Above 1200 Sq/FT DFB's Garage

[D.F.B]

the audio rabbit hole is deeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeepppppppppp and costly, when people start talking about spending £ks on mains power cables it gets really worrying

I stumbled across some ludicrously expensive cables during my research, I guess there is a market for that, but even I have a limit to how much money I want to incinerate in the name of pursuing an obsession.

I have looked long and hard at those SVS subs over the years. When I finally build a setup I will be going with one of their options.

Agree the audio 'rabbit hole' is very deep. I have yet to move into the speaker category but the amount I have spent on headphones and headphone amps over the years is more than I care to share and I feel like I only have scratched the surface.

Moving into building a solid listening setup or two somewhat scares me.

There is so much choice out there, hence why I gravitated towards already vetted products. The other choice was Dynaudio subs, but they are like twice the price!

 

[D.F.B]

Something that I have had done a few times now, but never done by me, replacing the drive gears and pawls on my beloved Rover ProCut 560.

These are a wear item that need to be maintained, either by periodic cleaning and lubrication or via total replacement. The symptoms that something is not right include one wheel driving rather than two, excessive noise and the wheels locking up in forward or reverse. All present on my unit.

With nearly all Rover spare parts gone for the ProCut models, I was lucky to score two sets of cogs and pawls from an online retailer. Mine arrived loose rather than in the Rover packaging.

https://powermowers.com.au/products...370-1k-procut-50?_pos=17&_sid=c132d6cb6&_ss=r



The process for replacement is not all that hard, especially after you watch a video of someone else doing it, apparently in in under 3 minutes...............

I say "apparently" because I broke the tiny circlip that retains the cog assembly on the driveshaft. I should say, it came off easy enough, but putting it back on without the correct tool meant I snapped the 10 year old circlip. A trip down to the local bearing store had me sorted in no time, along with the CORRECT circlip pliers to get the job done properly.





Anyway, first you must remove the hub cap, then remove the press fit wheel retaining washer. The wheel then slides away from the axle.



You then remove that ****** circlip, slide the washer, cog and pawl away from the driveshaft. Each side has it's own cog, with L or R stamped on the reverse side.



After cleaning each component, in particular the groves on the wheel, I put a small amount of marine grade grease on the axle and driveshaft. The cog then slides back on, the pawl inserted in the driveshaft slot, washer and circlip reinstalled.

Before sliding the wheel back in place and securing with a new press fit washer, I applied graphite powder to the wheel and cog. You aren't supposed to use a liquid lubricant on these, over time the oil mixes with dust and debris and thus turns into liquid sandpaper. The graphite is the dry substitute.



Only the left-hand side was not driving, which is no wonder considering how much grass and dirt was in there, but I also replaced the right-hand side parts too.

With both sides done, a quick test revealed a successful result, no more single pegger! An oil change, and the Rover is back in action.

But, I have a problem. After 10 years of hard use, the pressed steel cover that limits the amount of debris entering the wheel assembly has worn through and is letting dust and grass to enter the drive cogs and wheel.



And of course, the part is NLA in Australia. I have found it in the UK as a POA part. Now waiting to see if I can get two replacements. Naturally, these parts don't affect the operation of the drive system, but they do prolong the working life of the parts in question.

https://www.powertoolspares.com/rover/pro-cut-560.m/rov00030/spares



Here's hoping I get lucky and score another set of covers. It does mean removing the wheel and drive cogs again though.

 

[D.F.B]

Wash day for both the Jaguar and Ranger.

The Ranger was first, and finally following up with my intention of doing an engine bay clean. I had a few people ask me how to do this, so here goes.........

You probably don't need to, but where possible I like to cover the battery, fuse box and alternator with a plastic bag. I find a saturated towel helps weigh down the bag and prevent it from being blasted off with the pressure washer.



My engine bay was not terrible, but I needed the assistance of running water and chemical to get into places a towel and detail spray couldn't access. After an initial rinse, I applied APC to the whole engine bay. If the underside of the hood is dirty, apply it here too.







Then with a couple of different brushes, scrub and agitate wherever you can reach.





After that, rinse thoroughly. The main thing to be mindful of with this is to keep the nozzle or hose moving. After the rinse, I liberally applied Meguiar's Hyper Dressing at 5:1. I have access to an undiluted bottle of Hyper Dressing, but if you have the RTU bottle, you will need to dilute that further as the 1:1 ratio is too rich for this job.





At this point, you can close the hood and walk away. In my case, I hit the engine bay with my blower to further distribute the Hyper Dressing and speed up the drying. However, because Hyper Dressing is self-leveling, this step is not always required. I should also point out that you want to do this process BEFORE washing the rest of the car, you will manage to get some APC and dressing residue onto the surrounding paint, which the wash will sort out.

After that, the wheels and tyres were cleaned with Brake Buster, the paint with the delightful Opti-Coat M-Wash, the drying aid a throw back to my past, Meguiar's Last Touch. Interior was vacuumed and given a wipe down with KCx ASC, tyres dressed with NV Onyx..........still love that stuff.

With the Jaguar sitting in storage uncovered for a while now, it swapped places with the XR6 and was in desperate need for a wash. In this case, the wheels and tyres again sorted with Brake Buster, the exterior washed with the Halloween Edition of NV Snow..........which is exactly the same as the normal version in every way, including scent. Drying aid here was P&S Paint Gloss, tyres dressed with Angelwax Elixir.

During the drying process, I noticed the front number plate protector was shattered. I had a replacement in stock, so got it swapped out, in the process ridding the car of the dealer propaganda version. What I initially thought was a rock strike, removal revealed that the plate was dinted underneath, so I suspect someone nudged into it while parked down town.

 

[D.F.B]

After hours of trawling, I'm not sure what to do with these. The only vendor listing these for "possible" sale advised me they are NLA, and I bet they won't even bother changing the part listing to reflect that.



I have also sent emails to a couple of places selling used parts, but of course, no one has responded. How, in this day and age, can a business attempting to sell products NOT answer emails despite advertising an email address or having an enquiry portal on their own website. I just don't get it. I guess I could call, but frankly, I can type my question quicker and with more clarity than playing that game. It's not 1985 anymore!

Anyway, I'm wondering if I can hammer them back as best I can and use some sort of filler or have them brazed. Or keep an eye out for a donor unit to steal parts from.

 

[Geoff289]

I went the donor unit path with a mower problem.

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum...lbourne-australia.383366/page-18#post-9874580

 

[D.F.B]

I went the donor unit path with a mower problem.

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum...lbourne-australia.383366/page-18#post-9874580

Yeah, I'm now going to keep my eyes open for one donor machine. They were really only used by contractors, so most of them have worked and died from a hard life.

Thankfully, I have found a pair today.

 

[D.F.B]

Holiday Project 1 – Project Outback

Yes, its that time of the year again, my annual staycation! Now, it's questionable if this project constitutes being on holidays, but trust me, it's a long and political story, let's leave it at that.

