Woodworking 101--Tools and Tips

[CRSINMICH]

Paul: Very nicely done! In order to get the glassy finish you're after you will have to fill the grain. It's not a difficult process but it is very time consuming. I haven't done it for some time but one of the tricks that I remember is to apply the filler with something like a wide plastic putty knife. Work the filler into the pores of the wood and then remove the excess by dragging the putty knife diagonally across the grain of the wood. If you go with the grain it could actually pull some of the filler back out of the pores. I haven't looked but I expect that there are You Tube videos about using grain fillers.

I once did a hand rubbed finish on the top a sofa table that was only a little bigger than the top of one of your cabinets. That process began with filling the pores. The whole thing took a long time to complete but 30 years later I'm still glad I did it. You've put a lot of time into these cabinets already. They're worth putting in some more. Good job!

 

[jimreed2160]

Paul--Outstanding project for your daughters and their lucky friend. Those are multi-generational projects. I have dollhouses that have seen many generations of little girl's hands and it is gratifying.

I wish I could help with filling but have no experience in that area. But I am sure you will find some on line advise that is both helpful and contradictory. My suggestion is that you test the whole process on some scrap before you tear into those nice dressers. It will help you figure out materials and techniques and also provide good practice. Good luck.

 

[jimreed2160]

More desk work

WooHoo!
I am declaring this "Hump Day" for the desk. I have solved some of the major issues that halted my progress for over ten years. You remember the dowel pegs for the base? Well they are in place and fit just right.

Over the years I have repaired many case goods and injured feet were high on the list. Most feet are fragile and break when the case is moved. I made mine very stout with extra glue blocks but also made the base removable to protect it during moves.

Here is the base in place, although upside down.

When I flipped it over, I was reminded of how this project started.

I walked into Atlanta Hardwoods one day and saw this magnificent cherry board. It was 16-17" wide and twelve feet long. It had a great swirly knot near the end. I fell in love with it and had them cut it at 7 ft so it would fit in my Ranger bed. There was no immediate project in mind, but I knew I could come up with something.

Anyway, here is the desk on its base.

I made the inner frame from some stout poplar.

The next job was to attach part of the drawer slide and frontpiece trim. I glued it into place and held it with two finish nails that were hidden in the groove. It hangs over into the front panel space about 1/16" and the panel fits right up against the little corner created by the overhang.

This trim serves several purposes. It conceals the drawer slide pocket and also conceals the butted edge of the front panel. If you use finish nails, be sure you have the proper sized nail set so you can set the heads below the wood. In this case, the set nail heads are almost invisible because I set them in the trim.

Here is the finished panel.

The last item was to fasten the bottom of the secret compartment. Remember that last time it was forced backward and knocked out the back panel. Well that is fixed now.

The next item is to remove the bent nails and reattach the rear panel. Then I can set the slides in place. Progress, progress, progress. I am happy.

 

[Shiftless]

I just picked up this plane yesterday at a flea market in the high desert town of Carson City, NV.
Can anybody recognize it? It is 9 1/2 inches long.

 

[jimreed2160]

Shift--It is a HOBEL, the German noun for woodworking plane. That is a very old design and is in the common #4 Bailey size. Sharpen the blade and get a stick to tap the blade into place. I have several planes like this made by ECE and Ulmia. They are easy to use and are very comfortable to hold. Good luck making shavings.

 

[Shiftless]

Thanks Jim!

 

[rrich1]

Did some work today. Got the walnut restacked with 3/4" stickers. My son Owen was all about helping me put the stickers on. He was a big help and let me know ow it too. This walnut has some awesome color and I cannot wait to use it.

Also made some progress on the table saw sled. I had to stop. My cutters were not liking having to cut the screws and my Dremel was already broke. Will need to figure out another way to cut the screws for the t track.



Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

 

[jimreed2160]

rrich--That's a nice stack of wood with an exceptional helper. Your sled is looking good too.

