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trytochaseme

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616 in the Mitten
heres my billet uca so far

5juTPGv.png


playing around with a cantilever setup for the rear end

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got some goodies in for the front arms

HqSon9o.jpg
 
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trytochaseme

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got control am parts in

glvofIQ.jpg


uca in progress

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made a rip stick for it cuz why not

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gotta make bout 100 of these b gap tools for sram derailleurs

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making some chain rings for the current junior world champion road biker

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new bike ive been working on. not done yet, being close. ordering tubing his week.

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king nero

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What steel do you use for the sprocket, and do you heat treat it?
Why do you make this yourself, is it something that is not commercially available?
Interesting project!
 
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trytochaseme

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What steel do you use for the sprocket, and do you heat treat it?
Why do you make this yourself, is it something that is not commercially available?
Interesting project!

this test one is 6061 alu. final will be 7075. new model with limited options. what they wanted wasn't available
 
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trytochaseme

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pretty much done. tubing is ordered. sending out some parts for laser cutting aswell.

1wns0vc.png


it has quite a few special details I'll do a write up on when I'm at a keyboard and not on my tablet
 

king nero

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7075 is a PH alloy, so no heat treatment. There is some natural aging though.
Is't the resistance against wear too low for a sprocket? Does anodizing significantly improves the wear resistance for this strongly localized wear?
 

kazlx

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Pretty much all high end drive sprockets are made from 7075, no treatment. I think anodizing does help with the wear resistance, but they do just wear out. I typically replace at least the sprocket and the chain at the same time usually.

Interested to see how the bike goes. That's one on my bucket list. i really want to build a hardtail to start.
 
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trytochaseme

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Is that "box" near the bottom bracket the engine? lol!

gearbox! derailleurs are so 20th century

this will stay raw. larger chainrings have the force distributed more because of more teeth enagaged at once so they tend to last quite awhile still. rest will be laser cut then finised off in the mill.

still not done in cad yet but playing around with some renderings. tubing just came in today aswell

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this bike is gonna be quite different. decided not to worry about any current standards out there and just design what i would think would be best. obviously to sell it like that wouldn't work so well but if i end up selling them ill have different options to make it work with all your standard parts.

Starting off with the rear end because i dont need a cassette i decided to ditch the standard 12mm axle and go to a 20mm to match the front. also because i dont need a cassette and only a single ring out back i can have a wider spoke flange spacing so decided to narrow the rear end to 130mm from the current standard 142. gives me a little more clearance out back for tight spots but lets me maintain a wide spoke flange.

Ive been running very large rotors i designed this year and once issue is the pcd on rotors hasnt changed in decades. rotors have doubled in size since then so it would make sense to increase the bolt pattern as well to give some rigidity to the rotor. This plus the special rear end means i need custom hubs. not a problem. I designed hubs for this purpose. the plan is to machine aluminum flanges and bonded them to a carbon shell. already have the carbon tube just need to get the flanges machined now.

I designed this bike with a floating rear brake. what i didnt want was a big fugly arm sticking out so i hid it behind the chain stay to give it a sleek hidden look. Ill also be using a EightPins dropper post which requires a custom size seat tube and a fixing bolt on the bottom of the seat tube.

Will also use my tapered needle bearings ive been running but the diameter of this headtube is oversized so i can make custom cups to change the reach and head angle if i want to.

im sure im forgetting some more details
 
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BORING HOP YARD

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Cool looking model, This the first I have heard of the gearbox, I've been of my bike far too long. I was wondering if you have ridden a bike with a gearbox?
How well does it work when your on a steep hill and need to grab a lower gear and you have pressure on the chain to keep going up the hill? I also checked out the P-line Pinion site, is that the gearbox your going to use?. Always thought there had to be a better way. Cant wait to see you build it.
Greg
 
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trytochaseme

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Cool looking model, This the first I have heard of the gearbox, I've been of my bike far too long. I was wondering if you have ridden a bike with a gearbox?
How well does it work when your on a steep hill and need to grab a lower gear and you have pressure on the chain to keep going up the hill? I also checked out the P-line Pinion site, is that the gearbox your going to use?. Always thought there had to be a better way. Cant wait to see you build it.
Greg

thanks! my current bike uses a pinion and it is the shiznit.

