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Have you checked the in-tank check valve, if it is bad it can make your motor hard to run.

The aftermarket world has .020 under bearings for this machine. You can find the manual for this machine and the rebuild guide on the Quincy web site. The book on the Quincy site says 1977 for ROC 13 & 14 so this unit is only 40 years old. Still a pup.

I can't believe Compressor Parts want $295 for the kit. I can do the same kit for $210.

Gaskets, rings, valves are still available for the model 41. Rebuilt many of these machines.

Go to the Quincy homepage. Top center says "Brochures & Manuals", click on that. Then type in QR 320 in the search block.

Fix a cracked compressor tank! I love reading these pending "natural selection" threads.

If this is going on, you have a bad check valve, a weak motor or you're over-pressurizing your system. I had a customer that insisted on running his single stage, two cylinder compressor at 185 psi, and I was selling him a motor every couple of years. The compressor will keep running till...

What is going on here is two different things. 1) Compressed air through an orifice-- how you use air. 2) Compressing air-- how you make compressed air 1) CFM increases as pressure increases thru a given orifice, no dispute there. 2) Compressing air, you have a given displacement (compressor)...

And it's easier than any car engine!

Without an ID plate how in the world did you figure out it is a 370? 340 27" x 16" x 30" length, width, height 350 28" x 16" x 31" 370 28" x 16" x 31" Bore and stroke 340 5-1/4 - 3 x 3.5 350 6 - 3-1/4 x 3.5 370 7-1/2 - 4 x 4 Horsepower ratings 340 5-10 Hp. 350 5-10 Hp. 370 7.5-10 Hp...

The in-tank check valve is bad, that is why the unloader valve leaks continuously.

Could be a 340, 350, 370 or 390. All of those are 6 valve machines. Not a 325, that is a 4 valve. Without a nameplate your going to have to take off the head and measure the pistons.

You can have CFM or pressure, you can't have both. As pressure goes up CFM goes down. Plain old physics.

It all boils down to the getting the most amps out of the motor. The higher the amps the more rpm the more cfm. The higher the rpm the higher the wear. It is a balance game. In the past, there was a machine for each horsepower. What mfg. can afford to do that now? One machine, 3 different...

You are correct with the R and R-PL series. VP are Schulz compressors, repackaged for Champion (much less expensive when bought as a Schulz). Splash lube cast iron units. RV are the less expensive R series with a common valve plate instead of individual valves. Splash lube only. The R pumps...

Water is a byproduct of compressing air. The only way to eliminate the water is thru a drying system (refrigerated, regenerative or deliquescent). A coalescing filter will take out oil particulates and the larger water particles. This kind of filter will probably take care of your needs.

Why are you running 175 psi? do you have anything that operates at that pressure? While these units can do 175, with the age it's going to take a while. Lower the pressure, it saves wear and tear on everything. I've said it before, do you run your car at redline constantly? The old tank thing...

I just replaced a QT 10, with guess what? An Atlas AR 10. The old style QT 10 with the two pc. head is gone, replaced with the Atlas Copco designed pump. And I can assure you it was not made in this counrty. Atlas Copco is assimilating Quincy. Look at the Atlas pumps, you will find the...

In what way would you have to worry? The only thing I see unsafe on these two examples are the missing belt guards. If there is no rust thru or cracks in the tank, you're good.

True, you're not going to stop friction, but it will take a lot longer for the rings and bearings to break in. Diesters and polyol esters have a higher lubricity than say a PAO oil or dino oil. I've seen a small compressor freshly built and run with diester from the start. Two weeks later the...