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This thread has turned into a hive of activity. I figured it would get some people thinking. I should really give a bit more background on the build. This engine I am building is to full race specification. This is a very detailed build right down to every nut and bolt being replaced. It has all...

I was hoping to hear from you Nastyzen given all the fabrication work you have done on race cars. I find it interesting your comment that if they are equal length it wont change a thing. If I for instance have say a tube that has a few 45 degree bends a decent distance from the head, and...

That is the logic behind the idea. Re-jetting the DCOE is not going to be the answer. When the jetting is perfect for #1 to #3 it is lean on #4. It is a result of the intake manifold design. The easy answer would be "run injection" but it is not an option either. The carb and manifold setup is...

Primaries length will be 36 inches before it hits the 4-1 collector. My question is really if I should add a couple of tighter radius bends to restrict the flow somewhat on #4 whilst keeping the length to 36 inches. I have quite a few options here. My rule of thumb is no bends tighter than 45...

Thanks for the tip. It is however my understanding that my "Flash" is different from an unprotected flash, like you mentioned. I have read that the flash that you get when wearing a helmet is nowhere near as bad as one without. Apparently you still get the almost all the UV protection from the...

I am currently building up a set of headers for my single carby (40DCOE) car. The engine I am building is notorious for running lean on #4 (it is a 4 cylinder) due to the design of the intake manifold. I am wondering from a theoretical stand point whether there is merit in adding a sharper bend...

It could definitely do with a wipe. I have blue eyes, so I guess that does not help. :) . I will be giving it a clean and turning off the lights on the weekend to see if it makes a material difference. That all being said, given I purchased a Miller Digital Elite, I think my CigWeld will be my...

I am currently fabricating a custom set of headers for my car. I have been thinking of duplicating my mild steel mockup in stainless. I have read about this paste called "Solar Flux" that one can paint on the inside of the tube prior to welding. Apparently this creates a good purge inside the...

Yeah, it was a tough decision to not go with the Speedglas. Seems like a really nice helmet. If I was running a MIG I would go with the Speedglas and the filter/air system. It looks awesome! The X mode was one part that got me across the line with the Miller Digital Elite. At the moment I am...

The helmet is a Cigweld Weldskill variety. It is the solar powered type with two optical sensors. I have decided to pull the trigger and purchase a 4 sensor type in the Miller Digital Elite. It was a tough decision between the Miller and the Speedglas. I found that people on forums (anecdotal)...

Over the weekend I spent some time TIG welding an exhaust I am building. I was sitting at a bench with florescent ceiling lights behind me. For some reason sometimes when I created the arc I would get flashed (the helmet would not auto-darken until way too late momentarily blinding me). This did...

Thanks Mjb. This is helpful. Good to hear the clamping system was accurate. Shame about the other parts.

I am looking specifically at coolant based wet cold saws. Not dry-cut saws. An example of a Chinese (or Taiwanese) made saw is: http://www.machineryhouse.com.au/S829 The equivalent western made saw comes in at around 6k.

I am considering finally ditching the abrasive saw and taking the plunge and purchasing a Cold Saw (wet) for metal cutting. I am considering purchasing a cold saw manufactured in the far east (western world saws are well outside my budget). I want to hear from anyone that owns one of these...

Thanks for the leads. I will follow each one up. Please note that I am specifically looking for 30 degree bends of 1 5/8 pipe. 45, 90 and 180 are sold everywhere. 30 degrees however seems difficult to find.

A few to get you started: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=12388 http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=136334 http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=31226 Sister site threads: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=470820...

I am having issues locating 30 degree mandrel bends in stainless. I found some on Ebay but unfortunately the quality was poor. I have contacted a bunch of places but sill no luck. These are for an exhaust system with the goal being to keep the bends as "straight" as possible. The 30 degree bends...

I will change the chop saw blade. It really messed up the cuts. I will also give the carbide burr a try. The 3m wheels look great, although pricey. I frequently use the 3m small wheels on the die grinder. They do a great job polishing steel and aluminum. Stainless rips through/blunts metal...

I need to remove some pretty ugly burrs on stainless pipe (care of a Dewalt dry abrasive saw) of 1 5/8 diameter. Hand filing is extremely slow going. Sanding drums are ineffectual. I have not tried a carbide burr yet. Does anyone have a good quick way to clean up the pipe?

That is great news. I will have to check Bunnings for a set. If they are Made in Australia I would feel compelled to buy! :)