This Subaru Outback with just over 30,000 km (19,000 miles) on the clock arrived today for the DFB treatment. Finished in Twilight Blue, this is the third flat-6 Outback for the new owners. The goal was to hit the reset button and get it protected.

Sadly, Subaru no longer make this engine, which was replaced with the characterless 2.4-liter turbocharged flat-4 at the last update. Unlike the previous flat-6 Outback's, which were teamed with 5-speed automatic transmission, the last 3.6 engines were paired with a CVT. I didn't get a chance to drive this car, but it sounded suitably throaty with a few revs.







The car presented well initially, but certainly had some love marks and dings owing to it being an ex-federal police vehicle. It was an early 7.30 am start and there was a lot to do.

Engine Bay Detail –

Having taken delivery last week, the engine bay was not at all bad, even so I decided to give it a quick once over.



My usual process, liberal amounts of APC teamed with some EZ-Detail brushes, a rinse and the application of a dressing. Today, I chose KCx Motorplast. I've tried to like this stuff, but it smells weird and simply doesn't produce the same look that Megs Hyper Dressing achieves.







Wheels and Tyres -

Thankfully, these wheels cleaned up very nicely with minimal working. Today, I started by pretreating the wheels with NV Purge, I then scrubbed the tyres and arches with Shine Supply Wise Guy. After a rinse, I reapplied both chemicals, re-scrubbed the tyres and contact washed the wheels. An application of Gyeon Wet Coat and the wheels were done.



Dare say the tyres have never been cleaned...........



Washing and Decontamination -

Having done this numerous times now, I have an effective process in place to get the paint squeaky clean and ready for polishing and coating.

1. Iron remover application, to dry paint and allowed to dwell for as long as possible.



2. Foamed with Carpro Lift.







3. Thorough rinse.

4. Foamed with Carpro Descale, contact wash.

5. Rinse.

6. Paint inspection, contamination still felt, clay treatment followed using a clay mitt and Megs Final Inspection (using an iK sprayer is the way to apply clay lube, you will blow through lots of product but is vastly more effective).



7. Rinse.

8. Dry the car.

Prep and Polishing -

With the car clean, it was then inspected for condition. During the wash, it became clear this car would definitely need to be polished prior to coating. The hood was the worst, clearly washed with a pay-n-spray brush, and there were numerous random scratches to varying severity.

In this case, I initially trialed Carpro Reflect on a blue Shine Mate pad and was left wanting. Considering this is Japanese paint, I thought maybe that would be enough. I then switched to Rupes DA Fine and the yellow Shine Mate pad and while better, I needed more. I then tried the Rupes yellow wool, teamed with the same DA Fine and that became the winning combination. That pad is my new favorite by the way! For this car, I used the 3- and 5-inch Shine Mate machines, the iBrid Nano the support act.





After finishing the paint, I then went over the chrome nudge bar with Mother's metal polish.

While I successfully chased a couple of deeper scratches, some were through the clear. Sometimes you need to know when to call it good, and considering the gloss and level of correction I achieved, I'm happy with the result.

After polishing, I attended to some polish staining on the roof rails and black trim, likely inflicted by the dealer in preparation for sale. For this, I used a small nylon brush and the now discontinued Meguiar's M39.

After a generous wipe down with Carpro Eraser, I followed up with a final wipe using Rupes Reveal Strong, which is extremely effective for this final moment before coating. Just don't apply Reveal Strong to the paint directly, it's too potent for that.

Paint and Glass Protection –

Once again, I'm using Gyeon Can Coat EVO, and a fresh bottle no less. The paint and lights were treated with Can Coat, as was the sunroof and roof rails. While I know Can Coat works well on black plastic, I have moved away from ceramic coating those surfaces. Instead, they were treated, along with the rest of the paint, with Gyeon Cure. With rain due tomorrow, the Gyeon Cure helps protect the coating in its first 12 hours from moisture, along with a variety of contaminants as the coating fully cures in the following 14-days.

While Can Coat works on glass too, I really like Gyeon Quick View for that role.



Interior Cleaning and Protection –

The interior was in excellent shape and only required a quick vacuum, a wipe down with Carpro InnerQD and glass cleaned. While the leather looked fine, it was oily to the touch, so it was cleaned with KCx Pol Star and then treated with NV Nourish. A few spritzes with Angelwax Bliss and the interior was done.

Finishing Touches –

The last steps in a detail like this are about quality control and the finishing touches. The tyres were treated with Carpro Perl, the engine bay given a final wipe over, the door jambs touched up. I noted and attended to a couple of smudges on the glass, along with three isolated high spots. With Can Coat, you simply wipe the high spot with some additional product, then wipe to level it down, problem sorted.

Final Result -

The transformation on this car was not dramatic, rather a finessed enhancement. While it looks great in the images, the colour tone and subtle metallic of Twilight Blue means this is not a rewarding colour to detail. It just doesn't POP. And I guess that's a Subaru thing, they are practical cars for practical people. Flashy styling and vibrant colours don't really fit that theme.

 

[D.F.B]

Holiday Project 2 – Project Outback Take Two

The follow up to yesterday's job, this 2012 Subaru Outback arrives for a pre-sale detail. I washed this vehicle a few years ago, which was about giving it a refresh, today, I’m preparing it for sale. This Outback also features the 3.6 flat-6 engine and has over 275,000 km (170,000 miles) on the clock. The plan was for a full exterior decontamination, paint enhancement and an interior cleanup.









The headlights were appallingly bad, heavily oxidized and crazed. This model of Subaru seems particularly prone to this.



Exterior Cleaning and Decontamination –

As I did yesterday, the first step was an engine bay clean and dressing.

Wheels were next, tackled with the assistance of NV Purge, Turtle Wax Alphabet Soup Wheel and Tyre cleaner, and treated with Gyeon Wet Coat.



While I'm harsh on the Turtle Wax, this product is supremely capable. With how potent it is, I'm surprised they sell this as a retail product to be honest. I still hate the smell though!

Iron remover, Carpro Lift, Carpro Descale and a clay treatment addressed the decontamination. The door jambs were also sprayed out to remove a build up of dust. I then used the blower and a towel to dry the paint, ready for the next steps.









I had to look this up from last time, but as suspected, I didn't use an iron remover. I doubt this car has ever been treated with such a product, if the car was a lighter colour, it would have made for a stunning photo.



I also want to highlight how magical the feel of a clay towel is in transforming paint from rough to smooth. It's such a tactile thing, you start off feeling the paint resist your efforts, as you work through it, the paint suddenly becomes smooth and slick underneath the towel. You may not feel this on a well-maintained car, but on a vehicle like this, it's a night and day transformation.

Paint Enhancement and Protection –

The first step here was the headlights, I couldn't bear to look at them like that any longer, you can actually see the yellow showing through under all that foamy soap!

