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Woodworking 101--Tools and Tips

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jimreed2160

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those of you more familiar with ww vises

could I fake/copy this Veritas out of two individual matching vises connected with a board or would it not work in tandem the way this does?

Like everything else in life, it depends. What are you expecting your end vise to do? I think two vises would work well for 90% of my projects--turning one handle is just a convenience for me. But if you need the end vise to be parallel and stay that way, you might have difficulty controlling both vises together.

Most of my workbench projects require only one dog. Like 95% of my projects. In this case two vises would work. The recent benchtop project that required all four dogs to play together did not require an exactly parallel face because the raw top was not square. I think I ended up working on it with the famous "three dog night" configuration. And three dogs worked just fine.

I say go for it. If you already have the vises, then you are way ahead of the cost curve.
 
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cheechi

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yeah the chain drive on that vise is nice. I was thinking with as smooth as acme threads are that it wouldn't rack too badly if you tried with two standard ones and kind of 'led' one with the other. Ultimately I was thinking like the two tail vises on that large bench shown earlier, having two discrete tail vises but also having a lap joint so they could be used as one. They would have to be turned individually but it might be a way to ensure even clamping force on a bigger piece.

I have two matching vises and had planned to make a face and tail vise on this bench but the photo gave me a thought. and you know how that goes.
 

jar944

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I was building cabinets the other day when I noticed the dados were not to full depth (after I had broken down the original machine setup.) I decided to finally sharpen my stanley router plane and give it a try.





Also a tip I just picked up was making a template for shelf pin holes. Perfect spacing is not needed as the same template is used for both sides and referenced off the same face. Certainly not as fast as a line boring machine, but faster than a kreg, or dare I say festool lr32 setup.





Final product waiting for "Paint", before installing backs and one peice face frame.
 

jar944

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Jar, your cabinets seem to have come together nicely! Is that just a piece of peg board that you used for a guide?

Thanks. Yes it's just a strip of peg board. I drilled out a line of every other hole to 5/16" to match the router bushing o.d.

The bit is just a kreg shelf pin drill bit (5mm), with the hex section cut off.
 
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jimreed2160

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I am continuing my cleanup and organization campaign. When I cleared off the workbench today, I noticed that my new ruler did not have a permanent home. But then I had an idea.

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I have a wire bending jig and a virtually unlimited supply of coat hangers.

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Hook one down, but need more stock.

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More stock arrived just in time.

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And now there are two.

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And now it is hanging off the tool tray of the other workbench.

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It seems to be happy in its new home.

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I hate to stop projects and go hunting for something simple. That's why I like to keep pencils and tape measures stashed all over the shop. A bonus of this large rule is that it can double as a loooong straightedge.
 
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jimreed2160

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I did heap a little abuse on the workbench top during that last glue up.

DSCN2631.jpg


The glue came up OK but it took a little patina with it and now the bench has unsightly spots. No matter--it is time for the semi annual benchtop refresh. I just wiped it down with BLO mixed at 30% boiled linseed oil and 70% turpentine.

The top and sides got a thin coat. As soon as I put it down and finished the end, I started wiping from the other end. No need to let it soak as too much linseed oil will turn dark over time.

DSCN2632.jpg


The final wipedown was with a paper towel. I put all of the rags and paper towels in the kitchen trash and dumped it. No need for those rags to sit around and smolder.
 

Craptain

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The final wipedown was with a paper towel. I put all of the rags and paper towels in the kitchen trash and dumped it. No need for those rags to sit around and smolder.



The bench looks good Jim.
But I have to take issue with this practice. Whilst I agree with the sentiment these rags and towels can still ignite, and in an un-monitored space, albeit trash. Far safer to let them dry in open air and then trash them. They will not combust if laid or hung flat.
 

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I've been thinking it might be time for a set of chisels. Are there any recommendations for some reasonably good chisels that can get me started without being too expensive?
 

mefast

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I've been thinking it might be time for a set of chisels. Are there any recommendations for some reasonably good chisels that can get me started without being too expensive?

