Tools from the old world
- Thread starter Monte
- Start date
Spongebob89
Well-known member
Hello,
do you know where can I find an old used RPM Indicator like this in the below image. There was any good brand back in this time?
do you know where can I find an old used RPM Indicator like this in the below image. There was any good brand back in this time?
Thanks Monte.These are usually made by Orbis
mobiledynamics
Well-known member
Where are Laser tools made. I specifically have my eyes on this
www.lasertools.co.uk
Laser Tools 7865 Twin Function Brake Pin Punch Set 3pc
Laser Tools 7865 A set of specially designed pin punches, particularly suited to use on vehicle brake pad pins where the pins are a tight fit and the ends...
four.cycle
Well-known member
Spongebob89 said:
F. Chandler, Boston, MA / speed indicator / patent 282067 Jul 31 1883 Charles H. Fowler /
George W. Church Co., 109 Fulton St., New York, NY / speed indicator / patent 527207 Oct 9 1894 William Lang /
Connecticut Cutlery Co., Naucatuck, CT / pocket knives, speed indicator /
Tabor Mfg. Co., New York, NY / Speed Indicator / patent 325991 Sep 8 1885 Harris Tabor /
L.S. Starrett Co., 121 Crescent St., Athol, MA 01331-1915 / https://www.starrett.com/ / est. 1880 / patent http://alloy-artifacts.org/other-makers-p3.html#starrett / https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/ls-starrett-co-and-not-a-vise.391577/ /
CGarage
Well-known member
Where are Laser tools made. I specifically have my eyes on this
Laser Tools 7865 Twin Function Brake Pin Punch Set 3pc
Laser Tools 7865 A set of specially designed pin punches, particularly suited to use on vehicle brake pad pins where the pins are a tight fit and the ends...
I believe Taiwan. I have a few items from Laser and it was marked Taiwan. Nicely made.
That's cool, Weras aren't made in Germany for a while now.Also found this Format screwdriver made by Wera.
@Eone While most others said your Format wrenches might be Stahlwille, I honestly doubt it. The only Stahlwille thing about them is the "hollowed" out Beam. On the other hand, the finish looks wrong, Stahlwille usually engraved the sizes in the past, only recently they added them in the casting. The shape of the open End does also look wrong to me. All examples of Stahlwille wrenches I could find, have a very distinct, consistent geometry, while yours are a little rounder and less consistent.
Sadly, I don´t know the OEM either. Finish, and the font of the "GERMANY" look very Gedore to me, the shape of the Box Ends, and the fact that they are OEM, I think WGB might also be possible.
I think your Würth spanners could also be Heyco made, rather than Belzer, comparing them to the Heyco Maxline wrenches.
Sadly, I don´t know the OEM either. Finish, and the font of the "GERMANY" look very Gedore to me, the shape of the Box Ends, and the fact that they are OEM, I think WGB might also be possible.
I think your Würth spanners could also be Heyco made, rather than Belzer, comparing them to the Heyco Maxline wrenches.
Spongebob89
Well-known member
Electrical stuff made in Austria from PCE and ABL
Hi,
there is any link of these products?
We assumed Stahlwille but not 100% sure. BTW thanks for your opinion.
mobiledynamics
Well-known member
Not really from the Old World but my Facom E Torx ratcheting set is finally being shipped. Can't wait to add it to the stash
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ShaunTheToolMan
New member
I found this interesting set of Bär brand offset needle nose that were made in West Germany at a local thrift store. I couldn't find much information about the company, but they feel well made.
senlow
Well-known member
I have one just like the one in the pic. . . Unfortunately, I don't know anything about it.
I found this interesting set of Bär brand offset needle nose that were made in West Germany at a local thrift store. I couldn't find much information about the company, but they feel well made.
Adam in Weatherford
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mobiledynamics
Well-known member
Got my Laser Punch. It's laser embossed design in England or something to that effect - don't have it in front of me.
There is no COO - same with the Facom Etorx ratchet set in it. I cannot find nary a marking of COO.
There is no COO - same with the Facom Etorx ratchet set in it. I cannot find nary a marking of COO.
Got 3 little thingy, new old stock items, produced in West Germany. Elora 1/2" 26 mm 6pt and Elora 3/8" 19mm I got it for free. Bought Hazet deep wall socket 3/8" 10mm for around USD 4.67.
Attachments
The shown window scraper, Handy MK2 manufactured by Jydsk Barberblade-Fabrik A/S in Denmark, could be about 30 years old (definitely more than 20). I was somewhat surprised to find that not only is the company still in business but the same model is still being made (and spare blades are widely available).
Now for something completely different. I was able to find a set of 1/2" impact sockets in metric sizes by Toptul for a reasonable price. As for SAE sizes, Toptul makes them, both long-reach and normal, but no one seems to sell them in EU
What would you suggest as an alternative (not Chinese but not super expensive either, usage is infrequent)?