As you can see, the headlights on this vehicle are trashed. They were last time too, but an extra three years on the road have taken its toll. These lamps need wet sanding and re-coating, but I didn’t want to go that deep. Instead, I used Sonax Cutmax and the Rupes blue wool on my 3-inch machine, two sets of passes. That's about as far as I can go without the above-mentioned wet sanding.

They are far from perfect, but they look better and more presentable to buyers.







On a car of this age and milage, the potential sale price doesn’t warrant spending hours and hours polishing the paint to perfection. As such, the goal is to add a tonne of gloss and slickness rather than attempting a high-end paint correction, something a potential buyer would unlikely appreciate or notice. For this car, I wanted to try something that has been on my radar for a while.

Rupes UNO Protect is considered an All-In-One product that polishes and protects in one single step. These products have existed for decades, and UNO Protect has been on the market for a while now. There are actually two versions of UNO Protect, the original that offers about 3 months protection, and the newer UNO Advanced with up to 12 months protection. The original contains a synthetic polymer sealant, the latest replacing that with an Si02 protectant. Both have the ability to provide correction (pad dependent) and minor filling abilities. For this project I have decided on the original, which I will explain shortly.

https://www.waxit.com.au/products/r...&_psq=uno&_ss=e&_v=1.0&variant=32113941184601
https://www.waxit.com.au/products/r...&_psq=uno&_ss=e&_v=1.0&variant=40265956753497

Rupes - Uno Protect One Step Polish & Sealant Compound | The Rag Company

RUPES UNO PROTECT is an “all-in-one” compound, polish, and protectant that can remove light defects and leave a high-gloss, protected finish, in just one-step.

theragcompany.com

Rupes - Uno Advanced | The Rag Company

UNO ADVANCED combines an incredible shine and extremely durable protection in one finishing polish. The proprietary formula developed, blended, and packaged completely in-house by RUPES features highly technical micro-abrasive technology fused with state-of-the-art nano protection.

theragcompany.com

UNO Protect can be used on both rotary and dual action machines, and teamed with variety of different pad choices, meaning you can tailor the cutting ability to suit your requirements. Today, I am again using the Rupes yellow wool, which will provide some additional cutting performance while also finishing down nicely.



UNO Protect is used a bit differently than traditional polishes and compounds in that you polish the entire car at once without wiping off the residue as you finish each section. This is to allow the sealant within the compound to set up and cure. By the time you have worked your way around the car, its then time to buff the residue. Important to note that I did all of that with a 5-inch machine, with UNO Protect not staining plastic and rubber trim, you don't need to be as precious with pad sizes and taping. As you can see, I also went over the glass.





And this is where using the original version of UNO Protect comes into the story……………..

Instead of simply wiping the residue, the trick is to use P&S Bead Maker as a wiping aid. For whatever reason, this combination of UNO Protect and Bead Maker works extremely well together, the Bead Maker bonding to the UNO Protect polymers to create an ultra-slick and ultra glossy finish. Working panel by panel, spray a generous amount of Bead Maker over the top of UNO Protect, and then begin wiping. The Bead Maker aids the removal of UNO Protect, but also enhances it in the process.



The above is a proven winner for detailers looking to maximize their efficiency while delivering a marked enhancement to the paint. And so that proved here!

Is the paint perfect. Absolutely not! There paint on this car is trashed, with a mirid of hard water spots, etchings, the beginnings of clear coat failure and full of scratches, some through the clear. Could I have gone harder, perhaps Cutmax on the same wool pad? Absolutely, but at what cost? That clearcoat was thin and I could have very well blown through it in multiple locations and made the situation worse. At least I glossed it up and made it look presentable.

Interior Detailing –

Once again, its all about vacuuming, annoyingly Subaru carpet is one of the worst on the market. Thankfully, the investment I made in vacuum attachments proved valuable today, especially the turbo-head carpet tool.

Following that hour-long ordeal, the interior was wiped down with either P&S Swift or Express, I then used Leather Love teamed with a VLB brush, glass was attended to with P&S True Vue. That might sound simplistic, but with this car not maintained outside of the occasional vac, every little nook and cranny needed attention. That adds up.

Again, no interior shots today, except for leather cleaning and protecting, I hate doing interiors. I wanted it done!

Exterior Finishing Touches –

Thankfully, this model of Outback didn’t have as much black plastic cladding, meaning I had less to revive with Mothers Back to Black.

Once again, Carpro Perl went on the tyres, and the wheel arches were sprayed with P&S Shape Up to freshen them up.

After giving the car a final wipe down with Clean Maker, I went to reattach the ****** bonnet protector. (I used to believe in these stupid things but the longer they are on the car, the more damage they inflict than the occasional rock chip they are apparently there to prevent. The adhesive tape they use to protect the paint during installation ALWAYS breaks down and leaves the attachment clips to wear down the paint. That means you simply can't take them off and leave them off, unless you want to look at rusty bare patches on your bonnet.) With how degraded the bonnet protector looked against the shiny paint, I whipped out the Perfect Finish on the Nano and gave it a very quick polish. Again, not a concourse restoration, but at least it didn't stick out so much.

Final Result -





A final inspection of the engine bay revealed the intake manifold breather hose was not connected! I was actually concerned that I had dislodged it while cleaning, but I zoomed in on the before shot and it was missing then too. Clearly this didn't prevent the car from running, but I pushed it back in place nonetheless. Very odd. I also note this car is missing the engine cover too.





A roadworthy and the car will be sale shortly.

I can say that my actual holidays can start now! Although I'm buggered from the last two days. I had plans to start ceramic coating and installing the new wheels on the Ranger, but I think I'll delay that till next week. Or maybe not............................

I also REALLY want to drive my cars! All have been hiding under covers and for far too long.

 

[littlebean]

I don't know why, given that I HATE cleaning cars, but I always find your posts interesting and they (almost...) make me want to clean something
as always informative, especially the reasoning behind why you'd selected each product, and the finish, to my eyes at least, looks amazing

 

[D.F.B]

No energy today, even the run into town was an exercise in frustration.

The day before a public holiday everyone seems to be in a rush to get everywhere. Well, apart from the ***** in a Tarago who decided to stop in the middle of town with one wheel in a park...........for no reason whatsoever, they just blocked the flow of traffic, then pulled back out and did the same thing two parks ahead.

I then went to Officeworks to get some overpriced ink stored in a black plastic case, you know, printer ink. Big mistake, the place was packed with desperate parents stocking up for the back to school rush next week. And another display of people's inability to move into and out of a parking spot.

I then spent 5 minutes trying to get onto the street that my bank is on. I know that is nothing compared to what people living in cities have to deal with, but in the country, NOT ACCEPTABLE! In a stroke of luck, I got a park right in front of the bank...........then stood waiting while George tried to remember his banking passwords, and Hooty-McBoob withdrew $100 in $5 notes.

