Tools from the old world

[garfieldzzz]

I need a copper mallet and we have the simplex at work, but I wonder how these compare to e.g. the PB Swiss dead blow mallet.

They are quite different. The standard simplex is not a deadblow, just a heavy modular hammer, available as aluminium and steel as well as hd steel. The pb swiss one is more of a fine tool.
The handles are in general a bit longer.


Not sure if Halder does offer it, but Hoffmann sells a similar Garant hammer as an deasblow option.

My simplex 60 find its use mainly for stuff which needs a hefty hit, i have at the moment a nylon and a rubber side. The PB swiss rather for mechanical work gentle taps etc.

 

[Dave455]

I need a copper mallet and we have the simplex at work, but I wonder how these compare to e.g. the PB Swiss dead blow mallet.

Imported soft faced hammers tend to be priced competitively in the U.K. mainly because they have to compete with the domestic producers, primarily Thorex, who produce excellent tools at fair prices.

They offer copper hammers in a wide variety of sizes, from tiny things for jewellers and gunsmiths, up to sledgehammer size. Handles can be wooden or nylon, and they offer the split head pattern too. I don’t know if these take the copper inserts, but I would assume so as I think they are standardised.

 

[CGarage]

Hi, I found the below tool trolley in a scrapyard and I bought it next to nothing but is missing the drawer’s lock. Facom sells the locker as a spare or can I fit another lock? Any ideas?

Awesome find! You need to get in touch with Facom France and ask or a French Facom dealer. SBD now owns Facom and customer service has sucked lately. But I would start there.

 

[geo9]

Hi, I found the below tool trolley in a scrapyard and I bought it next to nothing but is missing the drawer’s lock. Facom sells the locker as a spare or can I fit another lock? Any ideas?

A Facom toolbox in the scrapyard. Imagine that. As the lock appears to be broken into, your best bet would be to contact Facom Greece (Stanley Black & Decker Hellas) or one of the official dealers, so they can tell you if this can be fixed and at what price. Photos and serial number (if any) would help too.

 

[Vicks]

I need a copper mallet and we have the simplex at work, but I wonder how these compare to e.g. the PB Swiss dead blow mallet.

I have zero experience using a dead blow hammer or mallet but i understand its functioning. The Simplex shown above isn't a dead blow version so i'm curious to know why you'd want to compare it to a PBswiss dead blow mallet ? It would serve no purpose in my opinion.

If this is what you're looking for - Halder does makes both Soft Face Dead Blow Mallets and Dead Blow Sledge Hammers

 

[Vicks]

Hi, I found the below tool trolley in a scrapyard and I bought it next to nothing but is missing the drawer’s lock. Facom sells the locker as a spare or can I fit another lock? Any ideas?

Some time ago i bought a Stanley tool trolley on closeout/ sale at the local hardware store but it was missing the keys to the lock. After looking around and contacting Stanley (with no response from them) i bought a generic similar looking lock from Amazon. I then removed the existing lock (had to take out all the tools and drawers to access the lock from the inside) and the new lock fits/works perfectly, best thing is it cost the equivalent of 3$ delivered !! You might have similar luck with yours if you measure the cutout on the cabinet and order a correct sized lock online, but it does look like the cutout for the lock on your cabinet has been mangled and damaged so it might need some re-construction first.

Here's the lock i bought - link

 

[F-22]

I have zero experience using a dead blow hammer or mallet but i understand its functioning. The Simplex shown above isn't a dead blow version so i'm curious to know why you'd want to compare it to a PBswiss dead blow mallet ? It would serve no purpose in my opinion.

If this is what you're looking for - Halder does makes both Soft Face Dead Blow Mallets and Dead Blow Sledge Hammers

Just seems like a good match to have a soft faced dead blow mallet, at least for my machining needs. For example if the machining vise has a bit of play and kinematic jaw goes up as you tighten it, a dead blow on top of the piece pushes it down and keeps it square. If you just use a copper hammer, it usually won't help much, you can keep whacking it but it bounces back up. You have to tap it lightly and then hold it down.

 

[stawski]

Does anyone know who produces the pliers for Garant??

 

[Moose-LandTran]

Got this set recently, it was my grandfather's. Not sure how old it is, everything is marked W Germany, although i have some fairly recent Elora tools also marked that way.

