekend moving some more stuff in and mounting things on the wall. Also finished painting the walls with the red accent stripe which turned out pretty good.
stripe.png

While waiting between the 3 coats of paint, I mounted the tire rack and TV on the wall.
I ordered a 2nd tire rack to put under this so I can hopefully stop storing race tires in my uninsulated trailer. This top rack with be long-term parking.
Tire rack.png
The TV placement above the window isn't ideal but I'm not building a theater quality experience. The blinds should help with lighting if I want to see the image better, once those go in. Now I don't have to worry about my phone connecting and disconnecting from the little bluetooth speaker when I move around or come back into to the area. I also use YouTubeTV so I have the full channel list and DVR available to me out here now if I want to put on an F1 race.
TV.png

While moving my compressor over, I had to inflate the tires. I didn't feel like pressurizing the whole tank and getting the hose out so I got my little Milwaukee tire inflator. It made me laugh that I was using little guy to inflate the compressor tires so I took a picture.
inflator.png

I spent Sunday mostly building a work bench. Nothing fancy but I'm happy to get off the ground now. Even got a chance to use the lift to put on the wheels. I wasn't done with the top yet in this picture and the final dimensions are 6' x 40". This will also work as an outfeed table for my table saw but it's meant to be a general project work surface. I'm planning on building out more storage in the lower section. I love the CutList extension in SketchUp.
bench.png
 
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B3D3G1

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Weekend update:

Did some more moving of stuff this weekend.
I ended up removing all the shelves from my tool box and tool cart and tipping them into the back of my truck. That worked out pretty well but made me realize how badly I need to organize both of these boxes. I'm just happy not to have to walk back and forth between the garage and workshop for random bits now. I also move tires in and the 2nd wire shelf.
It's now sitting much closer to my plan and I feel like I can actually start to use it now.
workshop.png

I also decided to try out the lift and rotate the tires on my truck. I went up cautiously but everything worked well. I'll need some of those tall jacks to support either end of the truck if I want to do anything more serious. It does look like my Miata will fit in the same spot as the truck if I ever need to.
trucklift.png
 
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B3D3G1

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Weekend update:

I made some garden beds for my wife. She has been planning out her garden this year and our existing small cinder block beds needed to be adjusted for the drive way plan anyways. It sure was nice having the full floor space of the workshop to put this all together.

This is what $500 of wood looks like:
gardenbeds.png

I'm debating putting some polyurethane on the outside faces so it lasts a little longer. Cedar would have tripled the price.
 

jbrentd

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Nice job on the raised beds. I need to do something similar, as our current beds need some work. I'm thinking that'll be a project for this fall/winter.
 
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B3D3G1

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Weekend update:

I started out the weekend with applying spar urethane to the exterior surfaces of the garden beds. I'm not totally convinced this was the best idea, but I'm hoping it protects it a little longer from the sun and rain. I did 2 coats on the sides and top rail so at least it looks nicer now.
planters.png

My big project for weekend was a rolling tool stand with drawers. I reverse engineered the plans by fixthisbuildthat YouTube channel and finally got to using my new table saw. I spent Friday setting up and getting confortable with the saw. I'm a table saw novice so it took a little bit of time get my accuracy dialed in but I didn't make any big mistakes along the way. The workbench I made previously worked great as an outfeed table, as I had planned, and assembly table for this project.
tablesaw.png

This build took 1 sheet of 3/4" plywood and half a sheet of 1/4" plywood. I also decided to paint the base and polyurethane the top. I primed with Kilz2 and chose a color that was similar to the floor but I'm not totally convinced I like it. There was also a big shortage of paint base at the Benjamin Moore store and I got lucky the color I choose was even available in anything other than gloss.
Here's the final product. It's not perfect but it's pretty good for a first table saw project. I know I can do a little better in some spots if I was to redo it but it's perfectly fine for garage furniture. My wife started asking about night stands for our bedroom so it must have looked good to her too.
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I also bought a Wen 12" drill press. It was pretty inexpensive at ~$275 direct from Wen. I plan to fix it to the top of the cart once I put some things in the drawers.

