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Built-it-myself tools/machines - show us what you've done

A_Pmech

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Joined
May 8, 2007
Messages
8,002
Location
IL
Jim,

Nice work!

It has nice proportions to it.

A ring roller is on my list of things to do. As is a a 6" plate roll. Just as soon as I get these two machines rebuilt, anyway.
 
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e-tek

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Joined
Dec 19, 2007
Messages
10,690
Location
Saskatoon, SK
Here's a hacksaw I made in Grade 9 MetalWork - 32 years go!!! It takes 10inch blades, as you can see the 12inch is too long!

The dolly is made from lead, melted inot a tin can for me by an old bodyman I worked with at my Dads shop. It's used for pick work. I've wrapped it in duct tape to make it even softer, owing to metal becoming thinner and softer over time.


<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="http://picasaweb.google.ca/lh/photo/2UsVphotS9a-A4vG9Mzdgg?authkey=Gv1sRgCIvhh6SLk8TpLw&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_aqOnCVYCxbQ/SoDcgidJDJI/AAAAAAAAAfw/76CjLIxiF6Y/s800/IMG_2299.JPG" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="http://picasaweb.google.ca/edanneberg/ToolsMade?authkey=Gv1sRgCIvhh6SLk8TpLw&feat=embedwebsite">Tools made</a></td></tr></table>
 
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J

Jim Stabe

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Joined
Feb 18, 2009
Messages
801
Location
San Diego, Ca
How did you turn the nice groves in the dies?

On the rings do you cut the flat part out on the starting end and roll it closed??

BTW the stuff looks great!

William....

I used end mills of the appropriate diameter and held the die blank in the mill vise to rough out the shape. I would plunge cut then rotate a few degrees and make another plunge cut. After the groove was roughed out I installed the die in a fixture that spun it with a drill and finished the contour with the side of the mill cutter.
Ring Roller c 006 (Medium).jpg

Ring Roller c 004 (Medium).jpg

I'll have to use a radius cutter on the lathe when I make dies for larger tubing.

To make a circle I do 2 arcs of the same radius and lay them on top of each other to form the circle then tack them together. Make 2 bandsaw cuts and weld the halves together. You can make a really round and planar ring that way
 
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GzrGlide

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 19, 2008
Messages
96
Location
Wpg, Manitoba, Canada
Made a "lift" for my bike so I could lever the front or the back tire up high enough, so I could take the wheels off.

2786930940101986741S500x500Q85.jpg


2732375470101986741S500x500Q85.jpg



Also took a basic scissor jack and welded on a new base for stability as well as a solid bar that runs the length of the frame brace under the bike that I can use to raise the back of the bike.

2133297640101986741S500x500Q85.jpg


2715205370101986741S500x500Q85.jpg
 

kbs2244

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Joined
Nov 11, 2006
Messages
14,065
GzrGlide:
You do use your electric drill to spin the jack, don't you?
 

W-Cummins

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Joined
Jan 9, 2006
Messages
1,639
Location
Iowa
I used end mills of the appropriate diameter and held the die blank in the mill vise to rough out the shape. I would plunge cut then rotate a few degrees and make another plunge cut. After the groove was roughed out I installed the die in a fixture that spun it with a drill and finished the contour with the side of the mill cutter.
Ring Roller c 006 (Medium).jpg

That's dam clever! I like that one might be a little $$ for the larger cutters but way cheaper than the dies. Did you heat treat the dies or just run them as is?

I'll have to use a radius cutter on the lathe when I make dies for larger tubing.
I have looked into them but they seem to be more suited to larger radius's

To make a circle I do 2 arcs of the same radius and lay them on top of each other to form the circle then tack them together. Make 2 bandsaw cuts and weld the halves together. You can make a really round and planar ring that way
That sounds like a good way to make them I will have to try that!

Thanks for sharing the ideas!


William.....
 

GzrGlide

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Joined
Mar 19, 2008
Messages
96
Location
Wpg, Manitoba, Canada
GzrGlide:
You do use your electric drill to spin the jack, don't you?

Sadly...not yet. I have to weld a large nut onto the end of the "screw-shaft" and I'll use my impact gun. I just haven't gotten motivated enough to do that yet. For now, all I do is put a rod thru the hole, turn, remove & replace rod, turn etc etc.

But now that you've reminded me of that, guess I'll be doing that this week! :beer:
 
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Jim Stabe

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Joined
Feb 18, 2009
Messages
801
Location
San Diego, Ca
That's dam clever! I like that one might be a little $$ for the larger cutters but way cheaper than the dies. Did you heat treat the dies or just run them as is?