i dont plan on going back to a derailleur bike again. shifting is a little weird at first but you quickly get use to it. you get in the habit of shifting when your feet are at 12 and 6, when least torque is on the system and you kinda of pause for a half second to shift. it becomes second nature and you dont loose any time or rhythm to do it

p5pb17640430.jpg
 

Pressingonward

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Love the bike project. What gear range do you get out of the gearbox? How much suspension travel will it have? I'm sure you've checked it but it looks like the rear tire will get really close to the seat tube if you have much more than 4" of travel, but with the USD fork up front I'd expect you were going for more like 6+"
 
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trytochaseme

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thanks guys. in the pics above it had 170mm of travel front and back but i decided to reduce it to 130mm and go back to my reaper frame which had 170mm. redesigned that completely as well. heres all different models rendered up. have some tubing in. once i get some current jobs finished up i can get onto machining parts for these

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as for the gearbox it has a 600% range so its pretty awesome
 
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trytochaseme

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been rocking out on these Sram B gap tools

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sold some of these rim and rotor wrenches. waiting for them to come back from laser cut
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also getting some cone wrenchs made out of few different materials to test strength. they have been beefed up alot more then in this pic

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working on a new computer for home and eventually for when i get my own shop going

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last but not least have a pretty awesome opportunity to make some parts for a frame builder for NAHBS end of this month. cant give any details but heres a quick shot. looks like a regular crank but its something pretty wild.

cRnBxMa.png
 

GrundleJuice

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Square taper crank?

Don't see much of those around the mountain bike world anymore.

Building a fatbike frame is my goal for next winter.

Edit: just went through this thread from the start. Great skills! Didn't expect to see another bike guy in this forum, let alone two! Good stuff, look forward to more!
 
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trytochaseme

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fixed it!

yes i do make my own rotors. well i design them and then hav e them lasered out. i have a floating design that i am going to try out this summer
 

Bigblue&Goldie

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fixed it!

yes i do make my own rotors. well i design them and then hav e them lasered out. i have a floating design that i am going to try out this summer

Do you have to grind them after they're laser cut, or are they flat enough as is? You mind sharing what material/gauge you use?
 
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trytochaseme

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Thanks!

made some final tweaks to this frame.

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tubing is rough cut and just machined this little logo into the head tube

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Brace for the gearbox is machined. its basically just a new front triangle for my current bike. Its longer, lower, and slacker and is a 29er. the billet rear end will swap over. getting filler rod ordered and want to try to get it welded by the end of the month hopefully. fingers crossed
 
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trytochaseme

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hey guys long time no post. alot has happened. havent actually made any progress really on any of my other projects just started alot more! haha

i bought another VW little over a month ago. it looked like this at the time

bMHsPz7.jpg


exterior hasnt got alot of work but heres where its at now

eW7BBLi.jpg


New wheels, picked up a oem golf r bumper from my buddy. Waiting for his new grills to come in to pick up his old ones. also have some oem xenon headlights to go on it soon.

interior is where its been getting alot of love. dont really have any before pics but first thing i did was swap in some CC seats as they are so much more comfortable and look really good. Then i died them brown. pics dont do the color justice. looks kinda meh in pics but in person the color rocks

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the most wild part is something i did on a whim this weekend. Ive been wanting to start working with carbon fiber and learning to make some sweet stuff with it. I was pulling all my interior plastics to dye then all black this weekend and as i was pulling the dash i thought it would be cool to wrap it in carbon. This would be just for looks as obviously not gonna save any weight or add strength as its an overlay. Mainly just to get practice on working with carbon and something cool you dont see often.

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the passenger side came out pretty good. dirvers side has alot more issues but im still working on it trying to get in better. Im gonna pick up another dash and do it again but with a vacuum bag.

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overall pretty stoked for my first time ever working with carbon. Ive got bit by the carbon bug now. Gonna get a few more yards of carbon ordered and more epoxy resin and start doing some body panels
 

RADcustom

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The dash looks great. Did you sand it after it hardened to get it smooth? How difficult was it to cut out for the air vents and defrost?
 