These are the chisels that I've been using: http://www.leevalley.com/en/hardware/page.aspx?p=30029&cat=1,41504

I only bought the set of 3 to get me started, but they seem to be holding up well so far. Eventually I'll replace them with a more extensive grouping.
 

cheechi

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...But then I had an idea.
this post reminded me of Mickey O. Good work sir.

seeing all those hand screws sitting around makes me want to ask you are all your ceilings finished in the shop there? I'd clamp them on a rafter or joist if there's one available that would frustrate me with them that way.

seeing the fresh BLO job you gave the bench and the benchtop the other day i feel like i'm supposed to be inspired, but I did a bunch of other stuff instead of even cleaning off my existing bench let alone start the planing. I may just buy some 2x6's and do like you did with the fixit bench, this bench the top is not one piece they are all screwed down individually.

jar I am definitely stealing that idea for the shelf pin jig. I do have the kreg kit but that is pretty badass.
 

cheechi

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I've been thinking it might be time for a set of chisels. Are there any recommendations for some reasonably good chisels that can get me started without being too expensive?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000B8I9EK/?tag=atomicindus08-20
Full tang, made in England. on sale now $10 off $50+ order makes them come out under $50 for the set.

If you can find one of the older USA (WF made) Craftsman kits, I have them and like them. I don't like snobby chisels or most ww hand tools, both kits I have ironically the top tier of the chisel sets aimed more at contractors and highly recommend them.
 
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jimreed2160

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250--Chisels
My dad had a set of three Craftsman chisels in his woodshop when I was growing up. I never understood them because he did not know how to sharpen things. I had to grow up and teach myself and I started with all I could afford--a 3/8" Stanley #60 **** chisel. It was all I had for a long time and I used it for everything chiselly. Later I bought a set of Marples blue (England) but they were too long. I tried vintage stuff and even other Stanleys. Then I got into Japanese chisels. I like them because they remind me of my old familiar **** chisel. I acquired a few sets and even made some Japanese style paring chisels. But now my go to chisels are the Grizzly Japanese set of 10. I love those things. I beat on them with a hammer. I grind them on the grinder (pink wheel). I pare with them. They really work for me.

Cheechi--I am not happy with the handscrews under the bench either. The bench was open so I built a plywood box and attached it to the stretchers with handclamps. It was temporary until I could figure out what I needed. Temporary has been almost 20 years. I have dispersed a few around the shop. Once I come up with a good place for them, they will move. Until then, the bench bottom is pretty handy because it is close by.
 

Shiftless

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The bench looks good Jim.
But I have to take issue with this practice. Whilst I agree with the sentiment these rags and towels can still ignite, and in an un-monitored space, albeit trash. Far safer to let them dry in open air and then trash them. They will not combust if laid or hung flat.

:+1: to that
It is shocking to feel the heat generated by a pile of oily rags. More than one careless crafts person has lost everything in a fire started by oily rags. Lay them out flat not stacked, outside somewhere until they are dry and hard.
 
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jimreed2160

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Cleaning a handplane

So you found a treasure. What is the next step? I like to start with an assessment so I can develop a plan to put the plane back to work. Here is a likely candidate I just plucked from the boneyard.

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It is a Type 11 Stanley Bailey #5C bench plane. The 11s were made from 1910-1918 and are very desirable as user planes. The feature set did not change after this time and quality went into a steady decline. Find a good type 11 and you will probably find a keeper.

Our assessment continues with a strip down.

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The plane has standard shop dust, wood shavings, and the obligatory white paint spatters. Someone repaired the tote (poorly) with Gorilla Glue and put it back in place so the glue could adhere to the tote rod. Otherwise, the plane is in really good shape. I ground and sharpened the blade during a forgotten previous session and it is ready to cut. The plane has about 50% of its original japan finish remaining and the corrugated sole is in great shape.

