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I combined an old Troyke rotary table with some old drill press parts to make a variable speed welding positioner,

Yes. 1/8" thick mild steel.

Scrooge and his CNC plasma cut buddies have come out of hibernation, and are getting ready for Christmas!

No plans at present to do a Pontiac Solstice.

The dxf file isn't available, but the link below will take you to a line drawing of the Cobra shape. It shouldn't take a lot of work to trace over it or scan it. If you make it about 19" long, all the parts should be sufficiently spaced apart for cutting in 11 gauge mild steel. Gaps have been...

Last week I busied myself by cutting out these three 19" long car shapes.

My cutout is 18 1/4" long by 4 1/2" high. It is a fairly close representation, as I traced over a photograph to create the drawing. Of course, it is scaled down. Merc. dash looks similar, although instrument layout is different. Also, Ford has ash trays on either end.

Here's the rest of the car:

Just cut out this mini version of a '40 Ford dash fitted with a wireless bluetooth speaker. Put the Beach Boys on and it's almost like being back in my '40. Well, maybe not quite.

I built the table myself using over-the counter parts from MSC, McMaster-Carr, 8020, etc. Electronics and software are from FlashcutCNC (see photos below). I created the shapes using CorelDraw, and exported them in dxf format. More info on my table build and shape design can be found here!

I thought I would dust off these pieces I cut for Halloween last year. Last year I scattered them around my garage. This year I put them in my little home office.

Thus far I have stuck to cutting out shapes of the bikes I lusted after (and in some cases owned) in my younger days. However, it's hard to ignore some of the stuff they're coming out with in recent years. Two cases in point: Kawasaki H2R with 330 hp, 14.000 rpm redline, and 240 mph top speed...

A couple of engine swaps: Before & after Triumph Thunderbird/Vincent swap Norton Commando/Hayabusa swap (twin S&S carbs & custom radiator)

The tool is a Milwaukee 2467-30 impact driver. It has a max. torque of 50 ft. lbs. Most power draw bars are set to around 25 to 35 ft. lbs. It probably loses a few ft. lbs. in the extra right angle attachment, but it's still plenty. I try to be careful not to overdo it.

Here are some upgrades I made to my Bridgeport: Adjustable retractable casters KBAC VFD for stock 3 phase motor Servo X axis power feed DRO Pro Digital Readout for X and Y axes Milwaukee right angle drill & right angle attachment substitute for power drawbar 1/2" cordless drill with adaptor...

Two cables connected to single drum. One cable winds over the drum and the other under the drum. I modified the crank so that it clears everything when turned.

A suggestion: If you do everything i did, there's a lot of hole drilling. I bought a Rotabroach set, which made it a whole lot easier. About $85.00 with free shipping from Amazon - Blair part no. 11090. Probably even cheaper if you look around.

I like the Swag finger brake, although I don't use the fingers that much - just the entire surface. It's a little tedious getting it in and out to use it as a regular press. Most of the time I just leave it in and use my arbor press. I got the already welded version, as it was worth the extra...

Winch was from Amazon: Atlas part no. B085RTXMZX I fabricated the plates for the roller guides. Rollers are 1" cam followers from McMaster-Carr I made the release knob from an old timing pulley Finger brake was from Swag OffRoad (https://www.swagoffroad.com)