toolin' around
Well-known member
Yeah, I always assumed the slight gap was for stripping wire... at least that’s how I always used them!!!
Tools from the old world
- Thread starter Monte
- Start date
Yeah, I always assumed the slight gap was for stripping wire... at least that’s how I always used them!!!
Reed Prince
Well-known member
My Erem tools. Not a very large collection, but enough to do what I need to do.
HenryAZ
MEMBER EMERITUS
RS Crimpers. Made by Pressmaster, Sweden.
Silverline dies are stepped (not symmetrical) so the crimp connectors have to be oriented one way only.
Pressmaster are not stepped, so I think connectors can be inserted either way.
I believe stepped makes a better connection. One (tighter) crimp on the connector insulation over the bare wire, and a less severe crimp on the connector insulation over the wire's insulation, which provides a strain relief.
I've got a set of the Williams-branded version of these screwdrivers at work. So far I've gotten 2 years of use out of them and they are holding up very well! I wouldn't hesitate to buy another set.
I would think so too. Was surprised that the Pressmaster isn't stepped. Got to assume that Pressmaster know more about crimpers than Silverline though.
pizza
Well-known member
some pb swiss stuff:
more thoughts written about the insider pro ratcheting bit driver in another thread: https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=8824906#post8824906
more thoughts written about the insider pro ratcheting bit driver in another thread: https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=8824906#post8824906
Dear All,
I got me some 3/8" Nepros ratchets and 3/8" Nepros sockets.
The ratchets are divine, the sockets are OK. I prefer the Ko-ken Z-series (Z-EAL) over the KTC Nepros.
I am very fond of the KTC tool holders:
As I saw that these KTC holders are made in Taiwan, maybe you can help me find a cheaper alternative than buying them from KTC (and Ebay Japan).
I am looking for 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2".
I got me some 3/8" Nepros ratchets and 3/8" Nepros sockets.
The ratchets are divine, the sockets are OK. I prefer the Ko-ken Z-series (Z-EAL) over the KTC Nepros.
I am very fond of the KTC tool holders:
As I saw that these KTC holders are made in Taiwan, maybe you can help me find a cheaper alternative than buying them from KTC (and Ebay Japan).
I am looking for 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2".
Qualitytools
Well-known member
Dear All,
I am very fond of the KTC tool holders:
As I saw that these KTC holders are made in Taiwan, maybe you can help me find a cheaper alternative than buying them from KTC (and Ebay Japan).
I am looking for 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2".
Interesting! What do they do? Are they a form of a magnetic tray? Any pictures of them in use?
Fedwrench
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Those KTC Tool holders are so your Nepros ratchets never have to touch the other tool brands in your box. 
tesla's ennui
Active member
Nepros tools should only be stored in padded velvet lined Gerstner chests. And handled with white gloves.
Qualitytools
Well-known member
I just looked it up and found this.
Thank You, a bit steep for just a ratchet holder
Qualitytools
Well-known member
Those KTC Tool holders are so your Nepros ratchets never have to touch the other tool brands in your box.
I guess, funny thought.
Since there are quite a few Europeans looking at this thread, thought I ask here.
As I find myself doing more and more little plumbing jobs, I was looking at getting one of these: Ridgid EZ Change Faucet Tool
However, getting them to Belgium is over € 45, which I think is a little steep for some plastic (no doubt Chinese) tube with metal inserts.
Does anyone have any experience with these cheap clones that keep popping up? Doolland, Fortspang, ...
Some are marked in inches, others metric. Are they any good or throwaway junk?
As I find myself doing more and more little plumbing jobs, I was looking at getting one of these: Ridgid EZ Change Faucet Tool
However, getting them to Belgium is over € 45, which I think is a little steep for some plastic (no doubt Chinese) tube with metal inserts.
Does anyone have any experience with these cheap clones that keep popping up? Doolland, Fortspang, ...
Some are marked in inches, others metric. Are they any good or throwaway junk?
Wiha Soft Finish VS Micro Finish.
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/xTerHEWmONY" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/xTerHEWmONY" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
measuredtwice
Well-known member
Something not previously seen on Garage Journal. A Nepros ratchet that has been used and has scratches.
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measuredtwice
Well-known member
^^ Just to make sure it is clear. I was just joking above. ^^
Interesting results.
It doesn't apply to this comparison but another consideration is the shape of the handle. With oily hands, a 3 or 4 side shape may help (e.g. Witte/Matco, old 4 sided Mac, Snap-On hard and Instinct handles)
Interesting results.
