Walker Turner Drill Press - Rebuild

[MAYOR28]

Didn't get anything accomplished this weekend

But I did get a nice "Black Friday" deal, I picked this up for $15:

 

[MAYOR28]

So, now that I have the drill press all apart, I am looking for a new pulley for the motor side. I measured the original pulley, the inner bore is 5/8", and the inner V's measure 1", 2", 3", and 4". I have been looking all over for a matching pulley, but I cannot find one with a diameter as small as 1". Am I measuring the pulley correctly? Those measurements are of the smallest diameter inside the V. I have seen pulleys with 2, 3, 4, 5 inch diameters, but perhaps these are the outer diameters.......

 

[Outlawmws]

Mayor, what is the center to center belt spacing on the sheave? A std sheave from a good hardware store might work. If not, I may have one around here...

 

[Outlawmws]

Wow 1" small pulley? Where are you measuring?

 

[MAYOR28]

Wow 1" small pulley? Where are you measuring?

That is the smallest pulley, measured at the root of the V.

 

[MAYOR28]

Mayor, what is the center to center belt spacing on the sheave? A std sheave from a good hardware store might work. If not, I may have one around here...

What does this all mean?

 

[Outlawmws]

That is the smallest pulley, measured at the root of the V.

They are not measured from the root, you measure from the top...

 

[Outlawmws]

What does this all mean?

Sheaves have different spacing depending on the size of belt, but some are spaced different even with the same size belt.

So you have to know not only the shaft diameter and the outside pulley diameters, but the spacing so the belt remains straight from the drive pulley to the driven pulley as you shift from size to size (Speed to speed)

 

[jakemac]

The best way to find the pulley you need is to measure the diameter of the arbor hole, the outside of the large step, the outside of the small step, the total height of the pulley, and the number of steps you need.

EDIT :
I just went down to the shop, all my spares are for 1/2" arbors, so I'm afraid that I can't help. Sorry.

 

[MAYOR28]

Okay, so first an update. With the strangely warm weather last weekend all of the sandblasted parts flash rusted.......So, I decided it was time to get some primer on all the parts. It has been a little cold here, but the new heater in the garage makes things oh so much nicer. Temperature from last week:

Little heater does a nice job!

And Primed:

 

[MAYOR28]

Now, an update on the pulley conundrum, I ordered what I thought was the correct pulley off that famous river website, it is not correct.

Can someone help me find the right pulley for this motor, or should I just put the old one back on even with the damage?

.

 

[Packard V8]

Other than that broken lip on the smallest diameter, what other damage did you do to your pulley? FWIW, I've used pulleys with a chip out of them with no problems. If you'd have saved the chip, cleaning carefully, a slather of JB Weld, clean up with a Dremel and you'd never notice a problem.

jack vines

 

[MAYOR28]

Other than that broken lip on the smallest diameter, what other damage did you do to your pulley?

That is the only damage. I think I have lost the piece since it happened. I am not sure if the pulley is aluminum or pot metal. I was thinking of trying to have a welder do some sort of repair, but that is probably hit or miss.....

 

[exmaxima]

One of the big ticket items that was left to me was his old Walker Turner Drill Press.

Have you checked the spindle bearings yet? I restored a similar WT drill press a few years ago and recall that the spindle bearings were an oddball size with extended inner races. It cost me a sizable sum to buy the bearings, and they were hard to find.

 

[yaidunno]

McMaster: 6213K76

2" on the small pulley, 4" on the large. Its hard to tell the diameter of the large one in the picture. Uses an "A" series belt.

 

[69supercj]

If it were me I'd just fix the original pulley. I think you could build that up with some JB Weld and you'd never know it was broken.

 

[MAYOR28]

Have you checked the spindle bearings yet? I restored a similar WT drill press a few years ago and recall that the spindle bearings were an oddball size with extended inner races. It cost me a sizable sum to buy the bearings, and they were hard to find.

No.
How do I check the spindle bearings?

 

[MAYOR28]

If it were me I'd just fix the original pulley. I think you could build that up with some JB Weld and you'd never know it was broken.

I think this is the route I am going to go. But I am going to try to fix it in a manner that does not involve JB Weld.....I think I have a plan.

 

[MAYOR28]

McMaster: 6213K76

2" on the small pulley, 4" on the large. Its hard to tell the diameter of the large one in the picture. Uses an "A" series belt.

Too small. I think that is the smaller pulley I have in the picture.

 

[MAYOR28]

It's been a while since I got some time to work on the drill press. Car maintenance has been occupying all of my garage time over the past few months. I finally got the motor taken apart and I am considering what the next step is with it. I think the starter capacitor blew up which is why the motor wouldn't start. I need to find a source for a new one.

I did not take a picture of the capacitor, but does anyone know where I can find a replacement? I am also on the hunt for some wiring diagrams for this motor, I think there was another thread on OWWM that had a detailed rebuild, so I will check that out first.......

I would like to replace all of the aging wiring near the end of the coil and on the starter circuit. Anyone have a recommendation on how to do this?

.

 

[MAYOR28]

So, I need to find a source for bearings, capacitor, and maybe wire....

Also, does anyone know where I can get the Jacobs chuck wedges?

.

 

[Outlawmws]

If the jaws on the chuck are gone, you are usually ahead to just replace the chuck.

