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Woodworking 101--Tools and Tips

1Garageman

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May 12, 2009
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Location
Columbus, Ohio
Made the wife a "lounge chair" for our deck. Made her happy! ;-):bounce:




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(I don't see how my pictures are getting turned, sorry)
 
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shortykorte

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Nice lounge.
I know any picture taken horizontally on my iPhone I have to rotate in photo library before posting.


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jimreed2160

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Tallahassee FL
Buck Rogers lives...

A ww buddy of mine sent me some pictures of his Millers Falls Buck Rogers tools. They were made in the 1950s but harken back to those radio days of the 1930s and 1940s. These tools, esp the planes, are very collectible.

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Sadly, I have none...
 

CRSINMICH

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Southeastern Michigan
Here is a Buck Brothers 2 inch toothing plane iron I picked up at a flea market while visiting relatives in the high desert town of Carson City NV.
CRSINMICH filled me in on some details but does anybody else have something to say about it?
If somebody wants to build a wooden plane from scratch, this is what you need.:bounce:

I will list it in the classifieds

Shiftless: I just measured the iron of my toothing plane and it's only 1.75 inches wide so I couldn't have used your 2 inch Buck Bros. as a spare. And, like I told you, I'm trying to avoid falling into the plane making rabbit hole - for now.

You should post some pictures of your woodworking projects, especially the cabinet work. I was impressed and I'm sure others here will be too.

Thanks again for the enchilada y cerveza!
 
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ztorres

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Iowa
I'm a newbie in woodcrafting, but I want to build a jewelry box like those on https://hmwoodenfigurines.com. I hope for a good result, so I'm going to present my wife with it. Also I want to engrave the box with her name. Having read your post, I have realized that it will take more time than I thought :)
Jack - Names and that are very easy and take little time to do. What took me so long with these cutting boards is the logo and detail. What I suggest doing is printing off a picture of how you want her name laid out on the box, and then transfer it to the box using carbon, now known as graphite, paper. To do this you put a piece of carbon paper down and secure it to the work piece and then place the "drawing" over top the carbon paper and secure it. Then trace the "drawing" and that will transfer it to the wood, and creates a stencil for you to follow while you burn the wood. This makes it easier and look more professional if you're not a masterful artist.
 

ztorres

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They make graphite paper which does same thing. I get mine from Hobby Lobby


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jimreed2160

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Desk

My goal is to work on this desk every day until it is finished. Today I sanded the writing surface and sprayed another coat of poly on it. I noticed during one of the trial fittings that it was not supported at the back. Over time the board will sag and look unsightly. So I came up with a quick fix. It required a piece of 1/4 scrap. This scrap will cover 90% of the span and should prevent sagging.

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And covered in glue.

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And clamped in place.

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I noticed that the clamps did well on the front but left a gap at the rear. It is pretty tight quarters and the spring clamps do not have a large throat. Luckily Amazon Prime came to the rescue. I wedged the box in there and it provided enough pressure to keep the board in place and snug it up.

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Of course this would have been a simple job if I had thought of it BEFORE I attached the pigeon hole assembly. Just chalk it up to one of those things that comes up with one off projects. It can be frustrating but I try to turn it into a challenge and keep marching.

The end is in sight. Next project is the pencil holders. Stay tuned.
 

ztorres

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I think tomorrow I'll go through and do a step by step as to how I burn projects with graphite paper. Jim made a good point that this is something that a lot of different people can use. I have a simple project to do that will be a great tutorial. Jack I think this will be a good way for you to see what's possible.


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ztorres

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Iowa
ztorres, I have the woodburner but not the know how and would be interested in your method. Mention where you get the graphite paper to. Kevin


I get graphite paper at Hobby Lobby, but I imagine any arts & crafts store would have it.

I will admit that in high school I didn't take art or drawing class seriously in any form, and I regret that. I realize how bad my drawing capabilities were but practice has made it better.


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jimreed2160

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Zach--A little tutorial would be great. I have always stayed away from woodburning due to lack of artistic talent. But your method sounds very encouraging.
 
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jimreed2160

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Desk

I went to visit my daughter and family today so there was little work on the desk. I did remove the clamps and test fit the writing surface. Here is the support.

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And here is the writing surface in place.

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It is the first time in 13 years that I have seen the desk with a writing surface. Looks a little odd but I am sure I will adjust to it. This is a real milestone.
 

