Tooling organization

rice rocket · Apr 14, 2015

lilscorpion · Apr 14, 2015

rice rocket said:
Watch out w/ the Plug-its, there's a number of documented cases on the FOG of connectors wearing out and arcing, which Festool continues to deny as a design flaw. What eventually could happen is you burn through enough insulation between the two poles to create a direct short and thus a fire...

Well hell...that *****. What's the fix, replacing the plugs on each of the tools every couple of years?

I'm mostly against hacking different plugs into my brand new Festools...

rice rocket · Apr 14, 2015

Yeah, I'm not sure, that would "fix" it, but has the potential to ruin a bunch of tools and cords before I notice. Though I haven't (visually) burned any plugs yet across my tools, I might be on borrowed time because I noticed my RO150 cutting in and out on my last project...

My idea was to create a short dongle for my Plug-It to Neutrik for each of my tools that's permanently attached on the tool-side, but honestly the cost to create an adapter for every one of my tools isn't cost effective and wrecks my resale. Maybe hardwiring (like you're doing, but w/ the Neutrik) is the better solution since it is reversible.

Also, the Neutrik plugs are $7 a piece, not $30 like the Festools.

Here's where I found most the info:
http://mafell-users-forum.freeforums.net/thread/310/inspired-alternative-plug-added-fear
http://mafell-users-forum.freeforums.net/thread/114/alternative-plug

http://www.parts-express.com/neutri...e1-female-cable-connector-ip65-rated--092-295
http://www.parts-express.com/neutri...rue1-male-cable-connector-ip65-rated--092-297

Strouty · Apr 14, 2015

Re: Tool Organization

That is great, I used to only buy milwaukee corded tools just for that reason. Most of mine are removable, but a few are not. I may take another look and see if there is a way to convert them using the Milwaukee plug.

icecactus · Apr 14, 2015

On Edge said:
Wow the bathroom has turned out awesome. I have learned a lot from this thread. I'm thinking of drinking the green koolaid and I'm curious if you have any regrets with buying the MIDI vacuum? I know that you get a little break with the vacuum price when you buy it with a tool and debating to go with the MIDI or stepping up to the next size up of vacuum. Also do you have a thread similar to this over on FOG? Thanks for sharing!

I have the CT48. If you're going to use it strictly in the shop, or 96% of the time, i would look into the CT26, CT36 or CT48. All 3 have same foot print, they just get taller. I love my CT48. I have the boom arm as well for it.

jeffmoss26 · Apr 14, 2015

rice rocket said:
Yeah, I'm not sure, that would "fix" it, but has the potential to ruin a bunch of tools and cords before I notice. Though I haven't (visually) burned any plugs yet across my tools, I might be on borrowed time because I noticed my RO150 cutting in and out on my last project...

My idea was to create a short dongle for my Plug-It to Neutrik for each of my tools that's permanently attached on the tool-side, but honestly the cost to create an adapter for every one of my tools isn't cost effective and wrecks my resale. Maybe hardwiring (like you're doing, but w/ the Neutrik) is the better solution since it is reversible.

Also, the Neutrik plugs are $7 a piece, not $30 like the Festools.

Here's where I found most the info:
http://mafell-users-forum.freeforums.net/thread/310/inspired-alternative-plug-added-fear
http://mafell-users-forum.freeforums.net/thread/114/alternative-plug

http://www.parts-express.com/neutri...e1-female-cable-connector-ip65-rated--092-295
http://www.parts-express.com/neutri...rue1-male-cable-connector-ip65-rated--092-297

That is really cool. I've used quite a bit of Neutrik stuff in the audio and lighting world.

Dick in Wisconsin · Apr 14, 2015

lilscorpion said:
Soldered the wires to the wires inside the drill so it would have a sturdy connection

Covered the connections with heat shrink

Nice soldering job. Do you have an instructional thread or YouTube video about how to get good soldering results like that? Thanks!

xyster101 · Apr 14, 2015

Re: Tool Organization

I will agree that Festool had some really nice things, but at twice the price of other tools I will bend over and unplug my cheap tools.

djbmusicworkshop · Apr 14, 2015

Not that Festool needs representation from me (I don't tend to be much of an apologist), but a lot of the burned plug-it threads seem to end in someone not making sure they had a tight connection before use. Still they could do better.

