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Just curious why you decided to go attached. Seems like you have plenty of space to go detached and would have had less disruption. Just curious. Thanks for the great thread. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I had a Rinnai RUR98i installed last fall. Went 199kbtu because we're on a well and our ground water comes out at about 55 deg F. With three females in the house (and me) it's the best thing I've ever done. No more cold showers for me (I'm always the last through the shower at night). For what...

There is no reason you can't place a transfer switch between the main and a sub instead of between the service and main. Done all the time. Works fine. I'd prefer a whole house system (with an appropriately sized genset in fact that's what I have) but there is no reason you couldn't do it like...

To recommend a wire we need to know the route. Is it all outside? Are you planning to run conduit? If it is all (or mostly all) outside then 2-2-2-4 MHF will work well. If it goes inside for a good distance then I'd go with Individual THHN conductors. Either way I'd put in conduit. Sent from...

When I had mine put in the regulation I was quoted was 18" from exterior walls. Mine is further than that now because I had it moved when we poured the driveway for the shop by originally it was 18" from the side of my garage. As for Windows I don't know there aren't any on that side of the...

I would think that those of us on this site are in a position to help develop some specification templates for detached garages. I'd think we could develop something for each common type of construction (pole, red iron, stick etc) that would put the average homeowner in the ballpark of a good...

Re: Designing detached garage - looking for input I'll just give you my cost figures. I'm in for about $30/sq ft for a metal building with very little done to the interior and a standard exterior. Now mine may be a little high because of the slab requirements here (we have expansive clay soil)...

The problem you're having inside the barn is due to the fact that a metal building is a reasonable approximation of a Faraday cage. The router on the house end is fine and you can leave it alone. What you need is a solution where one antenna is outside and one is inside. Something like this will...

If it is freezing temps where you are wet slab and let it freeze then crank heat. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This is the main piece of advice I give friends and family when they are hiring contractors. Put the things you care about in the contract in objective terms. So instead of something like "walls will be acceptably true and straight" put "walls will be plumb to within 1/4" top to bottom and will...

Yeah we have all the equipment for that level of install and used to do it exactly the way you describe until we realized that we were spending a bunch of money on something that was never going to be an issue. It is extremely unlikely that the normal homeowner (or the systems we install) will...

If you want to add additional capacity the easiest way is to add a two pole breaker and one wire and make the whole thing a multi wire branch circuit. Saves lots of pulling. That being said you are only at 15 amps with lights plus microwave which is fine. Just don't run the microwave and...

This is always my recommendation for detached structures. Not because of interference. Its the ground potential differences during surges (lightning or power grid) that can kill expensive network equipment pretty quickly that make this a really good idea. I've installed plenty of cat5e /...

Even then. The vise is probably the mostly used item in my shop.

On the tubing one trick is to either let the slab get hot and run cold water through it and you can see the tubing with a cheap thermal camera or to let it get cold (freezing) and then put water on it to make a layer of ice before running hot water through tubing. Those are the ways I've seen...

Sell it ... To me. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'd sleeve the power/solar (not sure if it is on the DC or AC side of the inverter) in a flex (or pvc if it is a straight run) and then the way you have it is just about right. Might move the water over with the gas but nothing else. Mixing things that might make sparks with gas would be a bad...

Use 240V. If you keep everything pretty balanced between legs then there should be very little neutral current.

Exactly. #4 Cu is good for 85A per the 75deg C column of 310.15(B)16. The garage is not a "dwelling unit" so you don't get to use the 83% factor from 310.15(B)7 when feeding in the garage direction. When you turn it around to feed the house which is a "dwelling unit" you do get to use that...

They are supposed to be, but there are several brands that are close enough that they will fit. It's not a legal installation but it works in a pinch. If you run #4 Cu then that would be enough to support the house at 100A if you ever turn it around and feed it that way (Code rule 310.15(B)7...