Lyndon

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Sydney, Australia
Desk

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And here is the writing surface in place.

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It is the first time in 13 years that I have seen the desk with a writing surface. Looks a little odd but I am sure I will adjust to it. This is a real milestone.

Jim

Does the writing surface sit proud of the bottom plate (where the hinges for the front are mounted)? Won't this making writing on it a bit awkward? Or am I missing something? (And that's completely possible.... :eyecrazy:).

Lyndon
Watching from afar!
 

ztorres

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So as promised here is my tutorial on how to burn logos, names, dates, art, whatever you want onto wood using graphite, Carbon, paper. This process is nice and easy but requires some patience which can be difficult - trust me.

The first step is to select your piece or make it. For this tutorial I will use an Iowa cutting board that I made out of figured maple and 100+ year old white oak that was cut in two towns over by a family friend's uncle. I'm going to be burning my last name into this board, the wife wants to have this piece be wall mounted at our new house we just bought. The next step is to use a computer program to layout your design. I've used Creo Parametric, which is a 3-D modeling program, but for names or logos I use Word or Photoshop. I used Word for this project and determined font and text size; a helpful note to remember is that 72 point font is equal to 1" tall text. So knowing that I wanted 2" tall text all that was left was to determine the font style, I decided on Century font that has a bit of a rustic look to it which matches the Western theme that we have in our house.
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The next step is to cut away some of the excess from the print of your design, I use a straight edge and cut right below the text because this will be my reference line for placement.
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Once you have this you are ready to place the graphite paper and the picture on the piece. Graphite paper has two sides a shiny, glossy side and a dullish, gray side; you'll want the shiny side down - this is the graphite. Put this piece down and secure it using some painters tape; the nice thing about graphite paper is that it's clear and you and see through it. With this ability I am to translate the paper onto the wood line.
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Secure the text with painter's tape . You are now ready to transfer your design to the wood. To do this you need to use a pen or pencil and trace the outside of the design. You need to use a pencil that has a large diameter; I used a 0.9 mm mechanical pencil. The reason for this is if you use a soft pencil or small diameter the tip breaks and doesn't transfer as well.
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Go slow and apply a good amount of pressure; however, don't push too hard or you'll tear through the graphite paper. Another tip is to constantly rotate the tip because this makes it easier to follow a smooth line and not jump around.
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I had a video of doing this for a letter but I cannot figure out how to upload it to here. You'll want to do a little bit in a non visible area, or on a piece of scrap, to see how well it will transfer to that wood. It is good to note that this process doesn't transfer the same to all wood; for example this process works well on hard maple and cherry but requires more work for white oak. On this same note another important reminder is to try burning each wood species on a scrap paper because they all burn differently. Hard maple take more to burn but is easy to follow lines, cherry burns amazingly and easily, purpleheart is easy to follow but burns extremely differently than other woods. Once you have all the tracing done you can pull off the graphite paper and design. Be sure to check the design to make sure that everything transferred well, if it didn't transfer perfectly just find the lines and re-sketch it freehand - there should be at least a faint line there.
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With this all done you are now ready to start burning. Start by using a small ball point tip and trace the outline, again I had video of this but can't get it to upload. You'll want to use very light pressure and go at a slow and steady pace. Going too fast will not give you a good burn; going too slow will give you a very deep, dark burn that isn't always satisfying to the eyes. You'll want that pressure to be light for same reasoning; remember you can always go back and re-burn the outline.
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Be careful with certain woods that have very defined grains because it will make it hard to flow a smooth line. I've done outline with pin points like pointilism art, this doesn't look good on wood. The next part is to shade the outline in. Same principal applies here about slow and steady and light pressure; the nice part is you can go with the grain on this and it will go fast. If you put too much pressure you will fight the grain all the way through, and you don't want this because it will turn you away from this beautiful art process.
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So what are the key points to make burning wood an easy process?

1 - KISS

This is an acronym that I've heard all my life that probably stemmed from the military, but it stands for Keep It Simple, Stupid. Do this on your first few burning pieces because the first ones are more about technique and mastering it not doing extensive designs above your capabilities to start.

2 - Be the Tortoise

This is from the old children's story of the Tortoise and the Hare. Slow and Steady win the race, this definitely applies to burning wood as an art form. Slow and steady makes sure that you are not fighting the grain, it'll be easier to follow the lines both when you are tracing onto the graphite paper and when you actually burn.