@lilscorpion, as far as the MIDI and the wire wrap, a bunch of folks (including me) buy the cord wrap part for the CT26 and screw it onto the back of the MIDI. Since overall size wasn't critical for me it made things more pleasant. It's not a perfect fit, but a small shim or some minor mod to the part would make it fit perfectly. It didn't trip my OCD enough for me to bother (yet).

lilscorpion · Apr 14, 2015

djbmusicworkshop said:
Not that Festool needs representation from me (I don't tend to be much of an apologist), but a lot of the burned plug-it threads seem to end in someone not making sure they had a tight connection before use. Still they could do better.

I was getting the same impression. I also noticed that some were also indicating its specific sanders (maybe due to the excessive motion or movement) and/or common in tools that were along in their life.

Here's my thing - I accord that any tool will have some level of maintenance and no tool will last forever no matter how much it costs. If the plug is the item that needs to be replaced (I've had to replace cords in corded machines too), I'll do it. Given how many times I switch the cord on a given day I actually wouldn't be upset if a few years from now I had to replace a few of either or both ends.

djbmusicworkshop said:
@lilscorpion, as far as the MIDI and the wire wrap, a bunch of folks (including me) buy the cord wrap part for the CT26 and screw it onto the back of the MIDI. Since overall size wasn't critical for me it made things more pleasant. It's not a perfect fit, but a small shim or some minor mod to the part would make it fit perfectly. It didn't trip my OCD enough for me to bother (yet).

yep, I've read that's a fix and plan to order one as soon as I remember while I'm in the store. Though it bugs me each time it becomes portable, It's spent a great deal of time plugged in and stationary this past month so it hasn't been a priority.

Does it feel solid on the back of the unit or flimsy?

djbmusicworkshop · Apr 15, 2015

I'd say midway between solid and flimsy. I've had no problems so far. The MIDI is the one I drag around... the 36 pretty much stays put in the shop.

I hadn't even thought to check until you asked. I don't notice it being flimsy when I wrap cord around it. I'm not tough on my tools though generally. But it wiggles some if I just grab it and try and move it.

lilscorpion · Apr 15, 2015

With the master bath about 80% done, what could possibly make more sense than starting the kids bath?!

The demo took half a day. Repairs about half a day. I began the fabrication of the vanity first. With my cabinet building experience I now have reference patterns to follow that help speed things up considerably. Starting at 9am I'm able to get through the second coat of stain before calling it quits at 9pm.

Meanwhile the tile guy gets through the first day in the shower/tub tile. As I walk into the room I realize a problem - the tiles on the wall are much whiter than the tub. Oops. We decide we can't live with it.

Apparently when you're tired and walk into the tile store the wall of (Aspen) white tile seems white so you quickly load the cart and get the hell out. The effort cost us a day in labor and some tile. A day later things end up in the right direction.

The kids bath is so much smaller and we're at paint inside the first week and the cabinet is in place during the second.

And shortly after the counters/sinks are installed.

It took me a day to build a slightly narrower version of the builtin for the kids bathroom and I'm spraying clear by the following morning allowing install the next evening. At this point I'm fairly tired and ready for a break. Fortunately for me I get to take one by going back to work.

Paladin306 · Apr 15, 2015

Like 10,000 before me, have stated, what an outstanding thread this is!!! :thumbup:

In fact, the word "thread" doesn't even begin to do it justice. :willy_nil

One problem that I'm having though, is somewhere around page 7 the photographs are no longer available. I am logged in and, up to that point, the photographs were a photographic gallery of awesome ideas. Is there somewhere else that these photos can be found???

(Sorry if this has been previously asked and answered as I am only on page 12.)

Mark

lilscorpion · Apr 15, 2015

Paladin306 said:
One problem that I'm having though, is somewhere around page 7 the photographs are no longer available. I am logged in and, up to that point, the photographs were a photographic gallery of awesome ideas. Is there somewhere else that these photos can be found???

