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What's amazing to me is how much of that lowrider paint work is done in home shops. I did a lace job on a bike tank years ago what a pain never again.

Your looking at about$1500.00 in materials to paint that truck. It doesn't make sense to skimp on the prep work. I'd sand for days rather than try to blend in a repair.

I'd like to share a couple of random thoughts, any scratches of other damages you put on the metal while removing paint will need to be repaired before the repainting process. I've used some of those paint removing scotch brite type wheels and find them worthless. The best method I've found for...

I don't think that you know the counter balance weight of the crankshaft webs. The bob weights should be the weight of both pistons.

I find fault with your logic. You are using one data point to assume that the crank assembly is out of balance. The weight difference of the pistons could be compensated for by the crank counterweights. If you want to check the crank balance you need to put bob weights on it and spin it. I find...

Back when I had one of those job things I managed a fab shop in the high end vacuum coating industry. One wall of our assembly bay was used for fasteners. Steel shelves with cardboard bin box's. Started with 2-56 through 1" most sizes in socket head and hex. The cardboard box's held up amazingly...

PM me I'll give it a shot.

It's really easy to burn through that thin tube it might be better to braze it.

Look in the electrical section of your hardware store for a goof plug for a metal electrical box. That and a nitrile washer should fix it.

If you put that old buss on your woodland you'd make it look like a junkyard.

The photos of your last trip make the tires on your jeep look huge! What size are they and what gear ratios do you run?

It takes about 1,400*f to affect the strength of steel, that hot would melt or burn off all the plastic and rubber in those machines. My concern would be if you can resell them for enough money to payback your initial investment and the cost of refurbishment. That would mean that you would need...

Your wood lathe looks like something sold on this side of the pond called a Shopsmith. Sort of a swiss army knife of wood working tools.

Congratulations Mike you've accomplished something I was never able to do. You fired an A-hole customer! In the corporate world I worked in all my customers were internal and there was no way to get them to go away..

It's function is to keep a tap perpendicular to a surface when hand threading or to hold a pin perpendicular for installation.

I've never heard of the phone book trick, I was once accused of being a dope smoking hippy because I had some zig-zag papers in my tool box. Phone books don't exist where I live.

That is a Kwik-Way profit pair. One is for drums one is for rotors. If you don't have the cones and adapters their not good for much.

I think that you should get some material to practice your machining on. Some 5052 or 6061 aluminum would be a good start. Trying to machine unknown scrap can be an unpleasant surprise.

Do you have a Tap Plastics in your area? They have a solvent cement that works for Lexan and may have small bits of Lexan avalable.

A small tool that you will need right away is an edge finder relatively low cost. Some pig mats on the base casting of the mill will cure most of the oil spill problem. Do some research on what lubricants your mill wants so you have them on hand. Motor oil IS NOT a good substitute.