let's see your craftsman block grinders

[alpinewhite]

Here's a nice little upgrade. Take out the 3 or 4 screws holding on the side guard covers and replace with 8-32 studs and flange nuts. It lets you easily pop the covers off and on without having to line up bolts. You also don't have to thread in and out of the soft casting all the time -- the nut and stud takes the wear.

I thought those were keyholes which make it easy to remove the cover.

 

[Outlawmws]

Great Idea! Do you have a source for the studs, or is it just a long threaded section?

 

[JZiggy]

I thought those were keyholes which make it easy to remove the cover.

The holes do have a wide and a thin end. It would make sense that you should be able to back the screws off a bit, rotate, and pull the heads through the wide end. I could not on mine, however. But that would be even easier than removing 4 nuts.

 

[JZiggy]

Great Idea! Do you have a source for the studs, or is it just a long threaded section?

They are 1" long, 8-32 studs from McMaster. About $0.75 a piece. Then I just got some flange nuts -- I have a bunch extra if somebody wants some. They are serrated flange (all I could find) but I just sanded down the teeth.

 

[alpinewhite]

Wingnuts would also be an option.

 

[McBrownie]

Here's a nice little upgrade. Take out the 3 or 4 screws holding on the side guard covers and replace with 8-32 studs and flange nuts. It lets you easily pop the covers off and on without having to line up bolts. You also don't have to thread in and out of the soft casting all the time -- the nut and stud takes the wear.

Great idea! I wonder if brass knurled nuts might be the best of both worlds, let you loosen and tighten by hand, and still use the larger holes to pull off the cover when need.

http://www.jhpfasteners.com/swage-style-blind-rivet-knurled-body-p-23093-l-en.html

 

[JZiggy]

Great idea! I wonder if brass knurled nuts might be the best of both worlds, let you loosen and tighten by hand, and still use the larger holes to pull off the cover when need.

http://www.jhpfasteners.com/swage-style-blind-rivet-knurled-body-p-23093-l-en.html

Now that's what I call collaborative innovation

 

[trijeff]

Only JZs solution will work on my older round top because it does not have the keyways. But I do like the wing nut idea. Love all the great ideas here, makes me look ao smart when buddies visit the shop

 

[exmaxima1]

Great idea! I wonder if brass knurled nuts might be the best of both worlds, let you loosen and tighten by hand, and still use the larger holes to pull off the cover when need.

http://www.jhpfasteners.com/swage-style-blind-rivet-knurled-body-p-23093-l-en.html

If you can get those tiny inserts tight enough by hand, you have tougher fingers than me

 

[JZiggy]

If you can get those tiny inserts tight enough by hand, you have tougher fingers than me

What a weenie!


Just kidding, I wondered about that too.

 

[McBrownie]

If you can get those tiny inserts tight enough by hand, you have tougher fingers than me

Good point. You could end up with a rattling mess. I hate rattles.

 

[bagged89s10]

I'm posting this photo for "Dodge Dave" (Dodge610). He says you know what it's about...he's having trouble posting photos.



Thanks.

That was my bad bagged89s10 and me need to find out if block grinder parts will fit this pre block grinder. model no.115-7561 manu. date was 5/54. I need spark shelds and end covers for the grinding wheels thanks in advance. thanks ponchoguy for posting the pick up for me.

Trying to help dodge610 get some parts to fit his grinder. Anyone know if block grinder side shields, eye shields, and spark arresters fit this style block. Actually, looking at the pictures he sent me, doesn't look like the grinder has side guards mounts.

 

[torqueman2002]

Trying to help dodge610 get some parts to fit his grinder. Anyone know if block grinder side shields, eye shields, and spark arresters fit this style block. Actually, looking at the pictures he sent me, doesn't look like the grinder has side guards mounts.

I saw your post in the other thread.

I agree, there don't appear to be any cast-in bosses for the wheel guard covers in the above pictures.

My reply:
"I have looked at my copy of the owners manual for your grinder "0.25 HP CM rt pre-Block m-115.7561 6500.pdf". (I most likely downloaded it from OWWM.)

The manual does not show wheel guard covers (end plates), or spark arresters.

The 1/3-HP pre-Block m-115.7566 does have only covers, however.

IIRC the 1/4-HP wheel guard covers have cast bosses for the cover bolt holes.

So, theoretically covers can be fitted.

The problem will be finding the covers. I looked for years to find the missing covers for the restore I did on a 1/3-HP pre-Block m-115.7566.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=107194

Here's a link for a 1/4-HP pre-Block m-115.19500tear-down.