(Sorry if this has been previously asked and answered as I am only on page 12.)

Mark

I had no idea. Can you give me an approximate post #? My page sizes must be different and my page 7 is good.

lilscorpion · Apr 16, 2015

General rule of thumb, if you pay for hosting you probably need to make sure your credit card hasn't expired when the annual bill hits. Apparently I did not do this and they had shut off my website because they couldn't process the auto payment. I'll picture should return shortly, sorry for the inconvenience.

duneslider · Apr 16, 2015

I am hoping there are some missing pictures from the tile install but I don't see a lick of waterproofing going on there. That is a leak or mold bomb waiting to happen if it isn't waterproofed, and no, tile and grout is NOT waterproofing.

Other then that, the tile looks nice.

lilscorpion · Apr 16, 2015

duneslider said:
I am hoping there are some missing pictures from the tile install but I don't see a lick of waterproofing going on there. That is a leak or mold bomb waiting to happen if it isn't waterproofed, and no, tile and grout is NOT waterproofing.

Other then that, the tile looks nice.

Like hardy-backer/concrete board? That's the grey stuff on the wall. Can't see it on the floor but it's there too. Unless I'm missing what you're noticing.

duneslider · Apr 16, 2015

Backerboard is not waterproof. It is more like a sponge and will soak up water. It should have had a vapor barrier installed behind it on the walls, like plastic sheeting or roofing paper. Or you can put a liquid water proofing membrane on over the top of the board (not visible). I would be particularly worried about the shelf cubby built into the wall, that is the biggest area where leaks occur. Its pretty tough to waterproof those cubby holes without using a liquid membrane.

Feel free to check out the backerboard manufacturer's recommended installation instructions concerning wet areas.

Joints in shower don't appear taped either.

OJ Bartley · Apr 16, 2015

lilscorpion, I am in awe of your cabinetmaking projects. Especially how you've managed to keep improving your procedures and methods as you go along. I'll be checking in here again when it comes time to do the basement and start on built-ins.

lilscorpion · Apr 16, 2015

duneslider said:
Backerboard is not waterproof. It is more like a sponge and will soak up water. It should have had a vapor barrier installed behind it on the walls, like plastic sheeting or roofing paper. ...

Joints in shower don't appear taped either.

You about ruined my morning dude. I had not consumed any coffee yet so I read "vapor barrier on top of...". I spent the morning researching why I missed that. My barrier is behind the concrete board between it and the studs/insulation. Re-reading your comments I'm wondering why you were asking b/c you can't see behind...

The comment about no tape - yep, it needed to be fixed. That pic was taken when I realized the tile color screw-up.

From now on its min 1 cup before reading.

Kevin54 · Apr 16, 2015

Scorpion......You are doing some absolute spectacular work. I love it, and I like the dark tones.

On the built in, how deep is it into the wall? Just to make it easier.....what is the width x height x depth?

I forgot to mention also....the tile work looks fantastic. The subway tiles look great along with the octagonal tiles on the floor. I think we are going to tear into the Master bath this year, and your build is getting the old Gray Matter stirred up. :thumbup:

duneslider · Apr 16, 2015

lilscorpion said:
You about ruined my morning dude. I had not consumed any coffee yet so I read "vapor barrier on top of...". I spent the morning researching why I missed that. My barrier is behind the concrete board between it and the studs/insulation. Re-reading your comments I'm wondering why you were asking b/c you can't see behind...

The comment about no tape - yep, it needed to be fixed. That pic was taken when I realized the tile color screw-up.

From now on its min 1 cup before reading.

Glad it was put back there, I hate seeing it done wrong and then you have problems later. I made a good living replacing showers that others screwed up. What about the cubby hole area? Those are difficult to waterproof unless you use a liquid membrane on top, those are the most likely places to leak and go undetected for a long time. Yours is on the shower head wall so it won't get direct spray which is helpful.

Your cabinets are awesome though, I am a huge fan of your garage cabinet storage. Lots of great thinking going on in there!

lilscorpion · Apr 16, 2015

Kevin54 said:
Scorpion......You are doing some absolute spectacular work. I love it, and I like the dark tones.