Shame the tray is a little damaged and the case is a bit rough and rusty but it's a nice set to have, all complete, and something of his to keep.

 

[garfieldzzz]

Does anyone know who produces the pliers for Garant??

At some point It was VBW (Stahlwille) but they messed around with their suppliers for Garant lately. Your ones look like they are from the new, most likely OrbisWill.

 

[Moose-LandTran]

Some Hazet fuel line connector pliers arrived today.

 

[Qualitytools]

Some Hazet fuel line connector pliers arrived today.

It appears similar to the electrical connection pliers. What kind of fuel connections is this designed for? The ones I have on my BMW are more like a ring that needs to be compressed in order to release.

 

[Moose-LandTran]

It appears similar to the electrical connection pliers. What kind of fuel connections is this designed for? The ones I have on my BMW are more like a ring that needs to be compressed in order to release.

It's for this type, with a button on each side that needs to be depressed to release:

 

[Qualitytools]

It's for this type, with a button on each side that needs to be depressed to release:

Thanks for clarifying, Got it

 

[canpass127]

Hi, has anyone heard of this French brand before

 

[Brian Puccio]

Hi, has anyone heard of this French brand before

I like the font for the Deco logo.

 

[Vicks]

Crappy quality German made carpenter's/construction Square.

I have a Suki tri-square (not sure of the OEM) on which the markings are wearing off with hardly 2 years of usage. I now bought a Niigata Seiki to replace these. Very disappointed that these are "Made in Germany" - they are definitely not worthy.

 

[Orangina]

This is a pity.
But there is also cheap stuff Made in Germany as in every other country.
Anyway, it looks like not available anymore (found it by Google only in Dubai or Egypt).

First time hearing about this company. On the website https://www.suki.com/en/about-us.html it seems to be more of a hardware store supplier for DIY users, not for professionals. Isn't it?

This tool looks like my 30 year old simple no name DIY tool... and not as a profession tool e.g. fitting to accuracy norm DIN 875/00 (at 1 m only max 12 µm tolerance - e.g. typical thickness of a sheet of paper is 80 μm)

 

[Vicks]

This is a pity.
But there is also cheap stuff Made in Germany as in every other country.
Anyway, it looks like not available anymore (found it by Google only in Dubai or Egypt).

First time hearing about this company. On the website https://www.suki.com/en/about-us.html it seems to be more of a hardware store supplier for DIY users, not for professionals. Isn't it?

This tool looks like my 30 year old simple no name DIY tool... and not as a profession tool e.g. fitting to accuracy norm DIN 875/00 (at 1 m only max 12 µm tolerance - e.g. typical thickness of a sheet of paper is 80 μm)

Yes, they seem to be only a supplier for non-professional users (which is what I am ) and while Im not too demanding about the accuracy I would appreciate better quality of markings on the square LoL ..

 

[Dave455]

Yes, they seem to be only a supplier for non-professional users (which is what I am ) and while Im not too demanding about the accuracy I would appreciate better quality of markings on the square LoL ..

For measuring tools you generally want engraved and etched marks. Many of the older tools are engraved only, and hard to see. The cheaper ones are printed only, with the problem you found.

I much prefer the matte chrome rules that are now relatively common. This finish has been used on micrometers and machine scales for decades to make them easier to read.

Don’t run yourself down by describing yourself as a “non professional”. The first step to doing professional work is to acquire the tools that are capable of delivering it.

Be it metalwork or woodwork, I generally like to keep my rules and squares separate. For woodwork I use a traditional square like the one shown, together with (usually) a japanese matte chrome rule. I have Fisher, Shinwa and Minimura and all are excellent.

If I want a square and scale combined then the traditional “combination square” is the way to go!

 

[Moose-LandTran]

Yes, they seem to be only a supplier for non-professional users (which is what I am ) and while Im not too demanding about the accuracy I would appreciate better quality of markings on the square LoL ..

Have a look at Shinwa if they're available to you. Japanese-made, beautifully crafted and not at all expensive.

 

[Brian Puccio]

Do any Tools from the Old World fans know of any retailers (US-based or otherwise) who may have some older Wiha tools? Specifically I’m looking for a Wiha Topra, a pistol-grip ratcheting driver for System 6 blades.

