Walker 93632 Jack Rebuild

[GeorgiaHybrid]

So what are you using when reassembling?

Use Loctite 518 Anaerobic Gasket Maker where the Metal meets the Metal and you dont have to torque that Tank nut down Near as much, You still want it fairly tight but doesnt have to be 200 ft/lbs tight.

Like Hiball noted, Loctite 518 and a 24" breaker bar and get it good and snug (for a jack). Never measured it but I would guess 100 ft/lbs or so. pop pop also learned a new trick for the really stubborn ones but an impact will usually do better than brute force due to the hammer impacts.

 

[EDGAR]

To POP POP and to all interested in removing cylinders:

To remove the cylinder from a Walker 93632 (or any other jack) you should use a exhaust tube expander inserted in the cylinder to prevent it from flattening when trying to remove it with a pipe wrench. Even a very slight flattening of the cylinder will prevent the wide part of the ram from going into the cylinder. So expand the tool as much as it will go and apply the pipe wrench over were the expander is. (Harbor Freight sells three different sizes of expanders.)

IMPORTANT! When using a exhaust tube expander check that there are no raised sharp edges on the exterior surface of the expander. Sometimes the manufacturers do not deburr the sharp, raised edges on the expanders, product of the manufacturing process, and these edges will leave a mark inside the cylinder requiring plenty of honing afterwards. If this were the case, take apart the expander and file the edges smooth. You only want soft edges on the expander.

Be aware that the cylinder in a Lincoln 93642, series C, is factory torqued to between 500 to 550 ft. lbs! So the cylinder in the Walker 93632 should be around that range. The reason for such a high torque is that these jacks do not use any type of copper or aluminum washer as a seal between the cylinder and the pump block, as other jacks do, so the seal is just metal to metal. If you could make a copper or aluminum washer to be inserted under the cylinder, you could use less torque on it.

A way of knowing if you are close to the torque required is to make a mark on the cylinder, before removing it, so that when your are reassembling the cylinder it is just a matter of aligning the mark to the position it was before removing it.

Perhaps you may want to use thread sealant if you think the cylinder might leak afterwards if you are not able to torque the cylinder to the required range.

You better have a solidly mounted vise in case you decide to remove the cylinder. And you are going to need a 5 or 6 feet long steel pipe as an extension for the pipe wrench. Better use at least a 24" pipe wrench. Good luck!

 

[fordbroncodave]

I just bought a napa fleet 632 jack for $30. surprising it is not bent at all and very flat.

after pumping the jack it does not raise at all. after adding fluid it still does not pump.

previous owner put it away 10 years ago damaged and i happened to buy it yesterday.

older model with the rear wheels held on with snap rings.

i don't see a vent????

hiball PM'ed

pictures will come later.

 

[pop pop]

To POP POP and to all interested in removing cylinders:

To remove the cylinder from a Walker 93632 (or any other jack) you should use a exhaust tube expander inserted in the cylinder to prevent it from flattening when trying to remove it with a pipe wrench. Even a very slight flattening of the cylinder will prevent the wide part of the ram from going into the cylinder. So expand the tool as much as it will go and apply the pipe wrench over were the expander is. (Harbor Freight sells three different sizes of expanders.)

IMPORTANT! When using a exhaust tube expander check that there are no raised sharp edges on the exterior surface of the expander. Sometimes the manufacturers do not deburr the sharp, raised edges on the expanders, product of the manufacturing process, and these edges will leave a mark inside the cylinder requiring plenty of honing afterwards. If this were the case, take apart the expander and file the edges smooth. You only want soft edges on the expander.

Be aware that the cylinder in a Lincoln 93642, series C, is factory torqued to between 500 to 550 ft. lbs! So the cylinder in the Walker 93632 should be around that range. The reason for such a high torque is that these jacks do not use any type of copper or aluminum washer as a seal between the cylinder and the pump block, as other jacks do, so the seal is just metal to metal. If you could make a copper or aluminum washer to be inserted under the cylinder, you could use less torque on it.

A way of knowing if you are close to the torque required is to make a mark on the cylinder, before removing it, so that when your are reassembling the cylinder it is just a matter of aligning the mark to the position it was before removing it.