On the built in, how deep is it into the wall? Just to make it easier.....what is the width x height x depth?

I forgot to mention also....the tile work looks fantastic. The subway tiles look great along with the octagonal tiles on the floor. I think we are going to tear into the Master bath this year, and your build is getting the old Gray Matter stirred up.

Kevin,

Thanks for the compliments! I'll share them with my wife. She designed both rooms and is behind some of the combinations I never could have selected (but like a lot).

Dimensions of the built-in in the kids bathroom is 16-inches deep x 26-inches wide x 86-inches tall. Master has the same height but is slightly wider and ~2-inches deeper. Depth of both are based on the original depth of the closet they are replacing and ironically both are nearly perfect for the Blum under mount slides I wanted to use...which is why you'll notice there's no back on the lower (drawer) half of the cabinet. I needed the full depth of the hole.

I really like the way the subway lay in contrast to the floor as well though honestly I wasn't sure at first. They guy who did it did such an amazing job laying it out if argue it's perfect since I cannot find a place it's not (visually anyway). Very pleased.

Get moving on that Master!!

lilscorpion · Apr 17, 2015

Wasn't sure if this is cool or not but I don't see this side much on GJ - design. I typically draw up what I'm planning to build before I even make a cut (no going for it). The finished piece ends up being nearly exactly the same as the drawing - I say nearly because sometimes I make a mistake going between drawing and implementation.

Master Vanity Drawing:

Deviations: dimensionally I ended up exact except on the overall length. I was shooting for a final at 83 1/2-inches but landed at 84 1/4-inches. After reviewing the parts list I found that when cutting parts I cut one of the widths to 1/8 instead of 1/4 (my most frequent mistake on the table saw because of how the measure on the fence reads. That mistake cost me 1/8-inch per side and realized as 1/4-inch overall length difference.

Master Built-In Drawing

Deviations: when I drew up the design I made a mistake in the lower (drawer base) portion when doing math and ended up almost 12-inches strong (yeah, the damn thing was a foot taller than the hole in the wall). I found out when I went to install. Fortunately for me I was able to remove a single drawer and ended up perfectly. I still do t know how I did it but figured I just drew it wrong.

Kids Vanity Drawings:

Deviations: the original drawing/design called for a single piece but when I got to fabrication I realized I couldn't cut a +60-inch piece from a 60inch piece of material. One would think I would have caught that on paper but one wasn't making the part list, I was. I compensated by making a two part vanity with the left being sink base + drawers and the other being a sink base only. To do so I ended up inserting another "side" (nominal 3/4-inch Baltic birch width ~ .67). When compensating for it I took the full amount out of the right sink base instead of half out of both. This resulted in the door opening on the left being ~1/4-inch stronger on the left. Now I need to make slightly different doors...What can you do?

Kids Built-in Drawing:

Deviations: None. Get it wrong 3 times by adjusting during the machining phase you take a breath and make sure you get the drawing right before you start. It also helped the design was identical to the master built-in but a little shallower and a little narrower.

What I learned design-wise: ruled tablets ****, I ordered some graph paper. Not a single pencil in the house has erasers, I ordered some erasers. Triple check saw settings because a glance could be wrong - at the same time setting the saw and cutting all parts that should be at that size at the same time makes mistakes work. Drawing it out beforehand is always worth it. May make sense to do so a day in advance and check work the next day (but who's got time for that ****?). Having a drawing to compare to the final piece is cool.

Paladin306 · Apr 17, 2015

lilscorpion said:
I had no idea. Can you give me an approximate post #? My page sizes must be different and my page 7 is good.

Absolutely, Lilscorpion,

For some reason the train runs off the track starting with post 173 and continues through post 308 for your pics. Pics posted by others come through as do reposts of pics that you make from others. In other words it's only your original pics that don't come through for some reason. Here's a pic showing post #173 looks like on my computer:

Please don't misunderstand. By no means do I want my post(s) to be viewed as criticisms. You are a Master of innovative ideas and have filled my head with a plethora of ideas that would be great in my shop. And, your willingness to share and the amount of documentary that you've shared is way beyond outstanding. :bowdown:

And, by no means am I saying the problem is on your end. It may well be on mine but, before and after the posts that I listed the pics are fine. So, I don't get it.

