Strouty
Well-known member
Looks great, I need to do some similar organizing, I made up a temporary Lista cabinet, but I need to do something that really fits the tooling better.
Tooling (Re)Organization
- Thread starter lilscorpion
- Start date
OP
lilscorpion
Well-known member
The only downside I’ve found is that occasionally I’ll clip a knuckle on an end mill reaching over it to get to one behind it. Not sure there’s any way to solve for that except adding space between and slowing down my hand movements. I never had the issue when I kept my tools in a listas though.
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1/2 Cup
Member Emeritus
lilscorpion well done sir, you have an awesome amount of tooling
Bob Heine
ALLIANCE MEMBER
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Very nice. That will be a joy to work at and have everything within easy reach.
OP
lilscorpion
Well-known member
Fab Station Organization
The key to optimizing a workflow is to establish a starting place. To do so, you really need to use a new space for a while to see how you’re going to use it. In this case - my new fabrication bench and it’s above shelving. This fold-away bench has become the most used bench in the shop for 1 reason and one reason only - I always, always, to fold it I have to clean it and I have to fold it in order to put the Jeep away…so it’s always clean…and the clean bench always gets used.

I did a little re-organizing of the adjoining wall this weekend. This wall has been reorganized like 5 times now and each time I get a little closer to optimized. I build new stand-offs for my MFT-Horses and found a way to mount the Dewalt horses to the wall just below them. I think this space can’t be optimized any more. Best Part is I can get one or both of them down easily as needed and put them away equally fast. Just last weekend I got one down, lightly sanded a scratched drawer front, shot a new finish coat of paint on it, and put everything away in less than 30 minutes. Awesome.

Months of use had turned the shelves into a littered mess of layout, fab, and painting tools. I keep the paint tools here because it’s closest to the driveway which is where i tend to spray most of my parts and, it’s right across from the air compressor. I had them all stuffed into a single shelf but getting at what I needed without knocking stuff on the floor was a pain so I made a pull out drawer-like thingy which gave me access to everything more easily.

The top plate allows the paint cups to sit elevated in such a way that I could put four of the bigger cups or smaller ones too if I want. The way they’re suspended, any paint that I were to get on the bottom of the cups wouldn’t allow them to stick to the bottom of the tray.

In one tray I have the four paints I keep on hand, the painting triangles, and the cleaner for my gun. For now I’ll keep the glue bottle there because it fits so nice but at some point I’ll give it it’s own spot on another tray.

I built a drawer which I’ll need to put an organizer in once I figure out exactly what’s going to be in it. For now it just gives me easier access to all the **** I’ve been keeping in the cubby above the bench.

An organization strategy that’s really caught on in my shop is workflow optimization using lean manufacturing techniques when it makes sense. Simplified, create a workspace that prevents you from hunting for tools and keeps the necessary ones right where you need them for when you need them. Most of you guys get the pain - “where the hell is my tape measure?!” Today is the day I solve that problem once and for all (until I come up with a new way to lose it).

I use the holes in the surface for bench dogs frequently so I needed a way to keep them from rolling around. I want to make a pull out drawer. Something to give me easy access to the front and back. I decide to make holders in the front holder so, in this case, the dogs are accessible from the front when the drawer is closed.

Simple system. Thru-drilled to the same 20mm size. The action of the cutter passing twice through the wood (one to cut, second time to retract) crates a snug but loose enough fit.

Another tool I use quite frequently is the bench plane. I’ve seen inclined bed-like storage solutions for planes before but, seeing as how I’m favoring simplicity at the moment, I had this neat little idea. I relief-cut this light duty piece of aluminum angle so I could bend the aluminum a little.

And shaped it to fit the plane.

Ok, first attempt was slightly oversized so I made the adjustment and cut two with the new measurements.

Bent one to match the plane tip angle using a set of pliers and then matched the other 3 using screws to hold them in place.

The plane can’t slide in any direction test is easy to access.

On the other aide of the drawer I made a box (like a real drawer) to keep the “frequently accessed tools”. I cut a piece of 1 1/8 Kaizen foam to fit and then became to layout and cut in the tools one at a time.

Some think it’s easier than it looks, some would argue it’s not. I seem to be having consistent success.