My assessment shows that this plane just needs a good cleaning and tune up. I will start with the bent tote rod. This plane probably took a dive off the workbench that was hard enough to break the tote and bend the rod. I will use my HF anvil to make the rod straight again.

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Next up is the frog adjustment screw. It looks pretty nasty but a steel brush will fix that.

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I need to clean the bed but it has lots of nooks and crannies. I need a soft stick. Luckily, I am a ww and have a bin full of scrap.

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The stick is great for cleaning out hard to reach places without doing damage.

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The blade is not flat. I will (carefully) beat in into submission.

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Then I drug the bevel and back across the sandpaper for a light honing. It has a mirror finish.

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The chipbreaker also gets a drag. The surface that meets the blade usually needs a tune up. It should seat properly so it will provide uniform stiffness. And it needs to be a close fit so shavings don't get stuck in it.

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Stiff brushing reveals the three patent dates.

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There is white paint on the toe. A pocketknife takes care of that.

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The corrugated sole gets a stiff wire brush.

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Here we are so far. The cardboard drink flat contains the mess and keeps the parts together. I use the Spam can to hold the cleaned hardware pieces.

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Front knob rod looks nasty. It gets brushed--steel brush for the rod and brass brush for the nut.

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The nut did not want to come off the rod so I left it in place. No need to damage the nut and a frozen rod nut does not affect service.

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The tote was poorly repaired. I removed glue squeeze out with a pocketknife and used coarse sandpaper on the tote to reshape it around the repair. The white and green paint drips were carefully scraped off with a pocketknife.

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Then I hit it with fine sandpaper and cleaned it with turpentine.

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The cleaning is done mostly with brushes. I used nylon, steel, and brass depending on the task. Some people like to use soap and water on a plane like this. It works but introduces a rust risk. I like to keep things dry to prevent future problems.

Next step is to put it all back together and make some shavings. Stay tuned.
 
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jimreed2160

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Cleaning a hand plane, Part II

When everything is clean, I like to transfer to another box bottom so I can leave the dust behind. All parts get a good coat of paste wax and the screws get a tad of oil.

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The tote went outside twice for semi gloss poly sprays. While it was drying, I used a donor tote to do a test drive.

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Fluffy shavings were the result.

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And here is the cleaned up plane ready for work.

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Sometimes a bench plane needs only a good brushing to clean it up and get it back to work. For me, brushing is easier than more drastic methods. And it is quick. Now I can make more shavings.
 

cheechi

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why corrugated soles vs smooth soles is it the type of plane or the type of wood intended to be planed?
 
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jimreed2160

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why corrugated soles vs smooth soles is it the type of plane or the type of wood intended to be planed?

Marketing copy at the time claimed that there was no suction and also less drag. I think the real reason is that corrugated soles just look way cool. If it looks that important it must help. :thumbup:
 

mefast

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It is a Type 11 Stanley Bailey #5C bench plane. The 11s were made from 1910-1918 and are very desirable as user planes. The feature set did not change after this time and quality went into a steady decline.

I can't figure out why everyone seems to like the 11s so much even though I have one of them (a recently acquired No. 6C). Do people really like the low front knob that much?

I prefer my Type 12 as it has the larger brass blade adjustment knob, all of the features of the 11 (with the exception of the front knob) and even says Stanley on the lever cap.

Am I missing something about the 11s?
 
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jimreed2160

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I can't figure out why everyone seems to like the 11s so much even though I have one of them (a recently acquired No. 6C). Do people really like the low front knob that much?

I prefer my Type 12 as it has the larger brass blade adjustment knob, all of the features of the 11 (with the exception of the front knob) and even says Stanley on the lever cap.

Am I missing something about the 11s?

From what I can tell, the juice for type 11s is the beauty of the low knob. Some people like the larger adjuster wheel on the 12s. Some claim 11s have thicker castings. Both are really good user planes in my mind.
 
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jimreed2160

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EZ--Those look like nice chisels. It is a lot of $$$ but then it is a branded set and they are only about $26 each. Pretty reasonable.