Thanks!

 

[Moose-LandTran]

Do any Tools from the Old World fans know of any retailers (US-based or otherwise) who may have some older Wiha tools? Specifically I’m looking for a Wiha Topra, a pistol-grip ratcheting driver for System 6 blades.

Thanks!

Topra Ratchet Bit Sets - Wiha

Wiha Topra Ratchet Bit Sets all include the Topra ratcheting pistol grip handle, in addition to bits or blades in your choice of tips and a magnetic bit holder for extended reach.

carbideprocessors.com

Says in stock, but worth calling them i guess.

 

[garfieldzzz]

Crappy quality German made carpenter's/construction Square.

I have a Suki tri-square (not sure of the OEM) on which the markings are wearing off with hardly 2 years of usage. I now bought a Niigata Seiki to replace these. Very disappointed that these are "Made in Germany" - they are definitely not worthy.

Sorry for you but thats the typical i dont even look at item in the german home improvement stores. If you look for quality its rather GM Tools/Ulmia (also not everything is shiny feom them) and similar. Even the cheapest **** can be found as made Germany.

 

[Pixel_Rage]

New tools: Knipex TwinGrip, USAG 298SN - 5,5 flexible socket spiners and USAG 324 XP/B16 power screwdriver with bits

The set consists of 15 bits, an electric screwdriver, a bag and a usb-c cable that I did not include in the pictures


Bits are a mixture of USAG and Facom


Size compared to the PBSwiss ratchet handle




USAG YouTube channel:

 

[Toolfreaky]

These were my best friends grandpa's work tools. Made by Wells Brothers in Greenfield, MA and used locally.

 

[Qualitytools]

New tools: Knipex TwinGrip, USAG 298SN - 5,5 flexible socket spiners and USAG 324 XP/B16 power screwdriver with bits

The set consists of 15 bits, an electric screwdriver, a bag and a usb-c cable that I did not include in the pictures


Bits are a mixture of USAG and Facom


Size compared to the PBSwiss ratchet handle




USAG YouTube channel:

The flexible socket spinner is a very handy tool to have, especially when dealing with hose clamps.

 

[Vicks]

Have a look at Shinwa if they're available to you. Japanese-made, beautifully crafted and not at all expensive.

I bought a Shinwa protractor some time ago and it turned out to be made in China (so are many of their products nowadays as seen from product images), that is a deal breaker for me (as to Shinwa).

For measuring tools you generally want engraved and etched marks. Many of the older tools are engraved only, and hard to see. The cheaper ones are printed only, with the problem you found.

I much prefer the matte chrome rules that are now relatively common. This finish has been used on micrometers and machine scales for decades to make them easier to read.

Don’t run yourself down by describing yourself as a “non professional”. The first step to doing professional work is to acquire the tools that are capable of delivering it.

Be it metalwork or woodwork, I generally like to keep my rules and squares separate. For woodwork I use a traditional square like the one shown, together with (usually) a japanese matte chrome rule. I have Fisher, Shinwa and Minimura and all are excellent.

If I want a square and scale combined then the traditional “combination square” is the way to go!

Thanks for the detailed response. I recently became aware of the matt finish with engraved/etched markings on rulers/squares etc. I know this belongs in the "Tools of Japan" thread but i'm happy with the Niigata Seiki squares i recently bought.

 

[jmf535]

Does anyone have any hands-on experience with both Gedore and Stahlwille wrenches that could share their thoughts on the two?

I currently have a set of Stahlwille 14 series and some 17 ratcheting wrenches that I am very happy with, but have come across several situations where the offsets on the closed ends has caused clearance issues. So, I'm looking to add a set of "traditional" wrenches. I'd also like something a little thinner than the 14's.

Right now, it's between the Stahlwille 13/17F https://www.primetools.co.uk/produc...piece-combination-spanner-set-in-foam-module/

and the Gedore 7/7R. https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B000UZ3U0C/
https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B004ISTHYK/

 

[Dave455]

Does anyone have any hands-on experience with both Gedore and Stahlwille wrenches that could share their thoughts on the two?

I currently have a set of Stahlwille 14 series and some 17 ratcheting wrenches that I am very happy with, but have come across several situations where the offsets on the closed ends has caused clearance issues. So, I'm looking to add a set of "traditional" wrenches. I'd also like something a little thinner than the 14's.

