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AWESOME SMALL BUILDING. Find a local wood timber supplier with aged or reclaimed lumber. Maybe install in vertical or angled 45 degree to the old boards. (or all of same). More new or old lumber 1x4 1x6 for ceiling and insulate first. replace the twisted outer wood Put a side sliding garage...

maybe you could MOUNT AND ROUGH IN: install the meter base on shop #1 MOUNT IT run an underground cable (120') to shop #2, I would dig the trench LAY THE CABLE WITH EXCESS AT ENDS install 200amp breaker panel in shop#1, nothing else here MOUNT BOX install 100amp breaker panel in shop...

That's a lot of bad repair work by someone..bad prep equals bad paint and durability. The earlier paint blush and orange peel is just to top of the iceberg. BTW, you are better off **** welding the replacement panel, overlapping may have rust later between the overlap. Using a high build...

600 grit wet gummed up, so did 400, 220 didn't and I achieved a good scuff on the entire car..........?? I have to ask, did you wet sand or dry sand? I cannot imagine prep sanding with 220 on any painted surface unless you intend to apply a primer or on bare steel. If you wet sand with 600/400...

That American Forge vise for $225 has been listed forever and ever and ever at same price. lol.

Welcome from north of Atlanta..

I like it- (the car) and shop..just keep the cars inside and off the jack stands outside.. If I did not have a side entrance garage- I'd be in trouble with HOA all the time.

..or just lay down a bench roll matting over it? :)

The Old Wizard One is on target, 22 AWG is good for 3A 12VDC used frequently for marine electronics, auto and other uses. A few things to keep in mind. There are pre tin, bonded and bare copper and have a variety of of wire constructions (single strand wire x count per cable) . You need...

I'd suggest a outdoor rated construction gap filling adhesive, secure the trim board with a few Tapcon screws recessed into wood, fill with wood filler and seal/paint. :)

Zebra, pilot and pentel..

No if you did a vapor barrier it would be on the inside. Not necessarily as requirement.

Use a urethane adhesive like "gorilla glue". Clean out with alcohol, drill tiny hole at end of crack to relive crack cracking then scribe a groove in the top or bottom for adhesive or apply adhesive then spread open part for getting adhesive on inner sides of crack.

I'd do a poly vapor barrier as well.but yes, simply nail or screw a short stud in place.

Unless you store these tools in an air conditioned garage or really keep care with a periodic corrosion resistant coating or oil the black oxide will tend to oxidize over time. Similar to impact drivers.

#1 suggestion- do not bang the center of the dent. start at the outer areas and work inward. it only stretches the metal making for more work. #2 most of the dent has "residual stress" at the side where the dent is deepest. As the area is reduced in side it will normally require less force to...

That be Bosch (among the best)..

I bought one similar to the red tipped one above. Purchased the Autocraft tool which was useless- I ended up just using an angled "vise grip" and pry bar. Tore the rubber then grabbed the metal contact. This was on a Ford V6. Like someone said- when you replace the wires- use some dielectric...

Welcome, Guess the snow season is over a few weeks..

Depends on your drill bits..in traditional terms all you'd need is a Jacob chuck with matching Morse taper or similar). :)