So here’s how it works - buy Kaizen foam sold by Fastcap. Lay the tool on the foam and trace it with a “long nosed pattern marker” sold by Fastcap.

You know you’re closer to success if the tracing of tool looks kinda like the tool you traced.

Set the depth of your Fastcap Tri-Blade Utility Knife to be at the depth you wish your tool to be recessed into the foam.

Now cut along the line keeping the blade vertical and be careful not to overshoot the line in the corners.

Then you dig your fingers in, wiggle, dig, wiggle, and pull. You’ll get it.

****. Out comes the foam (rarely) in one piece.


Fits like a glove. Now some of you are noticing that there’s a missing tool in the tray. See how awesome it is? I can see it too (it’s the knife I’m using to cut out the parts).

Though the part fits nicely, the bottom of the cutout rarely ends up flat and, in most cases, it ends up uneven. Knowing this was a problem I never would have starting using Kaizen foam but, since it’s not only me who it really bugs, Fastcap sells a hot knife kit (like my dad used to use for wood working) which has this round flat bottom tip which you can use to fix these imperfections.

Set the heat on medium and you and lightly touch the imperfections. The smell is fairly nasty so maybe don’t do this step inside like I did. After 15 minutes everyone in the family was cursing me and we had the widows wide open trying to get the smell out.

With the high-spots fixed, the measure now sits perfectly at the level had planned.

Since the tip is round, you can turn it up slightly and burn in near perfect every time finger access holes so you easily grip each tool.

One step closer to a more organized assembly table.

I like this kaizen foam and think I’ll try it on a few more projects before I get crazy; More to come.
The key to optimizing a workflow is to establish a starting place. To do so, you really need to use a new space for a while to see how you’re going to use it. In this case - my new fabrication bench and it’s above shelving. This fold-away bench has become the most used bench in the shop for 1 reason and one reason only - I always, always, to fold it I have to clean it and I have to fold it in order to put the Jeep away…so it’s always clean…and the clean bench always gets used.

I did a little re-organizing of the adjoining wall this weekend. This wall has been reorganized like 5 times now and each time I get a little closer to optimized. I build new stand-offs for my MFT-Horses and found a way to mount the Dewalt horses to the wall just below them. I think this space can’t be optimized any more. Best Part is I can get one or both of them down easily as needed and put them away equally fast. Just last weekend I got one down, lightly sanded a scratched drawer front, shot a new finish coat of paint on it, and put everything away in less than 30 minutes. Awesome.

Months of use had turned the shelves into a littered mess of layout, fab, and painting tools. I keep the paint tools here because it’s closest to the driveway which is where i tend to spray most of my parts and, it’s right across from the air compressor. I had them all stuffed into a single shelf but getting at what I needed without knocking stuff on the floor was a pain so I made a pull out drawer-like thingy which gave me access to everything more easily.

The top plate allows the paint cups to sit elevated in such a way that I could put four of the bigger cups or smaller ones too if I want. The way they’re suspended, any paint that I were to get on the bottom of the cups wouldn’t allow them to stick to the bottom of the tray.

In one tray I have the four paints I keep on hand, the painting triangles, and the cleaner for my gun. For now I’ll keep the glue bottle there because it fits so nice but at some point I’ll give it it’s own spot on another tray.

I built a drawer which I’ll need to put an organizer in once I figure out exactly what’s going to be in it. For now it just gives me easier access to all the **** I’ve been keeping in the cubby above the bench.

An organization strategy that’s really caught on in my shop is workflow optimization using lean manufacturing techniques when it makes sense. Simplified, create a workspace that prevents you from hunting for tools and keeps the necessary ones right where you need them for when you need them. Most of you guys get the pain - “where the hell is my tape measure?!” Today is the day I solve that problem once and for all (until I come up with a new way to lose it).

I use the holes in the surface for bench dogs frequently so I needed a way to keep them from rolling around. I want to make a pull out drawer. Something to give me easy access to the front and back. I decide to make holders in the front holder so, in this case, the dogs are accessible from the front when the drawer is closed.

Simple system. Thru-drilled to the same 20mm size. The action of the cutter passing twice through the wood (one to cut, second time to retract) crates a snug but loose enough fit.