Now for something completely different. I was able to find a set of 1/2" impact sockets in metric sizes by Toptul for a reasonable price. As for SAE sizes, Toptul makes them, both long-reach and normal, but no one seems to sell them in EU
What would you suggest as an alternative (not Chinese but not super expensive either, usage is infrequent)?I think you can find NOS Elora SAE socket setThe shown window scraper, Handy MK2 manufactured by Jydsk Barberblade-Fabrik A/S in Denmark, could be about 30 years old (definitely more than 20). I was somewhat surprised to find that not only is the company still in business but the same model is still being made (and spare blades are widely available).
Now for something completely different. I was able to find a set of 1/2" impact sockets in metric sizes by Toptul for a reasonable price. As for SAE sizes, Toptul makes them, both long-reach and normal, but no one seems to sell them in EU
Dave455
Well-known member
For impact sockets I tend to favour either KoKen (made in Japan) or Deltec (made in England).Now for something completely different. I was able to find a set of 1/2" impact sockets in metric sizes by Toptul for a reasonable price. As for SAE sizes, Toptul makes them, both long-reach and normal, but no one seems to sell them in EU
KoKen are excellent, and offer nice sets in steel boxes. Metric and SAE are available. I’ve used these for some years and they last well. I’m sure they will have an importer or dealer in Finland
Deltec are also excellent, but are geared to industrial customers so tend to offer less sets. The prices are not loaded if you buy individually though. They offer Metric, SAE, Whitworth, 6 point, 12 point, square, bi square, regular depth, semi deep, deep - pretty much anything really!
Deltec also last well and are pretty much my “go to” now. They’re used by a lot of British industrial customers, and on the railways. They will take heavy usage, but are quite affordable. If they don’t have an importer in Finland I’m sure they will supply direct!
Spongebob89
Well-known member
Hello,
I want to buy a mafel cordless drill but it has two models where the one is called impact (i think is hammer and not impact drill). A guy has told me that the simple drills have more precision on drilling holes than hammer drill but I am not sure that this assumption is right. If the hammer option on a drill has no impact on his functionality, then why companies make always two models where by the way the price is the same?
Cordless Impact Drill Driver ASB 18 in the T-MAX
Cordless Impact Drill Driver ASB 18 PURE in the T-MAX | Cordless Impact Drill Driver ASB 18 PURE in the T-MAX | 91C902
To overcome the toughest challenges, we have given the new-generation A 18 and ASB 18 an especially rugged specification and extra power.Its impact drill function makes the ASB 18 a genuine all-rounder.The upgraded PowerTanks for our cordless tools featu…produkte.mafell.de
Cordless Drill Driver A 18 in the T-MAX
Cordless Drill Driver A 18 PURE in the T-MAX | Cordless Drill Driver A 18 PURE in the T-MAX | 91C802
To overcome the toughest challenges, we have given the new-generation A 18 and ASB 18 an especially rugged specification and extra power.The upgraded PowerTanks for our cordless tools feature advanced processor-controlled battery technology. A key advant…
Anyone to know about this?
neophyte
Well-known member
The hammer function usually ads a set of toothed gears within the gear housing.
The chuck arbor, stead of being fixed in place, can move forward and backward along with the drill chuck.
Switching on the hammer drill function usually involves releasing a stop that prevents the Arbor and chuck from moving backwards and forwards, which allows pressure on the chuck to force the chick backwards, so the tooothed set of gears interact, creating the hammering function.
On older corded drills, the hammer function was sometimes just an extra “box”, attacked to the front of the gear housing.
On other drill models, the gear housing is a different part number, and possibly larger than a non hammering version of the drill.
The hammer action ads extra parts, complexity, and weight.
Since the drill chuck and arbor have to be able to move forward and backward, there is usually a tiny bit of extra play perpendicular to the arbor, which can get looser over time as the hammer function is used.
Only one of the Mafell drills listed has a weight listed.
On cordless drills, the gear housing is usually way mire compact than regular corded drills (usually with smaller gears and more plastic).
I’ve never used a cordless hammer drill enough to kill a gear box or wear one out.
The Mafell cordless drills used to be rebranded Metabo drills, with a few changes, but I don’t know if the drills still are.
On the Metabo drills, and a lot of other cordless tools nowadays, the gear housing wasn’t considered repairable, and the entire assembly would simply get replaced if something broke.
dutchgray
Well-known member
I have one Deltic impact socket, a deep 30mm 3/4" drive that is permanently attached to a 1/2" adapter and used on an cordless impact wrench for tightening the stanchion foundation bolts on the steel frame buildings I work on sometimes (I do the concrete work so they get used to build the bolt set up on the template, then after concrete remove the nuts, remove the template, pull the waxed cones out, nuts back on, use a pipe to wobble the bolts around so they move so the stanchion can be bumped into alignment)For impact sockets I tend to favour either KoKen (made in Japan) or Deltec (made in England).
