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Folks with no business ownership experience think of 'pay' as the hourly/weekly rate an employee receives. So $50-100 hourly is good/great. What's missing is the added taxes and payment to another employee to calculate all those. Then Rent/Insurance/workers comp/etc are on top of that...

It's really common in warmer areas with infrequent snowfall for the first several hours of snow to melt on contact. That can and will accumulate in low areas, cracks and appear later. In my case I've noticed that snow on concrete always melts from the bottom up, which adds to the...

Agree, especially with YP material. It tends to become 'unstraight' as it drys.

More likely they are referring to some brands of fiberglass batts that use kraft with a very thin coat of asphalt on the batt side. I've read in a number of places over the years that a good latex paint is a very effect vapor barrier, that over the properly applied and finished wallboard...

If it were me, since romex is not approved for that use, I'd run THWN in 1/2" plastic conduit. smaller conduit is ok IMO with THWN/THNN wiring, especially stranded and it pulls/bends so much easier.

I'm not gonna start a fight. just read NEC article 630, welder circuits, calculate the wire size from it. And be prepared to be surprised. I'd be the other posters recommendation isn't far off but it depends on the duty cycle. I've run my 200A stick welder on a 30a breaker and 10ga wire...

No easy way as the added conductor has to be in the same raceway or sheath, as I recall. Good news is there is really no safety related reason to do so. Just protect every circuit with either a GFCI breaker or a GFCI recepticle as the first after a normal breaker (or fuse). JMHO, and I think...

Back in the 80s I had a zinsco 2pole 40a fail spectacularly. It was hooked to my welder circuit in the shop. I struck an arc and the breaker blew a hole thru both halves! Huge hole through the body of the breaker. Huge arc flash, but mostly hidden in the panel and lots of smoke but no...

Yes, it depends on the angle and thread form. Some are self locking at low loads but may freewheel under heavy loads. I had one, the strap rather than cable kind, that would seem to lock, but when you turned it to lower the load it would begin to free wheel. That one had a low ratio, not a...

The winch solution has the same risk. You still have to stand in the walls fall footprint. And risk a winch never intended for lifting. No Cheap winches are rated for lifting. Only pulling.

If attaching to a solid 3/4" board wall I wouldn't use blocking at all. With that type of wall finish I'd just use a lot of screws. Probably pocket screws. Lots of holding power and shear strength in those. Maybe a small block built into the top of the cabinet for the initial hanging...

And/or screw stop blocks to the outside of the treated plate, Only need a foot or so with about 4" above the plate to stop the wall from sliding out. Wall jacks will be a great help with raising a fully sheathed wall, Or some help. I've done it solo using 2x's to lift ends in stages and...

I think having a conversation with a truss company would be worthwhile. Explore making the entire upper an 'attic truss'. One piece that rests on the lower story walls. Would require a crane to fly in place, but very low on-site labor costs. That could offset part of the truss expense...

the main reason for mag starters on tools is to prevent unintended restarts. Say a breaker trips while sanding something. You leave the 'something' on the belt or against the disk. then go reset the breaker. Without a mag starter the sander (saw,grinder, whatever) will restart when the power...

I also have several of those. Amazing strength for the weight. easy to set up and take down. A little bulky when folded compared to others is the only drawback. My first ones must be 30 years old now. I think I have 8 of them and none have broken or folded in use.

I've cut concrete with an abrasive blade, metal with metal blades. My roofing steel supplier does not recommend abrasive for painted metal as the hot particles damage the paint and cause little dots of rust over time. I use a disposable quality saw with abrasives on concrete or stone, (pawn...

IF you have a wooden door, not metal: Scribe the bottom panel, cut to the scribe line, paint and seal, then install the seal. Scribe by closing the door and marking the bottom panel parallel to the floor. If metal, I'd recommend an attachment to the door bottom shaped as described above...

Some of those, usually ceiling textures, have plastic pellets in the mix to add texture. Not sure if the one you're looking at does. Those tend to be a rougher texture and cover imperfections better if that is important. Otherwise I don't know of any specific improvements, one over the other.

I know what you're looking for, but I've never seen that retainer nut as a service part, only as part of a replacement lamp socket. edit: Well I'll be darned! I looked at what I wrote, used 'lamp socket retainer nut' as a search term and there are hundreds of sources!

Maybe I wasn't clear enough. The installation uses a starter with a 120v coil. that coil has it's power provided by the pressure switch, and in parallel a start button. So either does the trick. Common configuration