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Got an estimate for an installed Mitsubishi mini-split for my shop build. $8500 for a 3 ton unit for the shop/garage area and a 1 ton unit for the finished office space. I figure I can get 2 large window units in the shop and a smallish one in the office for a about $1500 or so and "install"...

I'm interested in what you do. I'm building a shop 300 ft back from the road (I'll build a house later) and utility will only run it to 150 ft, the remaining is on me. I'm thinking of setting a pole with 400 amp service at 150 ft, then running 200 amps to my shop. That will leave 200 amps to...

So you dont recommend hd6600 for this application? If I acid stain, dont I need a sealer over top? Fred

I've been told by a local concrete products retailer whom is also an auto restoration hobbyist, that he recently removed the concrete sealer from his shop floor. He said it can not stand up to gas, oil, trans fluid spills. He said it was worse than nothing and gave an example of an oil spill...

Been thinking about this. I am building a clear span truss building, and will leave it open space initially. I figure I can add curtain walls to divide as I like later, if I want. I like the wide open space though. I can survey at my pride and joys and smile. Nice.

Sorry to HiJack the thread a bit, but I've been told you can't cut control joints in a post-tensioned slab (presumably due to the risk of cutting a cable). Should I ask for tooled joints or some other substitute. It's a big slab (44x60), and it's on clay soil. Fred Tulsa

I'm building a 44x60 ft shop for auto restoration, but I want the building to be versatile for me as well as any future buyer with differing needs. I'll be spanning the 44 ft width with engineered trusses. The walls will be framed 2x6 stud walls on footings. I'm conflicted on the building...

$5 per sq ft in Tulsa is typical for slab, or .90 per sq ft labor only Footing $3.50 per linear foot labor only Fred

Yeah, this one is electric. Funny, they don't have a power switch, just plug it in and it goes.

I bought a vintage Maytag washing machine today for my shop. I'm always hand washing towels and stuff, this will be easier, better, and way cool. Note the roller wringer. No plumbing need either, just fill it up with a hose, and gravity drain it. $145 and works like the day they made it.

I'm building a 45 x 65 x 12 shop building on footings and a turn down slab. I'll be using conventional 2x6 wall framing, engineered clear span trusses (a mixture of scissor an attic trusses). It will be used primarily for auto restoration and storage of my collector cars. I got bids from 3...

What is the best way to insulate scissor trusses? (Normally, the ceiling is the most important part of the building to insulate, but there will be no ceiling...) Fred

Sounds like J-Bolts are the way to go. The framer tried to talk me out of them also. More labor for him too, I guess. F

I've gotten a couple of bids on my footings/slab concrete. I asked for J bolts to be placed in the wet concrete for use in securing the bottom plate. This is the method used when I worked as a summer construction laborer 30 years ago. All the concrete guys try to talk me out of it, and say...

Anyone have experience with these in their shop. I usually work with the garage doors open, so cooling with ac doesnt work too well. Quite expensive, home depot has this at $3500 http://www.homedepot.com/p/Big-***-Fans-ShopFan-14-ft-Large-Circulating-Fan-Kit-F-PF61-1401S34/204316763#. About...

Well then you must like big brother telling you what you can do and can't do, no matter how stupid the rules are. I'm telling you the area has run down agricultural buildings and shops and old junk cars and livestock. Building a high quality aesthetically appealing building would be a nice...

I like the idea of a single course of block to get some additional ceiling height and to be able to hose out the shop without getting any wood wet. How is the bottom plate firmly attached to the block. I was going to use j-bolts in the wet concrete to attach the bottom plate, but this won't...

These are exactly the design concerns I have, and wind shear is an issue in Oklahoma.

I'll be framing my shop with 2x6 stud walls on a footing and turn down slab. I had planned on a metal building, but with conventional framing I have a lot of other options. Is metal significantly cheaper than other options? What a about fiber cement siding? It's awesome. Fred

This is the kind of thing that makes me certain I will never apply an epoxy over my shop floor.