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For driving 3” to 6” screws you should have an impact driver, not a drill. Impact will be faster and last longer.

I've done it by getting a 2'-3' piece of sonotube, slit it, slip it over the two other pieces, secure with metal banding or ratchet straps.

I have a $40 Klien, work well...

Not sure if your vehicle is different from many vehicles I've worked on; but I always adjust toe, drop the vehicle down on the tires and adjust/center the wheel after.

Are there alternatives to the old hanging trouble light - yes. Old trouble light obsolete - no.

You could get some 1/8” plywood, paint to match the floor boards, and install over floor boards in attic. Then cover with insulation.

I have some old Lisle tools, as well as newer stuff; never had an issue with any of them. Lisle still sells parts for their tools, a big plus in my mind. Just yesterday I ordered a large bearing seal driver plate I didn’t have, for a 40 year old seal driver set. I didn’t know if the bearing seal...

You can usually mitigate the hinge effect by framing normal height wall and gable truss, then installing plywood sheathing vertically with the center of the sheet @ the top plate line. Also possible to use one or more full length 3x4’s to mitigate hinge effect. An HSS steel column can also be...

12' step ladders are a bit awkward to stand, 14' are a bear.

That patch looks like ****. However if it's "plastic wood" it's good for exterior use. Sand it down, re-apply if needed, paint it. Probably better than attempting to replace the entire panel.

This will work. You can also probably use a steel ledger for a brick ledge, instead of pouring concrete. Vary the air gap, no one will ever know once the brick is up. Plumbing the garage door opening should be pretty easy.

If the board is lifted on one or both ends, the blade will bind. Make sure the board is supported evenly. Cut slower.

That's not going to shift unless you pull the all the sheathing. Trusses nailed to to plate? You'll have to pull nails in trusses. It's just racked a little, as long as sheathing is nailed off, it's not going fall down. Other walls plumb? If so, just leave it and move on.

Not to hi jack the thread but, considering your experience - what do you think about these "fire blankets" that are now advertised? Good thing to have in some situations?

That RT is beautiful! I drooled over a DT 175, never did get one. Had IT 400 though, that thing screamed!

Sweet bike! I think ‘75 was the last year before mono -shocks. My HF motorcycle jack got stuck in the up position with a Harley on it. Bit of an epic getting the bike off. Bought a craftsman, been good.

You could do this, but if you leave it deep enough to get sufficient volume through it, you will have a big bump. If you leave it shallow, you may get water in the garage.

You must have provided drawings to the truss manufacturer, so I would think they would have designed the trusses to accommodate door tracks, if a door was shown on the drawings. Call the truss company to verify. If not, you’ll have to add some sort of structural members to attach the tracks to.

Wanting to have a couple of studs attached has my crystal ball saying you have an early '70 Bonneville tank. Yes? The studs are for the added tank strap to keep from splitting the original tank welds. I used to work in a shop that serviced British bikes. I've rarely seen spot fixes on those...

Good point!