I have looked into them but they seem to be more suited to larger radius's

That sounds like a good way to make them I will have to try that!

Thanks for sharing the ideas!


William.....
Probably not going to be making the larger dies now. This weekend I bought the HF tubing roller that has 1", 1 1/2" and 2" dies that I will either use in my machine or just use the HF machine as is. The regular price is $159 and it was on sale for $139 and with a 20% coupon it was only $112. The dies are made from castings and are really nice quality, the machine isn't bad either although the screw might be a little difficult to work when bending 2" - 1/8" wall tubing
 

mgermca

Active member
Joined
Apr 3, 2008
Messages
35
Great thread, great ideas, thanks guys!

I've been scratching my head about how to fix my cheapie knockoff Roper Whitney hand punch to my bench to make it easier to use. I know they make a proper stand for the RW but it's kinda pricey and I couldn't be sure it would mate with my Taiwan made US Industrial Tools sourced punch so I decided to make one.

So I drew something up in Acad, fiddled around with it and cut some bits of CRS on my little self converted CNC mini mill to get the results you see here.

I highly recommended getting one of these punches if you don't have one, they're about 20$ at HFreight and if you are not inclined to make a stand, there's a guy on ebay making them for 25$, just do a search for "Hand held Sheet Metal Punch Mounting Bracket". He sells the punch too, just check his other sales. Here are the links to HF and US Industrial. I bought mine from US Industrial about 10 years ago, paid too much, D'OH!

HF: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=44060

US Industrial: https://www.ustool.com/store/cart.ph..._detail&p=1427

I think that if you fool around a bit with some end cuts out of your scarp bin you can come up with something that'll do the same thing.

In the end I ran a couple off for buds that I owed favors to. I am not selling them nor am I in any way affiliated with the ebay fellow.

Yes, there's lack of depth gauge with this setup. Still workin' on that part, that's half the fun of doing this stuff!

cheers!

Mark
Montreal
 

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senlow

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Joined
Apr 26, 2008
Messages
2,228
Location
Wheat Ridge, Colorado
Great thread, great ideas, thanks guys!

I've been scratching my head about how to fix my cheapie knockoff Roper Whitney hand punch to my bench to make it easier to use. I know they make a proper stand for the RW but it's kinda pricey and I couldn't be sure it would mate with my Taiwan made US Industrial Tools sourced punch so I decided to make one.

So I drew something up in Acad, fiddled around with it and cut some bits of CRS on my little self converted CNC mini mill to get the results you see here.

I highly recommended getting one of these punches if you don't have one, they're about 20$ at HFreight and if you are not inclined to make a stand, there's a guy on ebay making them for 25$, just do a search for "Hand held Sheet Metal Punch Mounting Bracket". He sells the punch too, just check his other sales. Here are the links to HF and US Industrial. I bought mine from US Industrial about 10 years ago, paid too much, D'OH!

HF: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=44060

US Industrial: https://www.ustool.com/store/cart.ph..._detail&p=1427

I think that if you fool around a bit with some end cuts out of your scarp bin you can come up with something that'll do the same thing.

In the end I ran a couple off for buds that I owed favors to. I am not selling them nor am I in any way affiliated with the ebay fellow.

Yes, there's lack of depth gauge with this setup. Still workin' on that part, that's half the fun of doing this stuff!

cheers!

Mark
Montreal

Well done. I like it.
And, welcome to the board.
 

Kevin54

MEMBER EMERITUS
Joined
Jan 12, 2005
Messages
29,341
Location
Urbana, Ohio
Great thread, great ideas, thanks guys!

I've been scratching my head about how to fix my cheapie knockoff Roper Whitney hand punch to my bench to make it easier to use. I know they make a proper stand for the RW but it's kinda pricey and I couldn't be sure it would mate with my Taiwan made US Industrial Tools sourced punch so I decided to make one.

So I drew something up in Acad, fiddled around with it and cut some bits of CRS on my little self converted CNC mini mill to get the results you see here.

I highly recommended getting one of these punches if you don't have one, they're about 20$ at HFreight and if you are not inclined to make a stand, there's a guy on ebay making them for 25$, just do a search for "Hand held Sheet Metal Punch Mounting Bracket". He sells the punch too, just check his other sales. Here are the links to HF and US Industrial. I bought mine from US Industrial about 10 years ago, paid too much, D'OH!

HF: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=44060

US Industrial: https://www.ustool.com/store/cart.ph..._detail&p=1427

I think that if you fool around a bit with some end cuts out of your scarp bin you can come up with something that'll do the same thing.