Another tool I use quite frequently is the bench plane. I’ve seen inclined bed-like storage solutions for planes before but, seeing as how I’m favoring simplicity at the moment, I had this neat little idea. I relief-cut this light duty piece of aluminum angle so I could bend the aluminum a little.

And shaped it to fit the plane.

Ok, first attempt was slightly oversized so I made the adjustment and cut two with the new measurements.

Bent one to match the plane tip angle using a set of pliers and then matched the other 3 using screws to hold them in place.

The plane can’t slide in any direction test is easy to access.

On the other aide of the drawer I made a box (like a real drawer) to keep the “frequently accessed tools”. I cut a piece of 1 1/8 Kaizen foam to fit and then became to layout and cut in the tools one at a time.

Some think it’s easier than it looks, some would argue it’s not. I seem to be having consistent success.

So here’s how it works - buy Kaizen foam sold by Fastcap. Lay the tool on the foam and trace it with a “long nosed pattern marker” sold by Fastcap.

You know you’re closer to success if the tracing of tool looks kinda like the tool you traced.

Set the depth of your Fastcap Tri-Blade Utility Knife to be at the depth you wish your tool to be recessed into the foam.

Now cut along the line keeping the blade vertical and be careful not to overshoot the line in the corners.

Then you dig your fingers in, wiggle, dig, wiggle, and pull. You’ll get it.

****. Out comes the foam (rarely) in one piece.


Fits like a glove. Now some of you are noticing that there’s a missing tool in the tray. See how awesome it is? I can see it too (it’s the knife I’m using to cut out the parts).

Though the part fits nicely, the bottom of the cutout rarely ends up flat and, in most cases, it ends up uneven. Knowing this was a problem I never would have starting using Kaizen foam but, since it’s not only me who it really bugs, Fastcap sells a hot knife kit (like my dad used to use for wood working) which has this round flat bottom tip which you can use to fix these imperfections.

Set the heat on medium and you and lightly touch the imperfections. The smell is fairly nasty so maybe don’t do this step inside like I did. After 15 minutes everyone in the family was cursing me and we had the widows wide open trying to get the smell out.

With the high-spots fixed, the measure now sits perfectly at the level had planned.

Since the tip is round, you can turn it up slightly and burn in near perfect every time finger access holes so you easily grip each tool.

One step closer to a more organized assembly table.

I like this kaizen foam and think I’ll try it on a few more projects before I get crazy; More to come.
1/2 Cup
Member Emeritus
lilscorpion just awesome and thank you for the detailed explaination
Strouty
Well-known member
The foam is awesome, until you need to reconfigure, then it *****. Ask me how I know. 
I still love it and plan on using it again, it just hurts to have to start over. The issue that you have (Me too!) is that you don't want to do half assed jobs. Lean is technically all about fast and cheap, so a true lean shop would have made those drawers out of used cardboard boxes and duct tape.
I still love it and plan on using it again, it just hurts to have to start over. The issue that you have (Me too!) is that you don't want to do half assed jobs. Lean is technically all about fast and cheap, so a true lean shop would have made those drawers out of used cardboard boxes and duct tape.
OP
lilscorpion
Well-known member
The foam is awesome, until you need to reconfigure, then it *****. Ask me how I know.
I still love it and plan on using it again, it just hurts to have to start over. The issue that you have (Me too!) is that you don't want to do half assed jobs. Lean is technically all about fast and cheap, so a true lean shop would have made those drawers out of used cardboard boxes and duct tape.
Agreed but it’s less painful than having to reconfigure a drawer full of machined HDPE organizers!! I think it will work well for some drawers but I’ve already noticed that using it dramatically reduces how much I can fit in a drawer which means I’d need more drawers or foam store less stuff...which would completely negate all of the work I’ve done over the past year. The more I think about it, the more I’m conflicted.
Strouty
Well-known member
It is perfect for the workstations in a multiple process situation where time and money have a very specific relationship. I find that you have to apply it correctly or it is a waste of effort. I had a drawer that was setup well, but when I sold the cart, the foam wouldn’t fit anything else I owned.
It had two layers and fit very well, I tried to fit it somewhere else, but it was a waste of space. Took me hours to make and it looked like ***, but worked great.
It had two layers and fit very well, I tried to fit it somewhere else, but it was a waste of space. Took me hours to make and it looked like ***, but worked great.
Attachments
gemniii
Well-known member
Re: Fab Station Organization
Does the Jeep ever get parked outside overnight because of a project on the bench?
All of your work is just amazing.The key to optimizing a workflow is to establish a starting place. To do so, you really need to use a new space for a while to see how you’re going to use it. In this case - my new fabrication bench and it’s above shelving. This fold-away bench has become the most used bench in the shop for 1 reason and one reason only - I always, always, to fold it I have to clean it and I have to fold it in order to put the Jeep away…so it’s always clean…and the clean bench always gets used.