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trytochaseme

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thanks man. yea lots of sanding. need to go back and wet sand with higher grit to get out some scratches and need to sand a good portion of the driver side more. once it was in the car i could see alot of spots i missed. Cutting out for vents was rough. it did not want to hold its shape on the sharp corners like that so thats why i wanna do another one and use a vacuum bag so that way it can hold those shapes much better
 

Pressingonward

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I really hate the whole "stance" thing, but I like the changes you've made so far. Those seats look classy. Good job on the dash, that looks like a ton of work but it's definitely a unique feature for the car.

New wheels look pretty cool, what are they?
 
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trytochaseme

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I really hate the whole "stance" thing, but I like the changes you've made so far. Those seats look classy. Good job on the dash, that looks like a ton of work but it's definitely a unique feature for the car.

New wheels look pretty cool, what are they?

i dont blame you man. i dont get all the camber and stuff. i was into that when i was younger but now i wanna drive my cars and have fun. the guy i bought this from was big into the stance so i have alot of camber in the back still. Trying to figure out a plan to widen the fenders a little bit so i can get rid of the camber and run bigger tires. I do love air suspension tho, the ones on the car currently are pretty crappy but i have some nice coilovers im going to convert to bags and put on and they will handle much better and let me put a front sway bar back on.
 

Pressingonward

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Sounds like a good plan. I've never messed with air ride, but I've always kind of wanted a car with adjustable ride height/firmness, which air gives you. My ideal suspension would be a coilover with remote adjustable dampening, plus about 2" of air adjustment on top of the coil spring, so you could air up for more ride height and softer ride, or air down and have a good performance setup for the twisties.
 
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trytochaseme

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Kinda shifted direction with my car. its no longer on air ride. Its on some BC racing Br series coilovers. They handle so much better. I also thru on a hotchkis front sway bar and a H&R rear sway bar. car handles 1000x times better. Having a riot with it.

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Swapped my buckets into it

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Slowly designing all custom suspension for my other VW track build. Its gonna be awhile before i have time to get any of it made but that gives me alot of time to get it designed and sorted perfectly.

Its a tubed subframe for a AWD swap. Little lighter but much stiffer. Not a single bushing, all oversized spherical bearings. UCA location has been moved to improve roll center and increase camber gain. All nuts have capture plates and there are tie offs to use safety wire on the bolts. I really dont have a need for any of this i just have as much fun making this stuff as actually using them. all the arms and spindles are completely custom. Porsche boxster S rear calipers which i have in person too so that helps with designing brackets

This model still has along ways to go. Needs alot added and alot changed

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Pressingonward

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Nice looking rendering...I miss being able to do that so easily in Solidworks. We use Creo Elements/Express which is a totally different animal.

Not sure what the stock suspension looks like that you're modifying for your design, but that U shaped upper control arm makes me nervous - It's going to want to fold and will need to be quite robust to avoid flex and eventual fatigue cracking, which could have a really ugly result on a track car being driven at the limits...
 

Bodj Built

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Nice looking rendering...I miss being able to do that so easily in Solidworks. We use Creo Elements/Express which is a totally different animal.

Not sure what the stock suspension looks like that you're modifying for your design, but that U shaped upper control arm makes me nervous - It's going to want to fold and will need to be quite robust to avoid flex and eventual fatigue cracking, which could have a really ugly result on a track car being driven at the limits...



Upper control arms don’t see nearly the same amount of forces as lower control arms. Should be alright


Sent from my iPhone using The Garage Journal mobile app
 

Kevin54

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7075 is a PH alloy, so no heat treatment. There is some natural aging though.
Is't the resistance against wear too low for a sprocket? Does anodizing significantly improves the wear resistance for this strongly localized wear?

You can anodize which is basically a die and serves no purpose but aesthetics. But there is a hard anodize that significantly reduces wear. We used to make aircraft products and had them hard anodized.

Here's an article that explains it a little.... http://www.delsplating.com/hard-anodizing.html
 
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