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Walker Turner Drill Press - Rebuild

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MAYOR28

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Bristle-Discs-300.jpg


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OP
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MAYOR28

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Can you tell me or post a pic of the " 100 grit bristle disc" I don't know what you mean, but it sure seemed to work good.
Thanks

They work pretty good, but if you have something like the drill head with a lot of curves and corners it tends to chew off the bristles.......Just go easy

It works really good for flat or round areas......
 
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MAYOR28

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Yesterday's work was focused on the motor and spindle/quill assembly.....

I had to put the motor together and disassemble it a few times before I got it right......I am planning on wiring the switch box today, so I have not had the satisfaction of seeing it run yet.......but it spins buttery smooth :thumbup:

I started with a new attachment for the capacitor housing:

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A little polish, and viola:

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..
 
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Next was on to reassembly.....I forgot to put the bearings on the shaft until the last minute, but here is a pic of them installed.


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In no particular order, here is the reassembly process:

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Since I installed sealed bearings, I decided to plug the grease fittings with a nice 1/4-20 brass screw. I think it looks good with the brass......

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I also decided to re-tap the holes for the switch cover and use some 8-32 brass there as well. I just wish I had some brass rods or screws for the alignment screws that hold the end bells together......

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Today I am going to try to get things running and the column polished and then a few things back together....we'll see how it goes......:thumbup:
 
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I forgot to show the spindle:

20140419_125935_zpsosh0hzov.jpg



And here is a pic of the label that I got re-installed with some solid rivets:

20140419_114727_zpsn6csybnm.jpg
 
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nine4gmc

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Great job, I have been watching but have not posted yet, can't wait to see the finished product!
 

Outlawmws

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Use a second table between the work table and head and spin it to the side/rear = instant shelf, (but put a sheet magnet on it to keep things from vibrating off...)
 

nine4gmc

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Does anyone have any neat ideas for mounting a drill index to the column?


I have seen some really trick accessory organizers done on pole mounts here, they are just spread out. Maybe start a thread on DP organizers?
 
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Can someone school me on the features of this drill press table? It seems strange that the table doesn't have the normal X slots for clamping.....but it does have these tabs on the perimeter....

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Also, what is the exact purpose of the cup in the corner? It has a threaded hole at the bottom.

DSC02267_zpsa51b03be.jpg
 

Outlawmws

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That is a production table, (and in great condition! minimal "hits")

The gutter is for coolant collection the pocket is the drain and the pipe thread is to allow a hose fitting for collection and re-use of the coolant. I'd love to have a table like that!
 
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Fretters

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I'd love to have a table like that!

They're a pain for clamping with though. The Pollard has a wet table, and I'd honestly prefer to have it Tee slotted. Been trying to think for a while of a nice arm/clamp method without making it look a bit of a *** and without drilling into the table/base.
 

Outlawmws

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Do they make a double sided magnet plate like they use for indicators? :dunno: That and a std DP vise and you would be done...

Hmmm, some research may be required..
 
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What would you recommend for all of the hardware? Clean up the original and re-install? Replace? Replace with stainless?
 

Fretters

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What would you recommend for all of the hardware? Clean up the original and re-install? Replace? Replace with stainless?

Clean and reuse wherever possible. Buy or make new if something is totally knacked, but never, IMHO, use stainless. The older a piece, the tackier it looks when stainless is included. Just my personal opinion though.


Do they make a double sided magnet plate like they use for indicators? :dunno: That and a std DP vise and you would be done...

Hmmm, some research may be required..

A strong magnet would be a possible method. Not something I'd be keen on trying where swarf is though. :D
 

Outlawmws

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Clean and reuse wherever possible. Buy or make new if something is totally knacked, but never, IMHO, use stainless. The older a piece, the tackier it looks when stainless is included. Just my personal opinion though.

:+1:

A strong magnet would be a possible method. Not something I'd be keen on trying where swarf is though. :D


I'm talking about the ones with the switch to turn them on an off (i.e indicator base...). In the off position swarf should not be much of an issue.
 

Fretters

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A magnetic DTI base type thing then. Thought you were referring to that thin magnetic sheet type stuff when you mentioned indicators, (I was thinking vehicle, for some reason), not a DTI. :D
 

Outlawmws

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Similar to a surface grinder magnet, but the indicators are mechanical; IK think Surface grinders are electric. You have a strong magnet facing down, and another magenta that is either lined up with it, (On) or against it (Off).

Do that two sided, and use it sandwiched between the table and the vise...
 
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When i was putting the spindle back together, i was a little disappointed with the looser fit of the 2 bearings. I am assuming that this will contribute to run-out in the final assembly, should i be worried?

20140419_125935_zpsosh0hzov.jpg
 
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What do you class as loose. A snug, but not overly tight, slip fit with no slop or a loose slip fit with some slop?


Slid together, didn't need to be pressed or forced.....the bearings would fall out of the spindle on their own, the internal splined shaft has a good fit though.
 

Fretters

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As Outlaw says, shouldn't be a problem. If the outer race isn't holding in the housing properly, as in it's rotating rather than being stationary, you can always slip a piece of paper in there to snug that up when the bearing is pushed in.
 
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I found a gift card left over from Christmas, so I decided to buys some organizational supplies:

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Plan on doing a little clean up later on.......the drill press is on hold since I had surgery and cannot lift anything.....I have been re-organizing instead.....
 
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Got my buffer set up last night so I could try to polish some parts.....

Started with this:

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After some work with the "stainless/steel compound," they looked like this:

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I just had to throw them together with the handles and the cap to see how everything looks......I think it is really starting to come together! :beer:

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I need to touch up the paint around the decal plates where there was some primer showing......

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.
 

gearheadglen

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Looks great Mayor, I like the paint color looks like the original WT color

Can you share the details of the replacement motor capacitor. I have a similar motor I will be rebuilding and wanted to know which capacitor you used
 
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Looks great Mayor, I like the paint color looks like the original WT color

Can you share the details of the replacement motor capacitor. I have a similar motor I will be rebuilding and wanted to know which capacitor you used

Thanks!

I sourced the capacitor from McMaster. The capacitors you can buy today have a range of capacitance, so you just need to find one that fits the original value.
 
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So it has been awhile since I have had ample garage time to complete the the rebuild. I noticed that I started this thread in August 2013, so I am hoping to finish the rebuild in under 1 year.......kind of embarrassing, but oh well, so is life.

I started final polishing of some parts yesterday and worked on assembling today. Here is where I stand so far:

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Belt Guard :thumbup:

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And I was able to polish the knobs:

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But I lost one somewhere in the garage, so now the hunt ensues......

I am really disappointed with the pulley I bought for the motor. The motor is so smooth, but the pulley seems out of balance and wobbles ever so slightly. It adds a little noise to the motor that I am very unhappy about. The motor was soooooo quiet. Any suggestions?

I am off to buy a belt!
 

nine4gmc

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make sure the pulley is on square, sometimes the pulley is a loose fit and will be cocked a lil.
 
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MAYOR28

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make sure the pulley is on square, sometimes the pulley is a loose fit and will be cocked a lil.

I had to drive the pulley on, so I doubt it is cocked....and I don't think I bend it since I drove it with the center piece, not from the outer flanges.....
 
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