Does the Jeep ever get parked outside overnight because of a project on the bench?
OP
lilscorpion
Well-known member
Re: Fab Station Organization
Thank you and yes. If I get mid project and the project spans days, I won’t break down the garage and pull the Jeep in. It can stay in the driveway overnight. That being said, I’ve learned that most projects break down into fairly atomic units of work which I can contain to a weekend (or day). Goal I’ve set is when the weekend (or days off) is over, I clean up, I put everything away, and I pull the Jeep(s) back in. Good for the Jeep and nice to have a fresh space to work in the following weekend.
Thank you and yes. If I get mid project and the project spans days, I won’t break down the garage and pull the Jeep in. It can stay in the driveway overnight. That being said, I’ve learned that most projects break down into fairly atomic units of work which I can contain to a weekend (or day). Goal I’ve set is when the weekend (or days off) is over, I clean up, I put everything away, and I pull the Jeep(s) back in. Good for the Jeep and nice to have a fresh space to work in the following weekend.
OP
lilscorpion
Well-known member
It is perfect for the workstations in a multiple process situation where time and money have a very specific relationship. I find that you have to apply it correctly or it is a waste of effort. I had a drawer that was setup well, but when I sold the cart, the foam wouldn’t fit anything else I owned.
It had two layers and fit very well, I tried to fit it somewhere else, but it was a waste of space. Took me hours to make and it looked like ***, but worked great.
This look nice. Perfect for a tool cart. Guess one up side is the tools stay put. No rolling around in the drawer.
beelsr
Well-known member
the foam is great. I don't use it for "storage" in the tool chest because of the density issue but it works great for task/job specific setups. Like on a toolcart next to the mill. I've used it in setting up production shops so that each cell has a set of tools so they don't have to go hunting simple tools down to fix something - like every place needs their own deadblow hammer to set th epiece in the parallels or an alcohol or lacquer sprayer and a box of wipes. and a tape measure. and an 11-in-1. and dykes, etc...
The next level is to paint the foam so that the color jumps out at you when a tool is not in its spot.
The next level after that is to start watching fastcap's youtube channel and then realize the sun is coming up...
The next level is to paint the foam so that the color jumps out at you when a tool is not in its spot.
The next level after that is to start watching fastcap's youtube channel and then realize the sun is coming up...
Strouty
Well-known member
I used the foam for tools in my utility truck toolboxes. We would weld in craftsman boxes and then the foam would keep the tools in place and let you know if one was missing. I would love to have an entire toolbox with all the drawers setup this way, but it would be expensive and I would need a couple more boxes.
OP
lilscorpion
Well-known member
Strouty said:
I think the foam will work really well for some kind of organization and not ideal for others. Thus far, for little drawers like this it’s sweet. I haven’t tried a bigger drawer yet.
beelsr said:the foam is great. I don't use it for "storage" in the tool chest because of the density issue but it works great for task/job specific setups. Like on a toolcart next to the mill. I've used it in setting up production shops so that each cell has a set of tools so they don't have to go hunting simple tools down to fix something - like every place needs their own deadblow hammer to set th epiece in the parallels or an alcohol or lacquer sprayer and a box of wipes. and a tape measure. and an 11-in-1. and dykes, etc...
The next level is to paint the foam so that the color jumps out at you when a tool is not in its spot.
The next level after that is to start watching fastcap's youtube channel and then realize the sun is coming up...
I’m thinking of some of my setups as “workstations just like you’ve described. Neat idea on painting inside the shadow. What kind of paint will stick to this stuff?
Just subscribed to Fastcaps channel. I’ve seen a few. The owners infomercial-like attitude is sometimes too much.
beelsr
Well-known member
paint: the stuff I painted wasn't from fastcap, it was maybe 10+ years ago but i used some plastic model paint i had around (I had lots. lots...). fastcap's foam is polyethylene and flexes a bit so an exterior acrylic should work. maybe the krylon plastic paint works. Or you could get some gaff tape and stick it in the cutout. or call fastcap and ask someone there - they actually do answer the phone.
I think they make white foam too. So you could peel a single layer of the white and cut through 1 layer deeper in the black and stick the white piece in the bottom to bring it to the proper depth.