3 - Float like a butterfly, sting like a bee

What I mean by this is don't have a lead hand, and apply extreme pressure, but at the same time be precise with your tracing and apply the perfect pressure. This makes sure that the design transfers to the wood perfectly and that your burn lines look exactly how you intend them to. It's easier for you to make a darker burn than to have to plane the face down to get rid of all the burning you've done and start over. Sometimes starting over isn't even possible without starting the project completely over.

4 - Practice and Learn

The age old saying "practice makes perfect" applies to all things, especially wood burning. Practice burning your design on scrap to make sure it looks how you planned, and that you're not getting to deep in over-your-head with the level of difficulty. Practice burning on different species of wood so you know how burning varies from one piece to another; this also will let you get an idea for what might look better for future projects.



If you have any other questions about burning please let me know and I will try to answer them the best as I can, or try something out myself and let you know how it turns out. I am by no means an expert wood burner but I thought I should share my techniques and let others try their hands in it and experience it and let people tell me their thoughts and techniques. I
 

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KMScott

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Thanks ztorres, I really enjoyed you lesson. Now I need to get some Graphite paper. I can see issues burning Oak and Ash with the heavy grain and going slow and careful is the trick like you mentioned. I will share this with my Grand kids since they are in love with my wood burner but just can not put the graphics down on wood. Nice job.
 
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jimreed2160

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Lyndon--You are correct, the piece does sit proud. It is one of the mistakes I made when I did not account for its depth. But all is not lost. Although I refer to this piece as the writing surface, it really will not be used for that purpose. The fall front is currently not installed and it is really the writing surface. Thanks for your eagle eye.

Zach--Great tutorial. I think you may have encouraged a whole generation of woodburners. Good job.
 
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jimreed2160

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Lonnie Bird Kentucky Cabinet

I found the plans for this cabinet in a book of mine. Lonnie is a Ky craftsman who has made some nice stuff. The cabinet has nice lines and I had some figured maple around so I took the project on during my job lull. That was 13 years ago.

I especially like the front legs. They are 8/4 maple and have hand hammered mortices. I made multiple mortices for the top and bottom. It turned out strong but not easy at all. I beat on them in my (then) basement shop for two nights running. The Queen was not pleased at the time.

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Well I took the doors over to my glass guys and they called this morning. They used the seeded glass and I think it is over the top. Well worth the wait.

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The picture does not do it justice. Here are some more details. I sliced up some birdseye and bookmatched it for the doors.

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I left some character in one of the top doors.

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Found some really nice amber glass knobs that work well. They look vintage but do not compete with the fancy wood.

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I was not too crazy about the top so I designed my own moulding.

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Need to finish putting screws in the hinges on top and also attach some sort of fasteners to all doors and then it will be done.

Thanks Lonnie.
 
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jimreed2160

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jr--pretty cool cabinet.

Thanks EZ. Here is one last shot.

There are three shelves inside. The bottom one is fixed and the top two are adjustable. I made notched strips out of a stray piece of spalted maple. The notched stick on each side provides a solid base for the shelves. The top shelf is not as wide as the others, so tall items can be placed on the shelves below. In fact, it can be removed altogether. All shelves have plate grooves.

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It came out pretty well.
 

olysteve

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That's a beautiful job on that cabinet. 13 years though? That a long production time, lol

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jimreed2160

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Miscellaneous

Sometimes it is not all about woodworking but the ww tools come in handy. Yesterday was repair day. First up was a night light from Thailand.

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Next up was The Queens broken mirror.

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And the third thing was a broken spatula.

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I was accompanied by the ubiquitous shop kitties.

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First up was the spatula. I had a leaker with a loose handle along with a really nice handle from a broken one. But the tab was still in the handle and needed to be removed. I searched for my cordless drills but they were inside working on the desk project. I found one anyway.

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Put the handle in a vise and drilled a 1/8" hole in the tab. It cut two long spiral pieces of plastic.

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And I was able to get a sheetrock screw into it.

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Then I put the head of the screw in another vise and got out the rawhide hammer.

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It got a squirt of hot glue and was sent home with a wooden mallet.

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So now I tackled the mirror. It was a spif (sales promotion) but The Queen loves it. I came into the kitchen and the magnifier side was on the floor. Seems one of the pins had given away and was missing. The side fell out when the housing came out. Here is the plastic retaining pin.

