To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Woodworking 101--Tools and Tips

PugetDude

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Mar 13, 2013
Messages
22,364
Location
Superstition Mountains, AZ
I haven't done any woodwork since high school, but recently did a spiral staircase step stool which gave me the bug. A friend has a garage shop that was used to make it and I wanted to thank him, so I'm making a small walnut box that will have some things he needs in it (i.e. dowel pin markers).

The walnut treads on the step stool was the first time I've worked with walnut, but I haven't put a finish on those yet. Anyway, I've been stopping by the store periodically looking at walnut boards for the box. Not having any idea what to look for, and there are a lot of variations in grain, I just kept hesitating.

Hard to tell much when they are dry, so in the store I got my hand wet from the rain water on the cart and wiped it on the boards that interested me. Yesterday I found this board and I thought it was so visually striking that I bought it. It's 3/4 x 3 1/2 x 5.

When I got home I wiped it with mineral spirits. The pic is about 2 feet of one end of the board; the top of the pic is one side of the board and the bottom of the pic is the flip side. I cropped both pics and spliced them together to make it easier to look at and decide which would be the outside of the box.

I'm curious about the grain and figuring. I can see the sapwood and that doesn't bother me. Does anyone have an opinion on whether this is a good piece for a box?
Nice piece of walnut, I see why you selected it. Agree with crsinmich that it's going to be a bit of a challenge with that grain; might be a good idea to take a practice run with a piece of radiata pine of even MDF before you commit to cutting up that specimen piece. If you have resaw capability you might resaw a section of that fancy grain, flip one piece and glue it back together as a bookmatched panel (like your photo) for the top of the box; it would be stunning. The box itself could be made out of the thicker material, but the top and botton could be thinnner and set into a dado or rabbet. For a box this size I'd consider a sliding top; it would be easy to do with a dado the thickness of your top on three sides of the box, one end would be cut narrower to allow the top to slide over. If you have a table saw or access to one it would be a fairly easy project.

Good luck, post pics of the finished box(es)
 
Last edited:
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

67carl

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 10, 2013
Messages
3,893
Location
California
carl: From what I can see in the picture, it looks like a lovely piece of wood. It also looks like wild grain which can be difficult to deal with depending on what you're trying to do. There are many many videos on YouTube about box making. Watch a few to see what joinery techniques they use and how they deal with grain issues. Try some of it out on regular one-by wood before you begin your walnut project. You'll probably end up with some pine boxes for yourself - and some interesting scraps. Joinery Tip: Box Joints are called that for a reason. They can be easily done with a table saw but you'll have to make a jig first which is also easily done.


Nice piece of walnut, I see why you selected it. Agree with crsinmich that it's going to be a bit of a challenge with that grain; migh be a ggod idea to take a practice run with a piece of radiata pine of even MDF before you commit to cutting up that specimen piece. If you have resaw capability you might resaw a section of that fancy grain, flip one piece and glue it back together as a bookmatched panel (like your photo) for the top of the box; it would be stunning. The box itself could be made out of the thicker material, but the top and botton could be thinnner and set into a dado or rabbet. For a box this size I'd consider a sliding top; it would be easy to do with a dado the thickness of your top on three sides of the box, one end would be cut narrower to allow the top to slide over. If you have a table saw or access to one it would be a fairly easy project.

Good luck, post pics of the finished box(es)


I've watched so many videos on box making! So many methods and options it's almost overwhelming. Not only am I doing a test tun on pine, I also built a bevel cut sled, a miter key jig, sanding board and more. Just about everything I want to do with this box are things I've never done before. I've learned a lot with the pine box, both what to do and what not to do. I just glued in the miter keys and cut them flush today. Tomorrow il sand it flat then cut the top. Then on to trying to install hidden barrel hinges.

