Search results

you could have used #10 for the ground.....

totally off topic but it seems like there are a couple people in here who know about this stuff: i have a pile of nextiva s1704 and s1708 network video servers. does anyone know of any cheap or opensource software I can use with these besides zoneminder?

remember all in wall wire must be rated as such (CL-2) dont run the clear parallel type speaker wire, most of it is not in wall rated

i would really use a new panel. Used breakers is generally a bad idea, you dont know what's been done to them during their life (how many overload trips, how many magnetic trips due to short circuit, exposure to corrosive fumes, etc)

i would replace the 30a breaker for good measure. how old is the service to the house? depending on available fault current and breaker curves between the main and branch breakers things like this can happen.

find out how much power the equipment requires and go from there. I bet its only an amp or two. If thats the case, I would consider using a pair of small (and cheap can get used ones for $20 or $30ea) control transformers to step up to 480 and run some 16/3 tray cable. That would get you 1 amp @...

thats some very expensive wire. you sure no one is looking for it?

probably not a GFCI but 30ma GFEP. The manual is probably for another country originally where such things are more common when their voltages are 220v to ground. I would just put it on a regular breaker.

so I ended up with a full size CO2 tank. can i exchange it for an argon tank? or can it be converted to argon?

i was shop vacing fine dust from MDF and was getting 2-3" long lightning bolts from me to metal (man that hurt) i then improvised a ground strap with some wire wrapped around my hand to a 1M resistor to ground and the problem was solved.

it will cost you alot more than that to upgade later and with a 400 amp you only have 10% headroom so I would do it...

GFCI supplying a subpanel is the last thing you would want to do. GFCI's belong as close to the point of use as practical. Furthermore with the cumulative leakage between all the wiring and the devices plugged in the gfci would be tripping all the time.

personally I would use a box or conduit body to transition -seems like the conductors would be shredded when entering the 1" hole on a 4" reducer unless it was a bell type. Maybe stack two bell types, one from 4-2,1/2 and one 2,1/2 to 1"

i have both of those, new in the box Hubbell ill see what shipping would cost...

VFD but get a good one, not some random off ebay. Practicalmachinist has alot of info on them.

i have this thing and swear by it. just used it to drill a bunch of 5/8" holes about 5" deep into some 50 year old concrete. (i use bosch bits with it, not the HF ones)

i highly doubt you will get the wire out of the bx. is the bx embedded in the plaster?

the heaters might only cost 100 but all the extension cords, subpanel, breakers, boxes, receptacles, etc is going to cost another couple hundred..

there are security camera power supplies that look like an alarm cabiner and have a large 12vdc power supply with multiple outputs each individually fused. id use one of those.

maybe find a used electric heat furance, locate it near your panel, and run flex duct to where you want heat