I'd just like to be able to see what I'm missing if it's possible.

Here's my renovation thread for anyone who'd like to see what I'm unto:

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=256595

lilscorpion · Apr 18, 2015

Paladin306 said:
Absolutely, Lilscorpion,

For some reason the train runs off the track starting with post 173 and continues through post 308 for your pics...

No offense taken. Check now, they're back.

Edit: not all back. A few of the project pics seem to be missing from my website (http://www.3amcook.com) - probably from when my hard drive failed. I'm attempting to locate the originals so I can re-upload and unbreak them. Sorry all.

Turns out I didn't pay my website hosting bill (my credit card expired so their attempt to grandparent failed) and all of the pics I referenced from the site ended up dead links. Hosting companies do stuff like that to get you attention. The ones that do work were uploaded with tapatalk.

Most all links should be restored!

jeff g · Apr 18, 2015

Hi
Nice thread & a good job well made.

On Edge · Apr 18, 2015

Thanks for sharing the drawings. I love seeing other peoples sketches. I use AutoCAD for my day job so I tend to draw EVERYTHING before I start cutting. Even having a drawing I still tweak things as I build them. Glad to see you have the same problem that I do when making cuts and all. Just because you make a drawing doesn't mean there aren't errors when it goes to putting it in. Keep sharing cause I always look forward to your posts!

Paladin306 · Apr 18, 2015

lilscorpion said:
No offense taken. Check now, they're back.

Edit: not all back. A few of the project pics seem to be missing from my website (http://www.3amcook.com) - probably from when my hard drive failed. I'm attempting to locate the originals so I can re-upload and unbreak them. Sorry all.

Most all links should be restored!

Wow! How cool is that? :bowdown:

Just another example of what makes this the best thread, (and I don't say that lightly) on GJ. I am truly in awe of your creativity and attention to detail. You've certainly provided me with several ideas for my shop which is also a long term project. I used my Woodcraft $10 off $25 tax day coupon to go buy a 24" by 24" sheet of the "cutting board" material for a project on down the road as, right now, I need to find some time to work on getting my interior wood walls up.

Thanks again.

Mark

My shop renovation thread: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=256595

lilscorpion · Apr 19, 2015

Today I tackled the kids Mirriors. Originally I had planned making them the same as the master but found a pic on the inter-web that my wife took a liking to.

Since I'm recycling the Mirriors out of the bathroom I started with what was left of the kids.

Cut in half was nearly perfect for the space so halved they were.

With the siZe defined, a sketch was done to figure actual measurements.

Rough cuts were made and now it was time to cut the Mirrior grooves. I have a setup jig I made with the master Mirriors that unused to get the saw right.

First I set the depth based on the jig.

Then I mark (on the fence) where the blade starts and stops to cut.

The I make the side boards where the cut should stop and start. To start to cut the line on the board is lined up with the mark on the fence.

The spreaders are also run through.

The bade and fence are adjusted for the next cut

And the mark is lined up with the start/stop on the boards.

lilscorpion · Apr 19, 2015

A nick with the miter saw gets a clean edge.

Hammer and chisel are used the square the corners.

Since we've chosen the mission theme I routed the edges that go through the glue joint with the hand router. Previously (on the master mirriors) I setup the router table to pre-run all of the edges. It occurred to me this time all I really needed to do was use a trim router and guide bearing. Faster, way faster.

Pocket screws are used for assembly (2 per corner).

The pair are ready for color.

Me: Got the mirriors made for your bathroom.
Son: Which one is mine?
Me: The right one.
Son: Cool.

xyster101 · Apr 19, 2015

Re: Tool Organization

Nice build, but isn't this about organizing the garage? Why didn't you make the rabbit cut with the table router? One cut per board instead of 2.

lilscorpion · Apr 19, 2015

xyster101 said:
Nice build, but isn't this about organizing the garage?