yer gunna love this product!
PA can be a little too much but i'm usually hitting "L" to skip past the intro and closing the video before he goes into the product promos...
he has a personal channel that has more "how to lean" stuff rather than "this product will tie your boots and bake your cookies for you".
download his 2 second lean ebook. It's worth at least 10x what you pay for it.
I think they make white foam too. So you could peel a single layer of the white and cut through 1 layer deeper in the black and stick the white piece in the bottom to bring it to the proper depth.
yer gunna love this product!
PA can be a little too much but i'm usually hitting "L" to skip past the intro and closing the video before he goes into the product promos...
he has a personal channel that has more "how to lean" stuff rather than "this product will tie your boots and bake your cookies for you".
download his 2 second lean ebook. It's worth at least 10x what you pay for it.
Was there a discount available from them mentioned at one point in this thread or maybe your previous Organization thread?
Never mind I found it. Placed my order over the phone rather than online and got a nice discount. Seems backwards from the way the world is spinning. But I wanted to confirm that my items were in stock and would ship rather than back order. Worked out good for me.
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OP
lilscorpion
Well-known member
Sorry, I thought I responded but it turns out that I never hit submit on the post. Glad it worked out. I've saved a ton at ahturf over the years and don't shop anywhere else now for hardware. Good lock on your project.
OP
lilscorpion
Well-known member
Almost every time I setup to machine multiples of any part, I always find myself frustrated with the material stops I have. The one pictured below is a cheapie I purchased from Enco many years ago. Though these cheapie stops have bugged me for years, i never seem to remember to do something about it until I’m in the middle of something. In preparation for an organization project I have planned for next weekend, I decided that i was worth taking a day and building a stop setup that was a lot more flexible and far easier to use. I started by machining two different lengths of arms/stops which will attach to vises. The arms are then drilled and tapped so the stainless rod can be locked in place with a knurled set screw. This is the short version and will be the most used.
For parts that need to set in the vise in such a way where the smaller arms won’t reach, a longer arm will be necessary. Since I’ve had the machine, this has only happened a few times. Might as well have the arms if I need them instead of need them and not have them.
Here’s the arms machined, cleaned, and ready to go.
Arms attach to a machined piece of aluminum rod that was machined to auto-locate into the back of each vise and attach using the 1/2 threaded journals designed for ID clamping (which I never do).
A stainless rod can be loaded into any of the holes in each arm accomplishing the necessary offset required to hit the material when loaded in the vise.
If I need to machine the end of the part, the arm can be moved out of the way after the material is clamped into the vise.
Having arms on both ends of each vise enables a few different scenarios - (1) 2 parts in one vise or (2) two ops in one vise by referencing a part with one atop first and then the second stop later. Having this flexibility combined with CNC I can spend less time loading parts and let the machine do more per cycle.
The longer rear rod allow longer parts to be located. With 2 vises, I can hang on to, locate, and machine really long parts. If you’ve followed along, I machined the 80/20 beams for my folding bench a while back and they were 6-feet long. If I need to, I could make a longer rod that allows me to locate a part even further out. Given where this sits against the wall, I could make one 18-inches longer if I wanted to. Since the rear rods are fairly easy to make, I’ll hold off on making one until I really need one…mostly because I don’t want to store it.
I can use any configuration of arms as needed in less than a few minutes. As far as design goes, the only thing I would have changed in hind-sight is how close the two inner arms are. The 90* allen wrench just barely fits so it’s slightly clumsy to get the second arm attached. I’ll use it for a while and see if it bugs me. If it does, I can simply remove 1/4-inch from the rods to create more clearance.
It may not matter because I don’t need to completely remove the inner arms when not in use.