It doesn't apply to this comparison but another consideration is the shape of the handle. With oily hands, a 3 or 4 side shape may help (e.g. Witte/Matco, old 4 sided Mac, Snap-On hard and Instinct handles)
I would think so too. Was surprised that the Pressmaster isn't stepped. Got to assume that Pressmaster know more about crimpers than Silverline though.
Pressmaster makes both. I have stepped MCT and K-series.
I think they’re for different terminals.
neophyte
Well-known member
I still far prefer the microfinish handles, for both wet and dry and oily use.
neophyte
Well-known member
Also,
The Wiha is a nicer microfinish to the Witte microfinish or whatever Witte calls their version.
pizza
Well-known member
VERY nice. well done, lemons.
i really wanted a video like this when i was buying my softfinish set, but since i'm almost never getting my screwdrivers oily, my buyer's remorse has vanished.
your vid is a good companion to the GTR vid:
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/BhbjCoT8k6Q" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
i watched it before buying my set, and the whole time i was thinking, "it's clear that microfinish works better in oil, but what about in everyday use?!?"
your wet test was also a nice touch, and i was pretty surprised by the result.
my one constructive criticism for your vid would be to see how much grip you could get on the oily softfinish had you wiped your hand off some like you say here:
it's obvious that microfinish would give better grip since it's specificially designed for that, but is the softfinish basically unusable until you remove virtually all of the oil?
i guess i'll find out for myself if i ever get mine oily.
Brian Puccio
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 30, 2017
- Messages
- 105
Fascinating. I’m glad my Wiha’s are all soft finish and now I’m no longer curious about trying out the micro finish.
Thank you!
Dave455
Well-known member
Re: Tools from the old worl
Thank you very much for that Mr. Lemons. Really useful review. Use with wet hands is something often disregarded.
One of the nicest things I find about the online world, is that people are prepared to give up their time to assist like minded folks!
I’ve long felt that the most important factor for grip with oily hands was shape, rather than texture. It does seem that the micro finish really does work though.
I find I need to deal with grease and general grime more than oil, and for me the cleanup is an issue too. How do you think the micro finish compare to the soft finish for wiping off?
The micro finish don’t seem to be very common at the moment. I wouldn’t mind a set of Pozidriv’s, but I can’t seem to find them at sensible money. I can get a set of 6 drivers, including Pozi 1 and 2, for the same money that some are asking for one driver!
Is the bit driver a recent acquisition? I’ve been looking out for those for a while but haven’t seen them.
Thank you very much for that Mr. Lemons. Really useful review. Use with wet hands is something often disregarded.
One of the nicest things I find about the online world, is that people are prepared to give up their time to assist like minded folks!
I’ve long felt that the most important factor for grip with oily hands was shape, rather than texture. It does seem that the micro finish really does work though.
I find I need to deal with grease and general grime more than oil, and for me the cleanup is an issue too. How do you think the micro finish compare to the soft finish for wiping off?
The micro finish don’t seem to be very common at the moment. I wouldn’t mind a set of Pozidriv’s, but I can’t seem to find them at sensible money. I can get a set of 6 drivers, including Pozi 1 and 2, for the same money that some are asking for one driver!
Is the bit driver a recent acquisition? I’ve been looking out for those for a while but haven’t seen them.
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upgrading
Well-known member
macgee
Well-known member
My Erem tools. Not a very large collection, but enough to do what I need to do.
You have a very nice set, my swiss made Erem set is even smaller and not as clean as yours. Forgot to include about five others.
My favorite cutters are my Erem's made in Italy that I bought 30 years ago (top left). Never seen this type before from Erem?
I'm shocked how well they've stood up. By far, my favorite ergonomics and feel and have never let me down and way nicer than my newer Erem's.
The bottom right are E.A. Berg pliers from Eskilstuna, Sweden. I have a bunch of there wood chisels.
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Is there more than one type of red/blue/yellow insulated connectors? I thought they were all the same?
Fair enough. They are both very good.
I miss GTR and wish him well.
It doesn't take much oil/grease for SF to become slippy. No worse than any other smooth handle though. Mechanics gloves with some texture on the palms helps a lot for me.
Same results with grease. I tried them with red rubber grease. The fine texture does have its limits though with thick grease.