Note: The pre-blocks and some Blocks use a internal (and delicate, not available) start-up winding switch. Use care when you dis-assembling them.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=244181

Best of luck.

Be sure to let us know how you make out."

 

[Exeter]

Picked up a 257.191400 1/2 HP 6" off of CL for $10. I'm going to restore it and was part way through tearing it apart before I remembered to snap some 'before' pics. I've already cleaned a lot of gunk off it. It runs great with a long spin down time. I think the only parts that I'll need to replace are the stones and the eye shields, part # 22023394.

 

[torqueman2002]

Picked up a 257.191400 1/2 HP 6" off of CL for $10. I'm going to restore it and was part way through tearing it apart before I remembered to snap some 'before' pics. I've already cleaned a lot of gunk off it. It runs great with a long spin down time. I think the only parts that I'll need to replace are the stones and the eye shields, part # 22023394.

Exe,

Congratulations on a great find, and welcome to Block grinder ownership!

There are good examples of restorations in this thread, plus the links in my signature line will help with ideas.

It's a good idea to replace the stones, their history is un-known and can be dangerous.

The long run-down time is due to dry-bearings, which are readily available, inexpensive, and easy to replace.

I routinely replace the power cord, and inspect, clean, and repair the rest of the electrics: switch, terminals, lamp, relay, capacitor (if equipped), ....

The eye shields may clean up nicely.
Simple Green, or similar
Meguiar's Cleaner Wax - Paste, or similar (some people report non-gel tooth paste, also works)

Here's a link to Eye Shield Kit, Bench Grinder, Replacement.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=3323239&postcount=465

$16.59
http://www.grainger.com/product/DAYTON-Eye-Shield-KIt-5PZP2

If you have any questions, just ask. There's a lot of helpful, knowledgeable people on this thread.

Keep us up-to-date on your progress.

 

[McBrownie]

Picked up a 257.191400 1/2 HP 6" off of CL for $10. I'm going to restore it and was part way through tearing it apart before I remembered to snap some 'before' pics. I've already cleaned a lot of gunk off it. It runs great with a long spin down time. I think the only parts that I'll need to replace are the stones and the eye shields, part # 22023394.

I have a 1/2hp 257.191401. I have no idea what the difference between the "00" and the "01" is. It's a nice Allegretti made block from the early 1980's most likely. I'm would suggest replacing your 30 year-old bearings. The grease is probably dried out resulting in that long spin down time. Shielded 6203's are what you need and they are less than $20. Your label is in better shape than mine, so I can't compare serial numbers. Nice find!

By the way, I got the right tool rests from the good doctor and this grinder is moving down the street in exchange for the use of my neighbors ZTR mower. A fair trade.

View media item 40367View media item 41436

 

[torqueman2002]

....
View media item 40367View media item 41436

Nice!

 

[Exeter]

Exe,

Congratulations on a great find, and welcome to Block grinder ownership!

There are good examples of restorations in this thread, plus the links in my signature line will help with ideas.

It's a good idea to replace the stones, they're history is un-known and can be dangerous.

The long run-down time is due to dry-bearings, which are readily available, inexpensive, and easy to replace.

I routinely replace the power cord, and inspect, clean, and repair the rest of the electrics: switch, terminals, lamp, relay, capacitor (if equipped), ....

The eye shields may clean up nicely.
Simple Green, or similar
Meguiar's Cleaner Wax - Paste, or similar (some people report non-gel tooth paste, also works)

Here's a link to Eye Shield Kit, Bench Grinder, Replacement.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=3323239&postcount=465

$16.59
http://www.grainger.com/product/DAYTON-Eye-Shield-KIt-5PZP2

If you have any questions, just ask. There's a lot of helpful, knowledgeable people on this thread.

Keep us up-to-date on your progress.

Torque-Thanks for the info. I've lurked on this thread for quite awhile. The inside of this one is remarkably pristine considering how dirty the outside was. She's already completely torn apart and the sides are already painted.

 

[Exeter]

I have a 1/2hp 257.191401. I have no idea what the difference between the "00" and the "01" is. It's a nice Allegretti made block from the early 1980's most likely. I'm would suggest replacing your 30 year-old bearings. The grease is probably dried out resulting in that long spin down time. Shielded 6203's are what you need and they are less than $20. Your label is in better shape than mine, so I can't compare serial numbers. Nice find!