The box is going to be fairly small - 4 1/2d x 7w x 3h (not including the top), so book matching isn't going to work. I will be matching the grain on the left, front, right and back sides. I have a DeWalt job site saw - can only get 2 1/2 inches cut depth. However, I did resaw a 4 1/2 inch board with it. Just had to hold the cut side against my oscillating vertical belt sander to smooth it out. It's what I'll do with the 3/4 walnut to get it to 1/2. The remainder, minus the kerf, is perfect for the floating bottom.
 

Attachments

  • 4F3A55F3-B79F-46D6-B995-ACBBA5314375.jpeg
    4F3A55F3-B79F-46D6-B995-ACBBA5314375.jpeg
    281.1 KB · Views: 115
  • 5311C9CE-2C00-475B-8B05-497BE8891423.jpeg
    5311C9CE-2C00-475B-8B05-497BE8891423.jpeg
    302 KB · Views: 79
  • ADC08AC2-4E38-4BAF-B4BF-5CEE7F2ABDD7.jpeg
    ADC08AC2-4E38-4BAF-B4BF-5CEE7F2ABDD7.jpeg
    219.4 KB · Views: 65
  • 1C4AD4CD-D09B-40AB-ADAD-B49BFFE0871E.jpeg
    1C4AD4CD-D09B-40AB-ADAD-B49BFFE0871E.jpeg
    286.6 KB · Views: 61
  • 3B3F9709-3229-4A8D-832E-7EE64D7B93F1.jpeg
    3B3F9709-3229-4A8D-832E-7EE64D7B93F1.jpeg
    254 KB · Views: 69

PugetDude

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Mar 13, 2013
Messages
22,364
Location
Superstition Mountains, AZ
I've watched so many videos on box making! So many methods and options it's almost overwhelming. Not only am I doing a test tun on pine, I also built a bevel cut sled, a miter key jig, sanding board and more. Just about everything I want to do with this box are things I've never done before. I've learned a lot with the pine box, both what to do and what not to do. I just glued in the miter keys and cut them flush today. Tomorrow il sand it flat then cut the top. Then on to trying to install hidden barrel hinges.

The box is going to be fairly small - 4 1/2d x 7w x 3h (not including the top), so book matching isn't going to work. I will be matching the grain on the left, front, right and back sides. I have a DeWalt job site saw - can only get 2 1/2 inches cut depth. However, I did resaw a 4 1/2 inch board with it. Just had to hold the cut side against my oscillating vertical belt sander to smooth it out. It's what I'll do with the 3/4 walnut to get it to 1/2. The remainder, minus the kerf, is perfect for the floating bottom.
That pine box looks terrible; you should send it to me so you don’t have to look at it.

I’m sure the walnut version is going to be a work of art; can’t wait to see it!
 

HenryAZ

MEMBER EMERITUS
Joined
Sep 18, 2012
Messages
1,054
Location
South Congress AZ
"Spiral staircase" is probably one of those overused terms that has been officially accepted into the English language, and we will forever call them that. And that's fine because everyone knows what you're talking about. But it is really a helical staircase. A spiral is a two dimensional object, helix being the three dimensional equivalent.

Working in a millwork shop, from drawings, I've made all the wood parts for several of them (treads, risers sometimes, and handrail), but never had the opportunity to assemble one on the job.
 

CRSINMICH

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 15, 2015
Messages
2,397
Location
Southeastern Michigan
carl: l see you're way ahead of me on jig making. Well done. I'm sure you'll end up with a wonderful walnut box. BTW, in answer to your previous question, it's 25 year old Macallen. Got any?

Renegade: How did you manage to get the school hardware?

Henry: Thanks for the clarification. I try to use the proper word for most things, however you're correct - it's been called 'spiral staircase' far too long to ever change now.
p.s. Don't try to get 'butcher block' changed to the more accurate 'laminated" either.
 

67carl

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 10, 2013
Messages
3,893
Location
California
carl: l see you're way ahead of me on jig making. Well done. I'm sure you'll end up with a wonderful walnut box. BTW, in answer to your previous question, it's 25 year old Macallen. Got any?

