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There's a reason nobody uses swamp coolers in places like Houston or NOLA, and why they work well in western NM and Arizona. Also, my experience with portable AC units is that the are half *** at best. You can either cut a hole in a wall and mount a conventional AC unit through it, ro save up...

Just staple kraft backed batts between the ceiling joists until you can cover it with something like drywall or OSB.

7/16 OSB. Lay in full sheet or cover no less than two joists. About 1 3/4 lbs sq/ft

I got it fairly tight and caulked the seas with a nearly-matching color caulk. No paint.

Ortho Home Defense and/or fogging under things with Yard Guard. Then once in a while I hookup the longer spray tip and use compressed air to blow the floor debris out the door. That zamboni is the way to go, very nice.

The guys I was buying my OSB from in 2011 said that the price on OSB was pretty much determined by what they got billed when the truck showed up. It was as bad as crude pricing, bouncing all over. I paid $7 off a contract for enough to finish the shop, at the end of 6 months it was double.

I bought a cheap 36" ceiling mount from HD, just screwed it to the ceiling, wired it in and threw the fancy motor cover in the trash. Does a decent job of circulating air from the AC unit.

Same - consider stretching your budget some https://www.harborfreight.com/tool-storage-organization/u-s-general-tool-storage/top-chests.html More space allows better organization. Tools, smaller spare parts, etc in one place. Says the guy with 8 various tool chests. :lol:

You've never owned a battery cart then. They eat them for breakfast. And for most cart chargers, if you lose one battery after 2 or so years, it's recommended to replace all at the same time. Ours was a 36V - six 6V batteries, $600 or so a set for the cheap Sams units.

I'm LOLing because at 80F we'd not even get in the thing. That's "freezing" in Texas.

And buy their book on it, good read.

Same fittings here. The bonus also is that if a section needs repair or replace, off it comes. Or if you need to get something pretty good size in the yard. If your fence is over 24" tall, you best be setting things in concrete. As for the power pole references, I'll post a pic of how the...

If you were on Oak Island...

20' deep? For a lift, I'd go 28~30 because it'll be tight work.

Looks like the same base mold we use in this house. Kudos, I would have just feathered the ends into the pole and gone on down the wall.

>although why it chose now to fail, after 8 years, I don't know. It was waiting for just the right time to piss you off. "Inanimate objects" my ***. :lol_hitti

40', the area where the cars sit is 28' wide. Left post is 25" off the wall (back of post to wall). Door is 16x7.

I'd ditch the 4x4s and go with heavy galvanized chain link end posts set in concrete. They will outlast several fences and owners.

"Deep" or "Wide"? 24' deep

I just spent 5 minutes with the Lowes thing - fail. I'll be looking at this one later: https://www.timbertech.com/design/deck-designer/