I do have experience cutting steel and bolts--having cut through miles of it while making plane blades and cutters. My suggestion is to pick up a B&D angle grinder (less than $30) and get some good cutoff wheels (not the HF stuff). Put the bolt in a vise and cut away. Make sure you have eye protection because sparks will fly. Ear protection also. I started with Dremel but soon graduated to the bigger stuff and never looked back. Good luck.

 

[jimreed2160]

More desk work

It is time to work on the fall front supports. They are just boards that live in a slot and can be pulled out when needed. Here is an inside shot. One of them is a little sticky and I need to worry out the slot.

OK. It was more than a little worrying. I needed to plane the support--quite a bit. But the LN #62 did a great job.

It took three trips to the garage to get it just right. Working on furniture in the living room is not the dream it may seem. Here is a shot from the inside. The support is held in the slot by a dowel stop pin. The hole is pretty tight and I plan not to glue it. That will make repairs easier if they are needed in the future.

And then I tacked the trim on the end of the support.

And then I re-installed the pigeonhole assembly. Two finish nails at the end holds it in place.

Looking more like a desk every day. I am busy tomorrow with errands for The Queen but hope to squeeze in some time at the glass shop. Stay tuned.

 

[R_einan]

Caught a nice Craigslist score today, couple 24" Jorgensen cabinet master parallel clamps, took them home for $30. Will make a nice addition to my slowly growing clamp collection. It's amazing how many of these things you find you need and how expensive they are new.

Desk is looking nice Jim, good work on solving all the little problems. Should be a nice unit when you are done with it.

 

[jimreed2160]

R--Thanks for the kind words. It really feels good to put this project to bed after so long. I will be a little sorry to see it go. But there are several more in need of attention.

Good score on your clamps--they look brand new. It is not too early to start dropping Christmas gift hints. Just make sure the family understands that clamps need to be in pairs. Good thing is that there are many price points and even the small ones are very handy.

 

[rrich1]

Got the sled done except for rounding over the edges and putting a coat of finish on it. I realized after I had it all done that I made it wrong. I was supposed to have the larger side on the left and not the right. Now sure how I did that. Oh well. It will still work the same. Might even help me out as the right side is basically up against a wall when I have the saw out. Cu woodshop was out of right to left tape measures. I'll pick one up here soon. Also still need to make the triangle for the miter and box for the blade cover.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

 

[jimreed2160]

rrich--Nice looking sled. Good job.

 

[Notgrownup]

I wasn't sure what this was but googled it... I could use this sled...easy project, I guess just make sure it's square right!

 

[ScottsGT]

Here's something I threw together over the weekend using scrap wood. My garage is a storage disaster, and just getting the charger and batteries all in one location is a major stepping stone in the right direction.

I left some empty space to the left because I am planning on replacing my gas yard tools with the M18 lineup eventually. I'll need space for those batteries too!

 

[R_einan]

Well, got each pair of legs attached to the short side aprons, took the clamps off this morning. Next step will be trimming the long side aprons down an inch measuring and drilling them before I can finish assembling the base. I'm not decided how I want to attach the top just yet, being a smaller table, I was considering a dowel on each leg and glueing the the base to the top. My other option is blocks to screw the top and the aprons together. I'm leaning towards a solid piece with no fasteners at the moment.

 

[jimreed2160]

Scotts--Not seeing your photos but interested in the project. I need one too.

R--Table is looking good. I have repaired a truckload of antique tables and the most common problem is split tops. Wood moves more than you might think and a solidly attached top will undergo much stress. I like to use "Z" clips. Rockler and others have them. Just put a slot in middle of each apron. You can drill it out or use a mini biscuit jointer like I do. Then screw the clip to the top. It works well and also allows the top to float. No splits in my project tops.

 

[R_einan]

Scotts--Not seeing your photos but interested in the project. I need one too.

R--Table is looking good. I have repaired a truckload of antique tables and the most common problem is split tops. Wood moves more than you might think and a solidly attached top will undergo much stress. I like to use "Z" clips. Rockler and others have them. Just put a slot in middle of each apron. You can drill it out or use a mini biscuit jointer like I do. Then screw the clip to the top. It works well and also allows the top to float. No splits in my project tops.