25 year Mac?! Lol. Not even in the same ballpark as my budget! Priciest bottle I have is Glenmorangie Signet. I only bought that because I found a discount code that got me $50 off plus free shipping. On-line bottles discounted that much are almost always accompanied by outrageous shipping charges. Still haven't opened it as I'm waiting for both a special occasion and friends around at the same time who can appreciate it.
 

Attachments

  • 26724735-F0FF-47A5-9D5C-9A17A76F26C9.jpeg
    26724735-F0FF-47A5-9D5C-9A17A76F26C9.jpeg
    123 KB · Views: 57

CRSINMICH

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 15, 2015
Messages
2,397
Location
Southeastern Michigan
carl: We have a bit of an advantage here since we live within shouting distance of the Canadian border, well, at least we had an advantage before covid. Duty free shops have some very good deals but you have to stay in Canada at least 24 hours which is no great hardship. Truthfully, almost any highland scotch single malt aged at least 12 years is just fine with me. Money saving tip: Teacher's is a blended scotch whiskey but it has a higher percentage of single malt than other blends and it's priced like a blend.

We should probably get back to discussing woodworking so.... WHAT KIND OF DISPLAY WOULD YOU MAKE FOR A BOTTLE OF 25 YEAR OLD SCOTCH? Discuss among yourselves.
 
Last edited:

56vette461

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 13, 2013
Messages
492
Location
Northern California
25 year Mac?! Lol. Not even in the same ballpark as my budget! Priciest bottle I have is Glenmorangie Signet. I only bought that because I found a discount code that got me $50 off plus free shipping. On-line bottles discounted that much are almost always accompanied by outrageous shipping charges. Still haven't opened it as I'm waiting for both a special occasion and friends around at the same time who can appreciate it.
If your in northern Calif I'm just a short drive away to most places. I'll bring something, maybe a Sinatra Jack Danial's blend or ?? to balance the table.
 

txlonghorn1989

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 27, 2017
Messages
2,786
Fantastic work jar! Isn't that always how it goes? No one but you and the missus are ever going to see that repair to the granite.
 

CRSINMICH

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 15, 2015
Messages
2,397
Location
Southeastern Michigan
jar: The granite looks terrific. We've had granite countertops for almost 14 years and they have held up well. It's still chip free even though I seem to give it a sound THUNK almost daily. I'll stay away from stoneware though.
 

67carl

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 10, 2013
Messages
3,893
Location
California
84F03855-535C-4C3F-8D68-8454521691E7.jpeg
For the ones who think there is a thing like too many clamps.
This is one out of three.

I can't imagine who could possibly think one could have too many clamps! I just bought a few more moderately priced clamps that came with various sizes. When I opened the box and looked at the smallest ones i kinds laughed because they look like little toys or a salesmen sample. A week later I find I've used them more than any other. They come on very handy on a small box image building...
 

Attachments

  • BFD45F09-9F8C-4E0E-9C1B-E91BEC319CE3.jpeg
    BFD45F09-9F8C-4E0E-9C1B-E91BEC319CE3.jpeg
    276.2 KB · Views: 46

PugetDude

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Mar 13, 2013
Messages
22,364
Location
Superstition Mountains, AZ
I’ve got quite a few clamps. These are just the bar clamps and spring clamps, the missing ones were in use when the photo was taken.…B0C76B1A-0F6C-4A20-A4D0-52D28B167729.jpeg
Have another dozen pipe clamps, a workbench drawer full of C-clamps and a weld cart that’s overloaded with a half dozen sliding bar clamps. a bunch of Vise Grip welding clamps, and sheet metal pliers, etc.
All of them get used, just not all at once.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

acer66

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 4, 2010
Messages
4,418
Location
Western North Carolina
I can't imagine who could possibly think one could have too many clamps! I just bought a few more moderately priced clamps that came with various sizes. When I opened the box and looked at the smallest ones i kinds laughed because they look like little toys or a salesmen sample. A week later I find I've used them more than any other. They come on very handy on a small box image building...
Haha and yeah those can and will come in handy.
These are the smallest I have.
03B38C1F-D939-4294-B9CD-485DA9432D55.jpeg
 

jar944

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 26, 2010
Messages
5,905
Location
Northern VA
Columbia Forest in Old Fort
Yeah I thought it looked like it.

