How did you turn the nice groves in the dies?
On the rings do you cut the flat part out on the starting end and roll it closed??
BTW the stuff looks great!
William....


I used end mills of the appropriate diameter and held the die blank in the mill vise to rough out the shape. I would plunge cut then rotate a few degrees and make another plunge cut. After the groove was roughed out I installed the die in a fixture that spun it with a drill and finished the contour with the side of the mill cutter.
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I have looked into them but they seem to be more suited to larger radius'sI'll have to use a radius cutter on the lathe when I make dies for larger tubing.
That sounds like a good way to make them I will have to try that!To make a circle I do 2 arcs of the same radius and lay them on top of each other to form the circle then tack them together. Make 2 bandsaw cuts and weld the halves together. You can make a really round and planar ring that way
GzrGlide:
You do use your electric drill to spin the jack, don't you?

Probably not going to be making the larger dies now. This weekend I bought the HF tubing roller that has 1", 1 1/2" and 2" dies that I will either use in my machine or just use the HF machine as is. The regular price is $159 and it was on sale for $139 and with a 20% coupon it was only $112. The dies are made from castings and are really nice quality, the machine isn't bad either although the screw might be a little difficult to work when bending 2" - 1/8" wall tubingThat's dam clever! I like that one might be a little $$ for the larger cutters but way cheaper than the dies. Did you heat treat the dies or just run them as is?
I have looked into them but they seem to be more suited to larger radius's
That sounds like a good way to make them I will have to try that!
Thanks for sharing the ideas!
William.....
I like the nut and impact gun better than the drill - for the weight of the bike.

Bead breaker for motorcycle tires.
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When needed, it just bolts to the top of my welding table.
Great thread, great ideas, thanks guys!
I've been scratching my head about how to fix my cheapie knockoff Roper Whitney hand punch to my bench to make it easier to use. I know they make a proper stand for the RW but it's kinda pricey and I couldn't be sure it would mate with my Taiwan made US Industrial Tools sourced punch so I decided to make one.
So I drew something up in Acad, fiddled around with it and cut some bits of CRS on my little self converted CNC mini mill to get the results you see here.
I highly recommended getting one of these punches if you don't have one, they're about 20$ at HFreight and if you are not inclined to make a stand, there's a guy on ebay making them for 25$, just do a search for "Hand held Sheet Metal Punch Mounting Bracket". He sells the punch too, just check his other sales. Here are the links to HF and US Industrial. I bought mine from US Industrial about 10 years ago, paid too much, D'OH!
HF: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=44060
US Industrial: https://www.ustool.com/store/cart.ph..._detail&p=1427
I think that if you fool around a bit with some end cuts out of your scarp bin you can come up with something that'll do the same thing.
In the end I ran a couple off for buds that I owed favors to. I am not selling them nor am I in any way affiliated with the ebay fellow.
Yes, there's lack of depth gauge with this setup. Still workin' on that part, that's half the fun of doing this stuff!
cheers!
Mark
Montreal
Great thread, great ideas, thanks guys!
I've been scratching my head about how to fix my cheapie knockoff Roper Whitney hand punch to my bench to make it easier to use. I know they make a proper stand for the RW but it's kinda pricey and I couldn't be sure it would mate with my Taiwan made US Industrial Tools sourced punch so I decided to make one.
So I drew something up in Acad, fiddled around with it and cut some bits of CRS on my little self converted CNC mini mill to get the results you see here.
I highly recommended getting one of these punches if you don't have one, they're about 20$ at HFreight and if you are not inclined to make a stand, there's a guy on ebay making them for 25$, just do a search for "Hand held Sheet Metal Punch Mounting Bracket". He sells the punch too, just check his other sales. Here are the links to HF and US Industrial. I bought mine from US Industrial about 10 years ago, paid too much, D'OH!
HF: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=44060
US Industrial: https://www.ustool.com/store/cart.ph..._detail&p=1427
I think that if you fool around a bit with some end cuts out of your scarp bin you can come up with something that'll do the same thing.
In the end I ran a couple off for buds that I owed favors to. I am not selling them nor am I in any way affiliated with the ebay fellow.
Yes, there's lack of depth gauge with this setup. Still workin' on that part, that's half the fun of doing this stuff!
cheers!
Mark
Montreal
You get a lot longer weekends than I do!Here's a weekend project. This guy built his own 3-axis CNC!!!!!
http://www.stanford.edu/~hydrobay/lookat/cnc.html
Likely done before, but here is my brake bleeder made from a cheap-o garden sprayer, pressure gauge and spare brake reservoir cap.