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When you are a woodworker you see the world from that perspective. I saw the pin as a finish nail and was right--it was slightly smaller in diameter than a #10 finish nail. After I hot glued the mirror side to the frame, I cut down a finish nail, filled the hole with hot glue, and forced it home.

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So I had shop success. The night light was cleaned up and repaired. The spatula parts live on, and The Queen's mirror was back in service.

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I was a productive day in the shop but it was hot. While I was in there, I did some prototyping. More on that later.
 
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jimreed2160

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Desk

My current task for the desk project is to make two pencil holders. I got out my Stanley #45 box.

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I ran some 1/8 grooves down a piece of scrap. The cardboard cutout is a rough pattern for what I need. I will make rounded channels for pencils and pens.

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I know this looks rough, but I am in design mode. It is pretty close to what I need.

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I think the next step is to sketch a profile on cardstock and trace it on the end.
 
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jimreed2160

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Shorty--These things really stack up but it is nice to get three in one blow. Good luck with yours.

Desk continued

There is an urgent need for pencil holders because they are holding up lots of tasks. I needed an arc and decided to use one of The Queen's old pill bottles. This one is big and fat--just right for what I need.

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I cut out the pattern and traced it on each end.

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Then I got out the hollow and round planes. These planes come in pairs--hollow and round. Each cuts the exact profile of the other's sole. So when I match, I like to use the mate. In this case, the #12 hollow matches perfectly, so I need to use the #12 round.

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The big chore is to remove lots of waste. It is too hard to plane it all out so I got some help from Mr TS.

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The deep cut in the center is a depth and centering guide. The edge cuts are guides. The other cuts are just waste removal.

For this job I selected my LN medium shoulder plane. It is large enough to make a big cut.

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The plane blade was a little rusty and probably has not been sharpened in over 50 years.

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I touched it up.

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After a few pulls, here is what I got--perfect shavings.

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Using the H&R planes is just working back and forth in a perfectly straight line. Here we are halfway home.

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And now we are done.

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Woodworkers often ask if the inexpensive Asian import H&R planes work. Too bad they don't. The soles are too fat on the sides. Most mouldings require very close work to the edge and that means that the plane is almost horizontal. Those planes just don't do that. Too bad.

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H&Rs are always fun to use. Just plane in a straight line and rotate the plane. After a while, the plane will stop cutting. That means your cut is finished.

Of course, after two hours of this stuff in an 80+ degree shop, I was finished. Sweat was running down onto my glasses (OK, just bothersome) and my project (ouch, not good). I guess you could say I put my blood, sweat, and tears into this project. But only if the tears materialize before I am finished. Stay tuned for more fun later.
 
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jimreed2160

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Tip--that 2 hours could have been a few minutes running the workpiece through the TS against a fence clamped on an angle.

True. If I were doing production furniture that would be the way to go. But this is a reproduction of a secretary desk ca. 1740. I am putting as many hand work details on it as I can. These pencil holders will be right up front and often touched so it will be nice to have some hand work marks on them.
 

KMScott

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1740, wow that is pretty old Jim, very nice piece. I understand the hand work you are putting into the restoration. I made a Ash entertainment center for my son and liked the shelf supports that your cabinet used and did the same for these shelfs. They are a strong support. Might be hard to see in the picture.

I just finished refinishing this drop leaf with the claw feet. I have no idea how old it is but it was in very good shape. It is mahogany and turned out very nice. I like how the 2 drop leaf supports pull out when lowering.

You must have a bunch of planes in all shapes and sizes. I enjoyed building furniture but did it the new way with computer software and machines. Wish I could have done it the old fashion way and would have if I seen your woodworking thread back in the late 90's. Keep up the good work.
 

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jar944

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Northern VA
Bought a williams and hussey moulder last weekend, managed to loose it off the truck on the way home. Ended up buying a new head and power feed unit.

It ended up being a expensive and really stupid mistake
 

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jimreed2160

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Kevin--Thanks for your kind words. Good job on the desk--it looks great. I really like the mech for the supports. Mine is all manual. I just hope granddaughter does not forget because the lid would not withstand such an error.

Jar--Sorry to hear--I know you are second guessing your packing. Sometimes those things just happen. Good luck getting it running again.
 
