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Long story short, I've had more than one brand, major player and Pioneer. I needed an additional unit. Bought another PIoneer. No matter what brand you buy, now is a good time to get a deal on an R410A unit as lots of distributors are clearing them out. Why Pioneer? In my case, poor...

I vote for filled cores, but with concrete mix, not mortar. Just buy sand mix, gravel and a bag of Portland. mix up the sand mix, add gravel until it 'looks' right. Then add a shovel of Portland to makes it stronger and flow better. The gravel is just to reduce the amount of more expensive...

Wow, I've not seen a open dump system in forever. But, the lack of an old leach field is good news IMO. No old pipes or gravel to deal with while digging the new trenches. I've never heard of a concrete tank failing short of collapsing from overloading. I'd go with one of your $4500 bids.

The red part is why one small pocket in my nail apron has duplex head nails in it! Use whatever length size you want and nail tight. The second nail head is always available to allow adjustment.

I have both ends of my pipes threaded and keep some couplings handy for long glue ups. Of course there is some flex, even with longer one piece clamps. That's the major reason for alternating top/bottom clamps. Even if the size of the glue up doesn't require that many. More clamps...

Keep mistakes to minimum by never working from plans, or at least never let anyone else see your plans. Then every 'variance' becomes an 'improvement to the original'. They'll have to take your word for it.

Well there is a better solution involving fire. Work with cherry, oak, hickory and pecan. Buy or build a good smoker. Cutoffs and mistakes make good eating meats!

First turn off the breaker and remove it from the box, then disconnect the load side wires. Turn breaker back on, Then reset, if it will there is an issue with the downstream wiring. If not it is bad.

But he's not talking about the air handler, the condenser. I sure hope nobody is putting those in the attic!

IF, big if, the heat removed from the cooled area increases the temp in the open area, the difference in temps will reduce the efficiency of the unit. Probably and insignificant amount, but under the right circumstances it may cause an increase in power consumed. The wider the temp difference...

Every recpt box I've set was and will be, the distance from the floor to my hammer claws. Hold the hammer by it's head, put the end of the handle on the floor, mark the stud with the claws. Use to put that mark at the top of the box, now use the bottom of the box, as it's easier on my knees...

Normally there are not fasteners on the ends. Once the nails on the vertical edge are pulled and the snapped in place lock is unlocked, the PVC will easily flex out of the channels. Actually, once a couple are out, the rest will just lean off vertical and come out.

The linked battery states 700CCA, that's impressive for the size! I wonder if the CCA is rated the same with LiFePO4, flooded lead acid and AGM?. IF so I might use one of those in my project truck. 56 Dodge, originally had a big 12v under the drivers feet. I want to move it to the engine...

I always have also. Designed to clean holes in non-ferrous metals without damage. Mine are slightly undersized with a short spiral ribbed section to scrape the hole walls clean without damage. and, I can always find it! in my welding tool drawer.

Yep, mentioned in another thread that I have a 20something YO Century like that. Italian made, now owned by Lincoln.

I'd test the run cap, just in case. Or just change it, they're cheap. I've not had good luck with those small physical size 5hp motors.

The last two thing mentioned are key. Real solvent contact cement on both surfaces and dry. Use a few dowel rods or similar to hold the tread up until positioned, then remove the center one.

I'd bet the ones you've tried will work, after lightly sanding the tread backside. I don't know what it is about that shiny side that's against the mold, but it really acts like a release agent until it's no longer shiny. Or, a real stair tread adhesive might work as is.

IMO, if the blocks will not be below grade, nothing is really required in the cells. For tiedowns, I'd much prefer drilling the slab, through the cell, and using an epoxy to bond it into the hole. The bond between CMUs and the slab is not very strong at all in many cases. Sika makes a good...

My point was that the 'little' repulsion/induction motor performs on par with 1.5/2hp motors on later saws, allowing production speed rips even with my full kerf blades. And I can assure you that my finished 1"(rough 1 1/8-1/1/4") walnut and oak tax most 1.5hp saws. I've owned several 10"...