Craftsman Drill Press
- Thread starter FrankLee
- Start date
lafester
Well-known member
Can't argue with that... the table must have been damaged when these were still available from Sears. Since there is no evidence of tipping I suppose a head crash could have been the cause.
It is strange that if the dark grey was only 2 years why the bronze is harder to find.
It is strange that if the dark grey was only 2 years why the bronze is harder to find.
Re: Table Lift, DP#15
Thank you Frank! My drafting skills are very rusty (had a class in middle school in 1985,) so pardon the crude drawings. I've also been playing around in CAD and mocked up the lower collar. If you can help me get dimensions for the call outs on the reference drawings I'm attaching, it would go a long way in helping me drafting up the 3d models. I'll happily make the 3d models available once complete to the forum for those interested in having them. It's too bad I didn't catch forum member Hoorn before his rebuild. I may have enticed him to see if he would've let me have his parts molded as originals for reproduction castings. I may reach out to him as well to see if he'd let me come by and look at his lift as he's about a 30 minute drive away.
Best Regards and look forward to hearing back. If it's too much work to pull the dimensions, please don't feel obligated as I know this can be tedious.
-Jesse
Corona
Thank you Frank! My drafting skills are very rusty (had a class in middle school in 1985,) so pardon the crude drawings. I've also been playing around in CAD and mocked up the lower collar. If you can help me get dimensions for the call outs on the reference drawings I'm attaching, it would go a long way in helping me drafting up the 3d models. I'll happily make the 3d models available once complete to the forum for those interested in having them. It's too bad I didn't catch forum member Hoorn before his rebuild. I may have enticed him to see if he would've let me have his parts molded as originals for reproduction castings. I may reach out to him as well to see if he'd let me come by and look at his lift as he's about a 30 minute drive away.
Best Regards and look forward to hearing back. If it's too much work to pull the dimensions, please don't feel obligated as I know this can be tedious.
-Jesse
Corona
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Hoorn
Well-known member
Pardon the make-shift work area, still setting up shop but needed to knock out a few projects this weekend, but figured I would show the old beater off. Snagged it a couple weeks ago - they were asking $35 but haggled them down to $20 since "it's so old and probably not working very well these days." Didn't even have to clean it!
That DP has been SO well maintained. Did the Palmgren come with it? And that's an early 100 too, great score.
lafester
Well-known member
Table is a 113. I was going to flip this one but now I think she will be parted out. Everything on it looks barely used.
PDX
Well-known member
Yes! That is a gorgeous machine! The previous owner took very good care with it.
Hahaha..
Thanks again, very happy to have it!
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PDX
Well-known member
It's actually Frank's #98 (the post is pretty much entirely ficticious, dripping with jealousy of people who do actually run in to deals like that). Doesn't seem to have had too terribly hard of a life before he got it though.
Vise was worked in along with it - didn't see any manufacturer's markings on it other than country of origin; is this for sure a Palmgren?
It is a Craftsman branded vise perhaps manufactured by Palmgren. The Craftsman label was gone when I got it with DP#31. However, there is casting number 2754 on the base under the pivot pin. That is the Sears catalog number from the 1969 catalog and others.
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=6609861
PDX
Well-known member
y'sguy
Well-known member
Re: Table Lift, DP#15
This looks like you are on the right path! I would be interested in one of these for my setup if it can be done affordably. I have wondered if a sears table saw from near the era might be salvaged for the trunion rods and mechanisms to add to building some kind of a table lift. So far I only have my own saw for reference and haven't been able to look into it as yet.
This looks like you are on the right path! I would be interested in one of these for my setup if it can be done affordably. I have wondered if a sears table saw from near the era might be salvaged for the trunion rods and mechanisms to add to building some kind of a table lift. So far I only have my own saw for reference and haven't been able to look into it as yet.
Re: Table Lift, DP#15
I've also thought of a few workarounds (everything from cannibalizing a drill press table to using a leadscrew from a metal lathe.)
I'll certainly keep the forum up to date on progress.
-Jesse
I've also thought of a few workarounds (everything from cannibalizing a drill press table to using a leadscrew from a metal lathe.)
I'll certainly keep the forum up to date on progress.
-Jesse
y'sguy
Well-known member
Re: Table Lift, DP#15
Actually Frank, I should use your method of a counter balance system and call it good. I'm only trying too hard to keep it in the original equipment category and that is not really necessary for me for the cost.
