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In the Schneider (Square D) link I posted it says this as well. IMO the main difference between QO and HOM is that QO has many more accessories/parts available for commercial applications.

A residential panel will be a 40, not 42 (unless it is a main-lug panel), but will likely now be a 40/80. 225A is really a commercial rating. If you were to somehow go with 225A everything would need to be changed, not juts the panel.

Unfortunately this is pretty common. An even slightly poor connection can create enough heat to melt insulation. It is a myth that anything and everything like this will trip a breaker. That's simply not how it works. I have seen receptacles and splices glow orange without the breaker...

Just be careful with crimping them. You really should use a proprietary crimping die, but if you're good you may be OK doing it "manually" with a standard crimper.

Yup, that certainly is an MSD connector. I've never seen that on anything else.

THIS is one of the many problems I have with the code. We are required to use TRs for standard 120V, but if you have tools and equipment that require 30 or 50A 240V receptacles, like a welder (and we know how rare those are, right?) then you can have as many of those as you want, which are...

May I ask why you need 100A to the garage??? Will it be a commercial shop, with several people working at the same time? Do you have a large commercial welder? Will you be running large kilns for pottery? It is pretty rare that any residential garage or shop would need over 50/60A. I would...

Directly from Schneider: http://www.schneider-electric.us/en/faqs/FA124258/

I'll turn the tables, do you have and substantiation that QO or CH is any better than the others?? Or are you simply basing this on price? I don't know for fact, but I heard QO and HOM have the same trip mechanism, only QO had the indicator. Many/most panel brands are available with a copper...

NONE of the residential units are designed for continuous use. Expect to pay around three times the price for a lower speed (typically 1800rpm) and water cooled unit for any kind of long term continuous use. You realize, 20kW is roughly 85A at about 65A full load, Right? 20,000 watts divided...

IMO this is the most valid reason if any work is being done.

Have ANY new name brand panel installed and sleep well. The old "Sq D QO is better" philosophy is wildly over-rated, IMPO.

I've looked up at too many of those damn things my whole life. NO WAY could I deal with one as a work light. Cool application though.

No need for this. Primer is not necessary. This is electrical conduit, not plumbing.

Exactly. Don't understand why this is so hard to grasp. Inside an underground conduit is by definition a wet location. Doesn't matter how or why.

Anyone that says don't glue electrical conduit has NO idea what they are talking about. You do not need primer, but you absolutely need to glue it. Yes, water will get in, it's expected, but this is why we need to use wet rated conductors and cables. If you need to replace your phone line so...

A breaker will definitely trip with almost any amount of current if the stab connection is corroded or burned. The poor connection creates so much heat it fools the breaker into tripping. Have seen it many times with outdoor panels. The only way to check this is to remove the breaker and check...

Missed that. Thanks. :thumbup:

If it is part of a cable assembly you can re-mark a white to a hot. Regardless of this, a neutral is always a current carrying conductor.

Even though all the pros here are (correctly) saying it's a violation? It's easy to throw around incorrect advice when you are a lay person, huh?