I started with oddball chisels and got frustrated quickly while working on projects. Having different widths of identical chisels helped me keep my rhythm while I worked. I was able to pick the right tool for the job and also keep working if one needed sharpening--just go smaller and keep going. Once I learned how well my work responded to sets I applied it to other tools like screwdrivers and hammers. This set strategy also works well with handplanes. It really helps my rhythm of work to be able to grab another plane and keep working.
 

drivesitfar

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Jim: thanks again for the lesson on how to refurbish and clean a plane. just curious when you stick a 1x4 in your wood vise with sandpaper on it is that sort of your poor man's version of a belt grinder to sharpen your steel? i'm guessing with all the tools you own that you probably own a nice belt grinder with many many belts with different grits or is that on your wish list?

after i get my shop set up i'm hoping to find a great used Baldor or Burr King 2 or 3 wheel belt grinder that i think both of them uses Baldor motors. or a shop teacher in our area has a kit to make your own that ends up costing about $1,500. here's a few pictures of a friend of mine's shop teacher's plan built that he has maybe 20+ different grit belts for.

ALL: how do all of you sharpen all your chisels, planes, blades and tools?
 

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ez-duzit

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For re-shaping a buggered up blade I hollow grind using 120-grit on my hand-held belt sander. Then I use a couple of Japanese water stones to put an edge on them. In the field I touch up the edges using a diamond hone.

318BMY%2B13dL._SY355_.jpg
 
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jimreed2160

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Drives: I put the sandpaper on a furring strip so I could hone the bevel on a spokeshave blade. The posts stick up on the bevel side and make bevel work a little problematic. I guess a 1" belt sander would work for more aggressive cuts. This blade just needed a little touch up.

But sharpening is a good subject. My dad was more of a buy new tool guy than a sharpen it up guy. So I never learned sharpening at home. I did get an oilstone for Christmas (it was on my list) when I was about 12. It took me a long time (in those pre-internet days) to master it.

I will put sharpening on the tutorial list.
 
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jimreed2160

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The highs and the lows

I found this nice plane to rehab. It was a nice type 11 (highly sought) #6. And it was in pristine shape under the dirt.

DSCN2657.jpg


The plane looked like it had been used once to plane a door--hence the white paint on the sole--and then put away for 100 years.

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I brushed the parts. Most of the japan finish was intact and in great shape. Then I tackled the sole. After removing the white paint and some rust, something ugly happened.

DSCN2661.jpg


Polishing the sole revealed a previously hidden crack in the casting right at the mouth. Sudden death for the plane. Gone in a moment. It's parts will be donated to other worthy planes. Thus is the life of dealing with 100 year old tools. Sometimes they do not survive the journey.
 
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rrich1

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Rehabbed a Record plane tonight minus the handles. Slapped a coat of shellac on the front for some protection for right now. Still need to work on the sharpening aspect. First time with a hand plane. Short pic version of resto. 83966b547d5d14cc31d1662c6dd09734.jpgf3e6860a57f5f5f4b8a11647a7cc4302.jpg9d19bececde1a4c89c04f9eee3d72c39.jpgcdbd4784608b87fa4f69878b5709fd29.jpg49befd63327e55c2c09fea1a72ab6f54.jpg4629c7b36f0ca54d417ee38f57741be6.jpg

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
 

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happymachinist

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Rich, the plane looks great!

I recently picked up a Stanley #7 in pretty rough shape. I stripped it down and have been in the process of restoring it. The Japanning was in real rough shape and as blasphemous as the purists may think it is I blasted and powder coated the sole.

I read about Japanning and thought about giving it a try but I've been powder coating as a hobby for the last 8 years and had black so for me it was a no brainer. I'm not concerned with monetary value or authenticity, I just want it to look good.

All's that's left is finishing the knob, tote and flatten the sole. The tote had a chunk missing so I milled a radius on both sides and plan on gluing in some half round dowels and smoothing them to the contour of the handle.

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