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Funny, I just put almost an exact post on both questions a few weeks back. Just finished my first framing job on my detached garage and ended up 3/8 out on the sills (best I could get without too much hang off in any corner), and made it up on the top plate which came out within 1/8 corner to...

Thanks for the advice, this is the direction I will head. No aluminum, will be fiber cement trim and siding, including doorways. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

And do you guys think that needs to be Pressure treated since it will be in contact with the block? I can always slide a piece of roof felt behind it and keep it off the slap 1/2”. but then can’t used adhesive. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks Kevin Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hello all. I’m about to finish framing in my garage doors and not sure what to do with the last jack stud that will make up the final garage door width. The walls are on a 14” tall block stem wall, and so far I have all the required jack studs per code for the openings which sit on the wall...

The unfortunate part is that I paid good money to have this done, and waited several months as they were booked out. Doesn’t seem to be much pride in work anymore, everyone is rushing from one job to the next. Lesson learned.

Thanks, that’s on par with what I was thinking. Just need to figure out which corner is out of square and start from there. I’ll pull some measurements tomorrow out of each corner and see where they fall. Thanks for the advice.

Just had a 32x28’ foundation put in, and during the pour everything measured out pretty well, but now that stem walls are in, from corner to corner I’m about 7/8” out of square. Im new to the framing game, and wondering if 1” corner to corner difference will lead to more work down the road with...

Thanks, this is great information. A few comments, the purpose of the simple spans was more for lateral support as it seems like APA and a lot of articles online recommend simple spans with portals to achieve bracing requirements for narrow walls and still get lateral support to prevent...

This is how I have it drawn up now, but will bring the lvls a bit wider and add in some additional bracing as previously suggested and see what the engineer has to say about potential shear issues. I don’t mind putting in a couple Simpson strong walls, but I think they are limited to a 6 or 8”...

Unfortunately in this area, it’s rare or extremely difficult to find a residential structural engineer, and the county doesn’t require any plans or drawings for a permit. You tell a farmer what you want, and he starts building. I have reached out to a structural engineer I work with in...

As an update, this will be the eve side wall, not gable. All framing is 2x6 except the 11 7/8 lvl’s I already have access to so cost isn’t a factor. We are in upstate SC, so no particular snow or wind loads required. And I ran everything by the inspector, and he didn’t seem to care which way...

Trying to layout the front wall of my garage build. Measures 32' across, and each pier or stem wall between the 3 doorways is 14" tall x 18.5" wide. 2 garage doors are each 11' wide and the man door is standard 36". 9/12 bonus trusses will run perpendicular to the front wall. Block...

I ended up going full lengths, so will have a 10’6” wall. Had forgotten that my trusses sit on top of the bottom truss cord, so will add an extra 7.5” on top of that for sheathing anyways. Framing starts this weekend.

I thought it was no more than 6’ between and within 12” of an end?

I wanted a 2x8 to cover the tops of the blocks and clean up the look a bit, but also didn’t want 2x6 studs with a 2x8 bottom plate. Thought I would get weird looks from the inspector. And they used anchor straps which will be drilled through and folded over the mud sill, but not over the wall...

All, I apologize of this is a dumb question, but asked my inspector and he didn’t seem to care either way. So I know top plate seams must overlap by at least 12”, but what about the sill plate and the wall bottom plate? I’ve got a 2x8 pt sill plate over my concrete stem wall, and then will have...

Correct, the plan is to have the wall site on top of the PT sill plate. No local codes, just 2015 IRC which I believe is a 10' max unsupported stud length on a bearing wall. My biggest concern was to fit a 9' tall garage door, and try to get a few extra inches by way of a stem wall for an...

Hello all. About to get started framing and was wondering what the advantage is of one vs the other. My local lumber yard is out of 117 2x6 so offered up full length 10’ studs at the same cost. The wall will be sitting on 14” of block stem wall and a pressure treated 2x8 sill plate. I figure...

Makes sense. That's the reason I am looking to have some type of stem wall for the extra clearance. My garage door guy asked for 15" if possible, even with doing the side mount lifts. I met with another concrete guy today and he recommended 2 rows of block over the footer with a floating...