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The Everything 3D Printer Thread

WildBill

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To gridfinity and beyond!

It is probably going to take the rest of the summer to do these bins, but I look forward to the process and the end result.

My wife doesn’t get it. Please tell me you guys understand that I had to buy a 3d printer to obsessively organize my personal hardware store.
I had 3-4 printers going mostly nonstop for a couple weeks printing different size bins for all my hardware. I was using my Flashforge AD5X printers loaded with the same filament in all four spots so they would automatically switch to the next roll as needed, then filling the empties every evening after work. Printed something like 500 bins, between 2-10 at a time depending on size. Now I just need to finish putting everything in the bins.

If you get tired this guy will print whatever size bins you need. The ones for sale are not gridfinity but he will make whatever, and is a really nice guy.
 
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ER70S-2

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To gridfinity and beyond!

It is probably going to take the rest of the summer to do these bins, but I look forward to the process and the end result.

My wife doesn’t get it. Please tell me you guys understand that I had to buy a 3d printer to obsessively organize my personal hardware store.
What you need to do is organize one of her drawers first. Then she'll get it.
 

loganb

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Omaha, NE
Great first prototype. 10 minutes in the car cutting some cardboard to then measure, 15 minutes at the computer then walk away and get this

20260704_203949.jpg20260704_203952.jpg

Cupholder inserts showed up...think it's workable

cup1.jpg

cup2.jpg


Need to figure out "retention" so the cupholder doesn't want to lift out when you lift a cup...combine that into an "anti-rattle" feature and should be good...ish
 

loganb

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I know engineering something is more fun, but have you considered glue?

LOL....I'm trying to avoid it but yes....it's the simplest and easiest for sure! Makes it harder to clean them out if they don't pop out....but I don't wash out the cupholders in my daily drivers often enough....I could also just make a TPU insert for the bottom of the inserts...

The simple solution for holding the insert in without glue I think is a larger diameter cylinder around it lined with foam to hold the insert tight and rattle free.
 

mike93lx

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Richmond, VA
I have a sheet of silicone mat that I keep in the shop and one of the things I've used it for is the bottoms of cup holders. It can make them quieter and maybe a little easier to clean, although a printed tpu insert with short sides would be even better
 
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ER70S-2

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You can incorporate three vertical ribs into the main part around each cup holder hole that bow inward for a friction fit. Another option is to incorporate three vertical slots into the main part around each cup holder about 3/8" away from the cup holder. Slide some curved TPU pieces into the slots for a nice, tight fit. The possibilities are endless with 3d printing!
 

jfleisher

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Marysville, Ohio
Use some of this to trim the edges of the cupholders?

 

burger

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Jun 6, 2005
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Erf
E6000 or 3M 5200?

The 3M 5200 looks like some serious stuff. The river is floating a tube to my house. It looks like it will stick any two things together in harsh environments. What's your experience with using it? Does it dry up in the tube after opened or harden at the tip?
 

kaymccampbell

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Feb 27, 2015
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Upstate New York
The 3M 5200 looks like some serious stuff. The river is floating a tube to my house. It looks like it will stick any two things together in harsh environments. What's your experience with using it? Does it dry up in the tube after opened or harden at the tip?
It's not something I stock. It does expire and there's dates on the tubes. Be wary.

I've used it to stick things on boats together. Like gluing down a fishing bridge or a center console or a hatch. I've seen it used to attach an ultra high flotation motor pod to the back of a speedboat. Strong, vibration, water and fuel resistant. I believe it's moisture cure. There is a debonder. I forget what it is, but it's something to keep in mind.

It takes a good area to be structural. Like a 3 inch band around the perimeter of what you're gluing. Both surfaces want to be clean and wax free. It's got a stupid open time like 24+ hours and a cure time about a week. Structural time is longer. I leave it for at least a couple weeks.

It wants warmth and humidity for optimal results. If you do it in a cold shop in winter, it'll wait to June to cure. Any time I've used it, it has been for a job, so I used it all. The only time I tried to save some it went off. But then it did sit for several months in an opened tube, so...
 
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