I'm planning on building my own upper and lower cabinets in the near future so this was a good learning experience.
 
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I had some free time last night so I made a little box for my air tools. I'm trying to thin out the stuff in my actual tool box so I can better organize it and I had a whole deep drawer dedicated to this stuff simply because I had no better place to put it. Now it's over by the compressor and hose reel so I'll be much more likely to use it for a quick task.
airtoolbox.png

I have everything setup with Milton V-Style. Originally I had started to use the aluminum color coded couplers but always seemed to get leaks at the couplers. About a year ago, I switched all my fittings to the brass and steel equivalent and everything is leak free since. I still had the aluminum couplers sitting in my drawer so I repurposed them on this box. I don't really use a lot of air tools and I mainly have the big tank for blowing out my 12 station sprinkler system in the fall, but it sure is nice to have this available whenever needed. I hated the sound of the the portable 6 gallon compressor I used to use.
boxinside.png
 
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B3D3G1

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B3D3G1

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Today I added some storage to my work bench for the Harbor Freight small parts bins. I got some inspiration from a few different sources on YouTube and drew up what would fit in my bench.
drawing.png

Ran it through OpenCutList in Sketchup and got my cut sheet:
cutlist.png

Spent the afternoon building it. I have 8 spaces per side with the deep boxes taking up 2 spaces. Pocket hole and wood screws are organized for now. I will eventually add all the metric and standard hardware and electrical parts.
bench.png
 
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B3D3G1

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Things I've been working on in my spare time:

Cabinet uppers:
I start building the cabinet uppers about 2 weeks ago. I took a rather simple approach to make the three 30 inch sections a little modular incase I want to reconfigure in the future and to make the building a little bit simpler. The only down side is a little extra wood and paint. I also decided to try my hand at hanging them with french cleats.
I drew them in Sketchup and used OpenCutList to get the dimensions figured out:
uppersdrawing.png
I spent the first weekend cutting, constructing and starting to paint and went back a few times during the week for more painting. On Friday, I tried hanging the main boxes. I should have bought better quality wood as the warped wood was much more obvious when next to each other on the wall, but hey, its garage furniture. Sanding and painting would have also been a lot better since only one side was sanded.
I prepped all the doors with the Kreg door hinge jig and handle jig. When I went to hang the doors, I noticed a bit of a problem. I had about a 3/4 inch gap between the doors. Looking back, I was a little unsure how much the hung doors would over hang the frame, how much of a clearance to plan for at the center, and how much of a gap was needed between modules so they would not interfere when opening. I think I ended up removing my clearance estimates twice from the measurements, once in the model and once just before cutting. I tried to force the adjustments on the hinges to the max with no success. I was a little bummed when I first discovered this. Luckily, I can turn all the doors into shelfs and just remake the doors but I had other plans already for the weekend.
uppersdoorgap.png

Broom Rack:
I also made a little rack for my brooms. I was already throwing them behind the door so I figured I mount them to the wall. I got a few mounts off of amazon and mounted to a scrap piece of wood. Routed the edges and painted it.
broomrack.png
I ended up with my Dad's router. I'm guess it's about 40 to 50 years old. Looks like the picture below but I picked up a new WhiteLine round over bit.
router.png
 
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B3D3G1

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I really like the level of detail and organization you have going on. Shop is coming together nicely!
Thanks! I'm really just making it up as I go. I have never had a space like this to work on and most of the things I'm doing are my first time trying.

I'm hoping to get upper and lower cabinets in by the end of May so I can move my race car into this space. I'm still working on a plan for the driveway and an adjacent patio area that need to be done by the end of the year along with some bathroom refreshing.
 