I started looking deeper into how wood moves based on relative humidity, luckily my climate is VERY dry here in southeastern Washington. Combining that with the narrow width of my table top at 12.25", I'm not inclined to think I will have more than 1/16 of an inch of movement across the width of the table top. Are you sure that allowing some form of mechanical movement is necessary in a piece this small?

I hadn't factored for movement in the design. I am glad I haven't assembled the side approns, which will be follow the grain of the top. I can still cut a saw kerf along them to install z clips or make wood blocks of my own.

 

[turbowoodworker]

RRich,
Nice sled, I'm sure it will serve you well.

Two thoughts on sleds, one is a nice option and one is imperative for safety (IMO).

1. Some will screw a piece of clear lexan or similar over the top of the blade track as a guard. Only minimal inconvenience is to slide stock under it. I don't have one on either of my sleds but nice addition.

2. Screw or glue a box or glued up solid stock to the back of the sled where the blade exits. The blade will exit the sled into a covered area. If you forget about the blade exiting and rest your hand om the back of the sled, well, let's just say you will need a bandaid at least.
You can test theory with the saw off, slide the sled forward with the blade raised. Watch where it comes out!

Nice sled.
Rick

 

[jimreed2160]

R--A saw kerf would be great for the clips. Put one in now and you can decide later. I reallllllly like Z clips for tops.

 

[jimreed2160]

Desk fall front

The time has come for me to complete the fall front on the desk. Here is the inside surface.

I never really attached the hinges as I kept breaking the brass screws.

You can see a big knot. It looks great from the outside but a little nasty from the inside. I fitted it with a cherry plug and filled it in with Titebond.

I found some suitable screws in my brass woodscrew drawer. Sure am glad I sorted hardware a few months ago. It has paid rich dividends in time saved.

This is what 13 years does to a neglected hinge.

The trouble I had was that the holes were too small. I planned to enlarge the shank area. But first I had to drill two holes (one for each hinge) that never got done originally.

And then disaster struck!

It was a simple bonehead rookie move and I knew it when I felt the drill break through. Luckily I caught it in time and did not put a hole in my workbench.

Drat. Drat. And double drat. This quick project just turned into a rescue and repair. I said a few salty oaths and rummaged the scrap bin for a stick of cherry.

The way to repair such a hole is to cut a pyramid piece of wood with the grain running exactly the way of the defect. If you just plug it with the point of a dowel, you will expose end grain and the thing will stick out like Madonna's mole. Here is what I made. It took two tries because the first one broke.

Next step is to smear the hole with glue and place the plug properly so the grain is in alignment.

Then you put a wood block on it and bash it with a wooden mallet. After a few good whacks, wipe the glue off and say a prayer. With any luck, the hole will turn square and the grain will match enough to hide with stain and finish.

So now the glue is drying and I cannot work on the hinges. But I can work on the escutcheon. There is no lock so this piece is purely decorative. I used the trammel and tape measure to make sure it was centered.

I made the brad holes and will attach it after I get the hinges done. Here is a mock up.

And I dropped off the top bookcase for glass. I thought seeded glass would look really cool and they had a nice sample. Daughter confirmed that said granddaughter is artsy and wants seeded glass. Turns out there is a full service glass shop just 2.5 miles from my house. Who knew?

Well, in spite of my bumbling, I am really pleased to see the progress on this project. My shop has been full of projects for years. So many projects that I will never run out. But it is really gratifying to see the major projects completed. That ww fire still burns hot.

 

[ScottsGT]

Scotts--Not seeing your photos but interested in the project. I need one too.

Seriously? I'm trying to use google images as recommended in the test section. I can see it fine from my end.

Is there a hosting site I can try before paying for it? I'm another PB victim. Then I moved everything to Imgur and discovered GJ and Imgur don't play nice together.

 

[rrich1]

Seriously? I'm trying to use google images as recommended in the test section. I can see it fine from my end.