You can see a write up on the English wheel here http://www.metalmeet.com/forum/showthread.php?t=12554 and on welding it up here http://weldingweb.com/showthread.php?t=26663. The adjuster is described in post # 40 here http://www.metalmeet.com/forum/showthread.php?t=12316&page=2Jim,
I'm just looking at building a few shop tools as I'm rebuilding a number of old sports cars. Love your adjustable rotisserie. Also, the English Wheel -- any estimate on cost and where you got the parts?
Thanks,
Don
Here's a hacksaw I made in Grade 9 MetalWork - 32 years go!!! It takes 10inch blades, as you can see the 12inch is too long!
The dolly is made from lead, melted inot a tin can for me by an old bodyman I worked with at my Dads shop. It's used for pick work. I've wrapped it in duct tape to make it even softer, owing to metal becoming thinner and softer over time.
<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="http://picasaweb.google.ca/lh/photo/2UsVphotS9a-A4vG9Mzdgg?authkey=Gv1sRgCIvhh6SLk8TpLw&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_aqOnCVYCxbQ/SoDcgidJDJI/AAAAAAAAAfw/76CjLIxiF6Y/s800/IMG_2299.JPG" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="http://picasaweb.google.ca/edanneberg/ToolsMade?authkey=Gv1sRgCIvhh6SLk8TpLw&feat=embedwebsite">Tools made</a></td></tr></table>
Sand blasting cabinet:
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Dude!! Thats brilliant.
Any specific fab instructions or more pics! It's tough bleeding bakes when the only other person around is a 11 year old kid!![]()
Paint the inside of the cabinet????? Are you friggin serious???
Dude!! Thats brilliant.
Any specific fab instructions or more pics! It's tough bleeding bakes when the only other person around is a 11 year old kid!![]()
Hey... why don't you paint the inside of that blasting cabinet. Would look a lot better.![]()
Seeing as how that's used for sandblasting, I think it was a joke!
.

Paint the inside of the cabinet????? Are you friggin serious???
Paint the inside of the cabinet????? Are you friggin serious???
Of course not.

GZRGLide - Have you tried a "One man bleeder" outfit? It's a vacuum pump, tubing and a cup. It ***** out the fluid rather than pushing it out with the pedal/lever...

Yeah I bought one from PA last year. Worked ok, but took a very long time and made a bit of a mess. Maybe if I spent more money?![]()
Though I'd spray the outside of it to make it look nicer.


Anvil made out of I-beam
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Howdy All.
My 1st post. I built these tools for myself.
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The truck pics are a couple years old.. All the rust is now gone but it's still on the rotisserie..
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Abrasive cabinet. Used a kit from TP Tools..
You don't have to spend a bunch of money...
I made one of these not long ago... It's a pressure based model.
Take a flat plate (I have also seen people use a spare brake MC cover and do this too) and thread it for an air fitting. The idea is you want something you can clamp onto your MC and get a seal on.
Turn your air pressure down to 5 PSI or less (you don't need much). Put plate and fixture on the MC and turn on the air.
Go under the vehicle and crack the bleeder. Voila! It's like a pressure assisted gravity bleed.
Be careful NOT to let your MC go dry.

