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I'm just a guy who's been using the same set of $30 Craftsman wrenches for 15 years now, but..... It's a bit different when you're looking at the difference in money between a decent set of wrenches vs. a high-end set of wrenches and an entry-level (Hobart) vs. a professional's Miller or...

I bought a used Hobart 140 that had next to no use for like $300 bucks or something off Facebook Marketplace. And it's the best decision I've made regarding a welder. I will say, I am not a professional welder, I just use it in my garage. But it's a fantastic machine, at least I believe so...

If you're able to spend a little extra, shoot for a Hobart. I am not a brand junkie, nor am I a hater of Harbor Freight, but I have owned that exact welder. It is absolute junk, at least in my opinion. And if you return it because it is of poor quality, HF will charge you a restocking fee. "It's...

So spent some time in the garage today trying to put together a jig or "anchor" to pull the seam weld with. It's not the prettiest, but I think it will do the job, especially with the assistance of a slide hammer. Each of these turnbuckles is rated at like 300 lbs or so, though I have zero...

Just leave the rod a bit longer than necessary, make threads a bit longer than necessary, then cut off the excess afterwards removing any non-straight threads at the end.... would that do the trick to make sure you have straight threads?

Thank you for the suggestions gents, it is very helpful advice. I agree entirely with "no home runs, just base hits" approach to this repair. I am going to give a slide hammer a shot, but I believe I'll have to be building one myself to make sure it is short enough to fit under the car. I don't...

I have an older Craftsman drill press, model # 113 24630 ( first pic below), and it is missing a swing arm/hinge (whatever it is called) for the top cover. In the second picture you can see the swing arm that is at the front of the top cover, but then as you move back towards the back of the...

Thank you for the book, I'll make sure to check it out. Any other suggestions on reading material? Also, the slide hammer had been considered for about 10 seconds at one point but I dismissed the idea, perhaps too quickly. I could get the car back up onto the cribbing I built for it, but even...

The next thing up on the car to be fixed is the inner sills, rockers, floorboard, and pinchweld on both sides of the car. I took a few minutes today to start cleaning up the area to get an idea of just how extensive the damage is and also brainstorm how I'll go about making this repair. I ended...

So.... big change here! I've found that social media platforms kind of **** and are not the venue for chronicling this restoration. That being said, I opted to start a Youtube channel where I can upload videos. I am brand new to video editing, so there is definitely a learning curve associated...

I appreciate all the tips. I agree on the neutralizing any chemicals. The reason I was not too concerned with it is because I plan on having this car acid dipped anyways later on in the process of what I am doing here. The little MIG is amazing. It's nothing special, but it works...

Absolutely sick work man. One of my favorite threads on here.

Today was an extremely frustrating day, TIG welding is not my friend. I'm able to TIG alright on a bench and metal that is 18 gauge or heavier. But just spot welding on vertical and upside down surfaces was extremely infuriating as I was having little to no success. I constantly had issues with...

I've heard good things about Rust911 for rust, I'm currently trying out Loctite Naval Jelly which seems to work well on rust but not paint whatsoever.

So after some contemplation I decided the core support will go back in to the car permanently, rather than making it removable. Once I put on the fenders, lights, crash bar, and bumper it was obvious a removable support was somewhat a pointless endeavor, or at least not as beneficial as I had...

Unfortunately I did not take any photos of the process of repairing the passenger side cowl. Only a finished product photo. It's not 100% perfect, but at the end of the day, most of this area is covered with another brace that gets welded in. But overall, I think it turned out pretty well and...

Yesterday I began removing the top layer of steel from the cowl to replace it. I was thinking it would be a huge pain to get the spot welds holding the support to the cowl ground off, but it was easier than I expected. I just used a belt grinder and took my time grinding throw the cowl until the...

Unfortunately the existing support is rusty and needs to be replaced, I can see that. Also, it is spot welded from the support side, so there is no way to actually see where the spot welds are on the cowl and it's impossible to get a drill behind the cowl even if I could see where the welds are.

Didn't realize it's been almost 2 months already. I'm working on two different things at this point: 1) Planning out how to keep the core support removable, and 2) repairing the cowl area (this is where I need suggestions). This is the area to be repaired. It is outlined in blue sharpie. Also...

Progressed a bit more today with the core support and cleaning up the flanges on it. Below is a before pic of one end of it. Similar to the chassis, it was just a bunch of fix holes and cleaning it up. And after pictures. I still have a bit more to go on cleaning up the core support...