The Vintage Craftsman GP Motor Thread

[BrianHayes]

Original on top. The replacement is still in need of some trimming. Honestly, the hardest part was cutting the band to shape after the turning. A 1x30 sander really helped in sneaking up on the finished dimensions.

 

[BrianHayes]

 

[Reviving The Vintage]

Awesome info!!!! These are a few of my motors to rebuild in the future. Well the top three anyway. The 1/2hp 115.6962 is for my 103.23140 early 100 King Seely drill press. The other 3/4hp 315.1970 is for a 1938 Craftsman/Atlas table saw I'm restoring. The big 1hp is for a future build of unknown origin.

 

[11b30b4]

Brian, those head bands look amazing. Great job and thanks for the pics.

 

[BrianHayes]

Thanks Jeff. Your videos were inspiring. I ultimately decided to remain historically accurate and went with the pinstriped stator band. I don't have a vinyl cutter, so I went with 1/8" masking tape. Awaiting a package from @mattblast to complete the band.

 

[11b30b4]

Brian, that came out great. I bet it was a real PITA to lay all those 1/8" strips down and keep them straight.

 

[BrianHayes]

Before and after pictures of my late FIL's 115.19780, with a little help from @mattblast:



Sadly, after getting the motor finally reassembled, I'm now in troubleshooting mode: starts up but immediately trips the breaker.

 

[11b30b4]

Great job on the rebuild. As for the tripping of the breaker, it sounds like you may have a short in one of the lead wires or you have something wired incorrectly. It could also be the Klixon. Here is a link to the Owners manual but I do not think it has a wiring diagram. Reach out to Hoorn, he has two of these motors and he may be able to verify the wiring diagram.

http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/222/5577.pdf

 

[BrianHayes]

Devastating development: I started disassembling the motor to check the wiring, and, I guess I used a little too much force. The terminal end frame broke free suddenly, taking one of the core wires with it. I noticed another break toward the left. Not sure I can fix it, or if a visit to a motor repair shop is in order.

 

[11b30b4]

Winding breaks ****. I had a Craftsman grinder that had one of the lead wires break at the coil and I never got it to work properly after that. The windings have an insulating varnish on them. You would need to remove the varnish and repair the breaks without affecting any of the coil then re-insulate the coil. I suspect taking the motor to a motor repair shop will be more expensive than the motor is worth. It will probably be cheaper and easier to replace the motor. Most of the parts can be resold on ebay or here on GJ in the classified section. Was this a 6962 motor? there is always a market for parts for the 6962 motor. I keep watch on my local FB and CL for these motors and buy them when they pop up and the price is right.

 

[BrianHayes]

Thank you for your condolences. I just returned from the motor repair shop, where I was told it would be a minimum of $1000 to rewind the motor. So since returning, I purchased a replacement 115.19780 from eBay for a whole lot less. I'd rather be restoring than replacing, but I don't see an alternative.

 

[ching0n]

Edit: used replacement capacitor, problem persists. My meter is bad or auto-ranging not working for capacitor test. By shorting/spark test, old capacitor packs a larger punch (it's also twice the size, I'd say avoid the one listed below).

I got this on a 150 (113.12130); dual shaft 5/8 keyed and 1/2 flat, capacitor hums quite a bit so I pulled it and it tests as dead. Found 6$ replacements on ebay; slightly narrower and one farad short (link below; will report if there's issues once I get it). I believe this dates my drill press to late 60's?

Packard PMJ324B Start Capacitor 324-388 MFD 110-125 Volt 840899105697 | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Packard PMJ324B Start Capacitor 324-388 MFD 110-125 Volt at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

 

[FrankLee]

I believe this dates my drill press to late 60's?

1966, maybe early '67, was the last model year for the Craftsman 150.


There is a date code in the "MFG.NO." box in the lower left corner of the badge. I can't make yours out.
This 113.12110 motor's date code is D6797. The D67 is April 1967. I'm not sure what the "97" signifies.


This style of Craftsman motor is the very easiest to dismantle and clean, whether split phase or capacitor start, sleeve bearing or ball bearing, thermally protected or not. I've got another 113.12110 apart at the moment. This one is dated H6497 or August 1964.

Here are 100+ photos of a 113.19665 refurb.


Airstar Supply is another good source for US made capacitors with free shipping on many items.