Yeah hell, I know it. At some point I forgot the theme and started posting what I was working on instead of just garage related. Once I got off track I didn't know how to fix it so I just continued. Then I tried to change the title but couldn't...now it's a frankin-thread.

xyster101 said:
Why didn't you make the rabbit cut with the table router? One cut per board instead of 2.

I tried but the oak wasn't having it. 2 pass at half per pass and it would tear/blow out. I had to take 4 passes with a new bit to make it work. Soon as I figured that out I packed up the router table and went to the saw.

sakurama · Apr 20, 2015

Nice work as usual.

As for the cords... It just seems like internet conflagration. I've been using Festool for more than ten years and have never had an issue. One thing I do however is to use the "heavier" of the two gauges. The lighter one is used on the sanders and has two notches while the heavier one, used on the saws, has only one notch. The heavier single notch cord can be used on all the tools, while the lighter one can't (the tab for the second notch blocks it) so the heavy one stays on my CT22 vacuum full time. In a sense that "one" cord used for everything all the time.

I will follow your lead and get a plug it for my corded Milwaukee that lives to pocket hole drill.

Gregor

356acoupe · Apr 23, 2015

Great ideas. Best thread I've read so far :beer:

Paladin306 · Apr 23, 2015

lilscorpion said:
I wish, i'm dozen's of years away. If anyone can share with me and escalated way to get there, I'm all ears.

Lol, ok so you finally asked about something that I know about. However, I certainly don't want to hijack your enormously awesome thread :bowdown:

nor sound like an advertisement. So, I'll keep it short. You can feel free to private email if you ever wish as I love to talk about investing. :bounce:

1. Save
2. Invest in quality stocks consistently.
3. Learn to buy and, more importantly, sell stock options.

If you need any help with that join The Motley Fool http://www.fool.com

One note of importance. Their advertising is absolutely horrible. But, the bottom line is the educational benefits and their service Motley Fool Options is well worth it.

It enabled me to retire at 55 and keeps me in tool money, plus some.

mr_magicfingers · Apr 28, 2015

Just spent 3 days of spare time at work reading through this thread. Masterful use of tools, knowledge and ingenuity, thank you for taking the time to share it all with us, I'm about to start building a new workshop inside a barn so many of these ideas will come in very handy. I'm also going to have to take a closer look at Festool kit, which might get a bit expensive.

Bob Heine · Apr 28, 2015

I agree with Paladin306. To retire comfortably at 50 I recommend:

4. Eliminate debt (pay off house, cars and eliminate all credit card balances).
5. Right size your life (smaller house, bigger garage).

Having a company pension and medical insurance helps a lot. Would need $50K more per year without it.

Dustin Pahl · Apr 28, 2015

lilscorpion said:
It was COLD today. I'm already tired of it and ready for some warmer weather so I can get back to the cabinets and truck. After setting up the heater, I decided I better get something done even if it wasn't much so I decided to knock out the smaller Williams tray. I'm conserving space for some ratcheting drivers I have so I need to make this tray as small as possible and as short as possible so I can fit a tray of nut drivers in this drawer.

It almost ended up a little tighter than I wanted but it worked out. The drivers fit tight enough they don't move around but loose enough I can get them out easily. I may go back and add in some finger grooves later but for now I can get them out without any issue.

It's nice seeing things come together and this drawer is starting to shape up. I added in the nut drivers and the ratcheting drivers I have to see how they're going to lay out. Just barely enough space considering the T-Handle drivers' goofy shape.

The complex shape of the T-Drivers should be an interesting challenge. There's a mess of shapes within them that may result in some plastic hitting the trash can. I'll have to leave them for another day.

I am planning on getting the 19 piece set from Williams and would love to do this!! What material is that and how thick is it ??

lilscorpion · Apr 29, 2015

Dustin Pahl said:
I am planning on getting the 19 piece set from Williams and would love to do this!! What material is that and how thick is it ??

1-inch thick HDPE I ordered from a seller off of eBay. The material is called starboard.

Search - "1 black king starboard"

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