By the way, I got the right tool rests from the good doctor and this grinder is moving down the street in exchange for the use of my neighbors ZTR mower. A fair trade.

View media item 40367View media item 41436

The bottom pic looks like you have a new label. Did you print a new one up? Or did is just clean up well?

 

[vertguy]

My recently acquired 3/4 hp has a lengthy shut down spin, which I know is indicative of dry bearings. Aside from the link in TM's Block resource thread for bearing vendors, are there any good write ups for the actual swap process? And if anyone has the bearing replacement details/specs for a 397.19350, that would be very helpful as well.

And BTW, what a huge difference with the 3/4 as compared to my smaller blocks when using the wire wheel. My 1/2 hp is already in a "semi-retired" status and I may end up thinning the heard and just keep the 3/4 and my mint condition 1/3

 

[exmaxima1]

My recently acquired 3/4 hp has a lengthy shut down spin, which I know is indicative of dry bearings. Aside from the link in TM's Block resource thread for bearing vendors, are there any good write ups for the actual swap process? And if anyone has the bearing replacement details/specs for a 397.19350, that would be very helpful as well.

And BTW, what a huge difference with the 3/4 as compared to my smaller blocks when using the wire wheel. My 1/2 hp is already in a "semi-retired" status and I may end up thinning the heard and just keep the 3/4 and my mint condition 1/3

I'm curious what 1/2hp block you have that feels less powerful than your split-phase 3/4hp block? Many 1/2hp blocks run more amperage than your 6 amp 3/4hp, so the difference should be negligible. I use a cap-start 1/2hp block for a pair of wire wheels, and it barely gets warm no matter how hard I push it.

Or were you referring to a 1/3hp model?

 

[exmaxima1]

Bought this older style 3/4hp cap-start commercial 8" block last week for $15, mainly for its cast iron tool rest base (not shown in pic, it's already in the electrolysis tank). Still mostly complete---missing eyeshields and lamp hood, and I have a spare set of standard tool rests. It's very dirty and needs bearings like pretty much all 40 year old machines.

Is it worth trying to fix it up, or should I part it out???

 

[vertguy]

My 1/2 is a 397.19340 split phase with a 5.1 amp rating. I may have overstated the difference as I only used the 1/2 with wire wheels for a short time before the 3/4 showed up, but there is a huge difference from the 1/3 that started this all for me.

 

[exmaxima1]

My 1/2 is a 397.19340 split phase with a 5.1 amp rating. I may have overstated the difference as I only used the 1/2 with wire wheels for a short time before the 3/4 showed up, but there is a huge difference from the 1/3 that started this all for me.

That's true. Those 1/3hp blocks are only around 4 amps or so.

 

[McBrownie]

Bought this older style 3/4hp cap-start commercial 8" block last week for $15, mainly for its cast iron tool rest base (not shown in pic, it's already in the electrolysis tank). Still mostly complete---missing eyeshields and lamp hood, and I have a spare set of standard tool rests. It's very dirty and needs bearings like pretty much all 40 year old machines.

Is it worth trying to fix it up, or should I part it out???

Oh, I hate the thought of parting out one of the big boys. But, that one is pretty rough. That one came with plastic eye shields originally I think, so that's easy. PM me.

 

[exmaxima1]

Oh, I hate the thought of parting out one of the big boys. But, that one is pretty rough. That one came with plastic eye shields originally I think, so that's easy. PM me.

If I do try to clean her up, I would make Lexan eyeshields like I've seen on your latest project. They look great.

 

[McBrownie]

The bottom pic looks like you have a new label. Did you print a new one up? Or did is just clean up well?

I just cleaned it up best I could. It spent the first 30 years of life in a landscaping company sharpening lawnmower blades which is why it got so beat up.

 

[macgee]

Do you think this is an ok deal? Looks like it's in good shape and says the bearings are good.


http://losangeles.craigslist.org/sfv/tls/5287849688.html

 

[exmaxima1]

Do you this is an ok deal? Looks like it's in good shape and says the bearings are good.


http://losangeles.craigslist.org/sfv/tls/5287849688.html

Missing the end covers and eyeshields, but still still an ok deal. The tool rests look great.

 

[Exeter]

Replacement label mockup I made in Photoshop. Added brushed stainless texture to see what it would look like if printed on metal.

 

[torqueman2002]

See my comments in Blue.