Your solution will work for me, I just need to get on with it. Funny, in the past I used to sash weights around in my stash but alas no more. I'll come up with something for a ghetto counterweight!
Actually Frank, I should use your method of a counter balance system and call it good. I'm only trying too hard to keep it in the original equipment category and that is not really necessary for me for the cost.
Your solution will work for me, I just need to get on with it. Funny, in the past I used to sash weights around in my stash but alas no more. I'll come up with something for a ghetto counterweight!
Outlawmws
Well-known member
the RAS lift mechanism I kept for a long time simply didn't have enough lift for ANY project I thought of. It was from a typical 10" Craftsman (the recall models)
y'sguy
Well-known member
Are you guys using RAS as in Radial Arm Saw? or something I am missing? When I spoke of a salvage saw to use I intended to mean Table Saw. Not that it matters too much. Just wanted try to keep up with you whippersnappers and your lingo! haha
Please continue.
Please continue.
y'sguy
Well-known member
^^^ Ha, Yep. I have witnessed this!
Outlawmws
Well-known member
Now thinking about the RAS lift gears, if you lost most of the post, and were able to get a longer screw movement..
Not sure what Gearing advantage is built in those, but if its lifting a RAS, head it should be enough. you would have to do some fabrication for mounting, and coupling in a collar to lift the table. Hmm, I think that piece has been gone some years now...
Not sure what Gearing advantage is built in those, but if its lifting a RAS, head it should be enough. you would have to do some fabrication for mounting, and coupling in a collar to lift the table. Hmm, I think that piece has been gone some years now...
row.inc
Member
11b30b4 I'm glad the spring works for you. Any tips on how you modified and installed the spring?
row.inc, I have been failing at doing anything other than vises currently. I have never gotten around to playing with the spring but I will try to get some time with it this weekend. I will post what I learn once I get some time with it.
Frank
I just checked the link to Metro Restyling for machine turned vinyl. The link is dead. I did a search of their site to no result as well. Either they no longer have or carry the product or...
Anyway, have you or anyone that follows this thread found a suitable alternative? Or, am I on my own winging it with whatever I find that looks good on the web?
I just checked the link to Metro Restyling for machine turned vinyl. The link is dead. I did a search of their site to no result as well. Either they no longer have or carry the product or...
Anyway, have you or anyone that follows this thread found a suitable alternative? Or, am I on my own winging it with whatever I find that looks good on the web?
Hmmm. Yeah, their website has changed. They are only a few miles from me, so I'll check them out next week.
Here's a seller on ebay that looks reasonably priced.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/303588272802
Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press
Earlier, I thought a mending plate might work well, but after looking at a couple of my castings, the two halves of the head casting are rarely even with each other. One side is usually higher than the other. I think a plate attached to the column cross member could possibly twist and prevent the crack from drawing together.
Here's what I came up with... a piece of 1/4-20 threaded rod and two nuts. I drilled 3/8" from the rear plane and 1-1/8" from the bottom plane. A 5/16" threaded rod would also work.
It's not an elegant solution, but it should be effective.
I saw another issue with a cracked head casting on owwm, so I thought I'd study this a bit more.
Earlier, I thought a mending plate might work well, but after looking at a couple of my castings, the two halves of the head casting are rarely even with each other. One side is usually higher than the other. I think a plate attached to the column cross member could possibly twist and prevent the crack from drawing together.
Here's what I came up with... a piece of 1/4-20 threaded rod and two nuts. I drilled 3/8" from the rear plane and 1-1/8" from the bottom plane. A 5/16" threaded rod would also work.
It's not an elegant solution, but it should be effective.
sheltonfilms
Well-known member
- Joined
- May 28, 2014
- Messages
- 157
Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press
Hmmmmm. If you didn’t like the nuts sticking out, I’m wondering how a turnbuckle inside would do with the rod ends of the turnbuckle threaded into tapped holes in the head casing. Then they could be put flush in the hole.
One con is one hole would have to be reverse threaded.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I saw another issue with a cracked head casting on owwm, so I thought I'd study this a bit more.
Earlier, I thought a mending plate might work well, but after looking at a couple of my castings, the two halves of the head casting are rarely even with each other. One side is usually higher than the other. I think a plate attached to the column cross member could possibly twist and prevent the crack from drawing together.