Perhaps you may want to use thread sealant if you think the cylinder might leak afterwards if you are not able to torque the cylinder to the required range.

You better have a solidly mounted vise in case you decide to remove the cylinder. And you are going to need a 5 or 6 feet long steel pipe as an extension for the pipe wrench. Better use at least a 24" pipe wrench. Good luck!

Thanks Edgar, I may be able to handle these without removing the tube. At least I hope so!

 

[Hiball]

Thanks Edgar, I may be able to handle these without removing the tube. At least I hope so!

I Very Seldom Remove a Cylinder, ONLY if i have to do some Serious Work/Replacement. Its a Moot point to remove the Walkers because as Edgar already said they dont utilize a Seal like your Older Hw's etc. I use a Big Ridgid Chain Wrench and have special sized plugs that i slide into the cylinder to prevent flat spotting them, A 6' Cheater is Also Helpful.

 

[Hiball]

I just bought a napa fleet 632 jack for $30. surprising it is not bent at all and very flat.

after pumping the jack it does not raise at all. after adding fluid it still does not pump.

previous owner put it away 10 years ago damaged and i happened to buy it yesterday.

older model with the rear wheels held on with snap rings.

i don't see a vent????

hiball PM'ed

pictures will come later.

Pm Responded to.

 

[pop pop]

Interesting confirmation of history. The left arm is a "Lincoln" 93642" and the right one is a Walker 93632. Only difference is the decal. Can see a bit better cleaned and wet.

Note to Elroy. Any help on recreating these decals?http://i767

[IMG]http://i767.photobucket.com/albums/xx316/Pop23235/Floor%20Jack/003.jpg

 

[Elroy]

Note to Elroy. Any help on recreating these decals?

You're going to need a good picture head with as little distortion as possible. From there the image gets digitized and any missing or damaged portion recreated. The artist doing the clean-up work also needs an idea what the missing portions actually looks like.

It's not a ten minute job.

 

[pop pop]

If Elroy were doing this and could find a kind soul to take a picture of a decal in a bit better condition than these, what kind of business would you look for to do the deed? Is this something a printer would normally do or what specialty? Oh, cost matters, so what ball park are we in? $5, $50, $500? Appreciate any advice Elroy can offer. These don't have the sentimental value of the first one you did, so a good paint job without detail may be all these old girls get. But looking new again would make them feel better I'm sure.

 

[Grinny]

Great thread, and still as sought as the day it was posted I am sure

PS I am in the process of trying to remove the tank nut, but based on a PM I will try the soaking method and then reattack LOL

 

[GBertolet]

Hi all, I'm a new member who is trying to repair my Ajax 95632 1.5 ton jack that won't pump up. It is supposed to be the same as a 93632 Walker jack. I have the clip, spring and cups off the pump assembly, but I cannot seem to get the fitting at the bottom unscrewed. I have a 1" deep socket with 18" breaker bar with a pipe extention on it and it won't move. I do have an impact wrench to try next. Is there a trick in getting this loose or is it a matter of brute strength? I am probably going to have a lot of more questions as this project progresses. I have already made a spanner from a 2" pipe to remove the tank nut next.

 

[Hiball]

Hi all, I'm a new member who is trying to repair my Ajax 95632 1.5 ton jack that won't pump up. It is supposed to be the same as a 93632 Walker jack. I have the clip, spring and cups off the pump assembly, but I cannot seem to get the fitting at the bottom unscrewed. I have a 1" deep socket with 18" breaker bar with a pipe extention on it and it won't move. I do have an impact wrench to try next. Is there a trick in getting this loose or is it a matter of brute strength? I am probably going to have a lot of more questions as this project progresses. I have already made a spanner from a 2" pipe to remove the tank nut next.

Those Pump Piston Cylinders arent generally that tight.. Do you have it in a Vise or secured? Its standard thread..