Airstar Supply | Solutions for Today's HVAC Problems

www.airstarsupply.com

 

[ching0n]

Thank you for your condolences. I just returned from the motor repair shop, where I was told it would be a minimum of $1000 to rewind the motor. So since returning, I purchased a replacement 115.19780 from eBay for a whole lot less. I'd rather be restoring than replacing, but I don't see an alternative.

If you could separate the wiring enough from the others, you could probably sand off the laquer, solder, and re-laquer/shrink tube? Even if you don't get it tight against the winding, I don't think you'd impact the magnetic flux much?

 

[ching0n]

Edit: used replacement capacitor, problem persists. My meter is bad or auto-ranging not working for capacitor test. By shorting/spark test, old capacitor packs a larger punch (it's also twice the size, I'd say avoid the one listed below).

I got this on a 150 (113.12130); dual shaft 5/8 keyed and 1/2 flat, capacitor hums quite a bit so I pulled it and it tests as dead. Found 6$ replacements on ebay; slightly narrower and one farad short (link below; will report if there's issues once I get it). I believe this dates my drill press to late 60's?

Packard PMJ324B Start Capacitor 324-388 MFD 110-125 Volt 840899105697 | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Packard PMJ324B Start Capacitor 324-388 MFD 110-125 Volt at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

I got replacement in there. Vibration persists and it's coming from the armature after all, not the cap. If I tap the motor in different areas the noise comes and goes. I tried old and new and to my surprise the older cap let out a bigger spark when I shorted to discharge which led me to believe that my meter is bad (new cap also tests as dead though they could simply be outside the meter's range). With the old cap I got consistent centrifugal switch disengagement but now it seems intermittent so maybe something's sticking?

I'd say avoid the cap I bought (edited original comment) based on spark test.

 

[ching0n]

I got replacement in there. Vibration persists and it's coming from the armature after all, not the cap. If I tap the motor in different areas the noise comes and goes. I tried old and new and to my surprise the older cap let out a bigger spark when I shorted to discharge which led me to believe that my meter is bad (new cap also tests as dead though they could simply be outside the meter's range). With the old cap I got consistent centrifugal switch disengagement but now it seems intermittent so maybe something's sticking?

I'd say avoid the cap I bought (edited original comment) based on spark test.

The centrifugal switch was sticking as I suspected (could hear it disengage a few seconds after a dead stop instead of @ low rpm). I don't think this motor is even broken in and the sliding mechanism was not retracting as it would if more worn. I gave the felt pads on the metal hinges a squirt of oil and lubed the sliding surfaces w/silicone lubricant. Contact cleaner on the contacts w/a piece of cardboard to rub it in followed by contact grease. Cleaned bearing bores of dry grease and gave them a squirt of lithium grease. All quiet now.

 

[Reviving The Vintage]

Wow, you guys have some really cool looking motors. I love the older Craftsman (30s and 40s) motors. Thank you all for sharing.

I finished rebuilding another 115 motor for my 150 drill press. here is a pic of the motor with the sardine can capacitor.

And this is that motor assembled.

113.19063

The 113.19063 is a beast of a motor. This motor is a 1 HP capacitor start, 3450 RPM, 115/230-volt, 60 cycles motor and is reversable with dual shafts. The motor weighs 45.5 pounds and is 13 ¼” to each end of the shaft. The housing is 9 ½” long and 7 ¾” in diameter and the keyed shafts are 5/8”.

I am not sure about the age of this motor. I suspect it is a mid- 50s motor but the stamping on the data plate says 15A 33. I will look more closely at the capacitor tonight and see if there is a date on it. This motor was attached to my 113.27520 10” table saw. I relaced the cord and powered up the motor to see if it run and it worked perfectly.

One of the unique features of this motor aside from its size is the capacitor and where it is housed. In this pic you can see (through all the saw dust) capacitor is housed inside the terminal end frame. Both of the end frames are made from cast iron and the stator band rolled steel about ¼” thick.

The base on this motor is removable and previous owner did a fine job of splicing in the toggle switch (not really).

The original bearings for this motor were New Departure 77503 (double shielded). The bearings are 40mm x 11mm with a 17mm bore.

