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do you leave them outside in one place 24/7 ?

instead of a permanant receptacle for the HWH (which likely wouldnt be code) just use a little transfer switch for the water heater and the appropriate inlet.

the ends will get water in them and corrode.

water gets in the replacement plugs and they corrode. just live with the 6ft cords.

Hubbell has GFCIs made in USA. The only reason they exist is to comply with buy american act for spending stimulus dollars. I am willing to bet they are VERY expensive ($40-$50 ea?) here's the product brochure http://www.hubbell-wiring.com/press/pdfs/WLDG001.pdf

replace that fuse panel with a breaker panel with proper seperated neutral and ground bars.

Ok here's the place that has the cheap 120v coil 25 amp relays http://www.apexelectronic.com/omron-G4B-112T1-FD-US-RP-spst-120v-ac-coil-relay you could put these in deep 4S boxes (i have one switching a 2nd outdoor lighting circuit with the coil powered by the first lighting circuit which is...

guys this is a 50 amp receptacle, likely fed with #6 which is not going to get wrapped around a screw. And these receptacles have a screw clamp type terminal that can only take one wire. If its a plastic box just land the conductors on the receptacle and call it done. If its a metal box pigtail...

the E is for extended life, i belive the 30 is 3000K and the 16 is the length

thye should have them, theyre over by the other fluorescent lamps not next to the screw in CFLs. The type of lamp you have is a 26W PL Fluorescent lamp.

what about making up a switch panel that in turn controls a bunch of relays to switch your lights? I know a place that has 25 amp relays really cheap, ill post a link as soon as i find it.

the breaker tripped because you were presenting it with about 40 amps (CFLs, 15 x 1.2A = 27.6; heater, 1500 / 120 = 12.5A) it took longer to trip at that current level than say 40 amps of heaters because the current draw from the CFLs is pulsed not continuous like a heater so it took a few min...

it always irks me that inspectors are constantly missing the fact that ufer ground is not optional. If you have a footer with rebar in it, you HAVE to bond the rebar...(on new construction, and inspector has to sign off on it before the pour

you cant put your slab on top of those lines. Typically whats done in this scenario is to put a new service on the new garage and feed the house from that.

you cant power the hour meter off one leg and ground. The ground cannot be used instead of neutral. You need a 240v hour meter.

does the hour meter just need power to count? or does it switch the compressor on and off? if it just needs power to run the meter you dont need to use #10 for it. 10/3 (and 10/2 is the same size) SJO is huge, needs 3/4" knockout and fitting. The cord fitting you posted wont work, the knockout...

you want a PG-9 Cable gland, the thread OD is 0.60 take a look at mcmaster p/n 7310K12

i dont see why not...

i see the bond screw in that buss, but wheres the feeder's neutral? and wheres the GEC? something doesnt seem right. can you post a pic of the whole panel?

those are little panels and the branch circuit size limitation has nothing to do with branch circuit ampacity, but rather wire bend radius in the gutter area of the panel. this is an anomoly for these little panels and doesnt reinforce your max branch circuit 1/2 panel ampacity thing.....