 

[GBertolet]

I got the nut out using a breaker bar and a pipe extension, using lots of effort. In trying to get the tank nut off I sheared the tabs off my home made spanner socket. The metal the pipe was made of, apparantly was not up to snuff. I went to the local industrial supply store looking for a spanner socket or wrench, but they had nothing like that. Plus I have only a 12" pipe wrench, which I think will be inadequate. I am trying to come up with an alternative means. I do have a 5" Wilton bench mounted vise. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

 

[GeorgiaHybrid]

I got the nut out using a breaker bar and a pipe extension, using lots of effort. In trying to get the tank nut off I sheared the tabs off my home made spanner socket. The metal the pipe was made of, apparantly was not up to snuff. I went to the local industrial supply store looking for a spanner socket or wrench, but they had nothing like that. Plus I have only a 12" pipe wrench, which I think will be inadequate. I am trying to come up with an alternative means. I do have a 5" Wilton bench mounted vise. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Make your spanner from a big socket similar to what I did and take the bottle and your home made socket to your friendly neighborhood tech and ask him to zip it off. Just make sure your socket fit is tight and it will work like a charm. Unless you are using ** Strong pipe (schedule 120), you will usually twist the lugs off the pipe.

 

[GBertolet]

Thanks!

 

[bhalv]

question: I have my old crusty jack to the point of lifting under hydraulic power, but as soon as you add a car to the equation, the jack just sits there. I'm thinking a blown seal somewhere, anybody got an idea of where to start? oh, and no fluid id leaking out of the main cylinder or anywhere else i can see, so im thinking its internal.

 

[pop pop]

Did you put new seals in it? If not, likely will need them. See Hibal

 

[skitz43]

I'm new to this forum but liked your pic & info a lot so i'm trying to rebuild my Walker #93632 . I got to the part where you make the socket. Ok, fine i made a socket & used an air gun. It"s not moving, at all. Is this the normal clockwise direction or opposite ? I destroyed the socket so i'm making a new one. By the way my only problem with the jack was it would not stay up. It came down slow.

Thanks for any help

 

[GeorgiaHybrid]

I'm new to this forum but liked your pic & info a lot so i'm trying to rebuild my Walker #93632 . I got to the part where you make the socket. Ok, fine i made a socket & used an air gun. It"s not moving, at all. Is this the normal clockwise direction or opposite ? I destroyed the socket so i'm making a new one. By the way my only problem with the jack was it would not stay up. It came down slow. Thanks for any help

Sounds like your U cup seal is blown just like mine was.

The rotation of the tank nut is std but you might need to get someone with a stronger impact to zip it off. I was using a 1/2" Snap-on MG725 and most of the better impacts (IR, etc) are roughly equal to that one. If you have a good 1/2" impact and it is not working, take it to a truck shop and have them get after it with a 3/4 impact.

Good luck and post the results.

 

[skitz43]

Thanks for reply. I'll try it.

 

[123Go]

Just a note to thank all you guys for going out of your way to help people learn about jacks & tools,etc...
Its just awsome to see how detailed your step by step pictures and information are showing us repairs on things.
Then on top of that your always right here to answer any questions to help us out when needed.
I feel like I struck gold by finding this website. I greatly appreciate your knowledge myself and I know everyone else here does too. Thanks guys!

I now return you to your regular scheduled forum....lol

 

[ratfink500xl]

Hello,

New guy here. Very glad I found this site and particularly this thread. I'm considering buying a $25.00 Coats 322 HC floor jack that goes up, but won't stay up. I've never rebuilt one and would like to try.

So, I'm looking to price a rebuilt kit and hope the advice is free. I thought I'd post here first. Thanks.

 

[GeorgiaHybrid]

Hello,

New guy here. Very glad I found this site and particularly this thread. I'm considering buying a $25.00 Coats 322 HC floor jack that goes up, but won't stay up. I've never rebuilt one and would like to try.

So, I'm looking to price a rebuilt kit and hope the advice is free. I thought I'd post here first. Thanks.

PM member Hiball for a kit and info. He can usually help out with any jack issues as long as he is not riding the trains.

 

[ratfink500xl]

Thanks for the info!

 

[Jimdandy]

Hi,
Loved the article and pics. I need to rebuild my walker jack. Do you sell kits or should i send you the pump?
Thanks,
Jerry

 

[GeorgiaHybrid]

PM Hiball. He can sell you a kit or rebuild your unit if you ship it to him. That series of jack is not that hard to rebuild though and makes a nice afternoon project.

