sberry
Banned
It took me a long time to learn some of the stuff I could have in 5 minutes if someone shown me. Thats another matter but the statement above about galling is correct and I believe Nascar guys fuss over this. Rightly so.
Take a commom hwd bolt, run a nut on, feel it, run it on/off and even by the second time it may smooth noticeably, add a drop of spray,, even smoother. Even on a good Nat Course threat 40% of the torque is just to overcome friction, when its rough, dry the engineer says 8 times and that doesnt include outright seizure.
You can magnifry this with Nat pipe, screw a couple dry 2 inch together, even by hand, they get outright stuck, a little WD first and you can tighten and remove them. 2 problems with the installation,,, it didnt get tight and it wont come loose in simple terms.
Air guns are terible, this was a bit less of an issue when people used a 4 way but dry nuts are nothing new. When they come off with a snap it hasnt been installed right. The saving grace with hand tools is that they are slow, used a lot with coarse threads but do not make heat from real speed.
I have a manual from old Snappy Torgue wrench I have, says on the first page,, all values based on clean lightly lubricated threads. Got a nice chart for grade/thread/bolt apps and a list of common car stuff of the day.
If a guy went thru the full John Deere trade school they have a Fastener manual as part of the program.
In cases where we are using screw for r & run self drillers back out, put a shot of spray and run back in. I bought this old Mack Truck a French version and at first it looked like oh ****. I had a cab from the South but we had to ter the other one off and figured man,, it was rusty. All the stuff came right loose, they must have had super QC with the bolt lube and torque.
Back in the day we used more gallon products and spray bottles and today I like the conveienceand cleanliness of spray cans. Shopping was more difficult than also but we would add a couple cups of ATF to a gallon of WD40. The price and practicality changed, went to liq wrench and did the same but finally come to shopping spray cans on sale. I like about any of them at around 2.50 and under and am a case price opportunist. We loose a few to can damage, just a fact of life. Same with brakleen, try to score to go from sale to sale.
We have a lot of alum threaded pipe connections, one inch, have put a lot of them together with simple spray when the ideal sealer was not at hand, years later they come right back out, never know the difference. They used to grease them or common sealer and in some ways this seems to work as good or better in that app. Many a day have used hyd oil on the job as a thread lube for piping, its a thing of beauty with steel pipe, can turn it tight.
Take a commom hwd bolt, run a nut on, feel it, run it on/off and even by the second time it may smooth noticeably, add a drop of spray,, even smoother. Even on a good Nat Course threat 40% of the torque is just to overcome friction, when its rough, dry the engineer says 8 times and that doesnt include outright seizure.
You can magnifry this with Nat pipe, screw a couple dry 2 inch together, even by hand, they get outright stuck, a little WD first and you can tighten and remove them. 2 problems with the installation,,, it didnt get tight and it wont come loose in simple terms.
Air guns are terible, this was a bit less of an issue when people used a 4 way but dry nuts are nothing new. When they come off with a snap it hasnt been installed right. The saving grace with hand tools is that they are slow, used a lot with coarse threads but do not make heat from real speed.
I have a manual from old Snappy Torgue wrench I have, says on the first page,, all values based on clean lightly lubricated threads. Got a nice chart for grade/thread/bolt apps and a list of common car stuff of the day.
If a guy went thru the full John Deere trade school they have a Fastener manual as part of the program.
In cases where we are using screw for r & run self drillers back out, put a shot of spray and run back in. I bought this old Mack Truck a French version and at first it looked like oh ****. I had a cab from the South but we had to ter the other one off and figured man,, it was rusty. All the stuff came right loose, they must have had super QC with the bolt lube and torque.
Back in the day we used more gallon products and spray bottles and today I like the conveienceand cleanliness of spray cans. Shopping was more difficult than also but we would add a couple cups of ATF to a gallon of WD40. The price and practicality changed, went to liq wrench and did the same but finally come to shopping spray cans on sale. I like about any of them at around 2.50 and under and am a case price opportunist. We loose a few to can damage, just a fact of life. Same with brakleen, try to score to go from sale to sale.
We have a lot of alum threaded pipe connections, one inch, have put a lot of them together with simple spray when the ideal sealer was not at hand, years later they come right back out, never know the difference. They used to grease them or common sealer and in some ways this seems to work as good or better in that app. Many a day have used hyd oil on the job as a thread lube for piping, its a thing of beauty with steel pipe, can turn it tight.