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B3D3G1

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Finally finished my upper cabinets.
uppersclosed.png
Uppersopen.png

Easier the 2nd time around to get the right door sizes and the old doors were cut down to become the shelves. I will probably spend a few more minutes tweaking the door alignments but I'm calling it done.

Next up will be the lowers and plenty of drawers. Preliminary plan is match the uppers with 3x 30" sections, each with about 6", 6", 9" and 15" drawers. I need to draw it up in Sketchup and see if I like the layout.
 
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B3D3G1

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I have my lower cabinets planned out. I'll need 3 sheets of 3/4" plywood and 6 sheet of 1/2" plywood for this design. 90" wide, 27" deep, 37.5" tall.
lowersplan.png
I learned from my last few projects to build in stages and only cut what is needed for that stage so I can adjust measurements accordingly. For this project, the stages will be cabinet carcass, drawers, drawer faces. I'm also planning to use the dado blade for the first time for the drawer construction.

I'm not sure how much progress I'll make this weekend since I really need to fix my sprinkler system. I dug up a few lines last weekend that were destroyed during the workshop build and I'm hoping the rain we had this week will make the digging a little easier on the rest of it.
 
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B3D3G1

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I spent the entire weekend on the sprinkler system. Not much to show for it now after covering all the trenches. I ripped out all the old lines and figured out what lines to connect to what areas. There was an old system mixed in with the current system that got cut a few places with the foundation work of the workshop. It was exhausting. I ended digging well over 100 feet of trench in order to run new lines.

I did relocate a spigot to the side of the workshop and re-allocated an old station to have a dedicated station for the garden beds. All 3 garden beds have a water connection now and I'll cap it off at dirt height when we fill them soon. I bought some drip line with holes every 12" that I plan to snake around the plants.
Spigot.pnggardenbed.png
My wife has all the plant seeds started indoors so we will probably need to move to to the outside beds in the next few weeks. Some look more ready than others but that's her department.
plants.png
 
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B3D3G1

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I have been working on getting some contractors here for a few projects.

I really want a sink in the workshop so I have a few plumbers scheduled to come by and give a quote to hook up water and the drain in the workshop. I'm just planning on cold water for now and I have the PVC pass throughs in the foundation. I already ordered a fairly basic sink and faucet at Lowe's that should be ready for pick up at the end of the week. I'm hoping this doesn't balloon into a huge expensive project.

I'm also working to finish the outdoor area around the workshop. I need to put in a driveway still and we want to add a patio area while we are doing the concrete work. The patio area will probably have some type of pergola shade structure and possibly a gas fire pit. We're still working out the details. One of the contractors said they are booking for mid August work now so I hope that is not the case for all the contractors.
Here is a rough sketch of what I'm looking to do. The new concrete work is in grey.
concrete.png
 

jbrentd

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Good on you for doing the work to repair the sprinklers yourself. As you know, I had a bit of that work too and ended up spending about $900 to DIY compared to the $10k quote I got.
 
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B3D3G1

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Good on you for doing the work to repair the sprinklers yourself. As you know, I had a bit of that work too and ended up spending about $900 to DIY compared to the $10k quote I got.
I probably spent about $250 on parts which was generally lower than expected. The flexible 3/4" tubing was only ~$22 per 100 feet so most of the cost was in the tube adapters and accessories needed. It is a much better experience going to a irrigation supplier than the big box stores. I just wish the smaller suppliers were open more weekend hours.
 
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B3D3G1

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I had the first plumber out here to look at my situation and give me a quote on adding a sink to the workshop. I learned a good amount by talking through it with them.

