Craftsman Drill Press

[FrankLee]

DP#152 - Part 16.4

Installing

Why was the pulley the last sub-assembly I installed into the head casting?

I find it much easier to allow the spindle to align the pulley bearings into the head casting rather than manually fiddling with the pulley to seat the bearings. It also eliminates fiddling with the spindle when trying to install the quill/spindle sub-assembly after the pulley is installed.

The first step was to liberally apply Super Lube grease to each spline and spread down.

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Then I applied some grease to the female splines in the pulley.

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Next, I slipped the pulley onto the spindle splines and fully seated the assembly into the head casting. The pulley is fully seated when the top sheave is ~3/4" below the rim of the head casting.

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The last step is to install the two pulley retaining screws.

 

[FrankLee]

DP#152 - Part 17.1 Model Badge and Head Trim Panel

Cleaning and Repairing

Many times, the badges and trim panels have dings and dents. DP#152 is no exception.

Often, the panel screws make the worst dents.

Because these components are thin aluminum, dings and dents can be easily bumped out. The key is to use a hammer with a convex face and a hard flat surface. I use this body hammer and this piece of solid-surface countertop material.

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My first step is to clean both sides of these parts with mineral spirits. Do not use acetone or lacquer thinner to clean printed parts.

Then, gently bump out the dents. Notice how the sound changes when bumping out the larger dents.

Next, cleaner wax removes the remaining grime.

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Lastly, buff off the wax.

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DP#152 - Part 17.2

Installing

Earlier, I mentioned that I drilled and tapped the mounting holes for the badge and panel. Installation starts with buffing the head of the brass screws for the head trim panel.

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The holes in the badge and panel had to be enlarged slightly for the machine screws.

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The head trim panel and the model badge were installed.

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[FrankLee]

DP#152 - Part 18.1, The Pivoting Motor Mount

This is the third and final version of the pivoting motor mount of this style. It has a clip and stud that threads into the head casting. The motor support base is very rusty and will require new paint.

Dismantling

First, I removed the shoulder screw, spring washer, latch and guide. With the screw back in place, I hammered out the threaded insert.

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Next, I removed the nut and bumper from the stud.

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Lastly, I removed the roll pins for the motor support rods with a press.

 

[Outlawmws]

That last post title needs edited.

 

[FrankLee]

DP#152 - Part 18.2

Cleaning and Painting

The small parts and the rods were sonic cleaned. All except the stainless steel clip parts were soaked in citric acid.

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The motor support base was cleaned with Grez-Off, rinsed and soaked in citric acid.

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This morning, all parts were pulled from the CA, rinsed and dried.

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The small parts were wire wheeled.

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I started wire wheeling the motor support base on the bench grinder, but decided the angle grinder outdoors was a better idea. I finished wire wheeling the inside corners with a dremel.

The next steps were a wipe-down with acetone, then primed, then topcoat.

 

[drs3317]

Frank,
On the 100 and 150 drill presses where do you prefer to install a power switch when you don’t have an original motor with the installed switch?

 

[FrankLee]

Frank,
On the 100 and 150 drill presses where do you prefer to install a power switch when you don’t have an original motor with the installed switch?

I do have an original 115.6962 motor with the built-in switch, but I also have, prefer and highly recommend a foot switch.

Craftsman Drill Press

I started tearing down the head today, and have everything stripped out without too many problems. The only thing I’m having trouble with is getting the feed stop bracket off of the quill assembly. Is that bolt that runs through it threaded on the backside or should it just slip through. Mine...

www.garagejournal.com

 

[Cruzan80]

Frank (or others), I may have asked this before, but (hopefully soon) getting to the point where I am thinning down a herd ad deciding which to keep. Any easy way to determine the best spindle/quill/combo amongst a few? Not sure if removing the spindle and sticking it in V-blocks on a surface plate would have the least variables, or if leaving it installed in the quill wouldn't really matter too much.

 

[FrankLee]

Frank (or others), I may have asked this before, but (hopefully soon) getting to the point where I am thinning down a herd ad deciding which to keep. Any easy way to determine the best spindle/quill/combo amongst a few? Not sure if removing the spindle and sticking it in V-blocks on a surface plate would have the least variables, or if leaving it installed in the quill wouldn't really matter too much.

I replaced all the unique internal 100 parts with 150 parts. IMO, a quill with the retaining ring is probably the most important upgrade. Also, you should keep a Jacobs 633C chuck if you have one.

You should be able measure run-out using a dial indicator with a magnetic base without removing anything.

I like the rapid-adjust feed stop, the pivoting motor mount and the feed handle hub/rods with the 1/2-13 threads.

 

[Cruzan80]

Yes, I was just referring to multiple spindles/quills and trying to select the "best" one. It will have a 633C on there, with locking ring. IIRC, I have a three 100 and a 150 combined to sort thru. I am aware of the differences for the other parts, and will swap as needed.

 

[FrankLee]

DP#152 - Part 19.1, The Motor

This motor is an Emerson Electric model 113.12120 with a date code of K66, October, 1966. It is a split phase, sleeve bearing motor and is probably the simplest and easiest motor to refurbish.

Dismantling

The first step is to run the motor and clean the pulley shafts. This may sometimes help the shaft slide through the sleeve bearing.

Next, remove the terminal cover plate and the ground screw.

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At this point, It's a good idea to take a photo of the wiring.

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Then, with needle nose pliers, pull the power cord spade connectors off the terminal board.

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Remove the cradle clamps.

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Next, remove the four nuts and the through-bolts.

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Remove the motor from its cradle base.

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With a blunt chisel or screwdriver and hammer, loosen the fan-side end frame and pull it off.

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Pull out the rotor assembly.

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With a blunt chisel or screwdriver and hammer, loosen the switch-side end frame, pull it off and turn it sideways.

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Remove the two screws for the terminal bar.

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This stator is remarkably clean!

Back to the rotor assembly... remove the three washers and the retaining ring from each end. Note the order of parts.

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[M.Brane]

Thank you for taking the time to share your experience, and knowledge with us.

 

[FrankLee]

DP#152 - Part 19.2

Removing the Motor Badge

It's not always possible or practical, but IMO, a refurb is not complete if the badges are not removed. The panel screws for the motor badge on Emerson motors are installed into blind holes. There's no way to drive them out from the back side. Cutting a slot in the panel screw head is a common technique to remove them and is often effective. Here's how I do it...

I tape a large 1/4" washer over the panel screws to prevent damage to the badge. The washer on the left is one I used in the past. I apply wide tape over the new washer and cut out the hole. I then taped the washer over the panel screw head.

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Below is my setup. I have a piece of plexiglass in a slot cut into a piece of wood for a face shield. I clamp the end frame onto the bench and cut the slot in the panel screw head with a Dremel. A 3/16" slotted screwdriver removes the panel screw.

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Sometimes the head will break off. Check this post to see how I deal with that.

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