Here's what I came up with... a piece of 1/4-20 threaded rod and two nuts. I drilled 3/8" from the rear plane and 1-1/8" from the bottom plane. A 5/16" threaded rod would also work.
It's not an elegant solution, but it should be effective.
Hmmmmm. If you didn’t like the nuts sticking out, I’m wondering how a turnbuckle inside would do with the rod ends of the turnbuckle threaded into tapped holes in the head casing. Then they could be put flush in the hole.
One con is one hole would have to be reverse threaded.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Outlawmws
Well-known member
Or a threaded sleeve and counter sunk machine screws on the outside.
JoCoSawdust
Well-known member
I'm throwing out a life line....
I just started refurbishing an early Craftsman 100 DP. This thread, along with 11B's separate thread is infinitely helpful, thanks to all who contribute to them.
The motor is dated 1947 and has this contraption on it. It looks to me like some kind of harmonic balancer but I'm just guessing. My issue is how to get the damned thing off the motor shaft. There's two holes that look like set screw holes. One is threaded, the other isn't and there's nothing in either hole. The threaded hole is high on the system, much to far away from the shaft to reach it anyhow.
The only thing I've gotten to move so far is the device shown being pulled out. It's spring loaded. Let go and it snaps back against the hub.
Wether I reinstall this thing on the motor later on or not, I'd prefer not damaging this oddball in removing it. Any insight would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Scott
I just started refurbishing an early Craftsman 100 DP. This thread, along with 11B's separate thread is infinitely helpful, thanks to all who contribute to them.
The motor is dated 1947 and has this contraption on it. It looks to me like some kind of harmonic balancer but I'm just guessing. My issue is how to get the damned thing off the motor shaft. There's two holes that look like set screw holes. One is threaded, the other isn't and there's nothing in either hole. The threaded hole is high on the system, much to far away from the shaft to reach it anyhow.
The only thing I've gotten to move so far is the device shown being pulled out. It's spring loaded. Let go and it snaps back against the hub.
Wether I reinstall this thing on the motor later on or not, I'd prefer not damaging this oddball in removing it. Any insight would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Scott
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454ragtop
Well-known member
JoCo, I suspect that is a planetary speed reducer. With that spring loaded key in one position it turns at normal motor driven speed, flip it to the other position, it engages a set of planetary gears to slow it down. I have something similar stashed in a drawer here somewhere.
JoCoSawdust
Well-known member
I found the words "The Pull Gear Company" on it and did some digging. VM has a publication on the device which is designed to reduce the speed of small drill presses. Glad I did crack this thing open as it's full of gears. I'll read the catalog tonight and see if I can go to bed smarter than I woke up.
I've hunted for a set screw with no luck. Hopefully the catalog can give me a clue. Interesting piece.
I've hunted for a set screw with no luck. Hopefully the catalog can give me a clue. Interesting piece.
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Outlawmws
Well-known member
Good possibility 454 I was thinking possibly a centrifugal clutch kicks in when up close to speed so its not bogged down trying to pull a heavy weight
JoCoSawdust
Well-known member
Right you are 454, thanks. It does install with a set screw I'll keep reading and figure this thing out. I see where the set screw goes but there isn't anything threaded in there and the device won't budge. This particular model supposedly produces a 7:1 speed reduction.
Outlaw. Seems you can set that spring loaded key in one position and operated at normal speed, with the key pulled out and rotated 90 degrees, the reduction kicks in.
Link to the manual:
http://www.vintagemachinery.org/pubs/10489/15139.pdf
Outlaw. Seems you can set that spring loaded key in one position and operated at normal speed, with the key pulled out and rotated 90 degrees, the reduction kicks in.
Link to the manual:
http://www.vintagemachinery.org/pubs/10489/15139.pdf
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Indexmill
Well-known member
That reducer really is cool as nails. If you don't want it, I would love to have it.
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JoCoSawdust
Well-known member
Victory is mine. After becoming 100 percent certain there was no set screw holding it on, I used every chuck wedge I own to get it as far off the motor shaft as I could then resorted to a wooden dowel and light taps with a dead blow. The manual states that it had a 3/4" mounting bore, thus requiring a reducer for smaller shafts. Turns out there was a bearing placed in the mounting bore and the device was then pressed on. Anyhow..it's off.
I did try the sucker out on the bench before going to battle with it. The top hub has a threaded hole in it. For speed reduction, you pull out that spring loaded device and rotate it 90 degrees. A rod is threaded into the upper hub then braced against the column of the DP. It actually works albeit noisy as hell, probably from not being oiled for a few decades. I only ran it for a few seconds.