In the end I ran a couple off for buds that I owed favors to. I am not selling them nor am I in any way affiliated with the ebay fellow.

Yes, there's lack of depth gauge with this setup. Still workin' on that part, that's half the fun of doing this stuff!

cheers!

Mark
Montreal

Nice job on the stands :thumbup: You can take it one step further and add that stand to a metal base that is as long as the centerline of the punch and as far back as the handle. That way you don't have to clamp it to a table and you can sit it anywhere. BTW....for anyone that DOESN'T have a Whitney Punch, I would recommend getting one. Real handy thing to have. I have one at work and use it weekly. :thumbup:
 

smedly

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Joined
Jan 11, 2009
Messages
403
Location
Savage, Mn
Likely done before, but here is my brake bleeder made from a cheap-o garden sprayer, pressure gauge and spare brake reservoir cap.
 

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donbarr

New member
Joined
Sep 12, 2009
Messages
1
Jim,

I'm just looking at building a few shop tools as I'm rebuilding a number of old sports cars. Love your adjustable rotisserie. Also, the English Wheel -- any estimate on cost and where you got the parts?

Thanks,

Don
 

GzrGlide

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Joined
Mar 19, 2008
Messages
96
Location
Wpg, Manitoba, Canada
Likely done before, but here is my brake bleeder made from a cheap-o garden sprayer, pressure gauge and spare brake reservoir cap.

Dude!! Thats brilliant. :bowdown:

Any specific fab instructions or more pics! It's tough bleeding bakes when the only other person around is a 11 year old kid! :bounce:
 
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J

Jim Stabe

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Joined
Feb 18, 2009
Messages
801
Location
San Diego, Ca
Jim,

I'm just looking at building a few shop tools as I'm rebuilding a number of old sports cars. Love your adjustable rotisserie. Also, the English Wheel -- any estimate on cost and where you got the parts?

Thanks,

Don
You can see a write up on the English wheel here http://www.metalmeet.com/forum/showthread.php?t=12554 and on welding it up here http://weldingweb.com/showthread.php?t=26663. The adjuster is described in post # 40 here http://www.metalmeet.com/forum/showthread.php?t=12316&page=2

You can find some good info on rotisseries here http://www.metalmeet.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11993 and here http://www.metalmeet.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5041&highlight=rotisserie
 
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pipehack

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Joined
Feb 23, 2009
Messages
923
Location
chicago
Here's a hacksaw I made in Grade 9 MetalWork - 32 years go!!! It takes 10inch blades, as you can see the 12inch is too long!

The dolly is made from lead, melted inot a tin can for me by an old bodyman I worked with at my Dads shop. It's used for pick work. I've wrapped it in duct tape to make it even softer, owing to metal becoming thinner and softer over time.


<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="http://picasaweb.google.ca/lh/photo/2UsVphotS9a-A4vG9Mzdgg?authkey=Gv1sRgCIvhh6SLk8TpLw&feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_aqOnCVYCxbQ/SoDcgidJDJI/AAAAAAAAAfw/76CjLIxiF6Y/s800/IMG_2299.JPG" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="http://picasaweb.google.ca/edanneberg/ToolsMade?authkey=Gv1sRgCIvhh6SLk8TpLw&feat=embedwebsite">Tools made</a></td></tr></table>

E-tec..... let me know if you need a 5lb. pig of lead. I use it on a daily basis.... We still do real plumbing in Chicago.
 

scottg1952

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Joined
Sep 7, 2009
Messages
112
Location
Happy Camp
http://users.snowcrest.net/kitty/scott/anvil3.jpg
Homemade anvil from railroad track and caterpillar cutting lip steel?
http://users.snowcrest.net/kitty/sgrandstaff/images/house/speaker2.jpg
PA speaker cabinet, one of a pair. one 18" speaker and a large horn
different kind to tool?? hee eheheh
http://users.snowcrest.net/kitty/sgrandstaff/images/house/pipe8a.jpg
another kind of tool?? Padouk and vintage italian hard rubber stem
http://users.snowcrest.net/kitty/sgrandstaff/images/hometools/legdance2.jpg
calipers :bounce:
yours Scott
 

smedly

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Joined
Jan 11, 2009
Messages
403
Location
Savage, Mn
Dude!! Thats brilliant. :bowdown:

Any specific fab instructions or more pics! It's tough bleeding bakes when the only other person around is a 11 year old kid! :bounce:

Thanks, not an original idea though. There is one made by Motiv I think? I saw that and figured I could make my own pretty easily. just drilled the hole and turned the gauge in. Plastic ends up being self tapping. I use a strap to make sure the cap doesn't pop off the reservoir. Basic vinyl hose and I think the elbow at the cap came from an old glass fuel filter assembly.
 

e-tek

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Joined
Dec 19, 2007
Messages
10,690
Location
Saskatoon, SK
Dude!! Thats brilliant. :bowdown:

Any specific fab instructions or more pics! It's tough bleeding bakes when the only other person around is a 11 year old kid! :bounce:

GZRGLide - Have you tried a "One man bleeder" outfit? It's a vacuum pump, tubing and a cup. It ***** out the fluid rather than pushing it out with the pedal/lever...