 

[MAYOR28]

If the jaws on the chuck are gone, you are usually ahead to just replace the chuck.

The jaws are there, it is fully functioning, just a little stiff. I wanted to disassemble it and clean everything and reassemble good as new. But I need the wedges to take the chuck off the spindle.

 

[Outlawmws]

What you need to look for is a Morse taper/Spindle removal wedge, not a "chuck wedge"

 

[svtride]

So, I need to find a source for bearings
.

http://www.accuratebearing.com

Best place for vintage machine replacement bearings. I've done a couple vintage machine and motor restorations from the '50's and Accurate Bearing always came through with new high quality reasonably priced bearings. Quick service too. Best to call them and have your old bearings available to reference.

Your progress looks real good.

 

[MAYOR28]

I checked the bearings and they seem fairly smooth, but I am going to replace them since I have the motor disassembled and don't really want to do it again anytime soon. I will give accurate bearing a call tomorrow.

I wanted to paint the bell housings today, but alas, it is raining for the third day in a row, so looks like that will have to wait until tomorrow.

Should I replace the rubber-cloth wiring inside the motor? Or just connect everything back up? I will at least need some new leads for the capacitor since I cut those to get the case apart........

.

 

[Fretters]

Should I replace the rubber-cloth wiring inside the motor? Or just connect everything back up? I will at least need some new leads for the capacitor since I cut those to get the case apart........

I would, if it were I. Either that or put some heatshrink sleeving over the wires, just incase the original insulation perishes later on.

 

[Outlawmws]

I'm not sure Heat shrink is a good idea unless the wire is straight. it tends to want to straighten up and that could put strain on the wires. you can re-sleeve those wires with insulation striped off of larger wire if you have disconnected them.

Generally, unless the internal insulation is rotting off (cloth) or disintegrating/brittle (plastic) I'd leave well enough alone.

 

[Outlawmws]

SNIP

I did not take a picture of the capacitor, but does anyone know where I can find a replacement? I am also on the hunt for some wiring diagrams for this motor, I think there was another thread on OWWM that had a detailed rebuild, so I will check that out first.......

I would like to replace all of the aging wiring near the end of the coil and on the starter circuit. Anyone have a recommendation on how to do this?

.

Possible resource for the Cap:

http://www.temcoindustrialpower.com/product_selection.html?p=start_capacitor_selection_guide

If the replacement caps voltage is higher than yours, that's completely OK. Generally for the cap value, pay attention to the original's tolerance range; as long as you are within, perfectly OK, if a small amount higher, probably still OK. Most modern caps have much tighter tolerances that "back in the day".

 

[MAYOR28]

Possible resource for the Cap:

http://www.temcoindustrialpower.com/product_selection.html?p=start_capacitor_selection_guide

Good info there, thanks Outlaw.

So, next question, my motor did not have a bleed down resistor on the capacitor, should I install one with the new capacitor?

 

[Fretters]

I'm not sure Heat shrink is a good idea unless the wire is straight. it tends to want to straighten up and that could put strain on the wires. you can re-sleeve those wires with insulation striped off of larger wire if you have disconnected them.

It does somewhat. Working it a gnats after shrinking it usually softens it back up notably though, depending on type. There is quite a bit of variation in heatshrink quality though. Sleeving from a large diameter wire would also work. The other option would be actual sleeving, like sparkies use, but I've always found that stuff even more annoying than heatshrink.

Generally, unless the internal insulation is rotting off (cloth) or disintegrating/brittle (plastic) I'd leave well enough alone.

I've had it bite me on the **** a few times, hence why I'd go with getting some extra insulation on there whilst it's still good. It can save some grief and another strip down later on.

 

[Fretters]

Good info there, thanks Outlaw.

So, next question, my motor did not have a bleed down resistor on the capacitor, should I install one with the new capacitor?

Unless you're planning on sticking your tongue or fingers on any contacts, it matters really not which way you go.

 

[Outlawmws]

SNIP
I've had it bite me on the **** a few times, hence why I'd go with getting some extra insulation on there whilst it's still good. It can save some grief and another strip down later on.

Well with you living in the land of the Lord of Darkness, Lucas, I can understand that philosophy!

 

[Fretters]

I went off on a mental tangent and thought that was a quote from a book or something, (I spent ages trying to think why it sounded familiar), before the penny dropped.

 

[MAYOR28]

What is happening.....

 

[Fretters]

What is happening.....

He was making a joke about Lucas, (the company who made automotive electrical equipment. They were, (are?), an English company), in reference to my point about failing insulation, due to their apparent reputation of being a bit unreliable, (we deny it vehemently ).

 

[Outlawmws]

was it the Penny that was in the fuse socket?

Mayor, Lucas is/was a major supplier of electronics at least for British cars, and lets just say they have a reputation... Hence the Title I used...

 

[jakemac]

My first car was a '77 Triumph Spitfire 1500. 30yrs later the name Lucas still gets my blood boiling. Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr

 

[larry4406]

Lucas = Prince of Darkness

 

[Fretters]

My first car was a '77 Triumph Spitfire 1500. 30yrs later the name Lucas still gets my blood boiling. Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr

Lovely vehicle though.

On a tangent, it takes some fair doing to get from a pillar drill to Triumph Spitfires in a thread.