Micro Finish texture does hold a little dirt. I wiped them both down with a dry rag and then with white kitchen roll. The kitchen roll was clean from the Soft Finish, but a little dirty from the Micro Finish.
Yes new, and yes paid too much. Gave up on waiting for a better price.
https://www.enrgtech.co.uk/product/screw-and-nut-drivers-bits-blades-and-handles/ET10245282/52650
Got about 30 holes from a Dewalt masonry bit. Not sure if that's good, bad or normal. Also, maybe some user error. Full speed and lean on it.
Going to try Bosch 'Multi-Construction' next. Made in Germany.
Dewalt cordless angle grinder in the barn workshop. Made in Czech. I'm never going to use a hacksaw again.
Going to try Bosch 'Multi-Construction' next. Made in Germany.
Dewalt cordless angle grinder in the barn workshop. Made in Czech. I'm never going to use a hacksaw again.
rice rocket
Well-known member
- Joined
- Mar 24, 2011
- Messages
- 3,175
Got about 30 holes from a Dewalt masonry bit. Not sure if that's good, bad or normal. Also, maybe some user error. Full speed and lean on it.
You probably want to rent an SDS drill.
There are conical and cylindrical variants I think. Rennsteig/Knipex do both as well.
Dave455
Well-known member
Thanks, interesting!
Never heard of that firm, but wow, they’ve got some stock holding. They’re obviously supplying the electronics trade, but even so, some of the Wiha screwdrivers the stockholding was 400+.
Shame the website isn’t a bit easier to use!
Dave455
Well-known member
Got about 30 holes from a Dewalt masonry bit. Not sure if that's good, bad or normal. Also, maybe some user error. Full speed and lean on it.
Going to try Bosch 'Multi-Construction' next. Made in Germany.
Dewalt cordless angle grinder in the barn workshop. Made in Czech. I'm never going to use a hacksaw again.
I’ve never been that impressed with any of the De Walt bits I’ve used. I suppose they are O.K. for occasional use, but I’ve never regarded them as the “pro” bits they are supposed to be.
Bosch Multi-Constuction seem to be o.k. I use these, but only really when I’m faced with drilling one hole through different materials, which is what they seem to be designed for.
I pretty much never use regular masonry drills now. I used them up till a couple of years ago to drill small pilot holes before using my big SDS drill. Since then I’ve bought a small (sub £100 Makita) SDS drill and I use that for pilot holes.
I’ve been very impressed with SDS. The system is so superior that even the cheapest SDS drill will outperform a conventional drill on masonry.
I like that cordless grinder though. Didn’t know De Walt were manufacturing in the Czech Republic. I don’t own one as corded tools generally suit me better. If I get one it will have to be a Bosch though, as I’ve already got Bosch batteries and charger
measuredtwice
Well-known member
Some new stuff from PB Swiss (and a coupon for a discount off the discontinued older Insider)
There's a new handle that is a cross between the Swiss Grip and Classic. It's the middle handle in the photo. I've only seen it on the Factory Gear (Japan) website. Couldn't find it on the PB Swiss website.
The new version of the insider has a bit holder that is attached to the handle. There's also some grip on the cap to make it easier to access the bits. In the photo, the old one is on the top and the new one is on the bottom.
The old version is discontinued and www.pbtools.us is running a coupon to clearance out the old ones.
New rolls.
There's a new handle that is a cross between the Swiss Grip and Classic. It's the middle handle in the photo. I've only seen it on the Factory Gear (Japan) website. Couldn't find it on the PB Swiss website.
The new version of the insider has a bit holder that is attached to the handle. There's also some grip on the cap to make it easier to access the bits. In the photo, the old one is on the top and the new one is on the bottom.
The old version is discontinued and www.pbtools.us is running a coupon to clearance out the old ones.
New rolls.
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theamcguy
Well-known member
Yeah, hoped the lidl bits might be a bargain, good enough for a couple of days use. Live and learn. Happy to have tried them though, so I now know first-hand why it's worth paying a bit more.
Knipex bottle opener.
https://knipexfans.shop/Zuhause-und...ml?force_sid=3f5887ba3e2218d967497bb87e762687
I contacted the company that sells these and they will not ship to the USA. Anybody in Germany want to buy a few and ship to the USA? That would help us out.
pizza
Well-known member
i want one, too.
lol
does anyone want to spearhead a group buy?
lol
does anyone want to spearhead a group buy?