The last stop was to the toy store tool store to spend some Christmas Gift Vouchers. I wanted to treat myself to the Milwaukee M18 Surge Impact Driver, but they had none on the shelf. In fact, they only had 2 of any sort available. How is that a thing? Small country town problems. Anyway, I settled on a M18 Inflator Skin instead..............

https://www.totaltools.com.au/187665-milwaukee-18v-inflator-skin-m18bi0



Milwaukee make both M12 and M18 inflators, but I went with the bigger unit. What pleases me most is how nicely its designed, with three additional inflator attachments, including a Presta bike adaptor. The hose also winds up on the back of the unit, with the valve snicking into place to keep it neat.

Once attached to the tyre valve, the unit reads the current pressure, you then select the desired pressure and press the inflate button. The only drawback is how noisy it is when in operation.









I like how portable and convenient this will be compared to firing up the compressor, winding out the hose and navigating it around the garage, then putting it all away again. This inflator solves all of that, just take it out of the cabinet, attach a battery, hook it up to the tyre and your off.

 

[ajohno]

Far out I really enjoyed your thread. I am also a FORD fan. I have a white F6 2009 model. Not a daily driver. Has about 45000 km on it now.

 

[D.F.B]

Far out I really enjoyed your thread. I am also a FORD fan. I have a white F6 2009 model. Not a daily driver. Has about 45000 km on it now.

They were a weapon, then and now! What colour?

 

[ajohno]

They were a weapon, then and now! What colour?

White. I also had the FG XR6 Turbo the same blue as yours. I really wished I kept that car as well.

 

[D.F.B]

White. I also had the FG XR6 Turbo the same blue as yours. I really wished I kept that car as well.

Was actually behind a Winter White F6 sedan yesterday, looked so tough!

 

[D.F.B]

Holiday Project 3 – Ranger Wheel Coating and Fitment

I feel like this project has simmering for ages now, so it’s great to finally get stuck into the final pieces of the puzzle.

To recap, these wheels were bought second hand and have since been decontaminated, polished and touched up where required. I sourced the missing center cap along with 24 new solid lug nuts. The tyres were then fitted, directly followed by de-nibbing and a clean with Tarminator to remove any manufacturing oils and fitment soap.

They wheels have sat waiting for the ceramic coating to arrive and after two impromptu full details, I have finally found some time to get this job sorted.

Ceramic Coating –

Having been impressed with the Armour Detail Supply Wheel Coating that I applied to the XR6 last year, the choice of coating for the Ranger was simple. This coating offers the ideal blend of durability with the slickness and water behavior missing from most wheel coatings.

Wheel Coating

Armour Wheel Quartz Coating is a high-performance solution designed to protect and enhance the appearance of your wheels. A formula that's specifically engineered to resist heat and heavy abuse, this coating provides superior protection against brake dust and buildup. The coating's advanced...

armourdetailsupply.com

The wheels have sat in the garage since the tyres were fitted. The first step was to give them a quick once over with Carpro Eraser, followed by a final wipe down with Rupes Reveal Strong.





For the coating, I prefer to start with the wheel face first, followed by the barrels. You are more likely to have residual product transferring from the wheel face to the barrel, so doing the barrels last prevents that becoming a high spot. Having said that, a high spot on a dull wheel barrel is very unlikely to ever be seen.

Application is simple, prime the supplied microfiber applicator with three lines of product, then a single line thereafter. Work the coating across the wheel face or barrel, making sure to get even coverage. This coating is a "sweater", which will start to appear after about 2 - 3 minutes and is your cue to start leveling with the first towel. You then follow with a secondary towel to ensure the removal any lingering residue. The initial wipes will be quite grabby, which is due to the high solids content of this coating, but the secondary wipe will transform to a slick finish. I have also found that the coating becomes slicker after a few hours.

With how this coating hardens, you really need two applicators between four wheels, especially if you are dealing with larger wheels than these tiny 16's.

Once the wheels had been coated, it was then time for fitment.

Wheel Fitment and Wheel Arch Cleaning –

Starting at the front left, I removed the two-piece lugs and the old steel wheel.



Completely unnecessary on a car like this, but I decided to give the front arches some attention. In this case, Green Star APC, a bucket of ONR at 256:1 and a selection of brushes. I actually thought the calipers would have been worse considering they have NEVER been cleaned, but they cleaned up brilliantly with some NV Purge. I then flushed everything with ONR and water.







The new wheels were then offered up and lightly secured with the new solid lug nuts. The old chrome jacket items were starting to show some wear and with their high failure rate, replacement seemed like cheap insurance. Torque figure on Ranger lugs is 135 Nm. (I love that Wera torque wrench by the way!)





Save for wiping the face of the drum barrel, the rear arches were not cleaned.

Final step, and my favorite, the application of a tyre dressing. Today, I decided on OG Tire Dressing with the assistance of a large boars hair brush. For some reason, commercial tyres seem to amplify a dressing, so I actually knocked them back with a towel after 20 min.





A quick look at the old tyres after removal justified my choice to buy some new ones.................



With just on 39,000 km (24,000 miles) on the clock since new, while they still have tread, those tyres are now 8 years old and don't look crash hot. With the coating needing to cure for 12-hours before being driven, I'm still to see how the new tyres perform. I will say though, I can't fault the OE fit Dunlop's, they have done their job as a daily driver, hauling tools and garden supplies, taken me across the country...............and played along as I indulged in some wet weather car control practice.

Finished Result -

Having had this car for nearly 8 years now, seeing it without those 16-inch steelies is strange................













And with that, my Povo Ute just got a little less povo!

 

[ajohno]

Looks great. I like white always looks clean.

 

[Donnie O]

Have a good weekend dfb! Be safe!

 

[D.F.B]

This image is telling, it means I actually got to drive them. The Mustang got out and made some noise yesterday afternoon, the XR8 was today's joy ride. It's been too long since I drove these, I've been so busy with work and other projects that I just didn't have the energy or will to get them out. The temps over the last two days have been in the mid 20's, perfect weather for me and the XR8, I forget how ****** effortlessly fast that car is.....................



And a Ute doing Ute things.........................although it needed a jump start after a lot of stop-start-stop moving around yesterday and today. The battery is the original from 2016, so it's on its last legs.



Initial impression on those new tyres? While I have kept the original 215/70 R16 sizing, they are fitted to wider 7.0-inch rather than 6.5-inch wheels. It's still a firm riding commercial vehicle, but it seems to have a more planted feel, less road noise and slightly cushier feel to it. Looking forward to getting some extra miles on them and see how they settle.

 

[6SpeedBowtie]

Just ran across this thread and read it straight though. Love what you’re doing here, and thoroughly appreciate the detailing skills on display. I’m aspiring to kit a new garage in a home we recently bought and plan to be in for some time. My first order of business is an OG wall mount pressure washer solution.