Is there a hosting site I can try before paying for it? I'm another PB victim. Then I moved everything to Imgur and discovered GJ and Imgur don't play nice together.

If you use a tablet or a smart phone download Tapatalk. It is web form application that combines all your forums into one place. I upload my pics through there straight into my posts. No hosting website necessary. Much easier and faster as well.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

 

[rrich1]

Turbowoodworker: I have a small box dried in clamps right now for the rear of the sled. It will get out on tonight after I get off duty.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

 

[ztorres]

I think you can use Tapatalk from the web too. But I think it makes it so much better.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[ez-duzit]

Don't over-complicate a sled. It should be simple to build and easy to use. Keep your hands out of the saw blade.

 

[Craptain]

Jim. I am sure that your method of fixing the hole works well but I use plug cutters. From boat building and repair I have always had a set of plug cutters for nicer cabinet work. For repairing a broken drill I use a plug cutter to remove the wood around the drill bit, then clean up the hole after removing the offending bit and use another larger cutter to make a plug to fill it again. The method is basically the same as yours but I find it easier to get a match and good fit. Of course if you are going to hide it under the hinge matching might be a mute point.

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk

 

[GreyOwl]

Jim,
Set your hinge screws with steel screws to cut the threads then replace with the brass, it saves the twisting off of the brass screws.

 

[ez-duzit]

Use a Fuller taper drill bit for your screws.

 

[rrich1]

Sled is done besides a coat of poly. I got the rear blade guard box attached and used my Sargent 5307 to get some nice rounded over edges. Hand tools come up big once again. I don't mind running power tools late at night (and neither to my neighbors) but the router is a bit much at night. The plane did as good as a job as the round over bit did.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

 

[Lyndon]

Jim, and other ww'ers of note

Drives has been pestering me to post on here, but I've been nervous to because I'm only just starting out into woodwork, and at this point in time I haven't done much due to space issues. These issues will continue for a little while yet, but I have been acquiring tools for the future (and because I like them... )

Notably, hand planes, specifically Stanley. But I'm going to post this and ask some questions...... Maybe someone can answer them....

This was the family until last weekend :

There you can see 2 Number 4's (one US built, the other English), the English No 5 that is stripped down mid restoration, the new No 78 that I just got, the 220 and the new RB10 that I got for $6 on Flea-Bay. Then at an estate auction sale last weekend I got these 2 :

These are both Australian made planes, a "Gripwell" No 4, and an Australian made Stanley No 4 1/2. The 4 1/2 is some much wider than any other plane I've got. . . . :

I have been fascinated by this thread since it started, and am part way through reading it a second time..... Someone said somewhere here that the English Number 4's were much thicker in the body than the US equivalent, and I can confirm that :

And no-one actually does any type dating of English made Stanley planes....?

You can see with the No 78 I didn't know enough about them when I bought it, as it comes without the spur, and the fence.... :

But these can be found on Flea-Bay. . . .

And I had just finished the restoration of the US No 4, so it had just done it's first shavings in that first photo (detailed more over on my thread).

So the questions :

I understand there are 2 different fence setups for the No 78? Anyone have any ideas about which one I have?

Can anyone date the No 5, with those ribs coming from the bottom of the tote mount ?:

The person that gave me the No 5 aid it was very old, having come out from England in the 60's, and supposedly old at that time......

Also, this no 5 has the remnants of some high pearl green paint on both of the outsides of the body...? Is this a factory feature? Or has someone personalised it?

I'm set up to get the body of the No 5 sand blasted next Tuesday, and then I'll repaint it it black (Rustoleum - how I did the No 4). Or is this against some religion....

I'm also going to restore the 78, is there any reason I shouldn't?

And I think I have other questions, but they escape me at present....

So, over to the ww guru's.

Happy Drives (the missing one)?

Lyndon
From way down here. . .