I disassembled the motor and placed all the metal parts in simple green for degreasing. I will add some pics as I work on the rebuild.
Working on this motor was a lot of fun and I learned a bit more about motors. Specifically, that for anything around the 1HP range you need a 1HP rated switch. The switch in this motor was only rated for ¾ HP and when I reassembled it, the switch was permanently on. I could move the switch to he off position, but the motor stayed on. This is because the switch was fused in the open connection position and is a common issue with switches not rated for the voltage and amps of a 1 HP motor.

I removed the data plate from the stator band and needed to redrill the panel screw holes.

I filled in the old holes with PC-7 and once the stator is painted you will never know anything was done to it.

I reached out to MattBlast to have the data plate reproduced. We worked together to build the graphics and I am very pleased with the final product. Here is a side by side of the new and old data plates.

Anyway, here are the parts being primed and painted.

And here is the finished motor:

Thanks for the interest.

I have a question for you on the capacitor for the 1Hp #113.19063. I was looking at the picture of your capacitor because mine is broken. Is yours a 193 MFD? The one in mine is. Thanks.

 

[11b30b4]

Reviving, I do not recall and I would need to pull the motor and open it up to check it. I can do that but it will be some time before I can get to it. For a quicker answer, I recommend using this: https://www.electrical4u.net/induction-motor/single-phase-motor-capacitor-calculation-calculator/

 

[Reviving The Vintage]

Reviving, I do not recall and I would need to pull the motor and open it up to check it. I can do that but it will be some time before I can get to it. For a quicker answer, I recommend using this: https://www.electrical4u.net/induction-motor/single-phase-motor-capacitor-calculation-calculator/

Ok. I talked to Frank Lee and he pointed me in the right direction. Frank has so much knowledge. on these matters. Thanks for your attention on this matter Jeff. "Happy Holidays"

 

[11b30b4]

Frank is an absolute treasure. Happy Holidays to you as well.

 

[ghostnuke]

Do wiring diagrams exist for these motors? I'm reconditioning one now, and in my pictures I failed to notice that two of the wires are the same color.

There are two that are just plain, no stripes. One on the top terminal and one on the bottom.

https://imgur.com/x70hLWy

One of them comes from the internal leaf switch and one comes from the stator. Which one goes where?

https://imgur.com/1SnPCo9

 

[FrankLee]

Which one goes where?

It depends on which direction you want the motor to rotate. Just attach one yellow lead to each post. Swap to reverse rotation.

 

[ghostnuke]

awesome, thanks!

 

[tubes_rule]

Wow, you guys have some really cool looking motors. I love the older Craftsman (30s and 40s) motors. Thank you all for sharing.

I finished rebuilding another 115 motor for my 150 drill press. here is a pic of the motor with the sardine can capacitor.

And this is that motor assembled.

113.19063

The 113.19063 is a beast of a motor. This motor is a 1 HP capacitor start, 3450 RPM, 115/230-volt, 60 cycles motor and is reversable with dual shafts. The motor weighs 45.5 pounds and is 13 ¼” to each end of the shaft. The housing is 9 ½” long and 7 ¾” in diameter and the keyed shafts are 5/8”.

I am not sure about the age of this motor. I suspect it is a mid- 50s motor but the stamping on the data plate says 15A 33. I will look more closely at the capacitor tonight and see if there is a date on it. This motor was attached to my 113.27520 10” table saw. I relaced the cord and powered up the motor to see if it run and it worked perfectly.

One of the unique features of this motor aside from its size is the capacitor and where it is housed. In this pic you can see (through all the saw dust) capacitor is housed inside the terminal end frame. Both of the end frames are made from cast iron and the stator band rolled steel about ¼” thick.

The base on this motor is removable and previous owner did a fine job of splicing in the toggle switch (not really).

The original bearings for this motor were New Departure 77503 (double shielded). The bearings are 40mm x 11mm with a 17mm bore.

I disassembled the motor and placed all the metal parts in simple green for degreasing. I will add some pics as I work on the rebuild.
Working on this motor was a lot of fun and I learned a bit more about motors. Specifically, that for anything around the 1HP range you need a 1HP rated switch. The switch in this motor was only rated for ¾ HP and when I reassembled it, the switch was permanently on. I could move the switch to he off position, but the motor stayed on. This is because the switch was fused in the open connection position and is a common issue with switches not rated for the voltage and amps of a 1 HP motor.

I removed the data plate from the stator band and needed to redrill the panel screw holes.

I filled in the old holes with PC-7 and once the stator is painted you will never know anything was done to it.