Plenty of inspiration on display in this thread. I will be watching….

 

[D.F.B]

The joy this image represents is unmeasurable..................



Nothing special here, just a maintenance clean using Koch Chemie GSF. I also spent some time messing about with the number plate protectors. Actually, this car has never had them in its near 16-year life. The plates on this car are the blue and white Victorian slimline items with a blue outline around outside edge. Having a plate covers on hides that blue outline with a black boarder, which has the effect of making the plate appear more integrated and a cleaner overall look. Wish I did this long ago. Meanwhile, it's about time the whole number plate thing was phased out in Australia, it's not 1979 anymore. At the very least, get rid of the front plate as it almost always ruins the front-end design, Mustang's in particular.

Also, a couple of observations regarding the new brakes on this car. These things are just so much smoother feeling under foot, and overall, more capable in all driving conditions. The front Project Mu pads do produce more brake dust than the Ford OE pads, but with the wheels coated, that simply washes off with water.

I also had a problem with the A/C on this car today, the air from the vents was warm and the compressor not cycling. This has happened a few times in the past, always linked back to low battery voltage. That is a common situation with FG Falcon's, which shed battery draw by shutting down non-essential systems to save power, the AC being one of them. Having said that, the car was starting just fine. I had planned on swapping this car back into storage but aborted that and instead plugged it up to the CTEK, hopefully that's all it is. Otherwise, its probably time for a new battery, it would easily be over 10 years old now.

 

[D.F.B]

Just ran across this thread and read it straight though. Love what you’re doing here, and thoroughly appreciate the detailing skills on display. I’m aspiring to kit a new garage in a home we recently bought and plan to be in for some time. My first order of business is an OG wall mount pressure washer solution.

Plenty of inspiration on display in this thread. I will be watching….

Glad you have found the thread useful.

A wall mounted pressure washer set for car washing is simply one of the best moves I have made in the garage. The main benefit is having it all setup and ready to go, no wheeling out the machine, hooking up the power and water, untangling the hose, and then packing it all up at the end. Simply switch on the power and water, unwind the hose from the reel and you are good to go. Wind up the hose when you're done.

The great thing about the OG wall mount packages is you can scale it up or down depending on your budget. Can't justify the extra spend on the Kranzle or AR machines, then select the Active or Karcher to get your started. If at a later date you want to upgrade or simply need to replace the Active or Karcher when its worn out, everything is transferrable to a new machine. So while you may baulk at spending more on the combined hose/reel/gun/want/shelf/fittings than the actual pressure washer itself, all of it is transferrable and will last you for a very long time. They also sell accessory packages to compliment an existing pressure washer.

Custom Installs

A custom install is a tailored, wall-mounted setup designed to keep your tools and gear organized, accessible, and out of the way. It requires planning and some installation work but delivers a clean, professional, and efficient workspace built specifically for your garage.

www.obsessedgarage.com

Obsessed Garage Wall Mount Pressure Washing Accessory Packages

Having your pressure washer set up in a fixed position is super convenient. With our Wall Mount Accessory Packages, you will no longer have to drag and wheel things around. You'll be getting a hand crank hose reel for your pressure washing hose, along with upgraded accessories. Everything is...

www.obsessedgarage.com

A couple of things to consider -

- Test your water for hardness. If it's under 100 ppm, then you could probably skip the CR-Spotless deionizer. You can buy a simple water hardness tester of Amazon. In my case, I'm extremely lucky to have relatively soft water, about 90 ppm, so I haven't bothered with a deionizer.

https://www.amazon.com/Dumsamker-Professional-Temperature-0-9999ppm-Aquariums/dp/B07H578WWT/?tag=atomicindus08-20

- OG tend to offer three tiers to their packages. I will say that at any level, you are getting a vast improvement on the standard OE pressure washer hose, gun, nozzles and guns.

- I have the top tier Mosmatic stuff, but the MTM and mid-spec Mosmatic gear are great too. I would however definitely go for the OG-spec Mosmatic wand with the Mosmatic rubber shrouded nozzles, this is noticeably superior in ergonomics and function over the original items. I would also have both 40-degree and 25-degree (for wheels) nozzles.

OG Spec Mosmatic Wand for Pressure Washing - High-Quality Rinsing Tool

OG's Spec Mosmatic Wand, exclusively available at Obsessed Garage. Designed in collaboration with Jaimie from Mosmatic, this wand features Swiss-made quick disconnects and comes in 20”, 40”, and 60” lengths, ideal for thorough rinsing of vehicles, RVs, and more.

www.obsessedgarage.com

OG Spec Mosmatic Nozzle Assembly for Pressure Washers - Premium Quality & Customization Options

OG's Spec Mosmatic Nozzle Assembly, a precision-engineered accessory exclusively for Obsessed Garage. Made in Switzerland from T304 stainless steel, this nozzle features a rubber guard for paint protection and is available in 25 and 40-degree angles.

www.obsessedgarage.com

Mosmatic on the top, MTM on the bottom. Note how the Mosmatic fully shrouds the nozzle to protect against accidental contact with the car, the MTM doesn't -



- For most people, they tend to prefer the progressive trigger of the MTM gun, but I like the OG-spec Mosmatic because of how they integrated the gun swivel into the body of the assembly to save bulk. The Mosmatic does have a more switch-like trigger though.

OG Spec Mosmatic Swiveling Sprayer with T304 Stainless Fittings for Ultimate Pressure Washing Performance

OG's Spec Mosmatic Swiveling Sprayer, exclusively available at Obsessed Garage. This premium sprayer features T304 stainless steel fittings, a low trigger force mechanism, and an integrated swivel for enhanced usability.

www.obsessedgarage.com

MTM SGS-28 Swiveling Sprayer - High-Quality Pressure Washer Accessory

OG's MTM SGS-28 Swiveling Sprayer, a durable, all-stainless steel sprayer with a smooth trigger and compact size, perfect for both beginners and professionals. Suited for up to 4060 PSI and 320°F, this sprayer offers exceptional performance.

www.obsessedgarage.com

- For machines, you want the highest flow rate you can afford, not pressure. In each of the packages they sell, the pressure is dialed to around 1000 to 1500 psi via the nozzle orifice. This helps turn down some of the peak pressure, instead prioritising flow rate.

- Of the two Kranzle's machines they offer, for the US market you definitely want the K1322 and NOT the K1622. The AR630 offers the most flow rate but the Kranzle is the nicer sounding machine. Both require a 20-amp circuit though.

- Of the budget offerings, I would favor the Active 2.0 as it has nearly the same flow rate performance of the Kranzle. It won't last as long or sound as refined, it has the usual cheap pressure washer screeching noises, but for the price it punches well above its weight. I would skip the older Active VE56, but the Karcher Cube is worth looking at too, although the least powerful of all of the above.