 

[jimreed2160]

All--Thanks for your helpful tips. I will use most of them as I proceed. If I made a bigger boo-boo, I might consider a plug cutter but this hole is only 1/8". I have Dr and beauty appointments for The Queen today so I will be out of the shop until later.

rrich--Glad you were able to substitute a block plane for a screaming router.

Lyndon--Good score on your planes. Some of those #5 casting reinforcement marks are not seen here in the US. Blue paint was started in the 1960s here. My guess is that your #5 is 1960-ish. Good luck with your rehab.

As for your #78, those things have about 20 separate parts and are usually found stripped in the wild. I don't like the nicker so that missing is no big deal to me. But you need a fence and a depth stop. Once you get those items you will love that plane.

One of the first vintage planes I added to my collection was a Craftsman rabbet plane. Of course it came without a fence and without a depth stop. I pondered over that plane for years and tried (unsuccessfully) to get it to work. Those pre-internet years were not easy. It was over 25 years before I found out what the plane did and how it worked. By that time, I had sold it out of frustration. Things are much better today with Mr. Google.

 

[shortykorte]

Hey Lyndon. It's plain to see that you'll fit in here just fine.

Ok a ww 101 question. What would be the best wood to make shelves or shallow cabinets out of that will be painted?
Also, any preference in solid wood versus ply with wood cap?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[ez-duzit]

sk--solid wood (thicker the better) has all the grain going in the right direction for shelving.

 

[ctb]

Lyndon. Regarding your question on the fences on the 78.

The earlier 78's (and the Record 078) had only one fence arm rod to hold the fence. The later 78's and the Record 778 had a two arm fence to keep the fence from slipping.

Yours looks to be an earlier version.

 

[Craptain]

Hey Lyndon. It's plain to see that you'll fit in here just fine.

Ok a ww 101 question. What would be the best wood to make shelves or shallow cabinets out of that will be painted?
Also, any preference in solid wood versus ply with wood cap?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Generally I would use plywood and edge band it if it is going to be painted. That is based on cost and strength. However I do have some shelves made from solid wood and even though others cannot tell, I know that they are solid (reclaimed) oak. My bathroom vanity that I built last year is all edge banded Baltic Birch and it looks pretty darn good, if I say so myself.

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk

 

[jimreed2160]

Shorty--I will chime in here late with an opinion on your shelving. My answer is that it depends. I made some solid wood shelves with 1x12s from the box store. They are 48 in wide and the shelves were loaded with large books. Forty years later and they still look great. Some of the boards cupped a bit but none of them sagged. Chalk up one for solid wood. But I also made some bookcases with 1 inch ply that is 24 inches wide. They are loaded and have not presented any problems.

So if loading is not an issue, then I would cost each out and go with the least expensive. 1" trim edge bands 1" plywood just right and can be glued and nail gunned in place.

Good luck with your project and be sure to post some pictures for our eyeballs.

 

[jimreed2160]

Desk repair

So here is what I found this afternoon.

Sorry for the fuzzy picture but the patch is in place and dry. Since it is so small I decided to cut it down to size before paring. I used a flexible cut off saw. The paper is a makeshift cover I made to store it in. I used that to protect the surface of the wood.

Of course, I still managed to scrape some finish on the bottom side.

I pulled up a stool and gently began to pare away with the Japanese paring chisel. All went well.

I started with the Minwax cherry stain but it did not do much. The patch is light wood. So then I jumped up to the Red Mahogany. I applied it with a splinter.

It was frustrating because the stain looked good but when I did a wipedown, it stuck in the edges and created a big dark circle. That was not what I was going for.

I used the Mahogany and Special Walnut and alternated. After awhile, all looked pretty good. And anyway, the cherry will darken over time. Here is what I ended up with.

Pretty good with finish to follow tomorrow.

Well, it is 90 degrees in the shop and my nap buddy kitty is crying at the door of the shop. Time to wrap up this session. Next time we can get back to those pesky hinges.

 

[ztorres]

Glad I'm not the only one working on an end table




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[shortykorte]

Thanks Jim and Andrew. It will probably be winter before I start but definitely will post pics.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk