How to go about this is going to depend on a couple of things. The first thing to understand is whatever attaks the extra is going to attach what was meant to be there.
Peeling it off, lightly sanding and reapplying (smooth) is not a bad idea. Likely the intercoat adhesion is poor. If it is...
Wow looks like this post is back from the dead :)
First and foremost, let me say that the biggest difference is not in the product (that is huge too) the biggest difference is when you need help and you call me (you would have my cell like every customer) or Scotty at Legacy or likely any of...
Be careful with coatings under tile. If it is a glossy coating with little traction, the tiles can move around. It is not typical but it happens.
I find the TrueLock Ribbed flow-through tiles to be the easiest to keep clean - compare price to RaceDeck Freeflow. I probably would not put a...
Armorpoxy and Shea have given some great advice. The cold, hard truth is knowing what you know: if the floor fails later and there is any indication of moisture, you are going to have a hard time getting any help. In a really bad situation, you will have wasted thousands of dollars on something...
Good morning,
The polyurea system is outstanding. If you select it, I would suggest a two-coat or three-coat system. It is important to understand that all coating systems have limitations. Weld slag has the potential to damage any system. Harsh chemicals left on a floor long enough on any...
Just for clarification, G-Floor is PVC, not rubber. This may seem trivial, but it isn't. Rubber mats are thick, heavy, and smell. They also absorb automotive fluids and swell. PVC mats are lighter, thinner, and more resistant to automotive fluids.
First, I want to address the jack issue with an unpopular answer. Be it a piece of plywood, metal, or jack plates, we recommend using something under your jacks for every floor we sell. While many of the flooring options we have are more than adequate, taking an extra 30 seconds to protect the...
I would not use a sealant over that concrete as is. It definitely will not be easier to clean than a good tile. Based on what you describe I would use Racedeck diamond.
One thing that helps a lot on a full broadcast is to make sure you sand between the flake and the clear. Broadcast to complete rejection, vac, sand, vac then clear. It is hard to tell from the photos but a couple of layers of clear may make this floor look way better.
We sell large repair kits for areas like this BUT it would be overkill if you are not doing a coating. garageflooringllc.com/product/concrete-repair-materials/
If you want to do a coating that will last you are going to need to etch or grind. There are some sealers like Ghostshield 8510 you can do without the prep, but they are just that, sealers.
Definitely tiles over mats. Highly suggest either TrueLock flow through tile or the HDXT diamond or coin tile. All fit that budget.
garageflooringllc.com/garage-floor-tiles/
You can see a lot of different tile projects here
garageflooringllc.com/category/garage-floor-tile/
You will want to clean it, lightly sand, solvent wipe and go over with a product like our AWF Polyurea. I would suggest a spread rate of 200 Sq. Ft. per gallon
I would suggest Ghostshield 4500 followed by 8510. 8510 is overkill but it is solvent based so it is easier to ship this time of year and it is easily the best penetrating sealer we have seen.
Lots of excellent coatings here. I would suggest our 3-coat Polyurea system or our full broadcast polyurea system. Legacy and Armorpoxy have very similar products as well.
Our system focuses on more material for a better build. and Polyurea all the way through.