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This is quite an over-dramatic statement. If using #2AL for a 100A service to a complete home is safe, what is unsafe about using it to a small residential out-building? I am for blindly following the code, but when it is blatantly contradictory, with no good explanation as to why, even I...

Some areas will allow #2AL on a 100A breaker. Around here it's SOP, but I usually use a 90A just in case. This is one of the stupidest parts of the code IMO. #2AL is good for an entire dwelling main panel, but it's not enough for a 100A sub-panel off an existing dwelling main service? Hogwash...

You cannot put two wires under a terminal Personally I'd use Polaris connectors, but that will get expensive fast. More work is split-bolts, but will be much cheaper. You'll likely need deep 4-11/16" boxes to keep under fill.

I'm pretty sure this is wrong.

Got a quote on that? This is one I never heard of. See NEC 210.23

Auto techs also charge $95-$125 an hour. And you have to bring your **** to them. I charge $79/hr, and make house calls, with a van/tool/material combo worth around $100K. I assure you, I am not "undercutting" anyone by saving 10-15% by buying a portion of my material online.

HAHAHA....If you start throwing Home Depot material price quotes around no one outside of a handyman or side jobber is going to want to work for you. That is a huge red flag to professionals.

If this is a simple service upgrade/replacement, none would be needed or required.

This is mostly true, but not for all things. Home centers get you on the nickel and dime stuff. They sell panels, breakers and NM cable cheap to get you in there. You are comparing apples to oranges. You can get the exact same stuff at both places.

Do you know any real electricians that do service changes at T&M?

That is a simple service change/upgrade. Cost of parts is irrelevant. 100A - ~$1600-1700 200A - ~$2100-2200 Then again, I am (as most real electricians are around here) on my utilty's contractor tap-on list. I can break and re-make the utility taps on the house. This saves a $400 tap-on fee...

Hockey tape and gaffers tape are NOT electrical tape. People will always do what they want, but these should not be used for electrical purposes.

I have to correct this. I think a more accurate way to say this is: "In rare cases 30A and greater outlets are restricted to a single outlet on a single dedicated circuit."

Personally I say leave it. If someone is that stupid to do such a thing they deserve the consequences.

I think that was electric radiant, wasn't it. And the installation was BLATANTLY unsafe, and it was also done by a supposed professional who should have known better. Same goes for the electrician who wired a 3-way to a garage and used the bare ground as a hot to get constant power out there. A...

Yeah, don't do that. :lol: Fix it right. Have an electrician have power shut off by the POCO and he can then install an expansion joint.

I expect it. :lol:

For the purposes of inspection he is wiring receptacles, not motors. This is a dwelling setting, not a commercial shop.

Nope. Not AT ALL possible with the wiring you have. That is a switch loop with a hot in and a hot out, and NO neutral. Ignore the colors you see, the white is a hot. Best bet is to run a circuit for a new receptacle. Bathroom I assume?

I fully agree with this, except the bold part. Around here any contractor worth hiring has more work available than he can handle. I get a few panic calls a week that someone's guy didn't show up, or never called back, and that everyone they call is swamped. I tell them I am in the same boat.