Here’s a part for an up-coming project I’m fiddling with mocked up as an example. This part will be machined on both ends and then have a series of countersunk holes machined in an array inside the part. I always setup my fixtures so that a part can be relocated back into the setup after it’s removed (because tweaking is just a part of the process). I’ll locate the blank using the unmachined rear part of the blank (left stop attached to the other vise) and then machine both ends and do the drill and chamfer work. Once the part is completely machined, I’ll locate the right stop off of the finished profile and then lower it out of the way and have it just in case.
Previously I’d wrap up a project like this and then throw all the parts into a drawer (which I now have a lot of). I’m attempting to turn over a new leaf and organize AS it put parts into a drawer. I used 1 1/8-inch kaizen foam for this drawer and cut in the parts one at a time using the process shown in a previous post. I still need to cut in the tools and smaller parts but it’s a great start.
This is the second drawer I’ve used the Kaizen foam in and I’m starting to develop an opinion. I like it in situations like this because it leaves me feeling super organized. I’m also finding that I’m in no way optimizing the storage capacity of the drawer (aka lots wasted space). In some drawers the hyper organization is worth and others not so much. In this case, it works.
For parts that need to set in the vise in such a way where the smaller arms won’t reach, a longer arm will be necessary. Since I’ve had the machine, this has only happened a few times. Might as well have the arms if I need them instead of need them and not have them.
Here’s the arms machined, cleaned, and ready to go.
Arms attach to a machined piece of aluminum rod that was machined to auto-locate into the back of each vise and attach using the 1/2 threaded journals designed for ID clamping (which I never do).
A stainless rod can be loaded into any of the holes in each arm accomplishing the necessary offset required to hit the material when loaded in the vise.
If I need to machine the end of the part, the arm can be moved out of the way after the material is clamped into the vise.
Having arms on both ends of each vise enables a few different scenarios - (1) 2 parts in one vise or (2) two ops in one vise by referencing a part with one atop first and then the second stop later. Having this flexibility combined with CNC I can spend less time loading parts and let the machine do more per cycle.
The longer rear rod allow longer parts to be located. With 2 vises, I can hang on to, locate, and machine really long parts. If you’ve followed along, I machined the 80/20 beams for my folding bench a while back and they were 6-feet long. If I need to, I could make a longer rod that allows me to locate a part even further out. Given where this sits against the wall, I could make one 18-inches longer if I wanted to. Since the rear rods are fairly easy to make, I’ll hold off on making one until I really need one…mostly because I don’t want to store it.
I can use any configuration of arms as needed in less than a few minutes. As far as design goes, the only thing I would have changed in hind-sight is how close the two inner arms are. The 90* allen wrench just barely fits so it’s slightly clumsy to get the second arm attached. I’ll use it for a while and see if it bugs me. If it does, I can simply remove 1/4-inch from the rods to create more clearance.
It may not matter because I don’t need to completely remove the inner arms when not in use.
Here’s a part for an up-coming project I’m fiddling with mocked up as an example. This part will be machined on both ends and then have a series of countersunk holes machined in an array inside the part. I always setup my fixtures so that a part can be relocated back into the setup after it’s removed (because tweaking is just a part of the process). I’ll locate the blank using the unmachined rear part of the blank (left stop attached to the other vise) and then machine both ends and do the drill and chamfer work. Once the part is completely machined, I’ll locate the right stop off of the finished profile and then lower it out of the way and have it just in case.
Previously I’d wrap up a project like this and then throw all the parts into a drawer (which I now have a lot of). I’m attempting to turn over a new leaf and organize AS it put parts into a drawer. I used 1 1/8-inch kaizen foam for this drawer and cut in the parts one at a time using the process shown in a previous post. I still need to cut in the tools and smaller parts but it’s a great start.
This is the second drawer I’ve used the Kaizen foam in and I’m starting to develop an opinion. I like it in situations like this because it leaves me feeling super organized. I’m also finding that I’m in no way optimizing the storage capacity of the drawer (aka lots wasted space). In some drawers the hyper organization is worth and others not so much. In this case, it works.
Strouty
Well-known member
