Blocking rust after evaporust?
- Thread starter Bmberzins
- Start date
four.cycle
Well-known member
^ depends entirely on the item and your intended purpose.
A recently re-worked hacksaw got a couple coats of clear acrylic Krylon on the frame to keep it from rusting.
I didn't use "Evaporust" on these 10-inch Eclipse snips, but after cleaning they got a coat of carnauba wax and a drop of MMO on the joint.
Not sure exactly what I'll do with these gigantic open-ends yet. They'll probably get the same treatment as all the sockets in the photo below: after the "Evaporust" bath for three days, they got a bath in boiling hot water, trisodium-phosphate, and "Simple Green", then a quick rinse and then about half an hour in a 250° F oven, and then I wiped them all down with a cloth rag and "3 in 1" oil. The ratchet, breaker, sliding T, and extensions all got a heavy coat of carnauba wax (after cleaning and oiling the detents on them.)
Would I recommend this method for tools you're going to use in a shop environment? Not necessarily. The wax made the ratchet and breaker slipperier than deer guts on a doorknob, but it will keep them looking pretty long enough for me to sell them.
YMMV
Every man on this website has his own method. More (and different) answers to follow:
A recently re-worked hacksaw got a couple coats of clear acrylic Krylon on the frame to keep it from rusting.
I didn't use "Evaporust" on these 10-inch Eclipse snips, but after cleaning they got a coat of carnauba wax and a drop of MMO on the joint.
Not sure exactly what I'll do with these gigantic open-ends yet. They'll probably get the same treatment as all the sockets in the photo below: after the "Evaporust" bath for three days, they got a bath in boiling hot water, trisodium-phosphate, and "Simple Green", then a quick rinse and then about half an hour in a 250° F oven, and then I wiped them all down with a cloth rag and "3 in 1" oil. The ratchet, breaker, sliding T, and extensions all got a heavy coat of carnauba wax (after cleaning and oiling the detents on them.)
Would I recommend this method for tools you're going to use in a shop environment? Not necessarily. The wax made the ratchet and breaker slipperier than deer guts on a doorknob, but it will keep them looking pretty long enough for me to sell them.
YMMV
Every man on this website has his own method. More (and different) answers to follow:
Attachments
Last edited:
Wakefield
Well-known member
Wipe the tools down from time to time or after cleaning them up with Power Lube or Liquid Wrench"Rust Inhibiter #LC9" on a rag or shop towel ? Maybe even with automatic transmission fluid (new or used)
Thanks, I have always had good luck with their products.
Although a different product, I like Metal Prep by POR15. It's a phosphoric acid and zinc phosphate product that will stop rust from returning, unlike evaporust. The only negative, if you care, is that it can darken the metal, from gray to black depending on how long you soak it. I've posted may pictures before, so search if you're curious.
TxSteve
Well-known member
I spray my tools with Beoshield T9 after evaporust. Light coat and let it dry.
d.mcfarland
Well-known member
Literally any oil based product meant for rust prevention is going to work as intended.
bcschief
Well-known member
Fluid Film if you're not going to paint or coat them in any way.
seber
Well-known member
If the chrome is gone, chrome paint. If it is good, oil.
coldh2o
Well-known member
I wonder what the women do?
RTM
Well-known member
They don’t let their tools get rusty, and don’t buy rusty tools.
Houdini5150
Well-known member
3 in 1 oil; be mindful of where I store item
Wakefield
Well-known member
I assume that you have to remove every trace of that product from the metal after it has done its job ? Converted the rust to inactive "blueing" ?
fishwatcher
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jan 26, 2023
- Messages
- 751
I think Krud Kutter for Rust is supposed to not just stop rust, but treat it for the future. check and see if it fits your use case.
It’s not a pretty result though.. the metal will blacken or turn dark grey and white. If you polish that off.. I wonder if you’ve then removed the rust protection.
It’s not a pretty result though.. the metal will blacken or turn dark grey and white. If you polish that off.. I wonder if you’ve then removed the rust protection.