I've had voids and a bunch of sheets with thin /sanded through veneer sections / partial veneer bubbles. For the most part only in the maple. The c3 from HD is OK, you just have to inspect every sheet and cull about 1/2 of them. Maybe closer to 75% culls in the maple.. lol.

Never had any completely de-laminate in the core though.
Screenshot_20220104-113143_Gallery.jpg20200326_201026.jpg
 
Last edited:

acer66

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 4, 2010
Messages
4,418
Location
Western North Carolina
Yeah I thought it looked like it.

I've had voids and a bunch of sheets with thin /sanded through veneer sections / partial veneer bubbles. For the most part only in the maple. The c3 from HD is OK, you just have to inspect every sheet and cull about 1/2 of them. Maybe closer to 75% culls in the maple.. lol.

Never had any completely de-laminate in the core though.
Screenshot_20220104-113143_Gallery.jpg20200326_201026.jpg
Yeah, I always spend some extra time in there to get usable sheets or any lumber that is and this was the first time a delaminating happened.
A stack of 3/4” was the only nicer ply they had that day.
Have to go get proper ply in the future.

Judging by that amount of ply you have there you have a big project in the making.
What is that for?
 

jar944

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 26, 2010
Messages
5,905
Location
Northern VA
Yeah, I always spend some extra time in there to get usable sheets or any lumber that is and this was the first time a delaminating happened.
A stack of 3/4” was the only nicer ply they had that day.
Have to go get proper ply in the future.

Judging by that amount of ply you have there you have a big project in the making.
What is that for?

It's actually an old pic that was on my phone. I think I'm down to 12-14 sheets right now. That stack went into the kitchen(s) I expect to need more.

Finishing this temporary kitchen (used it while I was installing the main kitchen.)
20220104_121558.jpg still needs uppers, fridge surround, a pantry/broom cabinet left of the fridge and a hutch to full out that wall and replace the ikea cabinet there.

I still have a office fireplace/built-in (think turn of the century four square living room) builtin bookshelves for our parlor and then cabinets for a new laundry room. Not necessarily in that order as I think the laundry is happening first.
 
Last edited:

txlonghorn1989

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 27, 2017
Messages
2,786
I'm trying to build a user set of Stanley No. 750/720 chisels. This No 750 1/4" chisel without the model number stamped on it arrived yesterday. Bought on the big auction site. Far better condition than I was expecting.
IMG_3674.JPG
 
Last edited:

PossumDog

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 21, 2012
Messages
58
Location
SC

ROUBO STYLE FRAME SAW
I made a working prototype of this saw from construction grade wood a few years ago which I think I posted here.
I always intended to make one out of better wood and finally did. This one is made from cherry; very brittle cherry as it turned out.
It was all done with hand tools. In addition to standard saws, planes, and chisels, I used a beading tool, a scraper plane, rasps, and files.
The tensioning key/wingnut came from a garage sale. I have no idea what it was originally used for. I japanned it just to dress it up.

The finish is Tried & True Varnish Oil.

I've thought of buying or making a frame saw. I do not have a bandsaw.
Are you resawing wood? If so what width and about how much time/effort?
 

CRSINMICH

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 15, 2015
Messages
2,397
Location
Southeastern Michigan
Yes, I do use it for resawing. It can saw quite thin slices from quite large boards. Of course, the larger and harder the wood the more effort it requires. I wouldn't hesitate to resaw boards up to 6" wide. I'd try it on wider boards but I'd have to think about it awhile. It actually cuts quickly. Kits are available from Blackburn Tools. Try looking at YouTube video 'Resawing by Hand' from Tom Fidgen at The Unplugged Workshop. He also has videos about making a frame saw. Then, look at his videos about kerfing planes. They are made to be used in conjunction with a frame saw to keep the saw tracking straight. I made one of those too. Kerfing planes are not necessary but they help alot. Frame saws are actually easy to make. I made my prototype from 2-bys doweled together. It worked fine.
 