Looks good, I too need to make some stops, I think it would be a great project for me as a newb. Kaizen foam or any foam always looks beautiful, but you have hit the nail on the head, it wastes space almost always. I do like it for things that are a “set”, this way you know when a piece is missing, but I would need two or three times the drawers to fit everything, then I would have to take a year off to cut all the foam or mortgage the shop to have the fancy stuff cut after scanning all the tools. I am planning on using it for my screwdriver drawer and the drawer I use for socket extensions, I think the foam can actually improve storage for those types of things.
OP
lilscorpion
Well-known member
Yes, and it's disappointing that you can't be hyper-organized in a "real shop". The dream has always been to have one of those shops like you see in nascar or open wheel racing. The ones where you see 15 immaculately positioned Snap-on professional chests all positioned around a fabrication table with no machines or tools in sight...because they're all in another room where messes can be contained and cleaned up without impacting the space where it all comes together. All of those boxes have tools that have been shadow-boxed to fit in their own place in their own drawer in their own box enabling the user to know exactly where to go (down to the inch) to find the medium hose clamp pliers.
I have a few types of drawers I play to use the foam in which should give me a good sample of full spectrum use. By the time I'm done I should have a fairly good idea when I should and shouldn't use Kaizen foam. I'm close now but I think it's worth the effort to do a few more before I'll lock in my opinion.
I just wish the HDPE inserts were easier and less expensive to make. For socket and screwdriver organizers they're amazing. For more complicated tools like air tools it's too difficult and expensive. Maybe I need some cleanable anti-skid mat like they sell for snapon cabinets. Know where to get some in bulk?
Strouty
Well-known member
I have not found anything that compares to the snap on liner, it is thin, yet still molds to the tool that sits on it. I know people were using yoga mats or other material like that, but it is thicker. The snap on stuff is expensive, one was free, after I bought the tool box..........
OP
lilscorpion
Well-known member
I tried some of the yoga mat stuff...meh, not nearly the same (enough). Surprised the SnapOn OEM threads haven’t uncovered who makes them. if I could find it, I’d buy a roll and line most of my drawers.
Stuart in MN
Well-known member
I found some closed cell kneeling pads in a dollar store a while back (like you'd use to protect your knees when working on something on the floor or out in the garden) that I intend on using for tool cutouts. They're about 1/2" thick and around 10" x 18". They had them in several colors as well. It may be worth looking for something similar in your area.
beelsr
Well-known member
https://www.ebay.com/sch/mtryan33/m.html
When i bought liner from this guy on ebay 5-6 years ago, people said it was the OEM for snapon's liner. JONCO or JOECO or something like that. search will find details if you really want to. I've never seen snapon liner in person but this stuff is great. I've been completely happy with what I got. The labels look different now but you can PM the guy to make sure you're getting the right stuff.
My father-in-law is a drawer slammer and nothing moves. wrenches will fall off the rails and 30+mm sockets will tip over, pliers slide off the rail but nothing moves that's on a liner.
Other liners would shift under the tools and it was weird because heavier tools would have the liner shift more. But even in drawers of punches or hammers or anything really, it stays in place and the tools stay in place, too. And if it's something I haven't used in months, it's stuck to the liner but there's no residue or pulling apart of the lining. just perfect. except i'd really like it in white or a light grey so things would be easier to see.
When i bought liner from this guy on ebay 5-6 years ago, people said it was the OEM for snapon's liner. JONCO or JOECO or something like that. search will find details if you really want to. I've never seen snapon liner in person but this stuff is great. I've been completely happy with what I got. The labels look different now but you can PM the guy to make sure you're getting the right stuff.
My father-in-law is a drawer slammer and nothing moves. wrenches will fall off the rails and 30+mm sockets will tip over, pliers slide off the rail but nothing moves that's on a liner.
Other liners would shift under the tools and it was weird because heavier tools would have the liner shift more. But even in drawers of punches or hammers or anything really, it stays in place and the tools stay in place, too. And if it's something I haven't used in months, it's stuck to the liner but there's no residue or pulling apart of the lining. just perfect. except i'd really like it in white or a light grey so things would be easier to see.