No, you can leave it on. Forever. If you want. Or sandblast it off. Just whatever finish you want. I've got bare metal parts sitting in my basement for 20 years that haven't rusted after treatment with it. Granted, my basement is somewhat climate controlled, but it's also not arizona dry.
Search for my posts on it, it gives anywhere from a gray to a black finish. I've been using it for decades and love it. It's the next best thing to a true hot phosphate finish, which I also do. The typical cold blue treatments are absolutely **** in comparison to Metal Prep. I have used evaporust, but don't care for it because items typically just rust again within a few days- in that same basement.
RedRambler
Active member
- Joined
- Apr 19, 2024
- Messages
- 34
Based on the thread topic, this might be the better audience, compared to my other post in the polishers haven thread.
I did a hammer for my dad last fathers day, polished the head. I saw the hammer over this weekend and he had not put any oil on it. Which lead to rust spots. I plan on repolishing it for him but in an effort to keep things from rusting, do any of you use a rust preventive coating, besides simply rubbing with oil? My initial research has lead me to Dry Coat as a solution, but it appears to only be available in 5 gallon buckets and up (which makes it a no go for me). I did find another option Rust Veto which is available in aerosol and up to 55 gallon drums. Curious if anybody has used one of these products or has a suggestion for another product or alternative to keep rust at bay for polished steel items.
I did a hammer for my dad last fathers day, polished the head. I saw the hammer over this weekend and he had not put any oil on it. Which lead to rust spots. I plan on repolishing it for him but in an effort to keep things from rusting, do any of you use a rust preventive coating, besides simply rubbing with oil? My initial research has lead me to Dry Coat as a solution, but it appears to only be available in 5 gallon buckets and up (which makes it a no go for me). I did find another option Rust Veto which is available in aerosol and up to 55 gallon drums. Curious if anybody has used one of these products or has a suggestion for another product or alternative to keep rust at bay for polished steel items.
It's hard if you wish to maintain a polished surface. I'd probably suggest wax - it doesn't have to be so thick that it makes things cloudy. Lee valley as special "tool wax" that isn't very expensive, but regular ole carnauba wax like you'd use on a car works well too.
I haven't tried the fancy modern ceramic finishes myself, but if it works on car paint, it would probably work on a polished tool. Those ceramic coatings are purported to be extremely robust.
RedRambler
Active member
- Joined
- Apr 19, 2024
- Messages
- 34
Thanks Jrad, good info. I did find the Lee Valley Tool Wax. I am sure you are correct and a ceramic coating would work also, like the one used on wheels. I will probably go the Carnauba route as that is much more readily available for myself.
Maui
Well-known member
After derusting and going down to bare metal using a variety of different techniques I will either paint, use Johnson's paste wax, or use 3-in-1 oil depending on the tool or part. For drill press columns and metal lathe surfaces I almost exclusively use 3-in-1 oil. I like it because it is a non-detergent SAE 20 oil that goes on easy, smells good, and keeps the rust at bay for months on end.
RedRambler
Active member
- Joined
- Apr 19, 2024
- Messages
- 34
I think that might be the ticket for a lot of items that I keep. The other aspect for example is the hammer for my dad, it will be out of sight out of mind regarding rust. That is why I thought something that could be sprayed on might offer the best results in that scenario. I will for sure get a bottle of 3 in 1 for my own tools. I tend to wipe all my tools clean after use, so doing so and applying some oil as needed is appealing to me. Below is one example of what I would try to protect, being polished might make it tough since it doesn’t have any texture for a spray to stick to. Wax might be my only option for this.
I've a tangential idea - how about you nickle coat it?I think that might be the ticket for a lot of items that I keep. The other aspect for example is the hammer for my dad, it will be out of sight out of mind regarding rust. That is why I thought something that could be sprayed on might offer the best results in that scenario. I will for sure get a bottle of 3 in 1 for my own tools. I tend to wipe all my tools clean after use, so doing so and applying some oil as needed is appealing to me. Below is one example of what I would try to protect, being polished might make it tough since it doesn’t have any texture for a spray to stick to. Wax might be my only option for this.
It's inexpensive and easy to diy. You can get some strips of nickle from Amazon and the only other substantial ingredient is a low voltage power source - like a wall wart.
