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The scrap, yes...adding that to the 'measure once' technique, thanks.

Loud and clear now, sorry for the extra trouble, that clears it up!

That looks clean enough to eat off of...near!

Blammo! Make the panel cuts FIRST (will be using a circular saw), THEN cut the holes (hole saws), that makes more sense, thanks! (And on paper, i'm thinking of 1/4” gap around the pipes, but that might be, ahem, cutting it close!)

This sounds interesting, got a sketch or something so I can see how this works? I was planning to run "joists" that stop just short of the pipes, and cut the boards in a "puzzle" alternating style (kinda like a hinge) to rest on the joists.

Perfect! Thanks!

Okay, I may be overthinking this, but maybe not! Need to replace the "floor thingy" under the kitchen sink. Let's say the board needs to measure 24" wide, and I cut out holes for the plumbing fixtures, then cut that board into 3 pieces (along the dotted lines) to slip over the fixtures. When I...

Thanks, all! Will do something tomorrow (weather permitting) and report back!

Well, "one" question...if the jig holes are 1/8", and the drill bit is 1/8", should the bit not skate?

Been looking for a solution like this myself, but been leery since 'ruining' the finish of one of my wrenches using baking soda and vinegar, (i think that's the brew i used), the 10mm wrench (11 shown for comparison, no treatment). Is Evaporust not harmful to finishes?

Alrighty, just bear with me, please, this could be bordering on "excessive"...(too much "free" time!) Had this jig printed to help me drill the holes straight...the holes are the diameter of the center punch, to help guide it straight...now, do I even need the center punch, if the jig is...

Is it post #2 of this thread?

Now, those intrigue me, as the pick ones make me nervous, how'd you find out about 'em?

Add to that, the black version Craftsman are usually priced $100-$150 higher than the red/black, and they no longer offer the 3-drawer middle chest in black!

Nope, not much clearance. The "paperback" repair manuals suggest using pry bars, but others have said that will destroy both the shim/guide (behind the gear) and the soft aluminum oil pump. Will be busting out the drill and puller or drill and chisel!

And they got rid of the color-coding and messed with the logo!

(Just thinking out loud...this is overkill, but a 3D printed "jig" would probably be ideal, and I'm going to hafta repeat this process on a similar vehicle, so that might be work looking into down the, ahem, road.)

I've got one of those, but it's too big to fit on the gear face. Nope, the gear is recessed onto the snout of the crankshaft, apologies for that poor pic that doesn't show the depth. I like your circle-scribe method. I saw that that could potentially warp the crank? The gear obviously can't...

Greetings. Alrighty, not looking forward to drilling and tapping this crankshaft gear to remove it, but that seems to be the preferred method (or splitting it) but if I'm gonna do it, I'd like to do it as close to right as my means will allow! What's the best way for a shadetree to make sure...

Y'all are good, thanks!