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Most of the metal is flat (that's good) and attached to adjoining pieces via flanges bent at 90 degrees. Those flanges are all rusted to heck and no good way to separate the two pieces? Wondering if its best to cut it all out and start over, or there is a better way.

Curious if anyone has a nice tutorial for cutting out and replacing skins where it intersects the side. Also wondering if I'm better off patching, or if it would be better / less work to do the whole side or the whole floor. Probably not interested in a new tub. Like the accomplishment of...

Im in the same boat and interested in options. I have a WiFi thermostat but it only goes down to 40. Don’t need a weather station, just something tha can measure temp and connect to WiFi.

I'm getting a CNC plasma table and need to buy the cutter. I know everyone says Hyperthem is the best, but they are quite a bit more than even the Lincoln and others. What really differentiates the "good" from "bad" cutters? Langmuir for the Crossfire Pro recommends the Razorweld 45 which is...

Yeah, I've been trying to buy one. Something is wrong with their CC system as none of my cards work.

I have a 1760 that I've been tryng to buy a $20 sticker for a month ($4 + 14 shipping). For some reason their system doesn't seem to take my card(s) and they don't know what's wrong. I'd be happy to buy a Wilton 1760 sticker (and posibly pipe jaws) if anyone has any?

I have a Wilton 1760 bullet vise that I am restoring. After disassembly, I sandblasted all the parts to clean it up in prep for paint using the Garnet 80 grit. It seems like it's pretty fine media and I want to make sure I get it fully clean before painting / reassembly. What are you guys all...

Nobody has one of these?

Im wanting to make a tool stand for my drill press, two bench sanders, and bench grinder. Im envisioning it being squarish, with 1 of the 4 tools at each corner. I'd like to make it out of square tubing and put casters on the bottom so I can roll it out of the way. Curious if anyone has done...

Thanks guys. I found someone in my neighborhood with a 2 post. Just hoping I can find someone in south KC area that may have a 4 post I could check out in operation.

Whats BLO? And what did you sell that Wilton for?

I would snap up a $400 Bridgeport if it ever came available. Let me know If you find any more

I did like 400 feet of 3/4 to my shop and there is great pressure

Thanks guys. I'm really torn now. I was set on 4 post, but I really think a 2 post would be easier to work with. I see Derek Weaver and Greg Smith both have 9000 lb two posts that are around 1700. Seems like a big price hike. My 0.5 ton crew cab doesn't weigh over 6000 lbs, so I'm not sure...

Ready to pull the trigger. Struggling with a few questions I hope the experts here can help with: * Size - It looks like even a 3/4 ton pickup can fit on an 8000 lb lift. Not sure what would drive the need to go bigger (I see many do 9K or 10K)? Same questions on length...I think even crew...

I’m also interested in this. Not to distract from the original thread, but I’m also curious what people have liked in the “next size up” from a size and table cost perspective (what the best options are) Scott

Anyone have any us links for the devilbiss gun and pps parts I need?

I have an old HF gun that I have used for primer for years that is starting to do a poor job. I have a jeep I am updating that I ideally want to paint myself, and Id like to upgrade to a little better paint gun that can potentially do both primer and finish paint. It's a jeep and not a show...

I have a long gravel driveway. Has been in place 20 years. My asphalt quotes are all over the place. Some say I need 5 inches, others say I’m fine with 3 given the good base. Is 3 inch typically acceptable? How long relative to a concrete driveway does one typically get out of asphalt?

When you spot weld with tig do you use any rod? Or just weld them without