For the drain, the easiest solution will probably be to trench from the workshop over to the clean out caps seen in the foreground of this picture. I think that means they don't have to dig down as deep to tie into it. It's still something like 30+ feet of trenching.
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For the water supply, we are not exactly sure the path of the piping but the main cut off is in the well pit and runs along our studio building (aka "Pain Cave") and over to the house. It is probably also very near the same sewer inspection caps.
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This is all good from the external connection points but getting into the building is a little bit tricky. They are supposed to come up from 48" deep (I think) and within the conditioned space (inside the footers). This would mean they would have to cut out a patch of my workshop floor and the connection points would not be on the wall and I'm not really loving that.
The compromise solution would be to use the the 90 degree pipes embedded in the foundation and make the water line seasonal. I would have to purge it like the sprinkler system in the cold months. There would be an accessible cutoff where the water tees off the main line with a purge valve. They could put some insulation around the water supply as an extra barrier. I'm a little perplexed on what the workshop GC was thinking when he suggested putting these 90 degree pipes in for this use. I think he didn't know anything about plumbing.

Here is a picture of the available pipes from the inside during construction. I don't recall how deep they run on the exterior exit but should be about 1.5 feet deep.
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The quote for the job without cutting up the workshop floor is $3700 and an additional $1500 to come up through the floor. A little more than I was hoping for, but not totally out of the ball park. I was hoping for more like $2000. I think I'm going to go with the seasonal solution. I have another plumber coming next week and a 3rd who is gathering information but might only do permitted work.
 

zc15

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Did you price out the sink during the initial build phase? I figure it would pry be similar to your expectations, but wasn't sure if there was any to be saved if it was included initially.
 
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B3D3G1

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Did you price out the sink during the initial build phase? I figure it would pry be similar to your expectations, but wasn't sure if there was any to be saved if it was included initially.

edit: I just reread your comment and realized you were asking about the initial build of the workshop.
A sink was on my wish list from the start and I see 1 early quote from one of the GCs I talked to with a $5000 line item for a cold water sink. This was pretty early on without knowing the build restrictions we would be up against. With the contractor I went with, I came to a decision point in the permitting on if this structure was to be permitted as a "Detached Garage" or "Accessory Dwelling Unit (ADU)". Everything was designed to work within and maximize the detached garage build standards and adding plumbing would have pushed us into the ADU territory and required some major changes to the way the foundation was constructed along with adding a lot of other restrictions on lot placement and size. I can't recall exact details but I think there some sort of insulation under the slab and the way the footers had to be fabricated. I can't recall the details because I didn't really understand them completely at the time but I understood price increase part.

I ordered a sink and faucet through Lowe's and told the plumber I would be providing it. He did say something kind of crazy like $400 to hook up the sink so I was planning to clarify that before moving forward with any work. Nothing is in writing at the moment and I was thinking of just having their work stop at the wall to save some further cost.

I was talking to my wife last night about the plumbing estimate and she reminded me that our studio building right next to the workshop has a less decorative kitchenette that I could use for clean up. I never think of going in there to use that sink so that might be the answer for messier things. The only options in the main house are either bathrooms or the kitchen and I've gotten away with using the kitchen sink so far. The studio has a kitchenette pieced together from cheap Ikea stuff with a plain/cheap stainless sink and a full bathroom I can use without having to worry about dirtying up the house bathrooms if I'm in the middle of a greasy project.

After thinking about it more last night, I cancelled my Lowe's order for the sink and I have pretty much decided not to move forward with adding plumbing. I'm still going to keep the appointment for the 2nd quote from a different plumber incase they come up with a better solution. The 3rd plumber got back to me and said they were not willing to do this work without a permit.
 
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B3D3G1

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I didn't do a whole lot in the work shop this weekend, but I got lot of other random tasks sorted around the house.

I had a new macerator pump toilet installed in our basement a month or so ago and the old mounting bolts didn't line up so the plumber only secured it with one stud. I went in there and drill new studs in the concrete floor and got everything lined up. Better to do it while it is new than have to fight with poop water later on.

