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Are you talking about bolt holes for the jaw insert? If so, they are there but they are full of **** and rust. I had to look closely for one of them when it was sitting in front of me. Now I have to see if I can get the orange paint off. Maybe some brake-cleaner or goof-off.

I think you guys are right.....below is a pic I found on google after searching based on you guy's answers.....looks about right, even the color. bigcaddy - what you are describing for the the rear nut is correct if I understand what you're saying. Nothing sticks out the back. I knew I should...

Who said anything about selling it? I just want to know what it is.

Found this vise on the shelf at my Dad's. He passed away in 2011, so I can't ask him....what is it? Looks like it used to be a green-silver color and someone painted it orange. Jaws are 5" wide, opens to about 6 1/2", weighs 48 pounds. There is no stop or anything, if you keep screwing after...

A little late I guess, but is this what you were looking for? Best example is probably on the wall of the restroom at your local gas station. http://www.menards.com/main/paint/paneling-planking/paneling/fiberglass/fiberglass-reinforced-plastic-textured-wall-paneling-khaki/p-1966053-c-8168.htm

I guess if you always used you torch and welder at the same time that would be ok. I find for what I do I very rarely use them both on a project. My guess is that's why you've never seen one....most jobs don't require both tools, and as clyde said....it would be big and cumbersome.

....or stainless steel.

I have a 36' wide, three bay. In my opinion that is the minimum width for 3 bays wide. 34' is too narrow for 3 bays, and too wide for 2 bays, so I would eliminate that option. 32' is also still a little wide for 2 bays, and definitely too narrow for 3 bays (comfortably). You need to decide if...

The kraft facing on the insulation is a vapor barrier. No need for anything else. Make sure the vapor barrier is always on the conditioned side (heated or cooled) of the insulation, so facing inwards to the building.

ah, I see what you are describing is a little different than the pic i posted. I would call yours a continuous return, but I see some references online calling it a "pent roof".

It's an eave return.

that thing is gonna do wheelies

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=282901

Where in SE Michigan are you? I know of a fab shop that sells drops at a reasonable price ($0.55/pound). They probably have what you need on the rack. Send me PM if you want the info. Its in the metro Detroit area.

Asphalt roads are sealed. They only seal the cracks, not the whole surface. The point of sealing is to keep water from getting through the cracks and undermining the base. You should do the same thing with a concrete drive and seal the joints and any cracks.

sounds like fun

Then why did you post it here?

If they choose to do that, their choice is their choice I guess.

I would hire the professionals for something like that. I have one alarm that covers both the house and the barn, but the buildings are set up as partitions, so one can be armed and disarmed without effecting the other. I watched the guy program it to do that and it didn't seem very user...