Search results

I don’t have a kit, but I have a good selection of pullers. Seems like everything requires its own style of puller these days. Had to buy one a couple years ago for a dodge Neon, needed a long one. Just buy or rent what you need.

Really nice!

What’s your tractors lifting capacity? What the heaviest piece of the load?

Pumping grout in will work. T bolts don’t work well in cinder blocks. Ungrouted cinder blocks are pretty weak.

I bought a used Harley a few years back, had some sticky weights on it. I use balance beads, so when I put new tires on, I had a hell of time prying the sticky’s off. Those things were stuck. So, might try Harley.

I was an apprentice mechanic in the mid ‘70’s. I have a mix of SK & Craftsman mostly, with some other brands in the mix. The only Snap-On I have is a set of files my kid gave me for Christmas a few years ago.

Your sketch will work, and is a common method for this. You can build a furring wall on the edge of the slab for a finished room if you want. If you live in an area subject to termites, the code allows you to **** the slab to the foundation wall, and place rigid insulation on top of slab. Check...

They’re a press fit. I replaced the red tip on a hammer a few years; then promptly lost the hammer, left it at a job site. Still a bit pissed about it, I don’t often lose tools.

All I have ever used is the spiral type; they’ll work on most anything, even Whitworth!

Check to see if whatever flooring you use is compatible with the heat mat. Not sure vinyl plank would work. I’ve used similar products with tile, works well. It won’t heat the room much if at all.

Not sure what code you are under, but IRC requires continuous insulation under heated slabs. What are you saving by not installing insulation, a couple grand at most?

A water key usually needs to be only turned maybe 180 degrees or so. Packing a cordless tool and battery around for something like this in a survival situation seems counter productive.

Any extractor will work on Whitworth, as long as you’re using a Whitworth crescent wrench to turn it.

I'd get the high speed version, much more useful.

I wouldn't use jump pack, jump packs are good for high starting amperage, and I'd guess voltage would drop quickly. A maintainer only devise, is designed to keep a battery maintained, not provide a power source. With that said, my Noco 10 charger/amontainer has a 12v power source setting...

I have Milwaukee 3/8” stubby impact, a low RPM high torque and a high RPM low torque ratchets. The stubby has lots of torque, the ratchets fit better in certain cases. The low RPM high torque is slow, but good for rusty fasteners. The high RPM/low torque (35ft/lbs) ratchet is great as a nut...

I just retired from a career in commercial construction. We do multiple pours a lot; but the work is designed, engineered, and planned for multiple pours. If you have the correct rebar, the other main issue is water intrusion at the cold joints. If you think you can pour this by yourself with...

I always use a size that slides over easily with a bit of slop, then crimp gentle/firm. Don’t mash them. The chart posted above probably works well too.

You won’t get a tight fit with a Torx bit and SPAX screws. SPAX needs Torx Plus.

If the threads are “boogered”, use a thread chaser not a tap. A tap will cut new threads, a chaser will clean up existing threads without further boogering.