KoKen are excellent, and offer nice sets in steel boxes. Metric and SAE are available. I’ve used these for some years and they last well. I’m sure they will have an importer or dealer in Finland
Deltec are also excellent, but are geared to industrial customers so tend to offer less sets. The prices are not loaded if you buy individually though. They offer Metric, SAE, Whitworth, 6 point, 12 point, square, bi square, regular depth, semi deep, deep - pretty much anything really!
Deltec also last well and are pretty much my “go to” now. They’re used by a lot of British industrial customers, and on the railways. They will take heavy usage, but are quite affordable. If they don’t have an importer in Finland I’m sure they will supply direct!
So low torque but I need the length of socket broach.
Deltic, in true British tool company fashion a good product that hardly anyone knows about.
Fretters
Well-known member
Hammer & non-hammer, by the looks of it? Merely extra functionality, in the hammer version. It comes at the cost of extra weight & length over the non-hammer version.
upgrading
Well-known member
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Nice color selection
Nice color selection
CGarage
Well-known member
storage bins from Aldi
My favorite grocery store in Europe and US.
What was the Eur price for this?
Reed Prince
Well-known member
A while ago I decided to try to find screwdrivers that really fit the combination slotted/something else screws I find in electrical terminals. Long story short, nothing I encounter in the USA appears to be slotted/phillips, DIN rail components are slotted/pozidriv, and American electrical outlets more often than not are slotted/square and are best engaged by my lone Milwaukee.
During the process of figuring this out I discovered and became a big fan of Felo's E-Slim series of drivers. Their small handles can be spun quicker and easier than standard handles, which are optimized for higher torque applications. They also have the nicest cushioning and all the shafts have the end of the insulation flush with the tip.
During the process of figuring this out I discovered and became a big fan of Felo's E-Slim series of drivers. Their small handles can be spun quicker and easier than standard handles, which are optimized for higher torque applications. They also have the nicest cushioning and all the shafts have the end of the insulation flush with the tip.
Dave455
Well-known member
I must admit I like Facom “Borneo” drivers for these combination screws. They offer slotted / Phillips or slotted / Pozidriv.A while ago I decided to try to find screwdrivers that really fit the combination slotted/something else screws I find in electrical terminals. Long story short, nothing I encounter in the USA appears to be slotted/phillips, DIN rail components are slotted/pozidriv, and American electrical outlets more often than not are slotted/square and are best engaged by my lone Milwaukee.
During the process of figuring this out I discovered and became a big fan of Felo's E-Slim series of drivers. Their small handles can be spun quicker and easier than standard handles, which are optimized for higher torque applications. They also have the nicest cushioning and all the shafts have the end of the insulation flush with the tip.
The drivers with the flush insulation are the way to go if you want insulated drivers. Wiha offer theirs with both types of combination tip too, though personally I’d want such similar tips colour coded differently!
A while ago I decided to try to find screwdrivers that really fit the combination slotted/something else screws I find in electrical terminals. Long story short, nothing I encounter in the USA appears to be slotted/phillips, DIN rail components are slotted/pozidriv, and American electrical outlets more often than not are slotted/square and are best engaged by my lone Milwaukee.
During the process of figuring this out I discovered and became a big fan of Felo's E-Slim series of drivers. Their small handles can be spun quicker and easier than standard handles, which are optimized for higher torque applications. They also have the nicest cushioning and all the shafts have the end of the insulation flush with the tip.
I use the Wiha Xeno, or slotted / phillips, and find they work great on the screws on US outlets and switches. You are mostly using the slotted function to do the work, but the phillips portion keeps it centered in the slot. I see them in your picture, so I'm surprised that you weren't happy with them. OTOH, this is GJ, so maybe I shouldn't be surprised. Wiha also makes a slotted pozi combo; I haven't tried that yet, but I'm happy with the Xeno so I don't guess I will.
Does your Milwaukee have an ECX tip?
HannibalLecter
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- Aug 26, 2023
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SKS Germany bike tire levers, made in Germany
Reed Prince
Well-known member
Reed Prince
Well-known member
I bought one of the new PB Swiss bit kits from DRPD this week that includes their version of slotted/pozidriv. The longer bits were an extra purchase.
jonesg
Well-known member
wondering why does it have CE (china export) stamped on it.Electrical stuff made in Austria from PCE and ABL
Reed Prince
Well-known member
jonesg
Well-known member
its the safety cert issued by chinese gmnt , the chinese version of UL but a lot easier, cheaper to procure.
Also called "mark of the beast".
the stickers can be bought on aliexpress cheap.
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