I reached out to MattBlast to have the data plate reproduced. We worked together to build the graphics and I am very pleased with the final product. Here is a side by side of the new and old data plates.

Anyway, here are the parts being primed and painted.

And here is the finished motor:

Thanks for the interest.

I love this, I know this a old post. I'm trying to get information on my motor which is identical but different model number. I actually weighted mine same weight. I can't find the parts list anywhere. I just had mine apart, because had a starting issue every once in a while. I checked the condenser, thermal switch and everything else.
Anyway awesome job.

 

[11b30b4]

Tubes, what is the model number of your motor? can you post a pic of the data panel? I may be able to locate a parts diagram with that info.

 

[tubes_rule]

Tubes, what is the model number of your motor? can you post a pic of the data panel? I may be able to locate a parts diagram with that info.

Hi,
Thanks for the reply, here is the tag.
Rey

 

[11b30b4]

Tubes, what are you using this motor on? The RPMs are 3450, for a table saw that is good but for a band saw or drill press that is too fast. I did not find a diagram for this motor but if your capacitor is round and sits inside the stator this this should help. http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/222/6042.pdf

 

[tubes_rule]

Tubes, what are you using this motor on? The RPMs are 3450, for a table saw that is good but for a band saw or drill press that is too fast. I did not find a diagram for this motor but if your capacitor is round and sits inside the stator this this should help. http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/222/6042.pdf

Yes is on my 113- 10" saw. The cap is inside, checked out reads with in 6%.

 

[tubes_rule]

Tubes, what are you using this motor on? The RPMs are 3450, for a table saw that is good but for a band saw or drill press that is too fast. I did not find a diagram for this motor but if your capacitor is round and sits inside the stator this this should help. http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/222/6042.pdf

Hi The link doesn't work at least for me.
Thanks

 

[11b30b4]

Im not sure why its not working for you. Go to VintageMachinery.org and click on manufacturers index (left side). Scroll and find Sears-Craftsman and click on it. Click on publication Reprints on the second menu bar. Filter results for motors. Do not use the search bar (top right) it never works for me. Use your browser's "find" (CTRL+F)and type in 113.19063. Click on the highlighted link then click on view pdf.

 

[Mintgrun]

(the link worked for me)

 

[tubes_rule]

Im not sure why its not working for you. Go to VintageMachinery.org and click on manufacturers index (left side). Scroll and find Sears-Craftsman and click on it. Click on publication Reprints on the second menu bar. Filter results for motors. Do not use the search bar (top right) it never works for me. Use your browser's "find" (CTRL+F)and type in 113.19063. Click on the highlighted link then click on view pdf.

Thanks, got trying to figure out why the link is not working. Maybe some cel phone thing

Rey

 

[Hideintire]

Could some one help please. I have an 80's Craftsman 17"drill press. Motor #71424. This plate is inside and I've never seen this before. No brushes. You can see the copper arm is worn. Any idea if there is a replacement available today? What is it called? Any help greatly appreciated!
Jim

 

[Cruzan80]

That is part of the centrifugal switch. When it gets up to speed, the "flex" on this disconnects the start winding so it doesn't burn up.

These kind of motors are not brushed...

 

[Hideintire]

Thank you. Is it available? Motor will not start without it. I can bend it slightly so it makes contact with ring on motor shaft and the motor will start.

 

[FrankLee]

It doesn't look too difficult to repair that.

Remove the terminal board from the end cap.
Spray the board with CRC Electronic Cleaner.
Clean the end of that arm with emery cloth.
Solder on a small copper patch.

 

[Hideintire]

Thanks, I'd thought about that, if it is not available.

 

[FrankLee]

I've seen some switch arms that were worn, but never that badly. My swag is that the centrifugal ring on the rotor never lifted off of the arm. Something seems missing or out of adjustment. Please post a photo of the centrifugal assembly on the rotor.

 

[Hideintire]

That might be...the points were touching when I bent it slightly to get it to ride on ring. Would not think that was correct. I'll get the picture asap.
Thank you!

 

[Hideintire]

Thanks again, I've learned a bit tonight. I think Frank is right, the ring may not be retracting. I'll post picture tomorrow of ring and also look to see if I can determine if springs or perhaps something else is obviously wrong.

Also, please forgive me for hi-jacking the thread. I should have started a new post. Will not happen next time!