Hey... why don't you paint the inside of that blasting cabinet. Would look a lot better.:wtf::headscrat:bounce:

It WOULD look better!! Think how much easier it would be on the parts in there too!

Seeing as how that's used for sandblasting, I think it was a joke! :)
.

We hope - anyways!!:headscrat
 

GzrGlide

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Joined
Mar 19, 2008
Messages
96
Location
Wpg, Manitoba, Canada
GZRGLide - Have you tried a "One man bleeder" outfit? It's a vacuum pump, tubing and a cup. It ***** out the fluid rather than pushing it out with the pedal/lever...

Yeah I bought one from PA last year. Worked ok, but took a very long time and made a bit of a mess. Maybe if I spent more money? :bounce:
 

bluesman2a

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Joined
Aug 16, 2005
Messages
1,312
Location
Atlanta, Ga.
Yeah I bought one from PA last year. Worked ok, but took a very long time and made a bit of a mess. Maybe if I spent more money? :bounce:

You don't have to spend a bunch of money...
I made one of these not long ago... It's a pressure based model.

Take a flat plate (I have also seen people use a spare brake MC cover and do this too) and thread it for an air fitting. The idea is you want something you can clamp onto your MC and get a seal on.

Turn your air pressure down to 5 PSI or less (you don't need much). Put plate and fixture on the MC and turn on the air.

Go under the vehicle and crack the bleeder. Voila! It's like a pressure assisted gravity bleed.

Be careful NOT to let your MC go dry.
 

lametec

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Joined
May 5, 2008
Messages
2,099
Location
Michigan
Though I'd spray the outside of it to make it look nicer.

It was part of the plan.. but I put it into use before I got around to it. I was also going to add a way of draining the sand out the bottom. I still might, but now I'm installing a new furnace.

Furnace? How's that relate to a sandblasting, you ask? :lol_hitti

You see, my current furnace is an oil burner. It has a 250 (or so) gallon fuel tank that sits in my basement. My new furnace is gas, so I won't be needing that fuel tank. The idea is to turn the fuel tank into a blast cabinet. The drum cabinet works well, but it's a little bit on the small side.

Something like this:

attachment.jpg
 

brownbagg

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Joined
Mar 20, 2006
Messages
5,208
I built this out of drill rod, its 2 ft by 3 feet. the small pipe is where I stick my wheels. in this picture its on its end. I use it to push car bodies around the shop. I can weld on it, paint, sandblast. I can put a piece of plywood on top and have a table, a counter, a saw house. I can throw it outside and forget about it, weather does not hurt it. I can put my wheels on, plywood on , and finish sheetrock ceilings with it. It make a good scaffold. I have used it to finish cabinet on, paint on, steamclean on.
 

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KBinCT

New member
Joined
Aug 30, 2009
Messages
3
Location
Ledyard, CT
Howdy All.

My 1st post. I built these tools for myself.

rotisserie1.jpg

A rotisserie for my 60 Chevy pickup

rotisserie2.jpg


rotisserie3.jpg

The truck pics are a couple years old.. All the rust is now gone but it's still on the rotisserie..

garage3

Abrasive cabinet. Used a kit from TP Tools..
 

GzrGlide

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 19, 2008
Messages
96
Location
Wpg, Manitoba, Canada
You don't have to spend a bunch of money...
I made one of these not long ago... It's a pressure based model.

Take a flat plate (I have also seen people use a spare brake MC cover and do this too) and thread it for an air fitting. The idea is you want something you can clamp onto your MC and get a seal on.

Turn your air pressure down to 5 PSI or less (you don't need much). Put plate and fixture on the MC and turn on the air.

Go under the vehicle and crack the bleeder. Voila! It's like a pressure assisted gravity bleed.

Be careful NOT to let your MC go dry.

Simple, elegant and easy!!!! Now to figure out a way to keep the MC filled. I wonder if since you already have the air tight seal if the change in pressure would be enough to create a small vacuum that would draw fresh fluid into the MC from a bottle off to the side? hmmmmmm, worth a try!

Thanks for the idea. :beer:
 
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