 

[cubfarm 1]

Hiball---- where i the world are you still getting the brass fill plugs???

 

[pop pop]

GH, I've posted on some of these hyd units I'm restoring from rust. I bought the IR 2135TI, I think that is the number, impact, 1/2". This thing is scary. So I made the socket from a 2 1/2" impact. Several came loose fairly easy, after soaking in ****** fluid. The last one is a SO YA642. Didn't think the packing nut would ever release. Finally soaked about a week and jacked the pressure up to 120 psi on the impact. Broke the prongs off the socket! Remade the prongs, tried again and took about 30 sec. of impact before slowly beginning to release. Wow! These things are really tough. Would like to see Hiball's tool for removal.

 

[Jeeper]

GH, I've posted on some of these hyd units I'm restoring from rust. I bought the IR 2135TI, I think that is the number, impact, 1/2". This thing is scary. So I made the socket from a 2 1/2" impact. Several came loose fairly easy, after soaking in ****** fluid. The last one is a SO YA642. Didn't think the packing nut would ever release. Finally soaked about a week and jacked the pressure up to 120 psi on the impact. Broke the prongs off the socket! Remade the prongs, tried again and took about 30 sec. of impact before slowly beginning to release. Wow! These things are really tough. Would like to see Hiball's tool for removal.

Anything had to be done differently when restoring a rusty hydraulic unit? I am curious what you are finding.

 

[pop pop]

Mostly surface light rust inside. Lots of gunk from water and oil in the resevoir. No serious damage to the cyl rods or bores, thankfully. Very little corrosion in the bored passages in the valve body. Some I've lightly sandblasted (not with sand!) to remove any remaining rust, touch up the seats afterward. Sometimes can't tell if it is rust or just oil residue. Obvious rust gets the blast to remove it. Most difficult was the base of the cylinder. I didn't try to remove the cylinder, just blasted lightly inside trying not to hit the cyl bore. Role up some paper and insert. Mostly just stuck threads. Haven't been able to remove even one of the relief valve passage plugs behind the mount bolt. I've been washing them out with kerosene and blowing out the passages 3/4 times to remove anything left behind, plus pipe cleaners. Polish/hone the cyl and use crocus cloth on the cyl rod. A few had some surface rust on the inside/top of the reservoir. Light blast and then etch prime. This would have not been covered with the oil in operation. New seals and debur sharp edges, assemble, wash exterior with paint thinner, prime and paint. Using a thin film of the urethane on the ends of the tank and never seize on the packing nut and torque to about 300ft #. Just takes time and a big impact! (and lots of help from Hiball! Thanks)

 

[Jeeper]

sand!) to remove any remaining rust, touch up the seats afterward.

How are you touching up the seats? What tools are you using?

Guess I am the only one who couldn't remove the plug behind the mounting bolt.

 

[pop pop]

I use a mild abrasive, not sand. Turn the pressure down low (20psi) and gently blow the media from the tank side. That way you aren't really hitting the seats. If not clean by then, and most are grey, not rusty by then, I'll try on top of the seat, but not very much, just a light hit. So far, I take the old ball and hit it on the seat with a punch and form a good seat. Then clean all up extremely well and install the new balls, etc. So far it has worked. Obviously would not do this unless there is significant red rust present in the passages. The blast media doesn't really make me happy, but better than leaving the rust in place.

So far I have not been able to remove the plug behind the mounting hole on any I've attempted.

 

[Grumpys Hot Rods]

This post help me repair my Walker jack today!

Thanks for posting

 

[burt8810]

Repairing my Walker jack with a kit from Hiball. Too much time between disassembly and assembly. Need some help.

I see a small ball to the left of the spring cap for the Safety Valve. I must have missed it on disassembly. Two balls came in the rebuild kit from Hiball but they appear to be for the Pressure & Suction valve.
Can anyone tell me the diameter of the ball for the Safety Valve? Hoping a bicycle bearing ball may work.

Had 3 seals around top of piston. Kit has 2 more of about same size but thinner. Anyone know where they go?

Also an O ring.