More than happy to answer any questions about this, it can take a bit to get your head around.

 

[D.F.B]

I also had a problem with the A/C on this car today, the air from the vents was warm and the compressor not cycling. This has happened a few times in the past, always linked back to low battery voltage. That is a common situation with FG Falcon's, which shed battery draw by shutting down non-essential systems to save power, the AC being one of them. Having said that, the car was starting just fine. I had planned on swapping this car back into storage but aborted that and instead plugged it up to the CTEK, hopefully that's all it is. Otherwise, its probably time for a new battery, it would easily be over 10 years old now.

Five hours on the CTEK and its back!

 

[Geoff289]

I also had a problem with the A/C on this car today, the air from the vents was warm and the compressor not cycling. This has happened a few times in the past, always linked back to low battery voltage. That is a common situation with FG Falcon's, which shed battery draw by shutting down non-essential systems to save power, the AC being one of them. Having said that, the car was starting just fine. I had planned on swapping this car back into storage but aborted that and instead plugged it up to the CTEK, hopefully that's all it is. Otherwise, its probably time for a new battery, it would easily be over 10 years old now.

I had exactly that aircon problem with the FG G6E I had. Another common issue with them, which I also had after the warranty expired of course, is the air distribution mechanism which failed and wouldn't direct the air where you'd selected it to go. They developed an improved mechanism to address this. After a bit of grumbling Ford provided the new parts gratis but I was up for the labour.

 

[D.F.B]

I had exactly that aircon problem with the FG G6E I had. Another common issue with them, which I also had after the warranty expired of course, is the air distribution mechanism which failed and wouldn't direct the air where you'd selected it to go. They developed an improved mechanism to address this. After a bit of grumbling Ford provided the new parts gratis but I was up for the labour.

Can I ask what year was your G6E? The earlier FG's seemed to be very touchy to battery voltage.

Mine is a very early build FG, May 2008, so mine has had all the little buggy things that appear on a first of new model vehicle. Warped glovebox, the timing cover needed to be reseated early on, the fading screen on extremely hot days. My AC wasn't properly gassed from the factory and needed attention at the 3000 km inspection.

A lot of that stuff was addressed over the model run. I don't tend to hear about AC problems on the 2010 onward models, apparently they upped the gas quantity after complaints of poor AC performance.

 

[Sumboodie]

The joy this image represents is unmeasurable..................

Wheel with ice on it?

 

[Geoff289]

Can I ask what year was your G6E? The earlier FG's seemed to be very touchy to battery voltage.

Mine is a very early build FG, May 2008, so mine has had all the little buggy things that appear on a first of new model vehicle. Warped glovebox, the timing cover needed to be reseated early on, the fading screen on extremely hot days. My AC wasn't properly gassed from the factory and needed attention at the 3000 km inspection.

A lot of that stuff was addressed over the model run. I don't tend to hear about AC problems on the 2010 onward models, apparently they upped the gas quantity after complaints of poor AC performance.

My G6E was built in January 2009. I got it in Feb as a leased car as part of my salary package and bought it from the leasing company for relative peanuts in June 2010 when I retired.

 

[Tactile]

Ahhhh Shepparton, my old home town! Floods, storms and drug dealers...looks like nothing's changed much!

In your first few posts I saw the Kranzle and the Swisstrax - I thought this guy has gone full Uncle Matty! Then I saw the OG products and that you are obviously a fan, as am I. Don't have the the space (none actually) for detailing but like his outlook and his current fumbling into the tool world. - it's good to watch...like his German cars.

Used to have a AU XR6 Ute and a BF Fairmont.

Great thread, great work!

 

[D.F.B]

Ahhhh Shepparton, my old home town! Floods, storms and drug dealers...looks like nothing's changed much!

In your first few posts I saw the Kranzle and the Swisstrax - I thought this guy has gone full Uncle Matty! Then I saw the OG products and that you are obviously a fan, as am I. Don't have the the space (none actually) for detailing but like his outlook and his current fumbling into the tool world. - it's good to watch...like his German cars.

Used to have a AU XR6 Ute and a BF Fairmont.

Great thread, great work!

Ha ha! I'm guess in you noticed the logo on the bins in the reflection?

And you are not wrong! The town flooded in late 2022 and was on the brink of the same two weeks ago, thankfully no homes were lost this time. My boss's 90-year-old parents lost their home, water waste high all through the place. Took them nearly 9-months to return and were very lucky to be insured. After the floods, I suspect there are many without home insurance due to the massive rise in cost to do so, even car insurance jumped by more than a hundred dollars despite my surrounding streets residence not flooding.









This was shot by one of my father's mates in Nagambie, where Dad has a river side holiday cabin in the caravan park. He still hasn't finished the repairs, but by some miracle, was actually insured.

I think it's telling that the biggest and grandest building in town is the courthouse! I work in there every two weeks looking after the plants, some of things I see and hear in there is shocking. Makes me realise how bad the general health of the town is. That's a shame because there are some wonderful things to see and do in town, but the reputation as a drug dealers paradise deters many from visiting, or even continuing to live.

For the record, I have lived here my whole life (37 years), How long ago did you leave?

As for OG and Matt Moreman, I know he is not everyone's cup of tea, but I do admire what he has achieved and the products that he champions. I also know what a struggle it is to be "normal", where even the simplest decisions end up being a two-day thought process. I wear my OG hat and T-shirt around town wondering if anyone would notice the reference, haven't met a single follower in person yet. I was actually very late to his videos, but it became very apparent that we share some common character traits. In fact, until I heard him discuss these things, I began to understand some aspects of my life that I had never got a grasp on. So, while I turned up for the detailing and garage content, I left with a better understanding of my own mind personality traits.

Also, I'm not sure how many in Australia are as nuts as me to order and pay the shipping on OG products. Certainly not a cheap exercise, but one I justify.

 

[Tactile]

Last time I lived in the area was 2014/15. Went to Brisbane for a year or two and then came back to Melbourne. I had quite a bit of time away from there over the years with stints in Cairns and Adelaide as well. I guess I have been trying to escape my whole life!

I have been back a bit in the last few years helping out on the family farm while my brother recovers from a hip replacement and I have enjoyed it...especially since I have done nothing on the farm for over 30 years (I'm 54). A lot of my friends from the days I grew up there have moved away, are alcoholics/drug addicts or are dead!

I actually had my Kranzle waaaaay before Matt got into them! When I left for Brisbane I gave it to my Father in law who promptly wrecked it as with everything else I left him (trailer, chain saw sharpener, Mitsubishi tiller).

I will keep an eye out for your OG merch or the retina-searing glare from one of your vehicles when I'm up there from now on!

 

[D.F.B]

Last time I lived in the area was 2014/15. Went to Brisbane for a year or two and then came back to Melbourne. I had quite a bit of time away from there over the years with stints in Cairns and Adelaide as well. I guess I have been trying to escape my whole life!