Last edited:

67carl

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 10, 2013
Messages
3,893
Location
California
I haven't done any woodwork since high school, but recently did a spiral staircase step stool which gave me the bug. A friend has a garage shop that was used to make it and I wanted to thank him, so I'm making a small walnut box that will have some things he needs in it (i.e. dowel pin markers).

The walnut treads on the step stool was the first time I've worked with walnut, but I haven't put a finish on those yet. Anyway, I've been stopping by the store periodically looking at walnut boards for the box. Not having any idea what to look for, and there are a lot of variations in grain, I just kept hesitating.

Hard to tell much when they are dry, so in the store I got my hand wet from the rain water on the cart and wiped it on the boards that interested me. Yesterday I found this board and I thought it was so visually striking that I bought it. It's 3/4 x 3 1/2 x 5.

When I got home I wiped it with mineral spirits. The pic is about 2 feet of one end of the board; the top of the pic is one side of the board and the bottom of the pic is the flip side. I cropped both pics and spliced them together to make it easier to look at and decide which would be the outside of the box.

I'm curious about the grain and figuring. I can see the sapwood and that doesn't bother me. Does anyone have an opinion on whether this is a good piece for a box?

I decided to save that piece for another project. The more I looked at it, the more I thought with the piece I wanted to use for the top, it would be too busy for a small box. I've had this top piece from the start and have a vision for how it's going to look. I saw a box that had some interesting figuring in the top and when they made it barrel shaped it really looked unusual and awesome. I've got the sides glued up and the bottom on/in, now I'm fitting the top. I've rough shaped the top in the table saw and will do a bit more before I take it to the sander to round it off. I love the way the grain swoops down where it was cut. Gives me an idea what it's going to loom like when done. It's very dark because I wiped it with a damp towel to better see the grain.
 

Attachments

  • BA0225C9-65EA-436D-8B68-3FB3D4C12ADA.jpeg
    BA0225C9-65EA-436D-8B68-3FB3D4C12ADA.jpeg
    260.9 KB · Views: 41
  • E04AE69A-9DC6-4066-B2E0-DF5ADB829B99.jpeg
    E04AE69A-9DC6-4066-B2E0-DF5ADB829B99.jpeg
    243.5 KB · Views: 60

txlonghorn1989

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 27, 2017
Messages
2,786
RTM, CRS, anyone: I have an opportunity to pick up some hand tools. There's an interesting and what looks to be a well made scorp. I flipped the pic and a stag revealed itself. Does anyone recognize the mark stamped on it? Thanks for any insight.
 

Attachments

  • scorp.JPG
    scorp.JPG
    276.8 KB · Views: 42
  • scorp2.JPG
    scorp2.JPG
    246.8 KB · Views: 43

CRSINMICH

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 15, 2015
Messages
2,397
Location
Southeastern Michigan
tx: I've seen that logo on plane irons I think. It'll take a while to find it again unless it's Buck Bros. and I don't think it is. I'll start looking. Maybe someone else will know.
 

txlonghorn1989

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 27, 2017
Messages
2,786
Bob,
I think you've found it! Here's a hatchet I found searching for "FWB stag". I found a short article by a Peter Follansbee talking about his German hewing hatchets. He mentions one his partner likes and it is also an FWB with an almost identical logo. Here's what he wrote about it and a pic of that logo...

"So all of these are oldies; but not too long ago there were excellent German hatchets still being sold in the US. Alexander bought this one at Woodcraft back in the late 1970s, early 80s. I had one too, but gave mine to an apprentice c. 1990. I haven’t been able to find out who made this one, it’s marked FWB with a stag on it. It weighs 2 lbs, 8 oz and its cutting edge is about 5 ¼” – it’s an excellent hatchet."

FWB german-hatchet-30-yrs-old.jpg

Knowing now it's FWB I can almost convince myself I can make those letters out over the stag's back.
 