Strouty
Well-known member
That raptor grab stuff looks exactly like my stuff. The thing that I never see is the proper widths, snap on sells it in 30" widths. Would work for narrow drawers, but not the big ones.
beelsr
Well-known member
I think it was 24" that I got. which may be how he differentiates it?
OP
lilscorpion
Well-known member
Interesting stuff. 24” widths would work well for me since my drawers are almost that. Is the stuff you guys are looking at a mat or is it mesh? Can’t tell.
beelsr
Well-known member
i think he sells both but the mat is the "good stuff". i used the mesh (cheaper) under pliers racks and other drawers where "motion control by the liner" wasn't important.
OP
lilscorpion
Well-known member
beelsr
Well-known member
yep. tape measure, framing square and an olfa snap-blade knife. and bob's your uncle. unless he's your father-in-law like mine.
Strouty
Well-known member
The mesh is not cool, make sure to get the mat, I even tried to hot glue the mesh, but it is terrible. When I bought all my Lista cabinets, that stuff was in almost every drawer, I tossed all of it, the mechanics had zip ties trying to hold it in place and it still moved around.
OP
lilscorpion
Well-known member
yep. tape measure, framing square and an olfa snap-blade knife. and bob's your uncle. unless he's your father-in-law like mine.
Totally off topic but I had to look up "Bob's your uncle". As I get older I trying hard to also get to wiser. According to Wikipedia -
The origins are uncertain, but a common theory is that the expression arose after Conservative Prime Minister Robert "Bob" Cecil appointed his nephew Arthur Balfour as Chief Secretary for Ireland in 1887, an act which was apparently both surprising and unpopular. Whatever other qualifications Balfour might have had, "Bob's your uncle" was seen as the conclusive one.
The unfortunately consequence of using pre-clear coated plywood for the drawer bottoms is that it's slick as hell. Does the liner have the same grip on both sides?
beelsr
Well-known member
that's funny. i knew that at one time because I need to look things like that up too.
But as _I_ get older....
I think it's unisex as per stickiness, certainly feels that way to the touch...
But as _I_ get older....
I think it's unisex as per stickiness, certainly feels that way to the touch...
Strouty
Well-known member
The snap on stuff seems the same on both sides, I will have to order some of the eBay stuff to compare it. Basically anything you set on it gets kind of stuck to it. The stuff doesn’t slide around at all in the drawers like some of the other ****. You can see how it indents to the tool, of course when you take away the tool it comes back to flat after a bit.
If you have perfectly round things laid down, they will roll, but that is true with anything but magnets, clips, and foam cut outs.
If you have perfectly round things laid down, they will roll, but that is true with anything but magnets, clips, and foam cut outs.
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thin_concrete
Well-known member
This is such a great thread - I’ve spent the last few hours going through it and jotting down notes on things I’d like to do in the spring when I can finally rearrange the garage. I find the coolest thing about GJ is how different people address the same issues/problems. I learned more than a few things reading this thread.
The snap on stuff seems the same on both sides, I will have to order some of the eBay stuff to compare it. Basically anything you set on it gets kind of stuck to it. The stuff doesn’t slide around at all in the drawers like some of the other ****. You can see how it indents to the tool, of course when you take away the tool it comes back to flat after a bit.
If you have perfectly round things laid down, they will roll, but that is true with anything but magnets, clips, and foam cut outs.
If you are looking for a near perfect match to SnapOn Drawer Liner in wide width and length for cut to fit order the EPPCO Drawer Liner off of Amazon. It is inexpensive, durable, easy to clean, and holds tools as it is “sticky” but doesn’t really collect dust. I have had this for years and use it in a machine shop and wood shop. Super inexpensive and being able to cut to fit using a square and razor blade is a huge plus!
Sent from my iPhone using The Garage Journal mobile app
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Strouty
Well-known member
If the raptor grab stuff is similar, it is a much better deal. They also offer a few colors. I emailed them about sizes and I ordered the black from eBay. I guess I will know after it arrives.
OP
lilscorpion
Well-known member
I’ll wait until you get your order since you have the snapon stuff to compare to.