I have been back a bit in the last few years helping out on the family farm while my brother recovers from a hip replacement and I have enjoyed it...especially since I have done nothing on the farm for over 30 years (I'm 54). A lot of my friends from the days I grew up there have moved away, are alcoholics/drug addicts or are dead!

I actually had my Kranzle waaaaay before Matt got into them! When I left for Brisbane I gave it to my Father in law who promptly wrecked it as with everything else I left him (trailer, chain saw sharpener, Mitsubishi tiller).

I will keep an eye out for your OG merch or the retina-searing glare from one of your vehicles when I'm up there from now on!

I work at the large nursery on the way into town at Emeral Bank, drop in and say hello if you like, I'm there Wed through Sat every week.

 

[Tactile]

I work at the large nursery on the way into town at Emeral Bank, drop in and say hello if you like, I'm there Wed through Sat every week.

Will do...have to go through that museum there at some stage again too...haven't been through it in years

 

[D.F.B]

Will do...have to go through that museum there at some stage again too...haven't been through it in years

Have you been through since it was rebuilt and expanded? It's massive now and would give any car museum a run for its money.

 

[Tactile]

Have you been through since it was rebuilt and expanded? It's massive now and would give any car museum a run for its money.

It would have to be over 10 years since Ive been through it. My brother is a member I think. There is some very nice and rare stuff in the Shepparton area, some of it gets shown in there, a lot of it doesn't. I'm into the motorcycle world and there is one-off, factory stuff that is priceless in the GV region.

 

[D.F.B]

It would have to be over 10 years since Ive been through it. My brother is a member I think. There is some very nice and rare stuff in the Shepparton area, some of it gets shown in there, a lot of it doesn't. I'm into the motorcycle world and there is one-off, factory stuff that is priceless in the GV region.

There are a LOT of cars hidden in sheds around here, mine included.

The museum was rebuilt and expanded in recent years, reopening in about 2021 and rebranded MOVE, Museum of Vehicle Evolution. It has four sections now, one for cars and general automotive memorabilia, an expanded Furphy foundry collection, a vintage clothing section and the huge trucking section. The tuck addition was to reflect the area's history in heavy transport, especially the fruit production sector. They also have a huge undercover area for markets, car meets and special functions.

Home | Museum of Vehicle Evolution

Located in Shepparton, Victoria, MOVE is one of the largest regional museums of collectibles in Australia for its variety.

www.moveshepparton.com.au

 

[ajohno]

I also watch Matt. He use to be on this forum as well.

Also check out RAD ricks Audi double. He also has great content. Also a member on here.

 

[cccoltsicehockey]

Love all the updates. The new wheels on the truck really do update the look. Amazing that something so simple does that.

I also watch Matt. He use to be on this forum as well.

Also check out RAD ricks Audi double. He also has great content. Also a member on here.

This forum is actually how I first learned about him.

 

[Tactile]

He's a big crowd-sourcer...he would still be lurking, especially now that he's getting into hand tools more.

 

[6SpeedBowtie]

Glad you have found the thread useful.

A wall mounted pressure washer set for car washing is simply one of the best moves I have made in the garage. The main benefit is having it all setup and ready to go, no wheeling out the machine, hooking up the power and water, untangling the hose, and then packing it all up at the end. Simply switch on the power and water, unwind the hose from the reel and you are good to go. Wind up the hose when you're done.

The great thing about the OG wall mount packages is you can scale it up or down depending on your budget. Can't justify the extra spend on the Kranzle or AR machines, then select the Active or Karcher to get your started. If at a later date you want to upgrade or simply need to replace the Active or Karcher when its worn out, everything is transferrable to a new machine. So while you may baulk at spending more on the combined hose/reel/gun/want/shelf/fittings than the actual pressure washer itself, all of it is transferrable and will last you for a very long time. They also sell accessory packages to compliment an existing pressure washer.

Custom Installs

A custom install is a tailored, wall-mounted setup designed to keep your tools and gear organized, accessible, and out of the way. It requires planning and some installation work but delivers a clean, professional, and efficient workspace built specifically for your garage.

www.obsessedgarage.com

Obsessed Garage Wall Mount Pressure Washing Accessory Packages

Having your pressure washer set up in a fixed position is super convenient. With our Wall Mount Accessory Packages, you will no longer have to drag and wheel things around. You'll be getting a hand crank hose reel for your pressure washing hose, along with upgraded accessories. Everything is...

www.obsessedgarage.com

A couple of things to consider -

- Test your water for hardness. If it's under 100 ppm, then you could probably skip the CR-Spotless deionizer. You can buy a simple water hardness tester of Amazon. In my case, I'm extremely lucky to have relatively soft water, about 90 ppm, so I haven't bothered with a deionizer.

https://www.amazon.com/Dumsamker-Professional-Temperature-0-9999ppm-Aquariums/dp/B07H578WWT/?tag=atomicindus08-20

- OG tend to offer three tiers to their packages. I will say that at any level, you are getting a vast improvement on the standard OE pressure washer hose, gun, nozzles and guns.

- I have the top tier Mosmatic stuff, but the MTM and mid-spec Mosmatic gear are great too. I would however definitely go for the OG-spec Mosmatic wand with the Mosmatic rubber shrouded nozzles, this is noticeably superior in ergonomics and function over the original items. I would also have both 40-degree and 25-degree (for wheels) nozzles.

OG Spec Mosmatic Wand for Pressure Washing - High-Quality Rinsing Tool

OG's Spec Mosmatic Wand, exclusively available at Obsessed Garage. Designed in collaboration with Jaimie from Mosmatic, this wand features Swiss-made quick disconnects and comes in 20”, 40”, and 60” lengths, ideal for thorough rinsing of vehicles, RVs, and more.

www.obsessedgarage.com

OG Spec Mosmatic Nozzle Assembly for Pressure Washers - Premium Quality & Customization Options

OG's Spec Mosmatic Nozzle Assembly, a precision-engineered accessory exclusively for Obsessed Garage. Made in Switzerland from T304 stainless steel, this nozzle features a rubber guard for paint protection and is available in 25 and 40-degree angles.

www.obsessedgarage.com

Mosmatic on the top, MTM on the bottom. Note how the Mosmatic fully shrouds the nozzle to protect against accidental contact with the car, the MTM doesn't -



- For most people, they tend to prefer the progressive trigger of the MTM gun, but I like the OG-spec Mosmatic because of how they integrated the gun swivel into the body of the assembly to save bulk. The Mosmatic does have a more switch-like trigger though.

