Search results

Looks interesting...making me look for a flattish-style handle...

This. I have to ask myself "if the engine were on a stand, what method would I use?", so I can't "punish" the engine (and myself) by rushing, doing something out-of-the-norm, in the name of "it's really cramped in here and I'm tired of having to fight with this radiator support."

I'm looking into this now, thanks!

Thanks. I started with the plastic razor blade/scraper, was (still am!) nervous about a metal version, but I may need to get over it! I'm seeing a pattern here... I tested the Dremel white nylon brush on the aluminum water pump, it did in fact start to burnish it, so I guess if nylon can do...

Going thru this myself and have a question... I'm at the stage where only a fingernail and a brass wire brush are removing the last bits of old water pump gasket, and at that rate, it's gonna take about a week! If I'm ok using the brass brush (and so far, it's not harming the surface--iron...

I've been using the Capri impact universals ("adapters") with Pittsburgh impact sockets, or Capri stubby impact sockets if space is at a premium. So far, so good, but I've been eyeing the Capri universal impact sockets, or a more compact impact wrench!

Slid off like butter! Thanks for all the tips, stay tuned for the next episode of Zen And The Art Of Overthinking!

You're twisted.

Years of experience with this drill, it's always had this wobble, but I've only recently discovered GJ! :D My only comparison to "it shouldn't wobble this much" is an old Craftsman corded drill, and drill presses. Oh another Ryboi I bought to replace this one, but I feel it "wobbles" even more...

Just google "drill concentricity" and a product video from Rohm was the top search result!

Just giving it the "eye test". There is A LOT of wobble on the chuck (older Ryobi drill), but not sure how much of that is transferring to the end of the bit.

Concentricity...that's the word I was looking for! Thanks for the info, I guess the arbor being "off" is probably what I'm experiencing.

If you were to put a dial indicator on a spinning chuck, should it measure zero, or as close to zero as possible?

HORRIBLE design, as are most things on this engine. It's a 1994 Nissan Pathfinder V6. Replacing the water pump and timing belt. And I will hafta repeat this process on a 2002 Nissan Frontier, same engine. Seems that most (all?) who do this repair go into it knowing they will hafta destroy the...

This sounds interesting...how is the lip/360 degree "hook" created?

busted!

"Over"??? No such thing, only "additional"! :) From my understanding, the best approach is to drill holes so you can then use a steering wheel/harmonic balancer puller. There's not enough room behind the gear for a jaw-type puller.

Update... Well, several test prints and a 3D printer later, finally got the jig to satisfactory results. I learned about "heat set inserts" during this process, but couldn't find a suitable size for this jig, so I went with brass bushings. Not sure if they'll spin on me, or get chewed up...

Just picked up this screwdriver rack from HF, neat, but not as space-saving as I imagined. Now, the "front-to-back" arrangement won't work with this 12" deep box, which begs my main question (which may need to be it's own thread, but) why not make all tool boxes 16" depth, and do away with 12"...

Thank you! That could also work, and reuse the slot cutouts aa has been mentioned, to keep "guests" out.