Do you have a link to any specific info on how to do this?
RedRambler
Active member
- Joined
- Apr 19, 2024
- Messages
- 34
I am curious about this process as well. If the end result is a durable coating with a shine!!
Pretty easy to do...
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum...r-garage-today.126997/page-1552#post-10789254
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum...r-garage-today.126997/page-1552#post-10789254
velocipede
ALLIANCE MEMBER
You also might look at Renaissance Wax for a polished item that doesn't get much actual use. Pricey but worth it.
RedRambler
Active member
- Joined
- Apr 19, 2024
- Messages
- 34
Looks similar to anodizing at home, which I have not done, but seems pretty cool to me. Once the power supply is sourced, seems like you could nickel plate for cheap. Thanks for the video!!
seber
Well-known member
For power source, I use any USB type charger.
d42jeep
Well-known member
Another vote for Fluid Film. I use it on most tools after they come out of the evaporust. Kind of smelly but very effective.
-Don
-Don
RedRambler
Active member
- Joined
- Apr 19, 2024
- Messages
- 34
What is the finished feel of fluid film? Is it slippery as WD40 would be? I want to find something that is dry, but offers protection.
d42jeep
Well-known member
Buy a can and give it a try. It’s not all that expensive. If I don’t plan on using the tool soon, I leave a fairly thick coat on the tool. If I’m putting it to use in the near future I wipe the excess off with a paper towel.
-Don
-Don
four.cycle
Well-known member
^ Yes. The price of a can of "Fluid Film" is well worth the investment. If you don't like it on your tools, it will silence those shrieking garage door rollers.
RedRambler
Active member
- Joined
- Apr 19, 2024
- Messages
- 34
Haha. I like it. It looks like my local auto zone carries it so I will give it a try for sure.
four.cycle
Well-known member
^ Hey, I was actually going to call out for some bids for mine - they were just HOWLING. Couple shots of that goop and they're quiet now.
Silence is worth twice the price of a can of that stuff.
Silence is worth twice the price of a can of that stuff.
bwringer
Well-known member
Fluid Film is lanolin, an extremely thick, sticky, waxy grease.
Lanolin comes from wool (it's the skin secretions of sheep), so it also has a very strong and extremely unpleasant odor of unwashed sheep. Unless you find this arousing, Fluid Film is best used on stuff that stays outside well away from your house.
It is a very effective and tenacious corrosion preventative.
Fluid Film will attract dust, and as an animal grease, many have found that dogs absolutely love the stuff. If you spray it on your truck, check underneath for dogs licking the frame before you go anywhere.
RickyPetite
Well-known member
CRC Marine Corrosion Inhibitor. It's basically Cosmoline, used by the Navy on their deck guns. Ideally, you let it dry/cure to an amber finish (like varnish). I apply it, wait a few minutes and wipe it down. Probably lower its effectiveness but I can't notice a gummy finish. Never have a problem with rust ever since.
RedRambler
Active member
- Joined
- Apr 19, 2024
- Messages
- 34
Cosmoline is what rust veto had listed on the description. I will look into CRC. Does it leave a slippery feeling? In my mind varnish is quite grippy once dry.
bwringer
Well-known member
FWIW, Evapo-Rust makes a rust inhibitor called Rust-Block:
www.evapo-rust.com
Oil-free, water-soluble, not stinky. Could be a great choice for some situations.
Evapo-Rust® Is The Super Safe Rust Remover - Stop Rust Today!
Evapo-Rust® - Super Safe Rust Removal is our priority. Evapo-Rust® is safe on skin, biodegradable, and easy to use. Just soak, rinse, and reuse!
www.evapo-rust.com
Oil-free, water-soluble, not stinky. Could be a great choice for some situations.
Maui
Well-known member
CRC Marine Corrosion Inhibitor 10 oz Mfr# 06026 - Ace Hardware
A long term, flexible corrosion inhibitor that protects and preserves metal surfaces, electrical connections, engine components and fasteners, subject to salt spray and high humidity. Also provides effective protection for steering and throttle linkages. Application: Electrical connections...
www.acehardware.com