OG Spec Mosmatic Swiveling Sprayer with T304 Stainless Fittings for Ultimate Pressure Washing Performance

OG's Spec Mosmatic Swiveling Sprayer, exclusively available at Obsessed Garage. This premium sprayer features T304 stainless steel fittings, a low trigger force mechanism, and an integrated swivel for enhanced usability.

www.obsessedgarage.com

MTM SGS-28 Swiveling Sprayer - High-Quality Pressure Washer Accessory

OG's MTM SGS-28 Swiveling Sprayer, a durable, all-stainless steel sprayer with a smooth trigger and compact size, perfect for both beginners and professionals. Suited for up to 4060 PSI and 320°F, this sprayer offers exceptional performance.

www.obsessedgarage.com

- For machines, you want the highest flow rate you can afford, not pressure. In each of the packages they sell, the pressure is dialed to around 1000 to 1500 psi via the nozzle orifice. This helps turn down some of the peak pressure, instead prioritising flow rate.

- Of the two Kranzle's machines they offer, for the US market you definitely want the K1322 and NOT the K1622. The AR630 offers the most flow rate but the Kranzle is the nicer sounding machine. Both require a 20-amp circuit though.

- Of the budget offerings, I would favor the Active 2.0 as it has nearly the same flow rate performance of the Kranzle. It won't last as long or sound as refined, it has the usual cheap pressure washer screeching noises, but for the price it punches well above its weight. I would skip the older Active VE56, but the Karcher Cube is worth looking at too, although the least powerful of all of the above.

More than happy to answer any questions about this, it can take a bit to get your head around.

Yet another outstanding post!!

During the Black Friday sale, I ordered a pressure washer wall mount solution!

My wife constantly accuses me of researching purchases to death searching for the best of whatever it is I want, and then finding myself in over my head more often than not. A great example would be when I decided I wanted a DSLR — I went from a $100 point-and-shoot to a Nikon D300 with very little actual knowledge about how to use a real camera. I was definitely in over my head, lol! I ended up selling it and moving to a more entry-level model. That was the point we instituted the “find what you want, then take a step down” rule.

So, in recent years, I knew I wanted the wall solution pressure washer. I had been eying the Kranzle 1322TS version with the ultimate kit. I went back and forth on just how far I really needed to go with it - and decided it was time to go ahead and move on it. I opted for the Active 2.0 with the Ultimate kit. I figured I could always upgrade the pressure washer at some point if I found that I was using it as often as I “think” I will. I didn’t opt for the CR Spotless portion - again, thinking I can add it later if I find it’s needed.

After a VERY busy holiday season and January, I’m finally able to start installing the setup. I have things roughed in, but will want to do drywall repair and add a coat of paint before wrapping it up and starting to use it. I think it’s time I put together a thread of my garage journey.

 

[D.F.B]

Yet another outstanding post!!

During the Black Friday sale, I ordered a pressure washer wall mount solution!

My wife constantly accuses me of researching purchases to death searching for the best of whatever it is I want, and then finding myself in over my head more often than not. A great example would be when I decided I wanted a DSLR — I went from a $100 point-and-shoot to a Nikon D300 with very little actual knowledge about how to use a real camera. I was definitely in over my head, lol! I ended up selling it and moving to a more entry-level model. That was the point we instituted the “find what you want, then take a step down” rule.

So, in recent years, I knew I wanted the wall solution pressure washer. I had been eying the Kranzle 1322TS version with the ultimate kit. I went back and forth on just how far I really needed to go with it - and decided it was time to go ahead and move on it. I opted for the Active 2.0 with the Ultimate kit. I figured I could always upgrade the pressure washer at some point if I found that I was using it as often as I “think” I will. I didn’t opt for the CR Spotless portion - again, thinking I can add it later if I find it’s needed.

After a VERY busy holiday season and January, I’m finally able to start installing the setup. I have things roughed in, but will want to do drywall repair and add a coat of paint before wrapping it up and starting to use it. I think it’s time I put together a thread of my garage journey.

I couldn't begin to tally the amount of hours I have spent on any given subject researching and procrastinating. It's all consuming.

Check out post 25 on the first page for my setup, although I was bolting to concrete walls instead of drywall. So long as you have it blocked out, drywall and timber is far easier to deal with than concrete.

 

[D.F.B]

The Jaaaaaag's turn today!

The tyres were scrubbed with P&S Undressed, Wheels and paint cleaned with the delightful Shine Supply Shift.

Post wash drying via the new EGO stubby attachment...............

TradeTools

www.tradetools.com

While the aftermarket has mostly catered to this need with various 3D printed options, this is EGO acknowledging that a market exists for their blowers being used for car detailing. Compared to the 3D printed option which I have been using, the EGO unit has an integrated rubber tip and quick release lever to easily remove it from the blower. The 3D printed- versions were basically locked onto the blower and needed a special touch to remove. Even though its not needed, I fitted the green silicone blower band to mine, it just looks better that way!

Drying Aid was via Obsessed Garage, which works really well with Gyeon Pure EVO. Invisible Glass took care of the interior and exterior glass, the rest of the interior treated to a new product...................

Ethos Interior Detailer 473ml/3.8L

Ethos Interior Detailer lightly cleans and protects interior finishes in one easy step. This non-greasy, streak free formula provides UV-Protection and helps neutralise unwanted odours. There is no better or easier way to maintain a clean, crisp interior!

autobuff.com.au

Two things I immediately liked about this all-in-one interior detailer, the coconut scent and the natural/OEM finish it leaves behind. Considering the mild consistency of the product and its UV inhibitors, I expected this to be smeary on gloss trims and screens, but that didn't play out. So not only does it finish down so well, it can be used across multiple surfaces without issue. Win-Win.

Finally, the tyres were dressed using the brilliant Adam's Graphene. What stands out today was using the new Maxshine Curved Grip XL brush. There are two versions of this brush, both with interchangeable heads, one being the soft synthetic, and this mixed bristle version. Having used and been impressed with the synthetic version, it's best used on 40 and higher profile tyres. This mixed bristle version is better can accommodate lower profile sidewalls like the Jaguar's......................

MaxShine Curved Grip XL Detailing Brush – Mixed Bristle Red

Product Introduction Sizable bristle heads for cleaning large areas Ergonomic, full grip handle to keep your hand cramp-free Mixed boar’s hair and PET bristles for optimal cleaning Chemical resistant and rubberized handle material Included drying/storage rack for optimum organization and care...

detailingshed.com.au

Synthetic version.................



Mixed version...................







I can safely say this is one of THE BEST ways to apply tyre dressing. In fact, that statement applies to both of these brushes. In both cases, because of the density of bristles, the dressing is easily distributed across the sidewall and into all the groves, but those bristles also mean a follow up knock-down wipe is simply not required.

For the most part, I have been using brushes rather than foam applicators for tyre dressings for a while now, it negates the need to wear gloves and is overall less messy. The only drawback with the two brushes above is the $27 AUD price compared to a $3.00 foam applicator. However, as many would know, foam starts to get pretty grotty in short order, these brushes will be far more durable and can actually be washed out if desired.

And finally, some more seat time in the XR8........................