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Could get a composting toilet for #2 and drain anything else to a French drain, be sure to use all biodegradable cleaners.

Does it still smell with the dryer disconnected? I've always checked for leaks with a lighter

Yeah cut up some 2x4s, say 12". Pin it to the side of your truss at the proper height. Then nail up your strapping. Just don't cut the 2x4s so short that they split on ya.

When I have a project I usually get a rep from a lighting company to come on site and spec fixtures if it's a retrofit or conversion. Otherwise designers and engineers spec them and I have drawings. Perhaps you can contact a local design and or engineering firm if you can't find enough info...

You could use a T slot, they're more durable since they're rated for more power. 15amp plugs are fine too. The most important thing - get a spec grade outlet, stay away from low quality residential outlets, and never use the friction type plug in connection on the backside of the plugs

Use the 1/4 tapcons, 3/16 predrill. I hate those small diameter ones. Get longer ones as well, try 1/4 x 1 3/4 tapcons. Get 5/16 drive since your not countersinking them.

How did his references check out?

Id run it in the wall then back out a couple feet up. Prevents mechanical damage at the floor.

I hate R values. 4" of closed cell out performs, tradition r45 blown in with vapor barrier etc. Air tight and air sealed is one of the most important aspects.

Here in Ontario services get grounded at the point of entry only. Any sub panels are bonded back to that. The thinking is multiple grounding points of a single service can create ground loops. However, sure makes it easier.

I like uponor aquapex. Expanding pex. Cut at fitting. Install a male npt to pex, stub the pex, put a plug. Ready to go.

I use a rotating transit level. Its made by hilti. Great for setting grades too.

Good work. Next time just pull the mains out, tape em up, old panel off, new panel on, untape your mains and hook er up! Kidding actually don't do that. I'm glad I don't do residential, id hate having to deal with that to get a service energized. Just did one today. 200a 600/347 incoming...

For strict fire separation you need to fur out a new wall in front of the fire separation for your devices. Other times they just make us fire stop the boxes edge at the drywall.

They don't wear out quickly at all

I've never pulled AL in my life! Always copper. Engineers always spec it.

that's when I waste no time cutting until I find it. Let them patch it. Or have the gc call them back and find what they burried.

If you put osb and ever have a fire there's a good chance your house will be a total loss. If you use type x there will be a chance. That was one of the deciding factors for me as I frequently use my welding machine, torches and my grinders, I have x4 fire extinguishers in the corners of my shop...

Finish it all with 5/8 type x. 3 coats of tape, airtight. Keep fumes, etc out of the house. 5/8 type x is strong as well.

My high level alarm is very loud. If I'm not home and it goes off it has an aux contact which will shut down my well pump. Stopping any water supply. Mine is a liberty pump unit. They have high level alarms that can also alert your phone.