I call our well pit a snake pit. I had to go down into the snake pit to hook up all the lines, tanks, and activate the pump. I saw 3 snakes staring at me from the corners and one pretty ominous snake skin hanging from above. It feels like an Indiana Jones set. Everything turned on without a hitch. The drain plug in the pump is a rust hole with barely any threads left but I got it to seal. One of these days I'll have to re-tap that hole.
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I also finished the garden beds with new dirt and the watering lines. We started with cardboard on the lowest level, split up a random hay bail we had hanging around from the previous home owner, then added all my yard waste compost (grass and leaves) from the last 2 years. After that, calculated we needed another 60 sqft of dirt to fill all 3 beds. Picked up about 70% top soil and 30% organic garden compost from a local nursery. I had to buy all of it in bags because I don't have a good way yet of removing my shell from my truck and it turned out to be 45 bags. I've been thinking about making a wood frame to be able to lift the truck cap off with the 2 post lift for occasions like this. Got the supply line hooked up with valve to turn off each individual bed if needed. Once the plants are in, I'lll run the drip tube and any extra drippers needed. When the driveway is complete, we'll probably fill the area around the beds with some gravel and extra flagstones we have laying around.
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I did find a little extra time to knock off the coat hooks in the shop. Not much too it other than a scrap piece of plywood and some 3 prong hooks. A little paint to make it look finished. Now I have a place for my mechanic's jump suit and work apron.
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B3D3G1

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The HVAC technician finally came out and took a look at my Mini-split. As a refresher, I failed to vacuum out the system successfully before releasing the refrigerant due to a stupid problem with not engaging the shrader valve on the service port. The technician did an acid test to make sure the system was not contaminated and that checked out fine. He pulled all the refrigerant and did a vacuum test and found a small leak in one of the connectors behind the indoor unit. After reflaring that, he charged up the system and were good to go. I have yet to really test it out as the building seems pretty well insulated. I still need to go back and install the decorative line covers on the exterior now that I know it's all good. It's supposed to drop down to freezing this weekend with 2 days of cold so I'll definitely be trying out the heat function.

I also planned and drew up a drill holder. This will hold my screwdriver, drill, driver, impact gun, and nailer with some shelfs behind the doors to hold all the batteries and some additional tools like the sawzal, multitool, and rotary tool. I'll also mount 2 battery chargers on the side. It's designed so the rolling tool cart can be opened without interfering with the hanging tools and allow the upper cabinet to open. I'll also have a slot cut out on the top so I rest the circular saw flat on the top. All the hanging tools will be upside down with space for them to hang with a battery installed.
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Since the weather is going to be bad this weekend and I can't do some of the yard chores planned, I'm hoping I can get a good start on the lower cabinet build and knock out the drill holder, all in the comfort of a heated workshop.
 
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B3D3G1

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It was a snowy Friday and Saturday here in Denver so I got some freedom from yard work. We got about 12 inches of snow. There are so many broken tree limbs laying around. We thought we got lucky but then noticed one of our mature peach trees had close to a half of it broken off which is a major bummer. I did get to try out the heater on the mini-split and I started sweating at one point until I figured out a good set point.

I worked on my lower cabinets and my drill holder. I was able to finish up the drill holder by the end of the weekend and I got the main carcass of the lower cabinets done. The concrete in this area seems fairly flat but I have leveling feet to fine tune it once I'm ready to fix it in place.
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I'm pretty happy with the drill holder. I still need to mount the battery charger on the side and fill the errant handle holes I drilled on one of the doors. Now I have place for all most of the battery power tools and batteries instead of throwing them on a random shelf.
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I'll start working on the drawers but I think I'm going take a look at my drawer heights now that I see the widths in real life. I think I might want a few extra shallow drawers. I'll play around with some cardboard drawer fronts to see what I like before I go into production mode. I'm planning on drawers with 3/4" sides and a 1/2" bottom cut in with a dado. For the top, I'm planning on a 3/4" birch with a polyacrylic finish and some sort of light hardware trim on the 2 exposed sides. Not too different than the drill press stand I made about a month ago.
 
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