The motor had a bit of vibration in it with this mounted. I chalked it up to bearings which I already planned on replacing. Once this thing was removed, the motor runs smooth as butter.
Indexmill, other than not putting this thing back on this motor, I'm not really sure what I'll do with it. Let me get through the refurb on this machine as it's a very, very late birthday present and I'll make a decision. Where about are you? I'm between Four Oaks and Benson.
Frank...sorry for cluttering up your thread with this but this is where all the cool Craftsman DP guys hang out.
Thanks for the input gents.
I did try the sucker out on the bench before going to battle with it. The top hub has a threaded hole in it. For speed reduction, you pull out that spring loaded device and rotate it 90 degrees. A rod is threaded into the upper hub then braced against the column of the DP. It actually works albeit noisy as hell, probably from not being oiled for a few decades. I only ran it for a few seconds.
The motor had a bit of vibration in it with this mounted. I chalked it up to bearings which I already planned on replacing. Once this thing was removed, the motor runs smooth as butter.
Indexmill, other than not putting this thing back on this motor, I'm not really sure what I'll do with it. Let me get through the refurb on this machine as it's a very, very late birthday present and I'll make a decision. Where about are you? I'm between Four Oaks and Benson.
Frank...sorry for cluttering up your thread with this but this is where all the cool Craftsman DP guys hang out.
Thanks for the input gents.
JoCoSawdust, welcome to the DP family and like everyone else has already said, that planetary speed reducer is really cool.
So are we going to get pics of the 100? or did I miss them already?
Also, thanks for the nod to my thread. I am glad some of the stuff I post was helpful.
BTF
So are we going to get pics of the 100? or did I miss them already?
Also, thanks for the nod to my thread. I am glad some of the stuff I post was helpful.
BTF
JoCoSawdust
Well-known member
Thanks Frank and 11B.
As far as joining the DP family, let's say I'm party crashing at a cousin's house. I've got 15 DPs in my collection (so far), all pre-war Sears pieces made by Atlas, Walker Turner or Central Specialties. My daily user is a Crown 150 with Vari-Slo that was well cared for by the original owner. It was plug and play when I got it home so this 100 is my first incursion into refurbishing a post war machine. I'm trying really hard not to let my "get one of every variant from period X" spill over into the post-war era as I'd have to build a bigger shop!
Here's the only photo of the 100 so far. I'm horrible about documenting my builds. I get focused and never want to stop to take pictures. I sure do enjoy and appreciate the guys that do though. I always tackle the columns first since that's the only aspect of these things that I hate. The column on this one cleaned up well and will do justice to the machine. I stole Frank's angle iron/carriage bolt bearing puller idea yesterday to pull the top bearing off the pulley. Apparently I was lucky with this machine as I didn't run into any of the issues of disassembly that some other have. The machine came apart like it was assembled yesterday. These threads were crucial to me knowing how to do it without botching something up.
I'm rambling and need to get to the task at hand. There probably won't be any in-progress pics of this thing (unless I hit a wall) but I'll be sure to post the final result.
Thanks again gents.
As far as joining the DP family, let's say I'm party crashing at a cousin's house. I've got 15 DPs in my collection (so far), all pre-war Sears pieces made by Atlas, Walker Turner or Central Specialties. My daily user is a Crown 150 with Vari-Slo that was well cared for by the original owner. It was plug and play when I got it home so this 100 is my first incursion into refurbishing a post war machine. I'm trying really hard not to let my "get one of every variant from period X" spill over into the post-war era as I'd have to build a bigger shop!
Here's the only photo of the 100 so far. I'm horrible about documenting my builds. I get focused and never want to stop to take pictures. I sure do enjoy and appreciate the guys that do though. I always tackle the columns first since that's the only aspect of these things that I hate. The column on this one cleaned up well and will do justice to the machine. I stole Frank's angle iron/carriage bolt bearing puller idea yesterday to pull the top bearing off the pulley. Apparently I was lucky with this machine as I didn't run into any of the issues of disassembly that some other have. The machine came apart like it was assembled yesterday. These threads were crucial to me knowing how to do it without botching something up.
I'm rambling and need to get to the task at hand. There probably won't be any in-progress pics of this thing (unless I hit a wall) but I'll be sure to post the final result.
Thanks again gents.