My recently acquired 3/4 hp has a lengthy shut down spin, which I know is indicative of dry bearings. Aside from the link in TM's Block resource thread for bearing vendors, are there any good write ups for the actual swap process?
Here's a restore of a 3/4-HP m-397.19350.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=103220

Here's a restore of a 1-HP m-257.191600.
http://tinyurl.com/Go-Blue-Block-Grinder

Here's another tear-down, with bearing removal, of a 1-HP m-257.191600.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=279094

See the YouTube link below for install.

And if anyone has the bearing replacement details/specs for a 397.19350, that would be very helpful as well.

I have found the arbor/shaft diameter determines which bearings to use on the Block grinders.

My record keeping is not up-to-date, but I have found the following to be the CM applications:
1-HP = 5/8 inch,
3/4-HP = 5/8 inch (exception, m-397.19350 = 1/2 inch),
1/2-HP = 1/2 inch
1/3-HP = 1/2 inch (exception, m-397.19410 with E Brake = 5/8 inch),
1/4-HP = 1/2 inch.

http://www.ntnamericas.com/en/produ...data-sheet/datasheet?pid=2362&cid=RBSRD&ctc=B

And BTW, what a huge difference with the 3/4 as compared to my smaller blocks when using the wire wheel. My 1/2 hp is already in a "semi-retired" status and I may end up thinning the heard and just keep the 3/4 and my mint condition 1/3

 

[torqueman2002]

Bought this older style 3/4hp cap-start commercial 8" block last week for $15, mainly for its cast iron tool rest base (not shown in pic, it's already in the electrolysis tank). Still mostly complete---missing eyeshields and lamp hood, and I have a spare set of standard tool rests. It's very dirty and needs bearings like pretty much all 40 year old machines.

Is it worth trying to fix it up, or should I part it out???

Fix it.

You ****!

 

[torqueman2002]

Replacement label mockup I made in Photoshop. Added brushed stainless texture to see what it would look like if printed on metal.

 

[macgee]

Do you think this is an ok deal? Looks like it's in good shape and says the bearings are good.

http://losangeles.craigslist.org/sfv/tls/5287849688.html

Missing the end covers and eyeshields, but still still an ok deal. The tool rests look great.

Thanks exmaxima, Happy Halloween

 

[Isaiah6113]

Updated chart comparing specific Canadian and US models.

This is only for Designs C 308X, other designs and models will have different specs.

Matthew A.

 

[exmaxima1]

Updated chart comparing specific Canadian and US models.

This is only for Designs C 308X, other designs and models will have different specs.

Matthew A.

My "308x" 1/2hp draws more than either of my commercial 3/4hp blocks.

 

[Isaiah6113]

My "308x" 1/2hp draws more than either of my commercial 3/4hp blocks.

It most certainly does!

The purpose of my little chart was to align selected Canadian model and design numbers with their US counterparts. It certainly wasn't my intention to try and enumerate all models!

Yours does seem unusual with its lower model number and higher design number. Of course I'm no expert on these things. Beyond my chart I don't even know if there is a correlation between the two.

M.

 

[McBrownie]

It most certainly does!

The purpose of my little chart was to align selected Canadian model and design numbers with their US counterparts. It certainly wasn't my intention to try and enumerate all models!

Yours does seem unusual with its lower model number and higher design number. Of course I'm no expert on these things. Beyond my chart I don't even know if there is a correlation between the two.

M.

The U.S. block grinders have model numbers that seem to decrease through the years. Who knows why, but they must have known that they were not to be made forever. . Happy Halloween everyone.

 

[Kaervak]

Found a few decently priced blocks while searching around on craigslist today trying to find a factory lamp for my 1/3HP block.

$45 1/3HP in York, PA
http://york.craigslist.org/tls/5263031881.html

$35 1/4HP in Lancaster, PA
http://lancaster.craigslist.org/tls/5268051170.html

$50 1/4HP in Baltimore
http://baltimore.craigslist.org/tls/5272359392.html

$30 1/2HP in Newton, NJ
http://newjersey.craigslist.org/tls/5262987524.html

$50 3/4HP in Hudson Valley
http://hudsonvalley.craigslist.org/grd/5291010169.html

$45 1/2HP in Charlotte
http://charlotte.craigslist.org/for/5289287290.html

$60 1/3HP in Alton
http://stlouis.craigslist.org/tld/5249263085.html

$30 1/2HP in Mankato
http://www.shoppok.com/mankato/a,41,56318,Craftsman-Bench-Grinder----30--Upper-North-.htm

 

[torqueman2002]

My "308x" 1/2hp draws more than either of my commercial 3/4hp blocks.

Maybe this will help.