Pictures below with dimensions and a picture of the Handle Valve. May be of some use to someone.

Thanks in advance.
Herb

 

[pop pop]

I'll give you my best guess till Hiball corrects:
The dia of the relief valve ball is about the size of a BB, maybe smaller. It may still be in the jack body.
The Packing Gland/Nut comes in 3 varieties. Early ones used the three packing rings, later ones used both the quad ring and a back up ring, latest ones only the quad ring.
On my jacks, the valve handle used both the square ring and the O ring.

 

[Hiball]

Repairing my Walker jack with a kit from Hiball. Too much time between disassembly and assembly. Need some help.

I see a small ball to the left of the spring cap for the Safety Valve. I must have missed it on disassembly. Two balls came in the rebuild kit from Hiball but they appear to be for the Pressure & Suction valve.
Can anyone tell me the diameter of the ball for the Safety Valve? Hoping a bicycle bearing ball may work.

Had 3 seals around top of piston. Kit has 2 more of about same size but thinner. Anyone know where they go?

Also an O ring.

Pictures below with dimensions and a picture of the Handle Valve. May be of some use to someone.

Thanks in advance.
Herb

Overload Ball is 5/32"

You Received a Universal Kit, If you Series used Packing you will Disregard the Quad Ring and Backup.

The Release Seal uses both the Oring/Backup.. Oring down first then backup Groove side down (mates to the Oring).

 

[bonneyman]

...... Funny how I left for greener pastures near 30 years ago, and how green the old pastures seem now....

ALOT of us are thinking the same thing!

 

[burt8810]

Thanks pop pop and Hiball for the quick response, good to go now.
By the way the piston on my jack was pitted over more than 1/2 of its length. Turned a new one out of stainless.
Herb

 

[drefi]

Hi guys, newbie here.
Great forum, great thread.
I too have a walker 93632 jack that I got about 30 years ago, and it was old then! I used it for many years till it finaly gave up. Years ago I got an SPX kit #300449 & put seals in the pump but no luck so I let it sit.
I recently took the "Hydraulic Unit" out & tried to get the nut off with no luck. I made a spanner tool out of 1/4" steel plate by drilling a 1 1/4" hole & welded 1/4" tabs to fit the slots. Then I welded a 2 foot long tube to it as a handle.
It fit tight & I placed the unit between 2x4's & lowered my rotary in-ground twin post onto it to hold it secure.
I tried but couldn't budge it with the 2 foot handle so I used a 5 foot cheater. I leaned on it & it didn't budge. I leaned a bit harder & it moved - it tore the 1/4" tabs off the 1/4" plate! Apparently it's tight.
I don't doubt it could be rebuilt but I'm wondering, what about buying a new "Hydraulic Unit" for a lincoln or other copy jack?
Has anyone tried this, are they even available?
Just a thought...

 

[Hiball]

Hi guys, newbie here.
Great forum, great thread.
I too have a walker 93632 jack that I got about 30 years ago, and it was old then! I used it for many years till it finaly gave up. Years ago I got an SPX kit #300449 & put seals in the pump but no luck so I let it sit.
I recently took the "Hydraulic Unit" out & tried to get the nut off with no luck. I made a spanner tool out of 1/4" steel plate by drilling a 1 1/4" hole & welded 1/4" tabs to fit the slots. Then I welded a 2 foot long tube to it as a handle.
It fit tight & I placed the unit between 2x4's & lowered my rotary in-ground twin post onto it to hold it secure.
I tried but couldn't budge it with the 2 foot handle so I used a 5 foot cheater. I leaned on it & it didn't budge. I leaned a bit harder & it moved - it tore the 1/4" tabs off the 1/4" plate! Apparently it's tight.
I don't doubt it could be rebuilt but I'm wondering, what about buying a new "Hydraulic Unit" for a lincoln or other copy jack?
Has anyone tried this, are they even available?
Just a thought...

Im not gonna say that there isn't some Rebuilt 632 units around (Hydraulic shops), But the Older Units are completely different than the Newer ones in regards to Mounting holes/sizes etc.. Have you tried using a Impact socket/Impact to see if the shock will loosen it? Maybe take it to a local shop and have them remove it? Where are you located?