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jimreed2160

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Desk pencil trays

WooHoo!
Three hours and three gallons of sweat later and the pencil trays are nearing completion. At least the moulding plane part is done.

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One of my daughters wants to craft with some shavings so she is in luck. A big box of cherry is coming her way. The mouldings turned out great. One is larger than the other and I think that will add a little handmade charm to the project.

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Here it is in the desk. I just need to noodle a bit on the next part.

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I need one for each side and I would like it to be long enough to hold a standard pencil/ballpoint. I might need to shim it on the front of the bottom. And then I need to design some finials for it. There is not a lot of room to work there so I will need to get clever. I can feel a fever dream coming on. :willy_nil
Stay tuned for more fun and mayhem.
 

ez-duzit

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Jun 24, 2013
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Marina del Rey
Desk pencil trays

WooHoo!
Three hours and three gallons of sweat later and the pencil trays are nearing completion. At least the moulding plane part is done...

That's almost unbelievable!

Imagine that you had been employed by someone, working for an hourly wage, to fabricate a couple of pencil trays. And, 3 hours later, they checked on you and found you hadn't yet finished. Come on!

I see a battery operated tool in one of the photos, also that you used the table saw to make many cuts. So I know this isn't about insisting on making this reproduction in precisely the same manner as might have been used for the original from which this was copied.

Tip--use the best tool for the job. Even if you want to take a few quick swipes with a plane to eliminate the saw tooth marks.
 

Bigmichaelkim

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May 5, 2017
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My first project was a Paul sellers style saw horse. The fit and finish was quite horrible due to me being totally new to hand tools and sawing. But one of the legs at least fit flushly so I did feel a little bit of pride on that bit. Anywho I am trying my hardest to scribe the legs so that they all seat on the floor flatly, but for the life of me I can't get them all to seat flatly on the ground. Any tips for a newbie?


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jimreed2160

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Bigmike--Nice project. My grandfather had polio as a child and ended up with a club foot. He used a cane for walking but that never slowed him down. Whenever he needed a new cane, he bought one and took it to a carpenter buddy. My granddad stood in wet sand and pushed the cane in until it felt comfortable. The carpenter just cut along the wet line. Maybe a variation of that technique will work for you.
 
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jimreed2160

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Aug 7, 2016
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That's almost unbelievable!

Imagine that you had been employed by someone, working for an hourly wage, to fabricate a couple of pencil trays. And, 3 hours later, they checked on you and found you hadn't yet finished. Come on!
...

EZ--Thanks for following along and sorry for your frustration. This project in particular has had more than its share of handtool work, even though the boards were power planed and the brasses were made in a factory. I am sure you would blow a fuse if I mentioned working on the crown moulding. That took two full days. It was my very first H&R project.

I am a novice with H&R planes and like to use them for projects when it seems appropriate. Making custom mouldings is what they are for and I actually get a kick out of using them for that purpose. Part of it is using a 150 year old tool set and part of it is discovering forgotten woodworking lore. Of course, back in the day NOBODY would spend three hours just making a moulding for a pencil tray--they had to EAT. But a retired geezer working in his garage on a project for his granddaughter does not have those constraints.

I spent lots of time at my grandmother's house when I was very young. There was nothing to do because my toys were at home. I spent hours looking at her antique furniture and I guess that is where I got an appreciation for hand crafted furniture. She had a primitive walnut corner cupboard, ca 1790s, that had been torn out of a house and rebuilt to be standalone. That piece was pretty but close examination showed a craftsman in a hurry. The deep red walnut had 200+ year old tear out marks. They connected me with the craftsman of yore and I could imagine the craftsman making that very board. I was so fascinated by that piece that I always like to leave a few handplane defects on some of my projects. I hope that someone in the future will connect to me through those defects. They are my dinosaur tracks in the wood...
 

pfaustus

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Feb 6, 2016
Messages
361
"Anywho I am trying my hardest to scribe the legs so that they all seat on the floor flatly, but for the life of me I can't get them all to seat flatly on the ground."

First, find a flat floor or bench top. Second, take a piece of scrap about 6" long and rip it to 3/4" or 1" wide. Tape, staple or glue a pencil to the side, with the point projecting off the end. Holding the other side of the scrap to the floor or bench, run the piece of scrap around each leg, so there is a pencil mark the same distance from the flat surface all the way around each leg. Take a handsaw and cut to the line.
 
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