Right now, it's between the Stahlwille 13/17F https://www.primetools.co.uk/produc...piece-combination-spanner-set-in-foam-module/

and the Gedore 7/7R. https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B000UZ3U0C/
https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B004ISTHYK/

Yes, I have experience of both!

I own the Stahlwille 13’s, and I’ve used the Gedore’s.

Generally, I’m not a fan of Gedore. I’ve used, and bought, other wrenches of theirs and haven’t been impressed. The finish has been rough and the broaching unimpressive.

Having said that, the 7 (and 7XL) are one of their better lines. The finish, and overall quality, is much better than their other tools. A colleague of mine uses them almost exclusively and they have lasted well.

I have no complaints re the Stahlwille 13’s. My “go to” wrenches in metric are pretty much all Stahlwille, I have the “Motor” open ends and “Corona” ring spanners, as well as the No.13 combination wrenches, and wouldn’t hesitate to buy them again.

I would buy whichever I preferred with confidance.

Wild card - consider Hazet 600N’s. These are longer tools, like the Stahlwille 14’s, but with the shallow offset like the Stahlwille 13’s. I have a set of these as well.

 

[Moose-LandTran]

Generally, I’m not a fan of Gedore. I’ve used, and bought, other wrenches of theirs and haven’t been impressed. The finish has been rough and the broaching unimpressive.

Agreed. They're a bit "rough and ready" or functional but haven't got the aesthetics of other brands. The Gedore DIN wrenches are nice though. Industrial finish, but i use them to be modified. (I press and weld them into pipes to make really long wrenches for viscous fan hubs.)

As Dave said, i'd go for the Stahlwille 13s (short) or Hazet 600s. (Much better length.)

 

[DAustin]

I like the feel of the Hazet and Stahlwille in my hand. The Gedore wrenches seem thin to me.

 

[jmf535]

I'm very interested in the Hazet 600's (big fan of their sockets/ratchets), but unfortunately they are too expensive for what will essentially be a backup set of wrenches.

They are also thicker than both the Stahlwille 13's and the Gedore 7's, and I'd really like something on the slimmer side.
The Gedore sets are better value, but it sounds like I should stick with Stahlwille...thanks guys

 

[Brian Puccio]

Topra Ratchet Bit Sets - Wiha

Wiha Topra Ratchet Bit Sets all include the Topra ratcheting pistol grip handle, in addition to bits or blades in your choice of tips and a magnetic bit holder for extended reach.

carbideprocessors.com

Says in stock, but worth calling them i guess.

Discontinued and out of stock, but thanks!

 

[Moose-LandTran]

Discontinued and out of stock, but thanks!

Sorry to hear that.

 

[Moose-LandTran]

A couple of nice new Hazet T60 Torx drivers:

 

[Moose-LandTran]

The insert in the big Torx driver moved in and out a bit and it annoyed me. The solution was two hexagons cut from sheet rubber to sit under the bit inside the socket and a new retaining pin made from and M6 bolt. Put it in the press to squish the rubber a bit and now there's no movement at all.




Compared to a normal size ½" Stahlwille T60 bit:

 

[Dave455]

A couple of nice new Hazet T60 Torx drivers:

That bigger Hazet bit is quite impressive! I’d seen those, but didn’t realise how hefty they were. Nice mod.

I recently needed another T60 - I only had one being shared across two locations, and that’s never good.

I opted for the KoKen, and the short one too as it mostly gets used on BMW belt tensioners.

 

[CGarage]

Mid-2000s Beta Italy 3 drawer tool box.
I believe made in 2006.

 

[Moose-LandTran]

That bigger Hazet bit is quite impressive! I’d seen those, but didn’t realise how hefty they were. Nice mod.

I recently needed another T60 - I only had one being shared across two locations, and that’s never good.

I opted for the KoKen, and the short one too as it mostly gets used on BMW belt tensioners.

It's a very serious piece of kit! I've wanted it for a while and Amazon had one in stock cheaper than anywhere else so i went for it. Much nicer now too with no movement of the bit insert.

Nice Koken bit. I do love their bit sockets, so nicely made and finished.

I think i'm overrun with T60 bits now, i should probably stop buying them.