Search results

240 open delta. 120/208/240v. Only once have I mistakenly used the 208, and yes it's marked, but on the cover which was off when I installed my DSL modem. Didn't even notice the orange wire was connected to the slot I was using.

Another, yes they do. I've had two examples, a 40A two pole that not only failed, it burned a hole right through its case! Then a few years ago, the 100A main for my shop panel opened. Not tripped, just open circuit with no handle movement. Installed by my Dad when the shop was built in...

If that is directed at my response, the answer is, it absolutely does solve it. Just push the start button and it is 'forced' to start.

2x4s that long won't be adequate for any lifting IMO. But, you could build a structure extending up from the steel beam to use as a hoisting point. Or, look at 'truck crane' at HF or other places for ideas. Mounted to the steel that seems workable.

I guess DA means different things to different people. To me a DA is like this one: https://www.dewalt.com/product/dwmt70780/dual-action-sander. This type can be used as a random orbit sander or a rotary sander by locking/unlocking the pad to spindle connection. The other I refer to as a...

The unloader is normally included in the pressure switch on cheaper units. The pressure switch would remain, and trigger the starter.

I'd also try a palm nailer first. Simpson screws are approved for that also. Impact driver and extensions?

You could replace the current setup with a motor starter that has a relay operated start function and a manual start button. That would also take the high current load off of the pressure switch since it would only be driving the relay coil.

Odds are long, but I just might get my shop organized! Thanks for the chance.

OK, I', curious about the red above. What would be the purpose of such a switch with no cap in the motor???

Daughters house is about 20YO, vinyl over OSB and housewrap. Same issue. Very brittle on the South and West sides. Slightest impact breaks it. Wind storm over the memorial day weekend caused a lot of small damage areas from tree debris and who knows what else was flying around...

I have two 'carports', one 42x21 and one 21x21. The larger is enclosed on 3 sides, the smaller just a carport. My daughter has a 21x21 fully enclosed, the carport with walls and a rollup door. Hers and my small one drip condensation badly, but the big one doesn't, I have no idea why. My...

T-111 is still plywood, usually 3 ply and yellow pine, at least in our market (OK). Smart side is an OSB product with an embossed cedar wood texture. Also very heavy as it seems to have a high binder content compared to normal OSB. Usually comes primed but also available prefinished. I...

This is weird! in the original post above I was quoted, but it wasn't my quote, it was someone else who said that. Is this a forum issue or did you manually add the quote info?

Normally, a sagging door header will cause the walls to bow inward not outward because the header becomes shorter as it sags. So look and measure carefully to determine what's really happening. Most 16' door in my area were installed with double 2x12s with a piece of ply sandwiched between...

I get that, but they are different companies as I understand it. LP provides the siding, DK provides the finish, and installation processes are different, at least the online stuff I've found is. I just did a small amount of LP and my supplier, (local lumber yard) doesn't even handle the...

I was confused as I've used Smartside before and never heard saw the term 'diamond kote' before. So I searched for it. Smartside and Diamond Kote are very different. The one you're using recommends a metal starter strip to angle and lock it in place. Smartside doesn't. I've always...

I would first examine the exterior water drainage and flow directions. Because it appears to me to be water born salts from below as others have stated. When that happens, about the only cure is to mitigate the water. Stop runoff from pooling next to the foundation, install exterior...

I'd bet the red above is the source of a majority of the issues. Wrong alloy used in the clones metal parts causing corrosion. Sizing is erratic/wrong causing conductor damage. etc etc. IDC tech is not all bad, in my previous life we used thousands of ribbon cable terminations for DB25...

Way back when (you don't want to know how long), I worked in a full service station. We had a wash rack and a number of weekly customers, and monthly wax jobs too. We used a tire cleaner concentrate from a 30 gal drum. Can't recall the name but it was not like 'normal' WW cleaners today...