I've never used SDS. Will try and borrow one if I have to drill a lot of brick again. Hopefully only got one day of drilling left to do now. Getting very sick of bits slipping my drill. Assume this isn't a problem with SDS.
Oow, I've nearly bought an insider a few times. Keep wondering if they can be good enough to match the price tag. Very tempting.
timgunn1962
Well-known member
SDS hits a LOT harder than a hammer drill, but turns a fair bit slower.
If you are an old codger like me, you might remember handheld star drills and fibre rawlplugs. The star drill was basically a punch with a cruciform section. You hit it, turned it a bit, hit it again, turned it a bit, hit it again and so on, seemingly ad infinitum. It made holes pretty well to be fair, but was hard work and very slow.
Electric hammer drills are a big improvement over star drills. SDS can be at least as big an improvement over electric hammer drills, though it does depend on what you are drilling.
Where are you? Brick might seem like it's all the same at first glance, but it ain't. If you are in London, the majority of brick is made from London Clay and is soft. Get up to Staffordshire and it's made from Etruria Marl and seems a fair bit harder. Up into Lancashire and it's made from shale and is very hard (Accrington Nori brick is so hard, it was shipped across and used for the foundations of the Empire State Building). Staffordshire Blue Engineering brick is also extremely hard: made from Etruria Marl (the clay that Josiah Wedgewood used in Wedgewood pottery), but reduction-fired to get the higher hardness and blue colour.
In most cases, brick is cheap to make and expensive to move, so you get to deal with the locally-sourced stuff. The harder bricks will get used out of their local area if there is a need for a tall building, where the weight of the walls would crush the bottom courses if built from local brick.
SDS drills have tended to be specced on either weight or impact energy. For a handheld SDS used for drilling brick, between 1 and 2 Joules impact energy is a good range: the 2-3kg range. Too much impact energy and you'll be knocking the back out of bricks when only half-way through.
The cheapest, nastiest SDS will outperform the best hammer drill by a huge margin in most cases. I'm not sure about London brick, but a 7mm SDS is probably at least 5 times faster in our local brick (Lancashire).
If you've knackered a twenty quid chuck and a few two-quid bits already, you'd probably have been almost as well off getting a fifty-quid SDS drill and a few one-quid SDS bits from Screwfix, or wherever, without even factoring in the time saving (assuming you can use 240V tools on site).
Buying a good set of SDS bits makes reasonable sense, but if you have a lot of holes the same size to drill, buying several of the cheap ones in the size you need is usually better: they drill much quicker when sharp, and expensive carbide doesn't wear all that much slower than cheap carbide.
With a chuck adaptor and the hammer action disengaged, SDS drills also tend to be better for biggish holes in wood and steel than many old-school hammer drills, just because they turn slower and generate more torque.
rice rocket
Well-known member
- Joined
- Mar 24, 2011
- Messages
- 3,175
Hammer drills are just a vibration coupling, it only hits as hard as your pushing. SDS has an actual mass hitting the end of the drill spindle. You can probably skate by with a hammer drill under 1/4", but anything larger is totally worth renting. The difference when I was hanging some garage shelving was like 10 seconds/hole vs 4 minutes on 1/2" holes, and saved a bunch on not burning out bits as well.
Dave455
Well-known member
I didn’t use SDS at first either. I had a big old AEG hammer drill (actually my Dad’s) and that seemed to work o.k, though in retrospect it didn’t. The problem with a hammer drill is that the drill bit is still fixed to the chuck, so a lot of the hammering action is wasted. A heavier drill almost seems to work against you.
In an SDS (Special Direct System) the drill bit is free to slide, and you won’t believe the difference it makes.
Re read the post from timgunn above - this is 100% spot on!
Yes, even a cheap SDS is better than a conventional hammer drill. An electrician friend has a cheapo one that he uses as a backup. I used it helping on one job and couldn’t believe how well it worked.
I bought a Screwfix Titan to do one job in a dirty environment. Reduced from circa £70 to £50 on a deal, and I can’t believe how good it is. I’ve been using it instead of my Bosch, waiting for it to fail, and it just keeps going. My advice would be to pick up a cheap one and just go for it.
Yes, bricks vary, though I wasn’t sure of the reasons why till reading timgunns post. Here in Sussex, bricks are incredibly variable. Some are easy to drill, most are much harder, and some (very old, blue tinged) are almost impossible to drill with a conventional hammer drill. The SDS deals with all of them.
Edit - this is the Titan one I got. 6kg / 1500 watt and still only £70 full price!
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