Last edited:

txlonghorn1989

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 27, 2017
Messages
2,786
I found another scorp on Worthpoint with a similar logo and a draw knife with an almost identical mark. The scorp on Worthpoint is listed as "F.W.B. Fabrik Zeieher" scorp. Here's the maker's mark on the draw knife.

FWB draw knife.JPG
 

CRSINMICH

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 15, 2015
Messages
2,397
Location
Southeastern Michigan
If you guys thought that was funny, wait until you read this. The reason that logo looked so familiar to me is that 5 years ago I bought a toothing plane made by none other than... FW Busch and then forgot about it. I found it in an antique store in an area of Michigan that had a large German immigrant influx in the late 1800's and early 1900's. Two of them were my great-grandparents. It seems likely that some immigrant brought his tools.
 

Attachments

  • Toothing plane (2).JPG
    Toothing plane (2).JPG
    429 KB · Views: 22
  • FW Busch logo.JPG
    FW Busch logo.JPG
    573.3 KB · Views: 19

jasonbrendan

New member
Joined
Jan 12, 2022
Messages
1
Here is a random piece of construction lumber. It has a slight bow and a twist. We know the top of the bench is flat. Notice how much the end of the board turns up.

DSCN0798.jpg

Nothing else to do but chuck the board upside down between some bench dogs and work on that high middle.

We can discuss hand planes in detail later, but here is a nice shot of a beautifully thin tortured shaving. When your handplane pulls a thin and wispy shaving, its blade is sharp and perfectly set up. A little tortured wavy shaving is the best and indicates a nice finish on the workpiece.

DSCN0800.jpg

The plane is working and the woodworker is rewarded with a nice pile of fluffy shavings.
It's time for some woodworking fun in the garage. Back in the day, schools taught woodshop and every dad in the neighborhood knew some woodworking skills. Well, the schools are giving up on trades and dad is no longer a reliable go to source for woodworking knowledge. There are sites which specialize in woodworking lore but I hope we can deal with basic subjects here which will help all GJ members understand the useful skills of working with wood.

For me it all began at age two or three. My dad and his buddy were building a walnut desk in the garage but he also had toddler duty. Being a responsible parent of the 1950's, he sat me down just under the jointer outfeed in a pile of walnut shavings. I had a cut off stick and played in the aromatic shavings all afternoon. The smell of freshly cut American walnut is intoxicating and I was hooked. Fast forward many years and I am still making shavings and enjoying wood.

It all begins with a bench and I am lucky to have a European cabinetmaker's bench. My dad was pursuing his garage dream by closing in the carport AND the parking pad. It was there that I spied the bench one day in the mid 1990s. It was piled high with garage type stuff, having never been used for its intended purpose. I caught him in a weak moment--perhaps the guilt of never using the bench helped. Anyway, he helped me load it in my truck. That was quite a feat because the beech top weighs 200+ pounds.

It is an Ulmia woodworkers bench that was made sometime in the 1980s. There is a shoulder vise on the left and an end vise on the right. Square dog holes are evenly spaced for use by the six metal dogs. The top is dead flat.
DSCN0795.jpg

Flat is important to a woodworker because it provides a reference surface for projects. I use this bench to hold wood for my handplanes.

DSCN0797.jpg

If you desire to do some serious woodworking, get or make yourself a bench. It does not have to be the fancy euro model. I started with much less and got by. But looking at the attributes of the cabinetmakers bench will help you on your journey. Above all, a woodworkers bench must be sturdy and flat. Attaching a lightweight bench to the wall can help make it sturdy. Using a solid core door can provide you a surprisingly flat surface.

So post pictures of your woodworking benches and bench tips. Help beginners understand bench lore.
Reading your post reminds me a lot of when I used to live in South Africa. WW practice there is quite interesting. People literally make anything from wood. At one point, a little know guy wood dummy of a Landcruiser V8, 2018 model that TOYOTA had just unveiled. It ended up selling for $1600 to the first person who made the first order of the car.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom